Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: Rick986 Jul 21 2022, 10:31 AM

Been noticing a challenge getting it into 4th for about a week in my '75. Now, fully impossible. Where do I start looking first? Thanks.

Posted by: flipb Jul 21 2022, 11:01 AM

Trace the shift linkage rod from the firewall to the shift console on the transmission. Check for loose play, worn/missing bushings, or damage to the rod itself. Mine once separated where the rear half could rotate freely from the front half.

Posted by: emerygt350 Jul 21 2022, 12:17 PM

While you are down there, check the cone screw right under that big boot on the firewall. I finally put the 'super locktite' on mine. Every 4 months it would wiggle loose and the stick would get sloppy.

Posted by: NARP74 Jul 21 2022, 12:26 PM

Check both cone screws while you are at it. Careful with the strong (red) loctite. The head can strip out before the threads break loose. New ones are suggested.

Posted by: Dr Evil Jul 21 2022, 12:32 PM

Check universal joint at fire wall, cone screws as stated. Check for anything interfering in the inside tunnel as that is where the guide tune for the clutch is. If all in good shape, disconnect linkage at trans and see if you can shift it by hand. If not, the problem is likely internal. Fork bolt may have come lose. The good news, this is an easy fix if internal and I can walk you through it.

Posted by: NARP74 Jul 21 2022, 02:13 PM

I have also heard longer seat belt bolts on one side of the tunnel can interfere but I don't remember what gate they mess with.

Posted by: Rick986 Jul 21 2022, 02:30 PM

Thanks guys. Got her up on the lift now and am investigating!

Rookie question though - if it's something in the tunnel, how do I get in there???

Posted by: NARP74 Jul 21 2022, 02:31 PM

Is the R & 1 gate all the way up or down in back at the transmission end?

Posted by: Rick986 Jul 21 2022, 02:32 PM

Hey Flip - define "loose play". I can totally move that rod back & forth by hand. I assuming it's supposed to move that freely???

Posted by: Rick986 Jul 21 2022, 02:36 PM

Hi - could you please clarify? It shifts into R and 1-3. I took the linkage cover off at trans and everything looks connected there...but the play is really loose. This is my first time looking at this issue and not sure how much play is expected! Any additional info would be great! Thanks in advance.

Posted by: NARP74 Jul 21 2022, 02:39 PM

R & 1 will be at one level, 2 & 3 will be in the middle, 4 & 5 will be at the other end in the back at the trans. I can never remember which is upper most and which is lower on the rod into the transmission.

Posted by: Rick986 Jul 21 2022, 03:18 PM

Pulled the boot cover back at firewall and this fell out. What is it and where should it go?

And what are these "cone screws" you guys are referencing? Thanks guys!


Attached image(s)

Posted by: Rick986 Jul 21 2022, 03:43 PM

Sorry I'm being lazy! I'm doing my homework and see the piece that fell out is the bushing from the coupler! And I think the one on the other side is gone completely. Checking...

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jul 21 2022, 03:50 PM

See the Allen-head fastener in your second pic? That is the cone screw. Or rather, one of them. The other screws in through the shift rod head that goes on the rear end of the rear shift rod, hiding up above the plastic boot on the side of the transmission.

--DD

Posted by: Rick986 Jul 22 2022, 07:07 AM

Yes, I figured that out. Thanks Dave. Really appreciate everyone's help here! I ordered a set of brass bushings and new screws yesterday. Hopefully that fixes the problem.

Posted by: DRPHIL914 Jul 22 2022, 07:21 AM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=25869

i saw this late last nite, just getting some time this morning to log on and give you some info and advice,

You are on the right track, this is what happens that bushing will look just fine and then it just crumbles. Its not all gone so you have some leverage to get some gears but it hast to be pulled and replaced. I have some pictures i posted on my build thread from doing this about 2 year ago. i had the same senario . I did the brass bushings for the shift coupler bushing i think thats the best way to go. you also ordered the new cone screws, but i also would recommend the new brass bushing for the shift console and the new plastic cup that goes on the console coupler and i would do a new firewall bushing, you dont want to do this 2 or 3 times. Get a new console cover as well.
914rubber has most of those parts, but Rich at 914werke , he is a member here too and has some cool parts, has a brass console bushing, and Rick at RIX914parts.com or Chris Foley at Tangerine Racing both have a version of a better firewall bushing. Tangerine version is big and beefy more for racing. you will find lots of infor use the search function here to look this up . if i have time i will post a few links for you.

you will completely remove your shift bar by removing that cone screw at front and back, pull that cover off the console and the one at the fire wall- get new ones, pull the bar out and you will have to press out the metal pin that holds the coupler on the end of the bar. DO NOT HAMMER IT. you will mar it and it wont come out or go back in , you have to press it out and press it back in . it has several splines and its not perfectly cylindrical that is so it will stay in once pressed into place.

Good luck - get those other new parts ordered today,

Phil

Posted by: DRPHIL914 Jul 22 2022, 07:27 AM

here are a few links

https://www.rix914parts.com/store/c2/Exclusive_Rix914Parts.html

https://914werke.com/shop/ols/products/sideshift-brnz-bush/v/SHF-ROD1-BRN

https://914rubber.com/side-shift-cover-sealing-sleeve-1

https://914rubber.com/side-shifter-housing-cover-1

this one is for Tangerine ahd he has a full shift system but the firewall bushing is really stout, the rear console modification with take the slop and looseness out of your shifting,

http://www.tangerineracing.com/shiftlinkage.htm

Posted by: ndfrigi Jul 22 2022, 08:04 AM

http://914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=56765

Posted by: DRPHIL914 Jul 22 2022, 08:41 AM

there ya go, thanks @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=13474

Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jul 22 2022, 10:44 AM

yup new delrin coupler bushings should fix you right up!

Posted by: Rick986 Jul 28 2022, 10:44 AM

It's been said before, but I must say it again: WHAT AN AWESOME COMMUNITY WE HAVE HERE! I fixed my issue with limited time involved (and no expensive trip to the shop) thanks to all of you! THANK YOU, EVERYONE!

Posted by: StarBear Jul 28 2022, 01:35 PM

So, what was the final issue and solution?

Posted by: Rick986 Jul 29 2022, 11:31 AM

The bushings in the front coupler. One was totally disintegrated and the other missing a chunk. $40 fix (thanks @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=4947 ), including two new cone screws. Took me about an hour. Getting that pin out is a bit of a bitch! Impressive difference in shifting!

Thanks again, everybody!

Posted by: porschetub Jul 29 2022, 06:11 PM

Why brass bushing ? never seen the point of them,same effort to fit the stock plastic ones ,admit there is some great aftermarket parts to improve shifting with our cars but IMO these are not one of them.
My system is far from stock and is custom built due to 6cyl motor but I found the Tangerine bulkhead bush was the best improvement from the loose fitting factory stock one,second best was going to oilite metal bushes in the shift console after going to dual bushes and rear shift rod uni-joints x 2.
This setup isn't for everyone but certainly look @ the oilite bush from 914worke for the rear console and the Tangerine bulkhead kit ,both of these remove lost motion from the system which can hardly be described as perfect even when new.
Good luck
.
P.S. the pic is early development of this conversion,somewhat refined later on.