Upgraded my speakers to https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZHJ683/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 mounted in 914 Rubber's pods. Massive upgrade in sound...but would still like a little more low-end "punch". I'm going to install a https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085G2C2WH/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_4?smid=A3CUCPHY91XE4Q&psc=1 subwoofer inside the console cavity (no holes in console, it just sits inside there!) and need to run a power wire.
What is the "easiest" way to get this through the car? Sorry if this is a silly question but I haven't messed with any electrical stuff yet and can't see how the current wires from the battery enter the vehicle. Seems like they come in behind the seats so maybe there's some kind of "sealed" pass-thru through the firewall? My lift is not in yet so I have somewhat limited access to the bottom of the car and would rather not take the seats out if I don't have to!
Thanks! - Rick
There's a rubber snorkel that the OEM wiring runs through the tunnel and is routed up through the panel in front if the motor into the engine compartment.
It isn't an easy task to introduce additional wires through the snorkel, especially large-gauge high-current carrying conductors ... http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=321374 ... http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=311273
You may need to drill an additional hole and install a rubber grommet in the firewall to get from the battery location into the tunnel and up to the console area, or wherever you plan to mount the power amp/sub woofer.
That's what I did when running a 2-conductor 10AWG siamese power cable for a two-way radio that I installed in my '75.
With the engine out I was able to pull an 8 gauge wire through the harness snorkel surprisingly easy by fishing a wire through first and then pulling the cable. I put off the job for months thinking it was going to be a giant PITA, but it took less than 20 minutes to get the job done. Having the engine out lets you pull the harness down so the snorkel is somewhat straight to make fishing and pulling doable.
Hey Kevin - Thanks for the response...but how do you "run it off the fuse box"? Just tap it into one of the empty circuits? (I think I have a couple).
If you'd rather PM me, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
Be sure to include an appropriately sized fuse at the battery end. Without it, if the insulation ever rubbed through or got cut you may have some unscheduled welding going on in your car.
Shown is the fuse for the power wire to the power amps in my van.
Add a Pi filter just before the sub to eliminate alternator noise.
Keep everything out of the cabin that you can. Leave the stock wiring system alone. It is not designed to add a high amp draw. Extra lights, amps whatever. Straight from the battery to a fuse block, to a relay. Low voltage switch leg goes inside for lights. Keep the electrical fires outside.
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