This is what caused the breakdown in Kelowna. Put the clutch in, backed up a hill, when to shift to neutral, pedal to the floor. Clevis spread and poped off the clutch pedal arm.
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Tryed to straighten it and the arm broke. Took it over to a friend of my buddys daughter and he happened to have a full welding shop at home. He tigged it back together. Even painted it. Looked better than new.
Got home with the car and took the son for a ride and the same thing happened again. Bent and poped off again. This time I took the one off the 73 so I could drive. So far so good. But why did this happen?
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I'm wondering if I need to replace the pin part with a cotter pin of the right size with a couple washers on the sides?
The clevis pin had to have worked out of the hole to do that. I would have to look at an assembly to see which side is locked by the barrel tang (or whatever you want to call it).
EDIT: Now I remember...the barrel tang and pin are one piece....somehow it had to have backed out of the one side to pull on one side of the clevis.
???????
It may also have to do with how your pedal freeplay is adjusted and the "stop" on the pedal board. You may be over stressing the cable/clevis/cable tube in the back.
P
Had that happen on my 6, the hole in the pedal assy arm had elongated, cocking the pin in the hole. Welded up the hole and redrilled, problem gone. Good luck.
Don
My money says Don got it right. Check the hole.
QUOTE (DonTraver @ Aug 18 2005, 09:31 AM) |
Had that happen on my 6, the hole in the pedal assy arm had elongated, cocking the pin in the hole. Welded up the hole and redrilled, problem gone. Good luck. Don |
I didn't see a bushing while in there (hard to see anything while down there) , so that could be the problem.
Bruce, Did you add the missing pedal board?
CCLINCLEVISANDBUTTHEAD
Yes, first thing I did once home.
I had a Engman one here, sitting looking pretty. Now it looks good in the car.
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