Hi everyone. I have been posting here and there about my recent re-discovery and acquisition of a car that I have known since I was 15 years old. In 1987 my father bought his fourth Porsche. A 914-6 born in 1970. It was a bone stock car in white over black that had been driven a little under 100k miles. It was well taken care of and had no rust. After driving his yellow 73 2.0 on the track and in PCA racing he wanted to retire that largely stock car to the street and get a dedicated racer.
The 6 was immediately sent to a body shop to get a chasis stiffening and flare treatment. An IMSA airdam was installed along with a rear spoiler. He took the BBS 7s and 8s off his 944 Turbo and shod them with cantilever slicks from hoosier. He then found a 2.8 RSR Bosch mechanical FI high butterlfly stack monster engine from PAR porsche in NY to motivate the car. Redline was set somewhere north of 9k rpm. Here is a pic of the original build:
He drove the car in many events for around 20 years. During that time i bought his old yellow car and i turned that into a race car as well. We even drove together (in different groups when i had the yellow car) at some events. We would also share the racing duties with the 6. In 2008 he sold the car and moved on to other cars but this one has always held a special place for me.
Two years ago I ended up meeting up with John who had bought the car from my dad. He was great and generously asked if i would like to join him racing for the year as co-driver. I jumped at the chance and we got (and get) along really well. At the end of the season he offered the car to me and, after selling the silver 75, was able to make the plunge.
The emotional bond and connection to my dad who passed in 2018 that this object evokes is strong and in some ways unexpected.
With this thread i hope to honor that tie to my dad by sharing maintenance, improvements, and continued racing with this special (to me) car. And I hope my dad can see it all.
Best of luck and sharing the memory.
Here is the car as i re-discovered it in 2020:
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It’s always special to get back a family car.
Great story and I am so glad you got that very special car back in your garage. I know your dad is smiling as he looks down to see you enjoying his car.
Great story and nice looking car.
Once i purchased the car the first order of business was to go through all the critical systems and to address general condition of the car. There was a lot of cleaning to do throughout and as each area was cleaned the plan was to paint and update whatever was needed.
I started with the brakes. At Summit Point PCA race they were overheating so wanted to do a full analysis of needs there.
This is what they looked like in the front:
I decided that all 4 calipers should go to PMB for full restoration and i ordered new soft and hard lines at each corner. Also, the cool brake ducting was in terrible shape and certainly not helping the cooling (and maybe i should brake less too).
Restored and installed:
Also notice the stainless steel line - that is another story i will cover later.
I also replaced the brake fluid reservoir, lines, and master cylinder.
Keep up the good fight. Car looks great!
Matt
Excellent Bill .........love the story
Very cool story and history.
great backstory... very nice.
Awesome
Sorry the hear about your dad's passing.
Next i addressed the interior. The seats were very out of date having been in there since 2003! The belts were out of date as well so those needed updating. Once the seats went in the mouting in existing brackets worked well on the width but they did sit higher in regards to the shoulder belts. This meant an almost 45 degree angle upward to reach the openings from the wirewall mounts. This absolutely had to change so i had a new bar made up and a friend of mine installed behind the seats at the correct angle. Safety first!
Here is the bar with seat and harness installed. You can see the old mounting points in gold still in place as well.
And the harness and seat setup.
Next was installation of fire suppresion. The car had a single hand held extinguisher in between the seats. Meets race rules but not really adequate for a serious fire of any sort. Chose aqueous foam as it is proven and doesnt cut off my oxygen like a gas solution. There are two nozzles pointed at the carbs in the engine bay, two nozzles pointed at the floor/occupants in the cabin, one where the original gas tank was that now houses battery and fuel pump, and one in front section of front trunk that addresses the fuel cell. I also have a hand held Element extinguisher for minor issues that wont leave a huge mess like the foam will.
Next item to change was out of necesity. On the way back from the pro shop a wire ended up contacting something bad under the dash and i had a ton of smoke in the cabin. Pulled over and grabbed the extinguisher thinking the worst. I hit the kill switch and no active fire started thank goodness. Of course i had high confidence in my suppression tools but glad i didnt need to use them!
So the decision for what to do for the electical system? Choice A was to patch the melty wires and keep rolling. Choice B was to install brand new -6 harness. Choice C was to install aftermarket harness kit. Choice D was to go with an AIM PDM, dash, and smartycam setup.
Choice A was pretty hack and i really didnt want to have things done part way. B was very attractive but at a price point of $3600 gave me some pause. Option C i actually acted on and purchased a harness by Bare Bonz from JEGS. However I ended up going with solution D as, for around the price of just the original style harness, i could get a full plug and play setup for the track that was custom built for my needs. I need only a small fraction of wires and kept headlights, wipers, brake lights.
Major components are the Power Distribution module that serves as fuse block and central brain of the system, the Dash which is really configurable, and the smartycam which autorecords when you go faster than 25mph.
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In concert with the electrical system i wanted to address the dash.
The PO built a nice dash but it was rather heavy and not really in keeping with my vision so worked with an awesome friend of mine who took a stock dash and rebuilt the front out of aluminum for a clean look that will allow installation of accessories. I am really excited about it but still need to figure out a nice enclosure for the back of the gauge pod. The hoop and upper secrion of dash are stock so will try to mirror as close to original look as possible. Function trumps that though. Will be installing electrical kill switch in next couple days. Has the AIM keypad, fire extinguisher pull, and data upllink installed.
The cage had a bar under the dash that was meant to keep integrity in case of side impact. However for me the bar landed about an inch away from my knee in my preferred seating arrangement. If i had any impact to the front i would likely impact my kneecaps in the steel and probably be permanently injured. Not so cool!
So had a bar made to fit higher up under the dash that provides the same protection without the same clear risk. My buddy Ryan again to the rescue!
Bill that’s a fantastic back story. Glad the 914
came back to you. Good luck with the rejuvenation. Looks like you have it well in hand.
Would love to see any pics of the RSR power plant in that chassis.
So cool.
Next for safety was the window net. The old one had a bar bottom and top mounted to the cage through loops welded in. The spring loaded bar was from the bottom meaning that the net flipped up. This is not a safe nor legal to current rules design (my dad set it up this way originally) so it needed to go. Current net attaches directly to cage nascar bars on the bottom via 4 straps. The top uses the original cage mounted loops and has the spring mounted bar. Net drops down quickly and easily.
This pic i used already but shows the setup.
What a cool story and a great car
Antoine
The pedal cluster, to my knowledge, had never been refreshed and it looked it. So i sent mine to Bruce Stone who did an awesome job. Here it is installed but prior to wiring cleanup:
The original pedal board did not exist so i purchased and installed a rennline board, dead pedal, floorboard, and all three pedal grips.
Here it is today while i wait for the engine rebuild (more on that later)
Exterior and interior needed a significant cleaning and i also wanted to rebrand the car a little more to my liking. My inspirations included the factory GTs and some privateers. I am also a little bit of a watch guy and really like the Heuer livery so focused on that. I am earnestly looking for a reasonably priced set of Heuer rally timers but they are soooo expensive so am holding off on that for more important things.
After deep cleaning, clay bar, and two stage polish with the orbital the car was ready to rebrand. Here is where the car is as of today:
Passenger
A lesson learned.
In february i went to Roebling Road to race with VDCA. Just prior to first practice we noticed some fuel leaking from the engine bay. Turns out a hose had failed and we quickly sourced a new one and replaced the entire hose that was faulty. However, this gobbled up the time that was to install the pedal board and integrated pedal stop. The car previously had a bolt installed below the pedal to serve as a stop as it had no board. I re-used that hole to run the brake pressure sensor for the AIM PDM. Thus no stop for the throttle anymore.
Lap 2 of practice coming onto the front straight the pedal moved further than it should and bent the throttle control arm and locked the throttle open. I moved off track to the right but shifted. Engine saw 9022 rpm before i shut it down. Result we would find was some bent valves only. Not terrible but certainly ended the weekend.
Lesson learned? Always always always check your equipment and never go out without knowing you are 100% prepped. Not realizing i had inadvertently removed a safeguard and then not installing the replacement when it is right there is not acceptable.
Just curious--what's the max size driver that can fit with those seats, and the cross bar behind the seats?
Not sure on max but i am 6' and have about 1" extra room on the rules with my helmet on. That is without removing the bottom seat cushion.
So since the engine needs to be rebuilt it is a good time to address the engine bay. The entire thing had a layer of grease/dirt/grime covering black paint covering the original white paint. I started out by simply trying to degrease but it was clear that it was wholly inadequate. Thus began the painstaking process of stripper and scraper.
This took on and off around a week to get to a point i felt comfortable to paint.
I did a self-etching primer followed by semi gloss paint. As i redo the interior areas i am using this in anticipation of a few years from now redoing the body. Have already cleaned and painted the cage and cabin, trunk, and now engine bay. Goal is to look for rust and provide a clean surface to work on mechanicals.
Also installed new engine bay seals as old ones were quite aged qith cracks and tears. Love that top and bottom in this area are clean!
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Working through some of the needs after the last event i decided to add another kill switch in addition to the one outside. Dash mount so i can reach it easily.
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Made some good progress this weekend. Got the engine bay finished:
And engine is nearly done:
Bill, looking great! What size engine are you putting in?
2.4 twin plug short stroke. Super excited to have a motor that will be in a class and be competitive! Too bad the driver is sooooooo slow.
What dizzy are you running?
That engine sounds like fun. What bore are you running to get 2.4 SS? I’m going to be tearing down the core engine I have soon to see what we have. The previous owner claimed 2.5L but couldn’t confirm what crank or bore.
I am running a new JB Racing dizzy. The original marelli ones are priced crazy high so this was a great solution. New parts readily available and built to spec.
Not sure on bore exactly but i know the crank is 66mm. Told him i wanted to be competitive and legal but not build a 10 hour motor either.
Big setback yesterday. Was planning on running with PCA at VIR this weekend but motor wasnt ready. Had it running and in the car but not tuned yet when an oil return tube started leaking badly. Not enough time to repair and retest at this point. Also have a broken tip for the accelerator cable guide tube on the firewall in engine bay which is preventing the cable from being installed.
Pretty depressed today as there has been a ton of work to date and this was an event i was very excited about.
wow you’ve really been busy getting it ready. sorry to hear that you can’t go this weekend. i hope to see this in person, let me know if you will run here at Roebling road or i around Charlotte in the near future!
Updated fronts to S calipers and installed new pads for the race at Summit in less than two weeks.
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And in other good news the engine is completed and leak free. Have not run it hard but sounds amazing and excited to run it at the track. Will hopefully get some dyno tune time this week.
Beautiful. Good luck on the Dyno.
Well a mixed bag but mostly good today. Started off the day learning that i could not get to the dyno before the event. Not a huge deal as it had tune time on engine stand rig and in the car a bit but would have preferred to do more diagnostics.
Then was doing a gravity bleed on the brakes and dropped the bleed bottle all over the fender, myself, and the floor. Super not fun that!!!
However had some pluses too. Got a really hard brake pedal after a friend came over to help. I could not get one from pressure nor gravity bleeding and was giving me fits. Very happy with that.
Lastly I put the "Dunpy" stickers that our very own #40 hero reproduced. Not placed where the factory car had them but i like the location i picked. @Maltese Falcon
With the GT lid installed and the air cleaners in place I am essentially ready for next weeks Jefferson 500 races at Summit Point.
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=11106 - John in Denver did my engine. Had the heads done at extreme Heads in Florida (they provide heads to Singer for their engines) and the twin plug distributor from JB Racing also in Florida. AA for Ps and Cs and the 66mm crank was from Johns personal stash. Reused the PMO 46s that were already there as welll as the case. Did get a new shroud made as my old one was pretty beat. New coils and msd digital boxes.
Look how small it is next to the taycan. Crazy.
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At a test and tune day at CMP in August had a rod come through the case. Bad luck for sure and now starting from scratch. Here is the starting point, a 7R case with all the tricks redone by ollies:
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What a terrific car. So sorry about the engine issue. But the 7R case is very nice and will really be solid. Good luck and I hope it comes together quickly and runs great.
Great story Bill.
Work is progressing consistently. New rear decklid with period correct latches and have the gt drilled style hinges from Oscar to install on both ends. Had a new fuel cell and mount put in along with new shroud and cooler from Patrick motorsports installed. Lines for oil and fuel need to be reinstalled..
doing new oil lines. Engine case is getting boat tailed while we wait on internals. Thinking custom Mahle for ps and.cs, carillo rods, pauter rockers and pushrods, etc. I want this engine to be perfect.
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@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=15610 who is John in Denver, the engine builder, not the musician?
Not Denver CO . Have a different person building this motor. Feel free to PM me if you want to know more
Car is looking good Bill ! Your engine builder also builds awesome shipping crates. One of his very "Special" deliveries was a race trans brought to a small California airport in his Cessna, close to the track. It was for a client that broke his 915 box on Saturday...but finished the race weekend with a fresh gearbox !
I think I'm in love.
Picked up a porsche classic dished steering wheel with emblem. I like the momo that is in there now but this one is very slick.
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Collecting more goodies to be installed for the new buildout.
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So a component that was really not that great was my quick release. It is the style that has two pulls on either side that allowed you to remove the wheel. At times it would bind and not easily release. Never had to escape the car but if that part doesn't release quickly when i really need it to then that is a safety issue. So i asked here and did some research and found i liked the design and operation of the rennline version. Only two downsides. 1. I cant use the porsche crest horn button unless i use what, to me, is an ugly retaining ring. So i may try and find a sticker to put there or leave as is. Not a biggie really.
Second issue is the now much longer assembly putting the steering wheel maybe an inch or more closer than i want. Does anyone know if a short hub adapter exists for the 914-6/911 steering shaft? Current one (it is the black accordian hub in the second picture) is 3" deep. Do they make.one that is shorter than that? 1" would be ideal. Current one is the collapsible version which i dont need with six point harness and race seats.
Your car is looking great, I’m almost jealous (don’t say that out loud near my car). I’ve been dreaming of an rs+ spec 2.7 for years, already have the 7r core.
I look forward to your impressions of your new engine on track, are you going under 2.5L?
Yes building a legal 2.4 on the off chance they check. It is pricier to do that way because it requires custom Ps and Cs. Having LN do those. Also having Extreme do the heads. Hope it will work out well.
The car did previously have a 2.7rs-ish motor. The issue with that is of course it is in the same class as the 3ltr RSRs which it just cannot compete with (at least with me driving) and its too big to run in the up to 2.5 class. According to a couple of the groups i run with one cannot build larger than 2399cc. There are quite a few cars in the under 2.5 ltr class as well and looking forward to compete and have fun.
Latest update is that i got new steering wheel and as it is dished it was too close to me when harnessed in. So got a shorter hub adapter from rennline and installed today. Much much better and it looks pretty clean now as well.
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This is coming along so nicely. That will be a nice power plant for sure. Looking forward to more.
I shared case pictures before but now have the heads from Extreme Heads in FL to share. These are custom billet heads specifically designed for this engine. Excited to see how they work and certainly hope they live up to the hype. This is the shop that builds the heads for the Singer cars...
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Hi Bill, the cyl heads resemble Cusimano "D" port billet heads of the 935 days, some lucky 930 Street guys ran these too Love this 9146 racer/ restoration!! Good call on the fire suppression Foam...I'm stealing your idea & putting this into the 8-gtt build.
Marty
Bill those heads are works of art!!
So the case i sourced out of AASE had already had all the work completed (aside from boattailing which the builder has done) and did NOT include shuffle pinning. There are differing opinions out there but many say on the magnesium cases that you should not pin due to higher risk of cracks developing. Aluminum cases from what i heard should be.
New upgrade will be this comms system for racing. May certainly come in handy especially for longer runs and for knowing when that green flag is flying! Helmet is already wired and has correct plug, mic, and speakers so all i have to do is install in the car.
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Build has started in earnest. Here are some pics to enjoy
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One more
Did you do the oil pressure relief mod on the case?
Heads as done by Extreme
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Head and the custom jes with LN Nickies
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Well the bearings came in and the bottom end is now sealed up! Getting excited.
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Adding some in flight pictures for everyone's amusement. Let me know for questions!
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A few more.
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So a bit of a bummer just now. As buider was torquing the head studs, two of them pulled out. Now have to take the engine back down and do timeserts for those two. Not a huge deal from what he tells me but definitely costing time. It was looking nice too....
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So big milestone today ss the long block is assembled and tight! Next are cams and timing.
Very excited to get to.this point for sure. Should be starting the process late next week of getting the rest assembled and getting it in the car.
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Happy and honored to be part of this build. I am about to wrap up the 6 case build. This build was started with a barren 6 case (used, not NOS), and after a long discussion Bill decided what gears he wanted to go into it; A, GA, O, V, Z. We used data on my site to see what was bolted to similar engine configurations, and what goal was at what RPM. Today is final assembly and then ship it out.
Step 1, the case and cleaning with the laser.
Next, now that the mag alloy is bare, time to put protectant on it to prevent future oxidation. I like Gibbs. Easy to use, lasts a long time.
Freshly lasered
Gibbs
After Gibbs
Next, onto the usual work of setting everything up correctly. Since this was a barren case, I had no start point as I couldnt use the pinion, or diff that came with it so I had to get close and then adjust from there. It didnt take but two adjustments for the pinion and one for the diff to get preload, back last, pinion depth all set perfect.
the N number on the head of this pinion was 10, and I just happened to hit that mark dead on. Tolerance is +/-0.03mm.
Using prussian blue I check the contact pattern of the ring and pinion. I do this with all builds because rarely, but not never, you can set everything perfectly to spec and it will not have the right contact pattern. The newest of these is 47yo or so, there will always be some wear. It calms me to take this extra step.
On to the gear selection and assembly. Chosen from my stock were A, GA, O, V, Z. New teeth, sliders, bands affixed, everything assembled and forks adjusted.
very nice! Curious what the stock 914/6 gears were vs what was selected, what was the goal, is it racing?
Hey Phil. Yes race only. Stock gearsets and ratios for a standard 6 box are A 3.091, GA 1.778, O 1.217, V 0.9259, and ZA 0.7586.
So essentially i am only changing the last gear from ZA to Z 0.7931. Doesnt seem like a lot but that ZA gear is way too long and the rpm drop too great to be effective coming out of a faster corner like last corner at Road Atlanta for example. The gear selection keeps me in the anticiapted power band for every gear.
My former box has M, S, X as final gears and i would run out of rpm on the straight at most tracks i run. Was very frustrating to watch other cars creep away as i had to hold at 125mph basically. No fun.
With my redline and tire size we are looking at around 142.5mph.
Last before its packed and shipped.
Selected a tail cone from a donor, dirty but not corroded. Had concretions and all manner of crap contaminating it. The laser, preceded buy a little elbow grease, made short work of it.
Scrape of the chuncks.
First pass patch with the laser to assess wattage and duration was appropriate.
After I let'er rip.
After Gibbs treatment and installed.
Thanks for.those setups Glenn! Our gear stack is really close. I do have a 904 mainshaft waiting for a future build as well to get creative. Is a 4 speed 901 gearbox easy to come by?
Things are starting to come together. Engine will be at the shop on Tuesday. Transmission arrived yesterday. And today they started the install for the oill lines. I have taken the decision to replace essentailly all the lines and a new cooler up front. The oil tank was professionally cleaned as well. Also adding a thermostat and second oil filter. Not leaving anything to chance.
A couple shots of the install so far
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Throwback time while i am cleaning the garage. My dad 23 years ago. Same car
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It is a good.day.... engine is assembled by Charlie and ready to install flywheel and clutch. Trans will follow and be ready to install! We do have a slight delay as the oil lines are not fully installed yet.
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Exciting times anticipation building!
Trans from Dr Evil and headers from MSDS were mated with the Charlie of Renngeist engine!
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I did get a high performance flywheel and clutch from Patrick Motorsports. Did not go the aluminum or ultra mimimal flywheel mainly because i have no experiences with them.
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Great progress last week. Oil lines, thermostat, new cooler, and filters all plumbed now. Fuel system is set as well with dual pickup and new tank. Engine and trans are in and i transported the car to get final assembly and breakin done. Getting pretty darn close now for sure.
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Looks great!
Thanks. The encouragement really helps. My desire to make sure everything is done right (which takes time) competing with the desire to get out there and race (temptation to cut corners) is in a constant tug of war!
If anyone sees something they are not quite sure about let me know! Or any questions on what i used am happy to share. Pretty much everything inspiring either came from experience or just as likely from here so very grateful for this place.
Havent updated in a while. Car is with engine builder awaiting final assembly and dyno
Also going to add in throttle and steering positioning sensors to complete driver aids/analysis. Packed it up and drove it to destination last weekend.
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Which data system are you using?
I badly need to replace my traq mate and have been procrastinating
Two step process for me. Wiring was all hinky and fried so went with the AIM PDM08 system. Essentially manages everything with solid state fusing. Very customizable and fairly easy to setup. It includes the power distribution module, gps beacon, and the aim dash as well. Hooked up a smartycam which automatically starts when driving. You do need to wire the harness or it can be done for you. I worked with Matt Romanowski and he made it relatively painless.
https://trailbrake.com/pdm8/
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=47 did that help?
yes sir.
thank you
Matt is really a great resource.
I spoke with him once about it... and looks like a great solution
need to do this... just prioritizing money..
but looks like the right system.
brant
Yeah it is not cheap. Think it was around $3k when all was said and done. However with all 100% new wiring and lots of flexibility was worth it. Get the 32 not the 8 like i did. Prices seem to have went down a little so should net out
Have not updated this in quite some time. Had gotten the car back and did some dyno time to get initial breakin started. Not overly interested in looking at hp/tq numbers but just make sure it was set to initial tune. Car sounded good and was excited to get it to the track for continued breakin laps and had 1.5 days to do that set on Summit Point with PCA.
Some pics from Sept last year.
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Got to the track and ran for a few laps before encountering some stuttering. Shut the car down and rolled in. Glad i did that it would turn out.
A lesson learned is that after any intiial break in you must retorque everything. Turns out that during breakin there were a couple studs that pulled out and one of the head stud nuts loosened up. After Peter Dawes was kind of enough to loan some of his guys for some diagnostics they found these issues. Net result was no apparent damage thanks to shutting down quickly and there was confirmed zero damage upon imspection after disassembly once i took the car back to my builder. He is finishing the case work and putting it all back together i hope by end of this month. We made a change in the head studs to a more appropriate type and oversize inserts to ensure we dont have another issue. We want it right.
Long journey. Patience rules.
In the meantime i bought a 2020 911 to manage my speed urges.
Got to the track and ran for a few laps before encountering some stuttering. Shut the car down and rolled in. Glad i did that it would turn out.
A lesson learned is that after any intiial break in you must retorque everything. Turns out that during breakin there were a couple studs that pulled out and one of the head stud nuts loosened up. After Peter Dawes was kind of enough to loan some of his guys for some diagnostics they found these issues. Net result was no apparent damage thanks to shutting down quickly and there was confirmed zero damage upon imspection after disassembly once i took the car back to my builder. He is finishing the case work and putting it all back together i hope by end of this month. We made a change in the head studs to a more appropriate type and oversize inserts to ensure we dont have another issue. We want it right.
Long journey. Patience rules.
In the meantime i bought a 2020 911 to manage my speed urges.
Engine ready to go back in!
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It is a good day today! Engine finally reunited and will be hooked up fully and running next week.
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Nice work
Exciting
Engine alive and dyno next friday.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/x99a0xl68u9dayh11v2da/AMfDUnTUGyCJ-9u7V_kPnQc?rlkey=q7t10gkewa41ru3b4e6qrhwhd&dl=0
Home safe finally. All issues now sorted and time to nut and bolt it, add some things like gauge pod cover, race radio, and some cosmetic stuff.
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Now that I have the car back from engine build going to do some fine tuning and updates. First off is getting for primary wheels a more appropriate combo. The wheels used on some of the GTs used fuchs in the front of 15x7 or 8, but fuchs were not made in 15x9 widths yet to get more meat on the powered end. So they used minilites in the rear instead. Some of the 911s also used this setup. I wanted to take a nod to this heritage and sprung for a nice set of Al Reed wheels done in rsr-style finish in the front and a pair of minilites I bought from Steve Limbert about 2 years ago but hadn't mounted yet. Tight fight but looks like they will work without rubbing. Love the style and the historic homage. Some won't understand but if ya know, ya know.
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Loving it, car looks great, glad you’re getting it sorted!!!
Nice!
Wow! Love this car!
So on to more updates now!
As a track car I want to have the ability to communicate back to the crew and to get information from them as well. As I had mentioned before, I bought a radio set to make just that happen. First step is to plan out wiring and radio box in the car. After that will update with the external antenna install
Here is how wiring is roughly routed as of today. Any suggestions are welcome!
Steering wheel push to talk
Down steering column
Down cage to floorboard
Over to radio box. Antenna and helmet plug (my roux helmet has a jack and speakers/mic built in) off of radio as well
Get one of these wheels, I don’t have them hooked up, but i was going to do one to turn on my datalogger…
I like your wheel for sure, but paid a small fortune for the porsche wheel so I am staying put lol. The AIM system I have logs everything automatically and starts the camera at 25mph to boot.
The only thing I am worried about is the cord at the steering wheel. How have others mounted to stay free and clear of binding?
Soooooo.... after patiently waiting and updating had an amazing father's day weekend with the car. Spent Saturday breaking in the engine and shaking out the race radios, new wheels, and other odds and ends. Engine was okay but lots of hesitation between 4100 and 4900. Kept going moderate pace and different rims. Sunday proved to see that lag spot go away as we played with jetting and kept a close eye on plugs and boroscoping the cylinders to see if everything looked OK. The car performed quite well as I gradually dropped a couple seconds off lap times every session. Ended up being fairly fast even passing a gt3. Not shabby.
Lots of compliments on how the engine sounds and how the car looked on track. Really.satisfying and spent great time with my son and my buddy flew in to help with all the technical stuff. He was awesome as always.
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Bill>> def a pride of ownership car; hot build & *good graphics...*not overdone or busy. Keep the shiny side up
Looks good! But watch out for number 29.
Some.videos
https://youtu.be/G7oMSleY9QA?si=BgYiRRhpW4gMMB5_
In preparation for suspension update and looking for rust, I had the car dry ice cleaned and rock guard coated for the entire underside and wheel wells. 54 years of road and track grime gets into every crevice. Pulled the floors down to essentially bare metal and relieved any loose coating from everywhere else. Found some rust in rear pan that will be replaced after the rest of the race season. Have every metal piece I may need ready to go. An assessment by a great shop early this year indicated after probing as much as possible that was likely limited to just floor but will see when we get in there. This car has lived in garage or trailer for at least 40 years so hopefully limited degradation.
I am very happy with the result!
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Note that this wasn't the final cleanup. The headers sparkled engine and trans now cleaned as well. Local guy here in NC That has done all kinds of cars including a pristine restored 904.
Wanted to also give a more formal nod to Merritt Motors in Kannapolis NC for the cleaning and resealing of the floors on the car. Jared is the owner and is definitely a car guy through and through. Loves F1 and has everything from a 911, to old school suburban with hot rod customization, to Bonneville salt flat cars. He took so much time to make sure I understood the process and was happy with the outcome. I definitely am.
https://merrittmotorsco.com/home/
Not sure how to embed this instagram video, but here is the car leaving Merritt.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C9SJ7-UuRCM/?igsh=Mmpja2l1NjZxNXlu
Definitely true! Fortunately this was just a passive open track day.
Haven't posted in a while! Father's day had a great weekend and the car ran well. However I did have another head stud pull out and thus yet another rebuild. I had the case fixed but decided to pull the trigger on a brand new case from Porsche. Not 50 year old magnesium but brand new zero heat cycles no excuses case. I did check on getting billet done but they just don't make the 7r case. Only damage to internals was the slightest of nearly imperceptible blemishes on the nikasil cylinders so.sent those out to be redone.
Engine is progressing now at Black Forest racing (Cody). Here are shots of the case, which other than the other one I have, is the last one in the country at present.
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Wow is all I can say; a thing of beauty.
I want it to be perfect and the only way to achieve that is with the best parts and labor. 10 years ago I could have bought an entire decent driver for what that case cost.
What Head Studs are you using ?
Steel porsche. It's what Peter Dawes uses.
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