So, I just got myself a nice money pit 1970 914. One of the issues is that the front right handle for the roof has been ripped off, along with the anchor. Can I safely "glue" it back ? If so, with what and how ? Oh, and hello everyone, been reading very nice threads here.
Try JB Weld.
I might try a two part epoxy glue, something that will flow a bit. Make sure all is clean prior.
Yes you could fix it with epoxy (west system or system 3 will work). Make sure you weigh the mix exactly and that it cures in a warm environment. I would then add a reinforcements patch of epoxy and fiberglass cloth over it to make sure it holds. You need to check the adjustment on the handles and also make sure you fit the clamp into the slot so you don’t over stress the fiberglass.
You might also check around for a whole new targa top. I think you should be able to find one. Might be easier then chasing a repair and hoping it holds.
Glue will never hold it 'really'. You would need a big patch to give it any meaningful strength. I would create a metal plate with the attachment point and glue it to the roof with maybe 8 inches of extra surface area if I wanted to trust it, but even then I wouldn't consider it a permanent fix.
The roof is fiberglass, so you might try a polyester resin.
And immediately start looking for a replacement....
So many 914s have turned to dust and those roofs are pretty tough. Probably more of them around than cars for them.
Yea, next time you meet up with some 914 guys, ask around if anyone has an extra top hanging around their garage. You might be pleasantly surprised.
Yeah, already looking, but 914s are not exactly common up north in Quebec and I'd like to avoid paying too much for shipping.
Instead of a bolt, maybe you could fix the plate with some countersunk fasteners (along with the epoxy), maybe even rivets. Done carefully the countersunk head could fairly easily be “hidden” with some textured paint.
Not perfect but less obvious than a bolt head.
There is even a technique called “double flush riveting” used in aircraft construction that produces a flush head on both sides. There are also double flush pull rivets.
I would epoxy in first, allow it to cure, then drill the composite sandwich and st the rivets. This will give you a better rivet set than trying to do it with wet epoxy in the joint IMHO
That fiberglass repair should be scarfed. Any boat shops in your area that you could take it to?
https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Might-Repair-Ounce-Gray/dp/B001446LKO/ref=asc_df_B001446LKO/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312061157224&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16217794447739545713&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026438&hvtargid=pla-589027873117&mcid=c45c8c40beea306cb58bb5273418a7e5&ref=&adgrpid=57630531050&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItee07ePLgwMVEFVHAR2TzQCdEAQYASABEgIPEPD_BwE&th=1
This is the stuff I use when I need to fix a fiberglass part and require strength.
Nothing else like it in the world!
A 2 oz kit will work for that repair.
I've always bought it in quarts, and they are DAMNED expensive today!
After it dries you can actually thread it.
It can go on UNDERWATER! It's boat shit...
The catalyst SMOKES when you open it!
Marine Tex is bad assed!
I'm with the other posters, find another top.
If you have to fix that (even temporarily) use the Marine Tex.
Adding to @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=15674 comments about countersunk fasteners, check out T-nuts at your local hardware store. If you were not concerned about a concours top, T-nuts would work very well and with a very little counter sinking of the base of the T-nut, a thin coat of bondo and textured paint, the repair would be good.
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