i have a 74 914, and there is a 911 for sale--1974.
no oil leaks on the 911 and what-not. they want 7900 for it.
tell me all about 911s....
Buy it and swap all that tail dragger stuff into the teener.
OH BTW DON'T LET AUGUST SLIP BY. I got the inch to build another motor. and the 1.7 is going to give up the case.
74's have the 2.7 liter engine which is generally considered the worst 911 engine. 74's didn't have the smog equipment that the 76-77's did, which made those engine's much worse because they run hot and wear out fast. That being said the 74's still had the 2.7 which has not proven to be as reliable as the later sc and carerra motors. If the engine has been re-built (correctly!) and the car is otherwise solid, it could be a good deal. Just realize that most 911 people think that the 74-77 cars kind of suck and arent worth much, so when the time comes to sell you can loose your shirt real fast....
The '74 is certainly the best of the 2.7s stock. The ('72-'73) 2.4s are generally more expensive in similar condition, which is an indication of how people feel about the 2.7s. Once the 2.7 is rebuilt, though, it's a very nice engine.
The '75-'77 cars had more smog stuff, some of which was lethal to the engine. In place of catalytic convertors, a small number of manufacturers chose to use thermal reactors, which were big lumps of cast iron forming the exhaust manifolds, air injected to promote combustion of any remaining HCs after they'd blown out the exhaust valve. This generated tremendous heat, and tremendous underhood temps that cooked everything. Just the thing you need on an air-cooled engine...What the Porsche engineers were thinking, I have no idea. After the company was nearly bankrupted from warranty problems and the general unhappiness with the brand (911s that blew up, the 928 that just didn't push enough people's buttons, and the 924), Porsche wised up and switched to catalytic convertors with the SC, also using the Al case of the 930, which resulted in one of the most reliable engines they've ever made.
As for the general 914 v 911 thing, you need to drive a 911. They're very different cars from the 914. The newer the car, the heavier it will be, and the less of a "sports car" it will be.
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 8 2005, 09:47 AM) |
i have a 74 914, and there is a 911 for sale--1974. no oil leaks on the 911 and what-not. they want 7900 for it. tell me all about 911s.... |
914= 2 seater gokart
911= 2.5 seater automobile
Right now I need 4 seats in an automobile. Maybe somday....
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 8 2005, 12:47 PM) |
i have a 74 914, and there is a 911 for sale--1974. no oil leaks on the 911 and what-not. they want 7900 for it. tell me all about 911s.... |
QUOTE (Mueller @ Aug 8 2005, 12:34 PM) | ||
sorry, they don't make single carb kits for the 911 if you can barely afford to fix the 914, forget about the 911... |
Hey, you can buy nice 911s for the cost of a /4 rebuild, as well..
M
i like the go-kart feel.
911s will be around for a long time.
914s will not.
a '74 with no leaks has no oil -- tread carefully.
911's didn't get the zinc-coated steel until 1976; early cars rust like 914's do.
'74 was the first of the short-hood cars. a 49-state '74 might be okay. early CIS definitely had its quirks tho.
just remember that all early 911's are $15,000.
all mid-year (SC-era) 911's are $25,000.
you will either pay it up front, or you will pay it within the first year or so of ownership.
there are several good books on buying used 911's; get one, read it.
i really like my 911 but i do not think it would be a good choice for you until you get more mechanical experience. they are not "do first, ask questions later" cars. and with the possible exception of window-winder handles, there will be no parts for them available at the local VW store. there will be damn few parts for them at the FLAPS. ANY FLAPS, with the possible exception of a few in SoCal where 911's are parked 3-deep at the grocery store. even those may not have anything older than the SC.
i buy oil at the Pep Boys - that's *it* for local sources. everything else comes from an online source. that means you have to learn to plan everything all the way through, including all the contingencies for things that might go wrong or that you will find "while you're in there," and have parts and tools lined up and ready to go -- or be willing to have the car parked a week until parts arrive.
they are very reliable and parts don't break very often. the other side of that coin: reliable parts are expensive when you need them.
QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Aug 8 2005, 12:08 PM) |
a '74 with no leaks has no oil -- tread carefully. 911's didn't get the zinc-coated steel until 1976; early cars rust like 914's do. '74 was the first of the short-hood cars. a 49-state '74 might be okay. early CIS definitely had its quirks tho. just remember that all early 911's are $15,000. all mid-year (SC-era) 911's are $25,000. you will either pay it up front, or you will pay it within the first year or so of ownership. there are several good books on buying used 911's; get one, read it. i really like my 911 but i do not think it would be a good choice for you until you get more mechanical experience. they are not "do first, ask questions later" cars. and with the possible exception of window-winder handles, there will be no parts for them available at the local VW store. there will be damn few parts for them at the FLAPS. ANY FLAPS, with the possible exception of a few in SoCal where 911's are parked 3-deep at the grocery store. even those may not have anything older than the SC. i buy oil at the Pep Boys - that's *it* for local sources. everything else comes from an online source. that means you have to learn to plan everything all the way through, including all the contingencies for things that might go wrong or that you will find "while you're in there," and have parts and tools lined up and ready to go -- or be willing to have the car parked a week until parts arrive. they are very reliable and parts don't break very often. the other side of that coin: reliable parts are expensive when you need them. |
QUOTE (lapuwali @ Aug 8 2005, 12:30 PM) |
As for the general 914 v 911 thing, you need to drive a 911. They're very different cars from the 914. The newer the car, the heavier it will be |
i can do curves around 55 limit twisties at over 70 all night long....
the 914 is fun, i really like it. I would really like to keep it for many years to come.
throttle-lift oversteer
thermal-reactor
im still sticking to the 914 like glue paste sticks to the inside of little kid's mouths.
QUOTE |
im still sticking to the 914 like glue paste sticks to the inside of little kid's mouths. |
911s shrink yer winky....
QUOTE (SEEMORE BUTZ @ Aug 8 2005, 03:32 PM) |
911s shrink yer winky... |
hey, a kid had to do what a kid had to do. it was soft...and cold, much like the other side of the pillow.
You gotta be kiddin...
$7900 sounds like a reasonable price, double, triple quadrruple check for rust!! An engine rebuild is cheap in comparison to major rust repairs on early 911's, If you can get a maintenance history for the car that will tell you if any updaters have been made to the engine, ie case savers installed etc.
I have both a 911 and a 914.. I actually like driving my 911 better than the 914, its hard to drive an old 911 fast, its a challenge, but when you get it right, its very rewarding..
Older 911s make good daily drivers. I commuted to NYC for about 3 years in a '69 911 I had very reliable..
Get a thorough PPI on the car.. it will be $250 well spent
$7900 sounds like a reasonable price, double, triple quadrruple check for rust!! An engine rebuild is cheap in comparison to major rust repairs on early 911's, If you can get a maintenance history for the car that will tell you if any updaters have been made to the engine, ie case savers installed etc.
I have both a 911 and a 914.. I actually like driving my 911 better than the 914, its hard to drive an old 911 fast, its a challenge, but when you get it right, its very rewarding..
Older 911s make good daily drivers. I commuted to NYC for about 3 years in a '69 911 I had very reliable..
Get a thorough PPI on the car.. it will be $250 well spent
$7900 sounds like a very reasonable price. Have a reputable Porsche shop do an complete buyers inspection withe a leakdown test on the motor - if you are lucky it has been rebuild properly and gotten the necessary modifications to make the 2,7 last. i.e chain tensioners etc... and have them check for rust in the chassis. If its clean you might be up to something great. If not run the other way.
I have 2 911s and a 914. They are very differnet animals - but both are great fun to drive.
Get it and join my club I'vegot274sandnowIdon'thavemoneyclub.com. I've got a 74 914-6 conversion and a 74 Carrera Lightweight. Money is overrated anyway. $7,900 doesn't sound bad. I just hope it isn't that babyshit brown they made in 74.
T.C.
Dr. Evil's conversion engine came from a 1974. Ask him about the pulled studs, etc. And that engine had been rebuilt, just not right.
2.7l 911 rebuild: Re-ring, re-bearing, basic freshed, valve seats, valves, and have the case modded, $3000.
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