Need help to interpret results of continuity test results (see attached) and explain what to do next to get my car running right.
Porsche 914 2.0L 1974 (I believe was originally a 1.7L)
My car starts, runs and drives but idles rough and wont rev past 4,000rpm. It hesitates on acceleration. I have changed virtually all components / parts from rebuilt MPS, tested TPS and works, ignition switch, fuel pump, air & cylinder head temp sensor, swapped out ECU to one that was tested to work, and the list goes on.
I am posting my continuity test results with the hope that some may have experienced or had the same results and knows what to look into more deeply or can diagnose.
The test results concluded the following:
1. When testing the ECU power source from main power relay I could not get the 1V voltage difference from the voltage measured at the battery terminal. No difference and remained the same. Voltage at the battery was 12.79 throughout
2. when testing the voltage at start signal from ignition switch the voltage dropped to 9.7V and was not greater than 12V. However, should be greater than 12V.
So, can anyone help, please. I haven't been able to get the car run and drive right since being restored and have run out of options.
Regards
Michael
Attached thumbnail(s)
I put a new solid state regulator in mine recently and that fixed low voltage issues I was having. Cheap and easy. Doubt it is the issue though.
What do your spark plugs look like?
What kind of injectors are in it (color if you are not sure)?
Original distributor?
If so, do you have advance and retard? Where are they connected on the throttle body?
Is this a stock 2.0 or a built 1.7?
Thanks for the response. See below my responses.
I've replaced all serviceable parts and other parts as well.
What do your spark plugs look like?
- New Spark Plugs
What kind of injectors are in it (color if you are not sure)?
- New injectors and were tested running by previous owner who I bought the engine from
Original distributor?
- New 123Ignition electronic distributor
If so, do you have advance and retard?
- Electronic distributor with advance
Where are they connected on the throttle body?
- What do you mean?
Is this a stock 2.0 or a built 1.7?
Rebuilt 2.0 from 75/76 car
Appreciate the response. See below my response.
You are looking for a less than 1 volt drop so this is OK.
- As mentioned, there was no difference in voltage drop. The voltage remained the same during the test. So, are you saying that if it remains the same it is good?
Have you checked ignition timing and fuel pressure?
- I have changed the ignition to a 123ignition and spent a lot of setting it up and confirmed at TDC.
- New fuel pump installed and pressure tested to be 28-29 PSI.
I feel your pain. I'm in the same boat. I have similar issue and can't fix it. Todays project is start from scratch again.
Did you try an injector flow test ? My injectors only flow 2cc's with a fifteen second crank. Supposed to be 7 cc's.
Mine won't rev unless I spray gas into the throttle body .
Sorry I don't have an answer for you. I know the frustration.
The throttle body attachments were just to make sure you had the retard and advance going to the right port, but obviously that isn't an issue with the 123.
Sounds like you have everything covered, so this should be doable. I would verify you have the right injectors first, easy and free.
What is your vacuum at idle? Since everything else sounds good and you are having idle and rev issues I might be inclined to look at your valve adjustment.
Sounds like an ignition timing/advance issue.
I agree with Jeff. And now I notice that you think it is a 75/76 2.0 Those did not have an advance port. That could be your problem. Either unplug (and plug the port on the throttle body) the vacuum line to your distributor or switch it to A rather than 1 if you have the POT version of the 123.
You never know if they swapped out the throttle body or modified it so the port facing the distributor (if it is there) is the advance vacuum port. The port facing the direction of the rear passenger wheel is the retard port.
Wait, are we gonna talk about that 9.7v?
What was your voltage at the battery? If you’re getting 12v at the battery and only 9.7v between that pin and a ground, I recommend looking into that first. If you’re only getting 9.7v at the battery too, then you need to make sure you’re meeting required voltage. All kinds of weird gremlins can appear when insufficient voltage is in the circuit.
Mine is not a bluetooth version so must be a POT one. The throttle body on the engine only has the one port and ive connected the vacuum line to that port which is located at the rear of the throttle body (towards the rear of the car). Is it possible that I've hooked up the 123iginition to the retard? (there is no port closest to the distributor).
Im getting more that 12v at the battery but 9.7V at the pin and ground
Thanks. Will take another look at the hoses.
Thanks for the advice.
I pulled the relay board from the engine compartment today and split all the pins with a blade and cleaned them up too. Ive also redone my vacuum hoses as I believe based on todays advice that I connect the retard to the new 123iginition distributor. It seems idle a bit smoother but need to take it for a run tomorrow to see if any improvement. Also, need to do some more research on engine vacuum as havent look at that as yet.
And not when I pulled the plug wires one at a time didnt not much change at all.
Thanks again
Michael
Hi, thanks for the message.
Check all grounds many times and made sure that they were all firmly crimped.
Also, swapped out to nee voltage regulator early today and still get the same reading at 18 pin.
Cable to the starter has also been replaced with a new one. When you say hot cable I assume you are referring to the cable from starter to battery?
Regards
Michael
Just out of curiosity, did you just disconnect the vacuum from the distributor or did you switch to the A setting? I didn't really like the A setting on mine but mine is a 73 so I could switch to the advance setting on the 123. Haven't tried it on the advance setting without the vacuum attached. I suspect it would be little different.
are you sure its running on all 4
I tried without the vacuum attached on the advanced setting and no different.
Will be playing around with all setting variations today and let you know how I go. But Im hoping that the vacuum line from dizzy connected to retard and on A or B setting will my issue.
Thanks again
Joining this thread late but I don't see any verification of parts. Maybe I'm missing it (did see the generic comments in 1st post)?
ECU P/n
MPS p/n
In addition it seems like there was an engine swap or rebuild at one time.
Need to verify you have proper parts for the year of FI system -- system is not tolerant of mix and match parts between model years.
Per OP previous quote "And not when I pulled the plug wires one at a time didnt not much change at all."
There is something wrong . . . .
If you pull a plug you should notice a drop in RPM's. Either via ear, increased vibration, or via slight drop on a diagnostic (digital) tach.
The three things you must have for an engine to run:
Fuel
Compression
Spark
Have you compression checked the engine?
With respect to spark -- I do see the coil ohm checks. However, coils are notorious for measuring OK cold but then acting up as they get hot. If you're pulling spark plug wires and not getting a change in RPM's I'd be suspecting poor spark.
Likewise someone earlier asked about the plugs. Reply was "new". Once they have been run, they are no longer "new" it is easy to quickly foul out plugs especially if running rich. Likewise, the plug color (ranging from white (lean) to black (rich) and condition (dry, oily, wet with fuel) gives a lot of insight into what is or isn't going on in the combustion chamber. I'd suggest pulling the plugs and posting pictures here.
ECU - ive also changes the ECU to another which was tested and still have the same outcome.
MPS - was refurbished by reputable individual and recommended highly by most on 914world and it was calibrated to match the engine
Not too sure why when I pull the plug there is no different in RPM but others have said that not much RPM change either until you pull 2 plugs.
Fuel - Ive replaced fuel pump and its tested at 28-29 psi.
Compression - didnt check but purchased from individual who said engine ran fine before shipped. Will check when I get access to tester.
With respect to spark the coil is new and also fitted another coil and still same outcome.
As for the plugs, I have swapped out to a second set thinking that I may have foul plugs but still same result.
I will be checking the valve clearance this week to make sure that its right as I did not do this since fitting the engine.
I really appreciate your advice.
Will let you know how I go.
Regards
Michael
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