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Posted by: TRS63 Mar 17 2022, 10:24 AM

Hello all,

slowly I am coming to the point of thinking about putting the engine back..but now is also the point for some preventive maintenance on it!

The start:
-engine is the original 1,8l with L-Jet
-it worked all good until I stopped it and removed the engine for rust repair last August
-fuel pump is approx 2 years old

What is planned:
-oil change of course
-oil+air filter of course
-all fuel lines, engine side but also the ones in the tunnel (stainless steel ones) and under the tank

I don't want to invest so much as it was a good running unit and I don't want to overdo. But I want a reliable car and more than that as much safety as possible (especially fire-risks).
I am also unsure what the future will be : carbs or modern FI with ITBs ? I am missing the clean look and admission sound with the current setup. So no unnecessary invest in the L-Jet. What is sure: I will stay in the future with a 4 cylinders (but probably a bigger one) for weight reasons.

-->do I need to change injectors sealings ? If yes, which ones?
-->something else ?

Thanks for the inputs

Antoine

Posted by: Shivers Mar 17 2022, 10:48 AM

How many miles on the engine? If older, and it was me I would be replacing the front and rear seals, the V belt, the TO bearing and depending on the life left, maybe the clutch. The seals are not much, mostly your time.

Posted by: TRS63 Mar 17 2022, 10:58 AM

I don't know the mileage..really low the last 15 years, like 6-8000 miles in 15 years..

Thanks for your inputs I will check these !

Antoine

Posted by: 914Mels Mar 17 2022, 08:15 PM

The small injector seals that fit into the intake tubes are easy. Push rod tube seals are way easier out of the car and not a lot of money. The rubber around the engine compartment is usually pretty toasty and easy to do with the engine out.

Posted by: wonkipop Mar 17 2022, 08:57 PM

as per @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=24781 .

do those end seals with the engine out.
you might consider diving in and doing the oil cooler seals, but you have to get a bit off to get in there and do that.
you will kick youself if you don't do the end seals and have to pull the engine again.

most of the rest of it is fine whatever happens along the way with the engine in the car.
perhaps slightly less convenient but if you don't want to do unnecessary work that would be the way to go.

you might be lucky with injectors, but the hoses might have dried out.
again you can do that once you get it back in car and fired up and check it out.
no big deal. perhaps slightly less convenient.

exciting for you.

ps i did not pull the engine on mine when i recommissioned.
just the gearbox and did the clutch flywheel and rear seal.
the front seal started to leak after i got it back on the road again.
and i thought, ah ....f k.
but then after a couple of good long runs by miracle it stopped.

those seals are well worth doing.

Posted by: bkrantz Mar 17 2022, 09:44 PM

Any indication of pushrod tube seal oil leaks? That's another job that is low cost and much, much easier with the engine out.

Posted by: SKL1 Mar 17 2022, 09:54 PM

Oh heck, while the engine is out, just add a new engine mount, oil tank, assorted hoses etc, and a six cylinder engine...

Posted by: 930cabman Mar 18 2022, 05:00 AM

What is there NOT to change "while you are in there"?

Posted by: BK911 Mar 18 2022, 06:56 AM

Rubber brake lines. Rears much easier with engine out of the way.
Verify rear calipers work.
Rebuild if necessary.

Posted by: Eric_Shea Mar 18 2022, 01:44 PM

Bingo. The rear soft lines are one of the hardest jobs to do on a car with the motor installed.

Posted by: TRS63 Mar 20 2022, 02:29 PM

Thanks so much for all your inputs!!

Brake lines are already planned, as is the rubber around the engine. I was unsure about the engine itself

I will look for those end seals, thanks!

Antoine