My ignition switch is very flakey, and I want to remove it as part of the general re-wiring. It looks like I have to remove the column itself to get at it. True?
I'm considering switching to a dash mounted switch, like the 914-6. I presume a 911 switch will do here just fine. I'm also wondering about steering columns. Is the 914-6 column just a 911 column? Will a 911 column just bolt in? (This is a '71, btw). I presume real 914-6 columns are pretty rare (if they're not just early 911/912 columns).
I would be interested in this information as well.
I should have done this before asking, but the Haynes manual covers this, if sketchily. You have to pull the steering wheel, then the horn ring, then the stalk switch(es), and the ignition switch is right there.
Looking at my 912, it has bolts in approx. the right places, but I can't tell if I could bolt its column up or not. The column switches and cover may be easier to adapt to the 914 column.
The steering column is similar, but not identical to the 911 part if I recall correctly.
--DD
the "protective tube" (what we'd call the column, i guess) has a 914 part number. *most* of the stuff inside or bolted to the column is 901 part numbers.
i couldn't tell you detail differences tho...
I used a pre 74 911 column , cut off all the 911 mounts , also cut the 914 4 bolt mount off and welded it to the 911 column , worked fine.
QUOTE |
You have to pull the steering wheel, then the horn ring, then the stalk switch(es), and the ignition switch is right there. |
The Bird Board has a step by step procedure. Had to do it on my 74 about 5 years ago. Need to do it on my 73 soon.
R&Ring the switch is not bad to do. Disconnect your battery, pull steering wheel, wiper and turn signal switches. behind the dash you can feel the back of the switch/plug - pull out the plug (this takes a little contortionism). There is a little plate in front of the ignition switch which is held in with a screw, remove the screw and plate, insert key into ignition and turn to unlock the steering wheel and remove the switch by pulling it straight back. Installation is reverse of removal.
QUOTE (BMITCHELL @ Sep 6 2005, 07:43 AM) |
The Bird Board has a step by step procedure. Had to do it on my 74 about 5 years ago. Need to do it on my 73 soon. |
i just did this last night. took me about an hour, and that was not knowing what in the hell i was doing...
just keep taking sh-t off until you can remove the whole assembly. to get the ignition switch out is easy, just a little phillips screw from behind and it comes out. getting the key module out is a little more tricky (it requires putting a small blade into a little hidden whole to depress a retaining spring) but it doesn't sound that you're going that far.
as for replacing the whole shebang with a 911 part or as to the availability of a 914-6 part, well, i'm sure interested in this.
n
Does the $413 cost of the 911 ignition lock/tumbler assembly interest you, or is it the pretty extensive cutting, fitting, and welding of the column, dash, and brackets? The early non-lock switches are virtually unobtainable. I had a dozen or more, and a P-car experienced locksmith couldn't make ONE good one out of all the parts. Unless you can buy the whole setup at a VERY good price, the effort is hardly worth it. The Cap'n
Looking at the Bird Board writeup, the system on my car is very different. This is also confused by the PO hacking in this area. On my car, there's one plug that looks very like the relay board plugs, which is attached to the lower section of the dash using a tongue and slot clip. This is off to the passenger side of the column. Separating this plug took a lot of effort.
I'll follow up once I've removed the ignition switch itself, so at least there's some photos of what the '70-'71 setup looks like.
Cap'n, thanks for the reality check on the OEM Porsche keyswitch. If I can't get one used that works for a reasonable price, I'm not above using one of the Lucas keyswitches I have on hand. Most of these require a separate button for the starter, which I also have no problem with.
I'm thinking adapting or making a new "cover" for the steering column that doesn't have a keyswitch hole is the hot ticket.
REALITY CHECK 2! Why not just fix what's wrong? YOU complain about the DPO. What about the guy who buys your car next? Kluging it just decreases the value, increases the hassle, and simply makes no sense. The parts you need are readily available, and the effort involved is probably gonna be less, anyway. The Cap'n
Because I have no interest in trying to find a complete OEM harness that's still in worthwhile shape. I could simply replace the keyswitch. I could also simply find there's nothing wrong with the switch itself, just the wiring to it. I like the idea of a separate switch/button setup, as I've used this many times in the past very successfully. "Doing it right" uses my definition of "right", which isn't necessarily the same as the OEM definition of "right".
My car will be crushed and buried with me, so no one will ever have cause to curse me, as a DAPO.
QUOTE (lapuwali @ Sep 6 2005, 12:02 PM) |
My car will be crushed and buried with me, so no one will ever have cause to curse me, as a DAPO. |
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