LED taillights!
Please read first before voting. Post if you would like more detailed info before voting.
This is a project I started over 2 years ago, and want to get some made as an upgrade to other members’ cars. I’m working on costs so don’t ask. I want to see what style people would like.
All styles require you to make some alterations to the housing. Style A and B require fairly extensive modifications to the housing (cutting out terminaland will require a new connector. The cost would be higher for style A since there are more LEDs and more soldering time. But the advantage of A is that the light from the LEDs will fill the whole back of the lens. Style C will need the least modification to the housing. You will need to add connectors to the wires that are already in the housing to connect to the circuit board. You will also need to shave off a little from the screw “towers” so the lens will get back to the right position.
The squares on the left are LEDs, the mumbo jumbo in the middle is the circuit and the circles on the left are The LEDs for the reverse lights
I have some pics on the Upgrades section on my site (link to site below).
Nice! Any idea when they'll be ready?
BTW, I couldn't find pics on your site. Or the Upgrades section for that matter. Post a link?
Hmmmmmm, why would someone want to do this in the first place? What is wrong with the regular bulbs? Am I missing something?
What about using a single 1 or 5 watt Luxeon emitter with optics for the backup light? Or for that matter, just a single red 1 watt or if thats not enough, maybe 5 for the brake, turn, and running lights?
Those pirhana LEDs (which I'm guessing you are using) should work great, but like you say, lots of soldering... seems like fewer devices would be easier to work with.
-Tony
QUOTE (smooth_eddy @ Oct 2 2005, 02:00 AM) |
Hmmmmmm, why would someone want to do this in the first place? What is wrong with the regular bulbs? Am I missing something? |
GE as in General Electric Lighting has an LED strip that can be cut to length for easy install. I saw this about a year ago as it was marketed to the sign industry.
If youre driving it right they won't see anything but taillights........
Oh yeah, mine is yellow
QUOTE (TonyAKAVW @ Oct 2 2005, 01:01 AM) |
What about using a single 1 or 5 watt Luxeon emitter with optics for the backup light? Or for that matter, just a single red 1 watt or if thats not enough, maybe 5 for the brake, turn, and running lights? Those pirhana LEDs (which I'm guessing you are using) should work great, but like you say, lots of soldering... seems like fewer devices would be easier to work with. -Tony |
On Paul's setup: I'd think one would want the brake lights to be considerably brighter than the taillights, so fewer tail LEDs and/or more brake LEDs seems a useful thing.
As for LED "bulbs" in general, this place: http://www.superbrightleds.com sells ready made automototive bulb assemblies using LEDs. Four 24 LED bulbs for the tail ($13 ea), plus two 30 LED bulbs for the brakes ($15 ea), plus two 12 LED white bulbs for the reversing lights ($7 ea), and for $100 you have all LED tail lights w/o hacking up the OEM housing in any way.
They also have amber in case you have Euro lenses, and they sell a solid-state flasher unit that will flash the LED turn signal bulbs (the stock resistance flasher won't work). The solid state flasher is also available at most FLAPS (and will also work with filament bulbs).
QUOTE (Gint @ Oct 2 2005, 05:31 AM) | ||
Because anything that can make a 914 MORE visible is a good thing. How many times has someone not seen you while you're driving a 914 where you suspect they would have in another larger car? Happens to me all the time in a 914. Almost every time I go out. |
You have my vote and my money when these start production.
QUOTE (jimtab @ Oct 2 2005, 10:38 AM) |
What needs to happen is to remove the distractions to paying attention....a good start would be NO CELL PHONES while the car is moving...damn little is that important. |
smooth_eddy: "Hmmmmmm, why would someone want to do this in the first place?"
Answer: because he can.
I voted for "A" because it's the style I was working on (got all the stuff minus the perf boards) before I got sidetracked with other stuff. I'd planned on have them sequence when the blinker came on, kind of like the old Cougars........always thought that was cool as hell when I was a kid.
When I rebuilt my electical, I made the whole brake/tail lamp assy. light up for brakeand turning. The running lights use the original position. i prefer to have the whole back of my car light up rather than 2 very dim lights come on. If somebody isn't watching you can hardly tell between running lights and brake lights. I hit the brakes and it is like a big neon sign. I would like to do the same to my front turn signals.
Chris
QUOTE (jd74914 @ Oct 2 2005, 10:48 AM) | ||
As of yesterday in CT you cannot talk on a cell phone and drive at the same time |
Gint,
Here are some pictures http://www.pelicanparts.com/MotorCity/smrz914/electricalUpgrades.htm#LEDTaillights
As for when they will be ready, well that depends on how I'm going to get funding. I have exhausted my funds for this project and I'm paying for school myself now so all my money goes to that.
smooth_eddy,
The reason for doing this is as Buzzard1 sayed, I can. There are advantages to using LEDs though. They turn on faster then incandescent bulbs, you can use clear lenses since I can get LEDs that have red light (orange blinker will also be available), and there is a cool factor. It makes me happy that I can use what I learned and reasearched and do something productive with it. There is still an issue of with the blinker relay but there is a solution for that out there, it's just a matter of finding it.
TonyAKAVW,
I would be more than happy to design a board for the Luxeon LEDs, but I think they produce a lot of heat and require a aluminum core circuit board for heat. I'll look up more info when the manufacturer site is up.
lapuwali,
The circuit is designed to run the LEDs at a lower brightness for the running lights and then full when you hit the brakes or the blinker is on.
I don't like the LED replacement bulbs, I have heard that they just don't produce enough light to make them worth changing out. Only what I have heard, I have no direct experience with those replacement bulbs.
effutuo101,
The arrays can be made to turn on any way you want. You can even arrange the LEDs to say something. The first test LED array I build, I felt like the LEDs were to bright when the brake lights were on.
these are great. now if we can get something for the front turn buckets too!
had some toothless hag scream at me today to signal just as she almost hit me (i was signaling by the way) but it goes to show our front lights are rather dim.
fronts and rears for me!!!!
QUOTE (jimtab @ Oct 2 2005, 09:38 AM) | ||||
Gint, I don't think the answer is more lights. After all look at all the cars with DRLs now and the dipshits still run into each other. What needs to happen is to remove the distractions to paying attention....a good start would be NO CELL PHONES while the car is moving...damn little is that important. Also, no shaving, eyebrow plucking, complicated eating and drinking, watching tv/dvd, reading, beating the kids/wife/pets/etc. Just pay attention. My .02 |
Ok I'll start working on the front ones too. I'll grab the front buckets next time I'm home.
Thank you for your comment. I feel that we could probably build a resistor in line to reduce the brightness. I got caught behind an ambulance today with LED's. They flickered twice before coming on full bright. It really caught my attention. Something to think about.
Chris
I like the LEDs.
Just a thought...any way to add an additional diffuser in front of the rear lens to "soften" the distinct pattern of the LEDs? Are you making the LED panels for the turn signals as well?
Paul,
Let me know if you find a combo stop and turn board...
effutuo101,
That is a great idea with the initial blinking but the implementation would be difficult. I think that Scions have that feature on the high mount stop light. I threw around the idea of building arrays that would be run off a PIC chip that is programmable. That would open up a whole bunch of doors but I would be starting from scratch pretty much. Possibly a future thing. I really want to get something working right now.
Let me try and clear some things up with visuals. I hope this helps.
Pic 1
This is that back of you housing removed from the car.
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Pic 2
This is the inside of the housing with all the stock guts
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Pic 3
Here are the stock guts partly removed from the housing. In the picture above you can see the screws that hold it in.
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pic 4
Here is the LED array in the housing.
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QUOTE (jd74914 @ Oct 2 2005, 09:48 AM) | ||
As of yesterday in CT you cannot talk on a cell phone and drive at the same time |
Pic 5
This is a detail shot of the major housing modification that you have to do.
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And another shot of the same mod
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OK last pic for now.
This is where the mod is for all arrays. You need to trim the top of the towers (green lines) so that the lens seats properly on the housing. This holds the printed circuit board in place too.
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QUOTE (skline @ Oct 2 2005, 10:23 AM) |
Santa Monica has a law against phones while driving, I wish more cities/states would adopt that law. It really is a distraction that will eventually kill thousands. |
The Luxeons do produce a lot of heat. I would think the 1 watt LEDs can probalby get away with a double sided PCB using lots of vias under the package. Keep as much of the back of the PCB a copper ground plane and that should be okay. the 5 watt emitters probably require some more effort. Maybe for a future product idea.. But you could potentially machine out a rather large hole in the PCB and a matching aluminum heatsink that protrudes through it from the back and bolts on the the board. 5 watts from a single LED is a heck of a lot of light. You could probalby make a cluster of 20 of them to replace the headlights. Unfortunately, a set of those would set you back several hundred dollars
-Tony
I know they are working on LEDs that can replace headlights. Some Audi's already have LED driving lights but they arn't nearly as bright as headlights need to be. Anyways back on topic.
Racing applications are a possibility but I don't think you would save that much weight (but i'll make a special set for URY914). The guts of the taillights arn't the heavy part.
Here's something you may want to consider since you already have the circuit figured out.
As I said earlier, I was looking into doing the very same thing. Since I'd already had a little CAD experience I was looking at single sided copper clad perf boards, and etching kits...
Etching kits [one source I looked at]:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=445&item=TEK-5&type=store
You simply create the grid pattern of the perf board, layout the circuit that you've already figured out, print (the "printed" part is the copper you want to retain on the perf board [CADsoft freeware works]) onto the peel and stick perf board paper circuit paper, and soak in the etch solution.
Another site:
http://www.bcae1.com/circuitboardetch.htm
Good luck!
-Kevin
None for me, my 914 is basically stock and am keeping it that way.
mike
QUOTE |
Here's something you may want to consider since you already have the circuit figured out. As I said earlier, I was looking into doing the very same thing. Since I'd already had a little CAD experience I was looking at single sided copper clad perf boards, and etching kits... Etching kits [one source I looked at]: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/cate...EK-5&type=store You simply rolleyes.gif create the grid pattern of the perf board, layout the circuit that you've already figured out, print (the "printed" part is the copper you want to retain on the perf board [CADsoft freeware works]) onto the peel and stick perf board paper circuit paper, and soak in the etch solution. Another site: http://www.bcae1.com/circuitboardetch.htm Good luck! -Kevin |
QUOTE |
QUOTE (smooth_eddy @ Oct 2 2005, 12:00 AM) Hmmmmmm, why would someone want to do this in the first place? What is wrong with the regular bulbs? Am I missing something? I was curious about this too a while ago and the explanation I got was that the standard bulbs take about 200ms to reach brightness. the LEDs are instant (almost?) and this results in 20' extra for the driver in back of you to stop once seeing your lights. |
QUOTE |
LEDs turn on instantly, reducing braking response time by 2/10th of a second. That means 5 extra meters of stopping distance at highway speeds. LEDs have better viewability in poor weather. And, because they last 100 times longer than an incandescent bulb, outliving their host vehicle, they can be installed and forgotten. The result? Greater peace of mind for the customer! |
QUOTE (smrz914 @ Oct 3 2005, 03:36 PM) | ||
I think it's a good idea for prototyping but not for production. It also leaves the copper exposed to the air and will oxidize. I think there is already plenty of oxidation on a 914 and I don't need to add anything. The boards I would like to get will look green from the coating they put on it (except where I will solder the components. |
QUOTE (smrz914 @ Oct 3 2005, 03:38 AM) |
The guts of the taillights arn't the heavy part. |
QUOTE (smrz914 @ Oct 2 2005, 03:53 PM) |
You can even arrange the LEDs to say something. |
QUOTE |
I take it that the housings are the heavy part, then? I know this would be a lot of work, but it might be worthwhile for those who want to lighten their cars as much as possible: mount some round LED arrays in a lightweight fiberglass mount that replaces the taillight housing, a la the 911R taillights (which of course were originally done with bulbs). |
QUOTE |
Now there's a product you could get rich with! Throw in a cct that makes the left side an F and the right a U. Great for tailgaters. |
QUOTE (smrz914 @ Oct 4 2005, 11:09 PM) | ||
The housing and the lenses are the heavy part. You could get the round taillights that the trucks use and fit them to a fiberglass housing. Anything is possible with time and effort. I don't think my roomates would like me to start laying up fiberglass in the apartment. I have done fiberglass and carbon fiber work. Maybe i'll try to come up with something when I'm home this winter and have a garage to work in. If people want. I could make a special batch of housings for the LEDs. I'll think about it. |
My mom works for LumiLED. As a matter of fact she just sent me a red array (18) of the "Super Flux" LED's. It fits perfectly in the 3rd brake light from "Engman". It looks like your using the Super Flux also, But what are you using for the Reverse light?
Here's a pic of the array.
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Here's one lit up by a 9 volt battery.
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Here's the last one...
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QUOTE (montoya 73 2.0 @ Mar 17 2006, 09:33 PM) |
My mom works for LumiLED. As a matter of fact she just sent me a red array (18) of the "Super Flux" LED's. It fits perfectly in the 3rd brake light from "Engman". It looks like your using the Super Flux also, But what are you using for the Reverse light? |
QUOTE (scotty b @ Mar 19 2006, 07:20 AM) | ||
How much do those run and did you have to make any mods to the housing or LED strip? I have 2 of the Engman (Vette) lights and would like this on both. As for the thread at hand I prefer style A. Any rough idea on a price yet? |
speaking of brakelights, i installed a 3rd brakelight today on the 14'. Only spent like less than $10 on the LED bar. here's a pic:
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dangz!...I want some if they aren't too expensive...
I've been doing a lot of LED work recently and that's a good job
I know this is probably overkill in a big way, but has anybody thought of installing LED's in place of the rear 911 reflector if so equiped by the PO.
I was thinking wall of lights for that third break light.
If you blind them they usually swerve so at least won't hit you?
Not only a third brake light but you could scroll text across there.
What would really be cool is to have a small LED panel that fits inside the existing light bulb enclosure, with a bayonette type connector to connect to the existing bulb socket. Should keep the cost low, installation would be a breeze.
Spoke
What ever happened with these?
Just some food for thought here. When I was selling the LEDs the bidest issue was that the LEDs didn't draw enough load, so they blinked too fast. If you put in a low load relay they worked normally. You might want to think about building in a load resistor so they function normally with a stock relay.
This is definitely something I would add to my car. Nothing has become of it?
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