is it 27 or 35 or some number in the middle?
i've seen 35 before.....
FI mark is 27 or 28degrees.....
which is it...help please.
b
Yes, somewhere in there is good.
No, really... Pick a number and stick with it. If you're using the stock distributor, the stock number is a good choice. If you're using an aftermarket one, then you'll have to mess with it until you get a result you're happy with.
--DD
*cough*
according to the PP tech article, carb timing is on 35degrees.....
seems a bit too far....oh and from what i understand, the vacuum connection on the carb is useless, so i am just leaving vaccuum retard disconnected.
could I *go* up there (to the fat fan blade, which is i think 35 degrees) without ping...?
b
what dizzy?
i run my carb'd car at 29.
it varies....by dizzy
i am running the stock 2.0 FI dizzy.....
i know that 050s and 009s suck
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Oct 13 2005, 06:41 PM) |
i am running the stock 2.0 FI dizzy..... i know that 050s and 009s suck |
have you seen the inside of a 009?
i've heard they dont have a sufficient advance curve for what i need....
single carbs work well so far....anything bigger and i'll go with dual IDFs....
AAron, we're straying from the topic.....27 or 35.....
My carb'd 1911 ran great with an 050. I'd spare the stock 2.0 and save it if you have an 050 to use.
And there are too many factors that will affect how much advance you're going to use on a carb'd motor. Start at 27 and see how much advance you can use before it causes "issues".
Try it. See what works. You'll probably learn something while you're at it.
well okay....
i would run 27 without question...but if i push it farther, how do i know if i'm pinging if i cant hear it?
loss of power?
this thing ran like a raped ape (compared to my tired 2.0) when at 35 degrees. when i used the timing light, i saw the wide fan blade thing marking the 35 degree mark....
Mycar has had dual carbs (I know.its not a SINGLE, but I'm getting by) since I got it 15 years ago with the stock 2.0 diz.
I had 009(s) for years, then 050. These were before mexican manufacturing- well made but I just wore'emout. Now I have a Mallory.
ALL OF EM, Ihave static timed to 10 or 11 degrees BTDC.
And that is pretty much what jake recommends, 'cept using the springs in the Mallory to get to max advance quicker and stop advance beyond 28 BTDC. That setup is really for dual webers- When mine is set that way it seems to have more power at high RPMs than when advance was goingall the way to36 or whatever the other units allowed. Mine hops up to 28 by 3200 rpm and it goes great!
see...how do i set static timing?
I was always confused by that....
set using a protractor?
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Oct 13 2005, 08:32 PM) |
see...how do i set static timing? I was always confused by that.... set using a protractor? |
aaron, i didnt grow from a tree man....
I know about adjustable timing lights....i do not own one. nor can i purchase one right now.
if i time to 27 total advance, okay....I can do that.
if i time to 35 total advance, okay....I can do that too.
I can compile programs and configure cyrus and imap.
I simply asked where, not how to time. Initial timing, or static timing is done with the engine at TDC on cylinder one. The advance is then adjusted until the difference between the rotor tip and the TDC point(assuming to be the notch on the dizzy) reads 10-12 degrees.....
I'll just do 27 degrees....
b
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Oct 14 2005, 03:00 AM) |
...static timing is done with the engine at TDC on cylinder one. |
okay...
i'll just time to the FI mark then....
worked fine before, it'll work fine now.
b
The Pelican article, as I recall, talked about either 30 degrees or 32--not 35. It was also using an aftermarket distributor. Since you're using the stock distributor, set the timing the stock way-- 27 deg BTDC at 3500 RPM with the vacuum hoses (if any) disconnected and plugged.
--DD
thanks DD
b
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