Another newbie question. Just bought a 73 2.0 and took it to a local Porsche mechanic to check. All is well, but he says I need a new fuel tank, as it's full of rust. Enough to clog injectors, so mus tdo something. Porsche doesn't make them any more, but he knew of a place that 'rebuilds' them @ about $400.
Ouch! Ideas?
$75 to take your tank to a radiator shop and get it boiled and coated.
Do that. Splurge on a can of rustoleum satin-black to repaint the outside.
Replace the copper screen while you're in there.
Oh, and re-tap the holes for the expansion tank.
Personal comment: When I took my tank out, I got a full tea-cup size mound of rust powder out of it. Your's is probably that bad, but not worse.
G.
Thanks, guys.
I think POR-15 makes a kit for reconditioning, cleaning, and sealing the fuel tank. If it isn't too far gone. . .
Did the POR-15 dance... PITA getting the sealer out: the tank is just shaped wrong for this to be done easily...or my bench was
It's worth the $$$ to take it to a radiator shop.
Me again. Since I plan to race the beast, how about just putting in a fuel cell. New, supposed to be safer, and a bunch cheaper and won't rust. Drawbacks?
If you're tank was well rusted, it probably sat for a long time. Be sure to change the fuel filter and check the entire fuel system for leaks. Change any old or weathered fuel lines.
>$75 to take your tank to a radiator shop and get it boiled and coated.
Where? I called about 5 places in the San Jose area and the price ranged from $125 to $145. My tank is a little rusty but doesn't look too bad so I was just going to get it boiled and coated instead of replacing it.
How much do good used tanks go for? I assume these are probably fairly rust free but not coated. How much does the coating help anyways?
Also, I will be converting to AN fittings. I'll document they way I do it. My first plan was to modify a AN-6 adapter on my lathe so that it fits in like the original tube (after making the hole in the aluminum nut bigger). This would probably be a good way for someone that doesn't want to remove/refinish their tank.
Then I figured I would tap the tank with a 1/4-NPT tap. This should work pretty well and will give about a 0.300" opening that is close to the size of 3/8" hard line / AN-6 hose.
Now, since I have to refinish the tank anyway, I'll probably just fill it with water, then weld on a couple AN-6 or AN-8 fittings. Its been hard to find information on just what size fitting I should go with. It seems that the 3/8" hard line (and an AN-6 fitting) should work for up to about 400HP, but I assume it will handle more HP with a high pressure fuel injection pump mounted by the tank.
Jonathan
I got a cheap fuel cell, $50.00 8 gal plastic drag cell with foam, but the fab work might cost more than the gas tank refurb and you loose your fuel gauge if its a street car...
>8 gal plastic drag cell with foam
Fab works no big deal. I'd do it myself. I don't even see why you'd have to lose the fuel guage. The cell in my 510 has one. The problem is I don't want to lose capacity.
Now, that I think about, since I've got a V8 and don't have a front trunk due to the radiator, maybe I should try to fit a cell in the combined front trunk (what's left after still allowing airflow for the radiator) / gas tank area. Of course I would have to reinforce the strut towers but that shouldn't be too tough.
Jonathan
My fuel tank developed a small leak and had rust at bottom portion from sitting for years. Used the Por 15 restoration kit (about $50) and it worked as advertised. If a used tank would have been available in my area, that would have been my choice.
BTW, I run a 400hp v8 and use the stock hose with electric pump in engine bay feeding a carb. No fuel starvation problems in the 16 months its been on road.
John
Howard,
As long as your tank doesn't leak,It can be cleaned and resealed.
I did the one in my 6r w/a kit from Eastwood for about $40.00.
Just follow the dir's,piece of cake.
Ron
> and there's a limit to how fast you can suck a fluid through a hole.
That's what I was thinking. I was planning on using a -8 line to the input of the fuel pump and -6 after that. My current engine is only ab out 300HP but my next will be about 450 or so.
the 8 gal should last for at least 3-4 laps!!!
I would like to see that AN conversion if someone does it. I currently have -6 hard lines to the back 90 elbows then steel braided flex lines to the F/I. I just have rubber pushed on the hard lines at the front. The pump is mounted by the big access hole on the outside with a filter in the tank area. Due to the barbed fittings on the pump I haven't decided how to run everything. It is currently all rubber hoses. I would like to go AN up front as well. I have welded used motorcycle tanks I used an inert gas filling it to avoid blowing up. I am not sure about this though as I have coated the tank already.
I recently went through this same thing this summer. $90 at my local performance radiator dealer/repair shop (Everett WA, they seem to do most all the dip work for the area) When it came out, no rust inside and no paint outside. I didnt screw with coating the inside just keep it full and DRIVE it.
>When it came out, no rust inside and no paint outside.
The first place I talked to I asked if it would come repainted on the outside and they said that only the inside was affected so if the paint on the outside is OK (it is) I dont' have to worry about it.
>just keep it full and DRIVE it.
Those seem mutually exclusive.
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