i plug in my dwell meter...
(-) goes to ground
(+) goes to neg side of coil
start car and look at meter
numbers constantly changing....try to hold probe to give steady connection....nothing.
i use the hold button to sample some numbers
112
42
23
and 1 (overflow)
changed out the condensor, and points looked okay when i put them in (new)
what gives?
point gap .013
Get a pertronix and be done with it.
last time i was told that i boutght one, but didnt fix my burning points issue, so my pertronix lasted maybe two weeks.
its not that easy...
burning points????
check voltage at pos coil terminal. when engine is warm voltage should be +/- 8V.
any more and you'll cook your coil and points.
fix: install ballast resistor.
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 18 2005, 09:02 AM) |
last time i was told that i boutght one, but didnt fix my burning points issue, so my pertronix lasted maybe two weeks. its not that easy... |
dude, your petronix replaces your points.. i must have missed something.....
Quote from another source.....
Power to the coil and to the Pertronics are two different things. If
using the original coil, then the ballast or resistance wire MUST remain
to the COIL (and tachometer) but NOT the Pertronics unit. It requires a
full 12 volts. The ballast or resistance wire is to protect the coil
only. A separate wire of full voltage pulled from before the ballast or
resistance wire should be routed to the electronic unit for proper
functioning. It's a little confusing in the directions - but that's
what they say.
The Pertronics and Crane units pull almost no power themselves, but
require full system voltage routed to them. Yes, I and many others have
run the Pertronics directly from the + terminal of the coil on the Fords
which have a resistance wire - but it is not recommended that way from
the factory. The reason (they say) is that during high loads on the
electrical system, the voltage may fall below the minimum required for
the electronic unit to function, and the engine misfires, mysteriously
quits or won't start.
I have had this happen (almost) when driving at night and the charging
system wasn't up-to-par due to a bad ground I later found. The engine
started sputtering and missing when I accelerated from the last 2 stop
signs to my house. It went from mildly missing to hardly running in
about 1/2 mile. Fortunate I was so close to home. If I had a piece of
wire I could have jumped directly to the battery to keep it going a
while longer at full voltage. This is why the unit should be at full
voltage in the first place.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_timing/914_timing.htm
QUOTE (bondo @ Aug 18 2005, 10:11 AM) | ||
You've got bigger problems then, and setting your dwell isn't going to fix them either. Do you have a 6 volt coil or something? |
wtf? this isnt that hard man.....
buy a pertronix....
2 wire hookup.
and it has a wide voltage range it can work on...
how many ohms is your coil? 1.5? 3.0??
why are you still messing with points????
BTW...Petronixs doan like to have the ignition on w/o running the engine. Let's the magic smoke out.
What ever happened to the 3.6 conversion???
QUOTE (SEEMORE BUTZ @ Aug 18 2005, 01:07 PM) |
What ever happened to the 3.6 conversion??? |
does your dwell meter have a switch for 4/8 cyl and 6cyl? if so, is the switch set for 4/8?
k
yes its set for 4cyl...
i've done this before with good results...
yes i'm still on points.
today i'm forced to get rid of my good computer crap, so if you all want any of it, pm me.
athlon 2600+ cpu + asus mobo.
etc etc.
at this point it runs good, points are backed out a bit...runs good.
QUOTE (SEEMORE BUTZ @ Aug 18 2005, 04:07 PM) |
BTW...Petronixs doan like to have the ignition on w/o running the engine. Let's the magic smoke out. What ever happened to the 3.6 conversion??? |
as soon as i get one for $150 shipped, it will be in my car...
i have zilch money.
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