Decided to tackle rebuilding the steering components of our 1970 914-6 this weekend. I have done a lot of searching and YouTube watching, but still have a number of questions:
Rebuilding the steering rack is a job best left to experts. Requires special measuring tools.
Yes your steering rack is the same as the stock 914 BUT at assembly in Porsche plant they used a the 911 rack with 914 shaft. The 911 rack had a different openings. Starting in 1973 both 911 and 914 used the same rack up to 1989.
The bottom picture, the gear and all pieces to hold it in place.
I seem to recall there were three types (sizes of gear) over time
There was also a “quick rack” kit out there for less turning of the steering wheel.
I rebuilt a few back in the day, using other racks for parts…lots of measuring.
We originally planned to offer a rebuild kit. Problem is there are 6 variants that can fit into the 914. Of these each has other variations. That and the tolerance on racks require perfect alignment and tension must be set correctly on the drag puck. There are several variations of the drag puck as well as the bearings and even yokes.
We could put together kits, but the problem is identifying every variant, and then have to walk the customer through the rebuild without some of the required tools.
This is why we do it as a service.
Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached image(s)
We vapor hone the castings and can provide Cerakote as an option.
Each shaft is polished, wear is checked and bushings honed to tolerances tighter than factory.
We reassemble with white lithium grease so you can see they have been completely cleaned.
The before and after. We have taken some that look like they were used as boat anchors and brought them back.
Our process is through. Sure you can disassemble and replace grease and bearings. They don't always go back together without binding.
Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached image(s)
We do sell the assembled eyebolts as well as the kit mentioned
https://914rubber.com/rebuilt-eye-bolt-set-1
Please note that you get $30 back if you send in your cores. or buy just the bushing and shafts shown above. The big difference is we plated the the eye bolts and have done the work for you.
Mark
Attached thumbnail(s)
Mark, what is the price to rebuild a 914 rack. I saw a couple different prices on the website. Thanks
I rebuilt the front suspension of my Bumblebee this year. Everything but the carrier and torsion bars new. Added turbo tie rods as part of the process. I sent my rack to 914Rubber for rebuild as part of this process. Very happy with the results.
I've rebuilt multiple rack and pinions over my automotive career.
I've done a 964 PS rack as I could find no-one local that I trusted.
Same with a rack out of a 93 Honda Prelude with 4-wheel steering.
Everyone and their uncle told me the Honda rack was the same for 2wh vs 4 wh.
They were all wrong!
It was significantly different and had I let someone else do it the 4wh steer would have never worked again!
By perusing this forum, I find that there are many different possible combinations for an early 914 rack.
Even with my extensive experience I'd just send mine to 914 rubber if I needed one...
Not worth the hassle if there are multiple variations.
Needs to go to someone who has seen and is aware of the pitfalls.
I think I get it now. Thanks!
Setting the tension seems important, but other than that I'm not seeing what is dissuading folks from doing this themself. What are the pitfalls that am I missing?
Clearly there are variations and difficulty in finding some of the parts. Most of the bushing are https://914rubber.com/search/?q=steering. The few odd bits I had to source that might help others:
YouTube video I found. I didn't see the Delrin piece in it though. This was solid metal. Delrin seems smoother, but maybe prone to wear faster?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjg82Gv_-Go
Here is a shot of ours after being disassembled and cleaned. I thought it might be of interest to others as it is a variation I have not seen in other threads or videos. The thrust ring is held in place by a threaded housing cover. There were no shims. I assume the tension is determined by how tight you screw it down.
Attached thumbnail(s)
You are correct. The internal housing has to be removed to clean it throughout. If not any solvents used will get trapped diluting new grease and contaminating new grease.
We refer to this as a type c rack.
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)