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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ rust in the rocket panel area
Posted by: bender Nov 4 2005, 03:04 PM
guys do you think its a serious rust??
and i know i need to buy the rocket panel , do i need more parts for it?
thanks a lot
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Posted by: bender Nov 4 2005, 03:05 PM
more pic
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Posted by: bender Nov 4 2005, 03:05 PM
last one
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Posted by: BMartin914 Nov 4 2005, 03:15 PM
That IS serious rust. That is your longitudinal - provides structural ridgidity for the car. Any rust behind the rocker panel is not good and that rust is bad.
Posted by: Rand Nov 4 2005, 05:08 PM
The passenger side is usually worse, so be sure to check over there thoroughly.
Posted by: Verruckt Nov 4 2005, 05:13 PM
I think i see about an 1/8" of bondo in that third picture? I hope that it wasn't rigged up so it was hidden. That would suck. But yes, pretty serious rust.
Posted by: boboli914@att.net Nov 4 2005, 05:30 PM
Yes it is serious. If you can weld and read it can be fixed. between this forum and Pelican Parts you can get detailed instructions on how to replace it. You will even beable to find the replacement parts. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. 
Posted by: bender Nov 4 2005, 05:40 PM
| QUOTE (boboli914@att.net @ Nov 4 2005, 03:30 PM) |
| Yes it is serious. If you can weld and read it can be fixed. between this forum and Pelican Parts you can get detailed instructions on how to replace it. You will even beable to find the replacement parts. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. |
which parts do you think i need??
thanks alot
Posted by: Andyrew Nov 4 2005, 05:50 PM
See all that red stuff?
Needs to be replaced with shiney stuff.... 
You can only tell once you grind down all the rust and get to solid metal. Once you do that, then you should be able to know what needs to be reaplaced....
Currently I bet one cubic foot from the hole needs to be replaced.
GL
Its doable.
Posted by: Rouser Nov 4 2005, 06:02 PM
| QUOTE (bender @ Nov 4 2005, 07:40 PM) |
| which parts do you think i need?? thanks alot |
Best you click http://www.restoration-design.com/index.html, select 914 Chassis & Exterior, and possibly consider left & rights of items 1, 2, & 6, plus anything else you'll find cancer-ridden upon deep inspection.
There's a whole lot more you haven't seen.
Posted by: bender Nov 5 2005, 04:12 PM
| QUOTE (Rouser @ Nov 4 2005, 04:02 PM) | ||
Best you click http://www.restoration-design.com/index.html, select 914 Chassis & Exterior, and possibly consider left & rights of items 1, 2, & 6, plus anything else you'll find cancer-ridden upon deep inspection. There's a whole lot more you haven't seen. |
so by the pictures u saw u think for the roket panel area the items u just mentioned it will solve the problem?
it needs to cut the steel out and weld the new parts???
also do you think i need also the rocket clamshells?
or the chassis stiffening kit ?
thanks a lot
Posted by: bender Nov 5 2005, 04:17 PM
the chassis stiffening kit
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Posted by: McMark Nov 5 2005, 04:17 PM
You have a significant job in front of you. If can be done, step one if to stop driving the car. Step two is to start stripping parts off of it and using a wire wheel to strip back paint and rust scale to see how bad the problem really is. Finding a good drivers side section off of another car shouldn't be a problem. The passenger side is so common that used replacement panels are hard to find. If you can find one that's monstly good, then you'll be a lot better off. Buying brand new metal for those areas gets really really expensive really quick. Keep us posted. Looks like fun to me, but I'm used to it.
Posted by: bender Nov 5 2005, 04:17 PM
the clamshell
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Posted by: McMark Nov 5 2005, 04:19 PM
The chassis stiff kit get attached farther back than where your rust is. So it won't help. Get http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=4&t=12376 instead.
Posted by: bender Nov 5 2005, 04:40 PM
| QUOTE (McMark @ Nov 5 2005, 02:19 PM) |
| The chassis stiff kit get attached farther back than where your rust is. So it won't help. Get http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=4&t=12376 instead. |
and what about the clamsell??
i need also or the kit that u just mentioned will do it?
thanks alot
p.s
im sorry guys for all these questions becouse im new in it with no experiance or help
so thanks agian
Posted by: sean_v8_914 Nov 5 2005, 04:54 PM
there is a 914 club member that posted detail pics of a longitudinal reconstuction. His car is blue and I think the brave chap is in Germany. teh thread title was something like " You must be brave" . His craftsmanship is top notch.
I am not good with the club search tab
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=33395&hl=hell%20hole&st=20
the link above it not the one but it is good info
Posted by: grasshopper Nov 5 2005, 05:40 PM
| QUOTE (sean_v8_914 @ Nov 5 2005, 02:54 PM) |
| there is a 914 club member that posted detail pics of a longitudinal reconstuction. His car is blue and I think the brave chap is in Germany. |
here is Michelko's rust thread. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=16748&hl=progress+thread Very indepth. the inspiration for my project
Posted by: McMark Nov 5 2005, 07:11 PM
If you can find used metal (my recommendation), you don't need the clamshell. But first you must explore just how extensive your problem is and you can not do that with carpet, seats, etc installed.
Posted by: trekkor Nov 5 2005, 07:36 PM
When I saw that rust, I jumped up on top of my desk and started kicking my feet in the air like a donkey 
Yes, it's that bad.
Take all the parts off the car that interfere with the surgery first.
Poke around with a screwdriver to find where the good metal starts. Mark that.
Now determine if you want to fab your own repair parts or find a section from a donor car.
I like those 80 grit flap discs on an angle grinder to clean up metal FAST.
KT
Posted by: bender Nov 5 2005, 07:49 PM
thank a lot guys!!!!!
im gonna take the seats and carpets out and make some pictures and i hope u guys can help me decide what 2 do
thanks a lot agian
Posted by: boboli914@att.net Nov 6 2005, 02:39 PM
This is the best sight to answer all your 914 questions Good luck and have fun hunting down all those parts! 
Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 04:38 PM
ok dear members
i did a few shots , please tell me what you think
front boot
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Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 04:39 PM
rear trunk
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Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 04:40 PM
rear trunk , more
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Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 04:40 PM
seats area
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Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 04:41 PM
more
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Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 04:42 PM
more..
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Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 04:43 PM
more..
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Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 04:43 PM
and more
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Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 04:44 PM
sorry guys...
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Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 04:45 PM
last
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Posted by: grasshopper Nov 7 2005, 04:50 PM
wow, that definetly looks like an east coast car.... that is very serious.... all that can be replaced with replacement parts, or patch certain parts... it can get really expensive though... looks like you need new floors, trunk, jack post and support for drivers side... that part can be patched, if the rust doesn't extend much further... you might need the entire inner long..cant tell... you probably do on the passenger side.... and jack post, and support.... good luck 
Posted by: grasshopper Nov 7 2005, 04:51 PM
oh yeah, looks like you need a new wiring harness 
Posted by: grasshopper Nov 7 2005, 05:05 PM
another thing here is the best place for replacement panels.... http://www.restoration-design.com/ great service, great prices, great products.... DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH AUTO ATLANTA!!!!!!!!! 
Posted by: Bleyseng Nov 7 2005, 05:30 PM
I hope you got that car for free as its gone IMHO unless its a six or a 916.
Buy a car from Cali or AZ and don't look back!!!!
Even here in the Rainy City our cars are in better condition. 
Posted by: Verruckt Nov 7 2005, 05:41 PM
I agree with Bleyseng. Unless you are super good with fabrication and welding, or want to learn, that is waaaay gone. My opinion, hang tight and wait for a nice Cali roller to rear it's head. Then just bite the bullet and pay to have it shipped out to you. Then you can have a parts car to pull parts from to put on your cali roller. IMO that would be the easiest way to go about it. I think it's one of those things, that if you have to ask...
Whatever you do, I wish you luck.
Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 05:52 PM
| QUOTE (Verruckt @ Nov 7 2005, 03:41 PM) |
| I agree with Bleyseng. Unless you are super good with fabrication and welding, or want to learn, that is waaaay gone. My opinion, hang tight and wait for a nice Cali roller to rear it's head. Then just bite the bullet and pay to have it shipped out to you. Then you can have a parts car to pull parts from to put on your cali roller. IMO that would be the easiest way to go about it. I think it's one of those things, that if you have to ask... Whatever you do, I wish you luck. |
thanks a lot
let say ill buy all the parts from the site that u guys recommended
the rocket panel kit+ trunk floor+ the front floor+ the stiffening kit ( in the pic)
i need 2 cut the rusted parts and weld the new parts and thats it right?
thanks a lot
agian
Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 05:55 PM
the kit..
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Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 05:56 PM
more
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Posted by: Verruckt Nov 7 2005, 06:00 PM
| QUOTE (bender @ Nov 7 2005, 05:55 PM) |
| the kit.. |
Engmann's kit only "stiffens" the chassis. It would just be a bandaid to fix the actual problem you have, "no metal". You will have to replace the metal thats gone. And as the longs go, that is your frame. When you go to cut out the bad stuff, and weld in the new, the car needs to be supported, in the right way, and keeping dimensions. It's not even close to easy for the inexperienced, and from what i've seen even the pros aren't fond of that repair. If you've got some welding and fabrication skills, then you should be ok. But if you're new to that.. then you're going to have one helluva steep learning curve. Just a fair warning.
Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 06:02 PM
| QUOTE (grasshopper @ Nov 7 2005, 03:05 PM) |
| another thing here is the best place for replacement panels.... http://www.restoration-design.com/ great service, great prices, great products.... DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH AUTO ATLANTA!!!!!!!!! |
why not autoatlanta???
Posted by: Bleyseng Nov 7 2005, 06:03 PM
Yes, thats a inner long kit but you need to replace the floor pans before that will work.
Along with the rear trunk repairs....
the door jam replacing.....
outer rockers.....
jackholes...
clutchtube repairs.....
and you haven't shown us a pic of the hellhole!
If you have a body shop in your double garage its doable plus some experience welding, cutting&fitting metal, then forget it.
Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 06:40 PM
| QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Nov 7 2005, 04:03 PM) |
| Yes, thats a inner long kit but you need to replace the floor pans before that will work. Along with the rear trunk repairs.... the door jam replacing..... outer rockers..... jackholes... clutchtube repairs..... and you haven't shown us a pic of the hellhole! If you have a body shop in your double garage its doable plus some experience welding, cutting&fitting metal, then forget it. |
well guysi friend of mine has a body shop so he will do all the body work and the welding, ill help him...
ill buy the parts and we will do it together in his shop!!!
in a few more days im gonna take the rocket panel apart and then ill show u guys the pic
thanks a lot agian!!!!!!!!!!1
Posted by: Rider914 Nov 7 2005, 06:44 PM
My dad use to say he could fix it with one wing nut. . .
Unscrew the air filter wing nut, and slide a new car under it.
I say do the rust repair, take pictures and post a log here!
Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 09:32 PM
guys just a question
what the cost of the body work and the welding in a good bodyshop, whats your estimate??
thanks guys
Posted by: Verruckt Nov 7 2005, 09:36 PM
| QUOTE (bender @ Nov 7 2005, 09:32 PM) |
| guys just a question what the cost of the body work and the welding in a good bodyshop, whats your estimate?? thanks guys |
Easily 4 digits.
Posted by: bender Nov 7 2005, 10:06 PM
| QUOTE (Verruckt @ Nov 7 2005, 07:36 PM) | ||
Easily 4 digits. |
1k?
2k?
3k?
4k?
Posted by: Brando Nov 7 2005, 10:38 PM
That car is beyond my patience level... and i've got 2 degrees of NARPness to deal with...
Definitely wait for a roller 914 chassis... Southwest cars get shuffled around alot for cheap. You're better off swapping everything to a good chassis that's been treated and painted than trying to fabricate a car around what's left of your seat buckets.
Posted by: r_towle Nov 7 2005, 11:48 PM
2 clamshell kits
both halves of the floor boards
rear suspension console
Rocker covers
Sill plate
All installed by a pro, probably 5-8 days work
I think that there might be better cars in your area.
Check the local PCA and ask around there.
Rich
Posted by: 9146986 Nov 8 2005, 08:04 AM
I'd say it would cost around $4500 to fix the rust shown in the pics.
The problem is there's more than shown. You could probably band-aid the thing together for around half that, to keep it on the road, but unless you take the car apart and fix all the rust, it will come back someplace that you missed.
I'm guessing there's corrosion issues in the following areas: firewall, suspension console, sail panels, front fenders.
If there are any old repairs, or damage history; NEXT!
I'd look for a donor chassis. If you spent $1500 on a straight, bare, rust free chassis, you'd be way better off. Providing you can find one.
Fixing the chassis you've got will cost more, and you'll end up with a welded up car. that will rust someplace else in three years.
Look at the copper metallic car that recently sold in the classifieds, for example. You'd be better off going that route, and having your old car for parts.
Sorry 
Posted by: bender Nov 8 2005, 09:49 AM
| QUOTE (9146986 @ Nov 8 2005, 06:04 AM) |
| I'd say it would cost around $4500 to fix the rust shown in the pics. The problem is there's more than shown. You could probably band-aid the thing together for around half that, to keep it on the road, but unless you take the car apart and fix all the rust, it will come back someplace that you missed. I'm guessing there's corrosion issues in the following areas: firewall, suspension console, sail panels, front fenders. If there are any old repairs, or damage history; NEXT! I'd look for a donor chassis. If you spent $1500 on a straight, bare, rust free chassis, you'd be way better off. Providing you can find one. Fixing the chassis you've got will cost more, and you'll end up with a welded up car. that will rust someplace else in three years. Look at the copper metallic car that recently sold in the classifieds, for example. You'd be better off going that route, and having your old car for parts. Sorry :( |
u think that the chassis is rutten?
regardless for money
if ill cut the whole floor, the whole trunk floor, ill put the clamshell kit, the whole rocket kit, the stiffing kit
( i looked at the front fenders and they r rust free, i need 2 check also the rear)
all these steps wont be enought to enjoy the car??
thanks a lot guys !!
Posted by: Bleyseng Nov 8 2005, 09:56 AM
Its your time and money.....do what you want. The easy route is to find another rustfree chassis thats all.
Posted by: Joe Ricard Nov 8 2005, 10:41 AM
WTF is a "rocket panel"
Rocker panel or inner / outer longitudinal, door jam, door sill, sail panel, quarter panel.
Sorry just being a dick today. 
Posted by: bender Nov 8 2005, 11:02 AM
| QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Nov 8 2005, 08:41 AM) |
| WTF is a "rocket panel" Rocker panel or inner / outer longitudinal, door jam, door sill, sail panel, quarter panel. Sorry just being a dick today. |
Along with the rear trunk repairs....
the door jam replacing.....
outer rockers.....
jackholes...
inner rocker plus jackplate & tube
door threshold
seat mounts
floor pans
Posted by: bender Nov 8 2005, 11:03 AM
| QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Nov 7 2005, 04:03 PM) |
| Yes, thats a inner long kit but you need to replace the floor pans before that will work. Along with the rear trunk repairs.... the door jam replacing..... outer rockers..... jackholes... clutchtube repairs..... and you haven't shown us a pic of the hellhole! If you have a body shop in your double garage its doable plus some experience welding, cutting&fitting metal, then forget it. |
the door jam replacing..... which part is it?
Posted by: r_towle Nov 8 2005, 11:34 AM
guys, there is no such thing as a rust free chassis, certainly not up in the northeast.
If he buys one from CA, ships it, fixes the rust on that one...he will be at the same place as iff he fixes this one...
money wise.
Just bring it to your friend, show him all the parts that can be purchased and let him tell you what needs to be done.
Any one of these can be saved, it comes down to money.
If you are trying to locate one with less rust, look online and factor in 1000 buck to ship it.
I am sure HPH would sell you a stripped tub that has little rust for a good price...it might be worht looking into.
Rich
Posted by: Bleyseng Nov 8 2005, 03:16 PM
Locally, we have cars come up in the 1500-3000 range that just have rusty battery trays/hellholes. Those are easy to fix. All that rust in your car is way too much to tackle IIHO unless the car is dear to you. You can't fix all the rust on that type of car as Perry said. It will reappear!
Buy one that is in better condition to start with as shipping is only 800-1000!
Posted by: bondo Nov 8 2005, 03:25 PM
| QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Nov 8 2005, 09:41 AM) |
| WTF is a "rocket panel" |
This is a rocket panel:
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Posted by: bender Nov 8 2005, 03:31 PM
| QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Nov 8 2005, 01:16 PM) |
| Locally, we have cars come up in the 1500-3000 range that just have rusty battery trays/hellholes. Those are easy to fix. All that rust in your car is way too much to tackle IIHO unless the car is dear to you. You can't fix all the rust on that type of car as Perry said. It will reappear! Buy one that is in better condition to start with as shipping is only 800-1000! |
even if ill cut all the rusted areas , weld new parts insted, put all the rust fighting prudocts and do a full replacmant of rusted areas( never mind the costs)???
thanks
Posted by: Bleyseng Nov 8 2005, 04:45 PM
Once the chassis starts to rust that bad its rusting elsewhere from the inside out from the hidden areas ie -front cowl, inner longs, suspension points etc.
just passing on a word of advice.......
Posted by: SirAndy Nov 8 2005, 04:59 PM
| QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Nov 7 2005, 04:30 PM) |
| I hope you got that car for free as its gone IMHO unless its a six or a 916. |
junk ...floorpans are gone, longs are gone. that car would take some serious $$$ and time to repair.
you'd be *MUCH* better off to buy a car or roller from CA ...
Andy
Posted by: bondo Nov 8 2005, 05:16 PM
| QUOTE (SirAndy @ Nov 8 2005, 03:59 PM) | ||
junk ...floorpans are gone, longs are gone. that car would take some serious $$$ and time to repair. you'd be *MUCH* better off to buy a car or roller from CA ... Andy |
I'm gonna have one for sale soon.. longs, firewall and floors are solid, body is rusty (sail panels, around the windshield) Make one good one out of two!
Posted by: bender Nov 8 2005, 05:19 PM
| QUOTE (bondo @ Nov 8 2005, 03:16 PM) | ||||
I'm gonna have one for sale soon.. longs, firewall and floors are solid, body is rusty (sail panels, around the windshield) Make one good one out of two! |
engine?
year?
price?
thanks
Posted by: bondo Nov 8 2005, 05:30 PM
| QUOTE (bender @ Nov 8 2005, 04:19 PM) | ||||||
engine? year? price? thanks |
engine? Nope
year? 1971
price? Best offer
Once I've swaped the parts over that I need (sometime in December probably) it goes to the highest bidder. Even if that's only $1.
See http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=39215&hl=second+914 for pics. Wheels are not included, but will be for sale separately for $500. Otherwise it will be on stock steel wheels. I'll have more details on what is included after I've swapped off parts I need, but for now, if it's not purple, it probably isn't included.
Remember, it's not for sale yet, this is just a heads up that it will be soon. Details and up close photos of longs, etc will be posted in a classified ad once it's officially for sale.
Posted by: lapuwali Nov 8 2005, 05:32 PM
You need to start looking at Craigslist. There are always at least 3-4 914s for sale there, and currently there are six, all in the SF Bay Area. I'm sure there are more in the LA area. One guy in Stockton has two rollers for sale for only $800 (for the pair). If you want someone local to check out a car for you, just ask here. There are plenty of people here capable and willing to do so.
Posted by: bondo Nov 8 2005, 05:37 PM
Oh, and replacement panels (used) for most of the problems will be included.
Posted by: bender Nov 8 2005, 06:03 PM
| QUOTE (lapuwali @ Nov 8 2005, 03:32 PM) |
| You need to start looking at Craigslist. There are always at least 3-4 914s for sale there, and currently there are six, all in the SF Bay Area. I'm sure there are more in the LA area. One guy in Stockton has two rollers for sale for only $800 (for the pair). If you want someone local to check out a car for you, just ask here. There are plenty of people here capable and willing to do so. |
thanks a lot
really!!!!!!
according to the pic, if ill replace and weld all the floor pans( including the trunk), replace all the rocket panels componants(inner, outer etc), the door jamb, seats mounts
which parts do u think will be important to check\replace
thanks a lot guys
p.s
i prefair to pay a little bit( or mybe not so little) more and to replace the parts and not do dealing with shippmants of car , and storing another car, i know it will be more expensive to replace all the parts in my car, but i prefair it ,
my only question is:
is it doable and if i could and would enjoy this kind of car after all welding and replacing of the parts and rusted areas( and i mean all of them)
i get oppossite answers so im a little bit confused
thanks agian dear members
Posted by: bender Nov 8 2005, 06:15 PM
| QUOTE (SirAndy @ Nov 8 2005, 02:59 PM) | ||
junk ...floorpans are gone, longs are gone. that car would take some serious $$$ and time to repair. you'd be *MUCH* better off to buy a car or roller from CA ... Andy |
the clamshell is the answer for the rutten longs?
Posted by: rdauenhauer Nov 8 2005, 06:23 PM
Craigslist and other want adds are littered with "projects" that have been abadoned by well intentions folks like you. They start "digging into hell" and only the stongest come out the other side with what they envisoned. Many just lose intrest & or run out of money.
Were not trying to discorage you, I think ALL here would like you to succede, that said, I think you have a greeater chance at succeding if you start with something not so far gone. 
Posted by: Rouser Nov 8 2005, 06:23 PM
| QUOTE (bender @ Nov 8 2005, 05:31 PM) |
| even if ill cut all the rusted areas , weld new parts insted, put all the rust fighting prudocts and do a full replacmant of rusted areas (never mind the costs)??? thanks |
bender, listen to SirAndy, and get the hint from some of the others; the car is junk, or what we refer to as a "parts car." There is rust EVERYWHERE, and that's only what I see in the pics under all the bubbling paint and pinhole daylight.
We're not so much as trying to spare your feelings as much as sparing your wallet; this car can turn into a serious money pit. You won't recoup your investment any time soon (lucky if you break even), since the car isn't remarkable in any way, shape, or form. Did Ferdinand Porsche pass gas in it? Is it a 914-6 with one of Porsche's super-secret street racing motors (Shhh ...)? Did some famous prom queen/actress lose her virginity in it? Worse yet, is this your 1st car or (shudder) 1st Porsche?
Believe us, there are better examples out there, REGARDLESS of how much you got the car for (free, I'm guessing). I've talked to some (with the necessary skills) who have taken on restorations (rust-orations?) similar to this (914's even), and they still twitch uncontrollably when talking about it. Mind you, those are the finished projects! Drugs keep my twitching to a minimum.
For what you'll spend getting all that brown-ugly shiny and ready for paint, you can get a decent driver and save the therapy funds toward a possible Big-4 or -6 upgrade; we know of what we speak.
Posted by: TROJANMAN Nov 8 2005, 06:34 PM
some one had a roller for sale in cali recently. i think $200 or something. in the classifieds
Posted by: r_towle Nov 8 2005, 07:03 PM
| QUOTE (bender @ Nov 8 2005, 07:03 PM) | ||
thanks a lot really!!!!!! according to the pic, if ill replace and weld all the floor pans( including the trunk), replace all the rocket panels componants(inner, outer etc), the door jamb, seats mounts which parts do u think will be important to check\replace thanks a lot guys p.s i prefair to pay a little bit( or mybe not so little) more and to replace the parts and not do dealing with shippmants of car , and storing another car, i know it will be more expensive to replace all the parts in my car, but i prefair it , my only question is: is it doable and if i could and would enjoy this kind of car after all welding and replacing of the parts and rusted areas( and i mean all of them) i get oppossite answers so im a little bit confused thanks agian dear members |
it is doable.
You will LOVE the 914 once you have it all back together.
Get some of the restoration books on 914's....have fun get it done.
Rich
Posted by: bender Nov 9 2005, 10:02 PM
guys i got pictures from the engine area, what do u think?
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Posted by: bender Nov 9 2005, 10:03 PM
more....
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Posted by: bender Nov 9 2005, 10:04 PM
more..
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Posted by: bender Nov 9 2005, 10:04 PM
and more..
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Posted by: bender Nov 9 2005, 10:06 PM
the passenger side
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Posted by: bender Nov 9 2005, 10:07 PM
more pass side
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Posted by: bender Nov 9 2005, 10:08 PM
last one
what do u think guys?
i saw that in the firewall no rust, and from what i saw in the engine area nothing seriouse althou i need to take the engine out to really see something..
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Posted by: McMark Nov 9 2005, 10:16 PM
It's definitely fixable from a technical point of view, but from a financial point of view it's not fixable. You're going to find a whole separate world of problems on the passenger side of the car. You will be much much much much much much much much farther ahead if you ship a car from CA. It's not that complicated of a process (don't fear it) and there are plenty of members around here that know what they're doing and are willing to go and check out potential cars for you.
Buy a new chassis.
Buy a new chassis.
Buy a new chassis.
Buy a new chassis.
It may seems scary right now, but we're pointing you in the right direction. I promise.
Posted by: brant Nov 9 2005, 10:55 PM
bender,
its not that its impossible...
but I very much agree with all of those who have advised you to get a different car. Here is how I will frame my arguement.
$$$$$
Plan A to fix your car: if you buy all of the patch panels, welding rod, paint, cutting discs, sawzall blades, and beer for your buddy.... you will have about 6 grand into that shell without a motor, or any mechanicals. Also, your buddy is going to get sick of this project after about 4 months (of evenings and weekends) and possibly quit or even disown you. So you run the risk of loosing a friendship. Not to mention loosing touch with reality, your spare time, your spare money, your girlfriend/spouse.
When you get done you will need to spend another 2-3 thousand on the motor, interior, mechanicals. And after investing all of that time and labour you will have a car worth $4,000
Do you see the math here?
6K + 4K does not equal = 4K
I kid you not.
I know people that started with better shells and have 10 or 20K into their shell with new paint.
Plan B is to buy something else. If you buy a 2K roller and put it together yourself you will still have learned a ton. You will still have the opportunity to have fun with your buddy on smaller projects and you may actually accomplish it in a year or less. When you get done you'll likely have 5-8K into a car that is worth $5,000 because repaired cars (like plan A) are not worth as much as no/low rust cars.
Plan C is probably the best one from a financial standpoint. Borrow, beg, or take out a loan. Buy a NICE car for $5,000 - 6,000. Drive it, wax it, tinker on it. Go to the race track and take drivers education from your local porsche club. When you ever decided to sell it you would be able to sell it for the same 6K or more due to inflation.
( you are not likely to sell it, because you will have so much fun driving it and you won't learn to hate it like you will with trying to fix your current car)
Its your car.
Its not impossible.
but I just hate to see people spend 200% on things.
Not to mention that you have about a 1 in 1000 chance of actually finishing it and getting to drive it.
and isn't driving it part of the point?
If you want to learn to weld so badly. Spend your money on a welding class. or maybe volunteer your time with your buddy on one of his welding projects and let him buy the beer!
brant
Posted by: TROJANMAN Nov 9 2005, 11:06 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4544552143&ssPageName=MERC_VI_ReBay_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT
those pics look like one of the AA jewels sitting in the lot that is overgrown with weeds due to the recent downpours.
Posted by: SirAndy Nov 10 2005, 02:08 AM
| QUOTE (bender @ Nov 9 2005, 09:08 PM) |
| what do u think guys? |
longs are completely rusted away behind those rocker panels ....
run for the hills, that's what i think ...
Andy
Posted by: sgomes Nov 10 2005, 08:15 AM
I'll add one note of caution. That car is so badly rusted, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do NOT get underneath it when you jack it up to remove the engine. DO NOT place it on jackstands directly. USE a 2x6 running along each long from front to back. You are going to find that when you try to place anything like a jack or a jack stand under the longs it's going to crunch through.
Please be careful working on that car!
It really sounds like you don't want to give up on her. That's admirable. Just be safe when you are restoring her. There won't be too much left other than the VIN's when your done.
Posted by: bender Nov 10 2005, 01:49 PM
guys thanks alot u far to kind realy
a few questions:
1- if the longs rutten, the clumshell wont do the trik 4 it?
2- if ill buy cali car , let say around 1-3K ill get it with the regestration?
3- how long is the shipp from cali to newark , nj?? costs around 800$?
thanks a lot dear dear members
Posted by: McMark Nov 10 2005, 02:10 PM
1. The clam shells work, it's the $ the doesn't add up. Clam shell cost a lot, installation costs a lot. I would expect $3000 per side for parts and labor, at least.
2. Most CA cars are registered. Ask about it when you buy, but expect them to have it.
3. I don't have any personal experience, but shipping should be pretty quick. Within a month, worst case. I think $800-$1000 is appropriate. I think they charge per mile.
Posted by: brant Nov 10 2005, 02:50 PM
I haven't actually shipped a car yet.
but I tried to buy an SVT in boston and went so far as to get shipping quotes for that car.
my quote to colorado from Boston was 850-ish and about 4 days.
brant
Posted by: lapuwali Nov 10 2005, 03:26 PM
Shipping on an open trailer for a car that can be driven on and off the trailer is roughly $1200-1500 from the SF Bay Area to New Jersey (shipped a TR6 from here to Warren, NJ last year). They'll usually charge an extra $100 if they have to winch the car on and off the trailer (as in a roller with no engine). Google for auto transport, and you'll get several places to call. I've used Kiwi's Karriers several times:
http://www.kiwiskarriers.com/
They're a broker with many contract drivers at the ready.
Posted by: bender Nov 10 2005, 03:27 PM
| QUOTE (McMark @ Nov 10 2005, 12:10 PM) |
| 1. The clam shells work, it's the $ the doesn't add up. Clam shell cost a lot, installation costs a lot. I would expect $3000 per side for parts and labor, at least. 2. Most CA cars are registered. Ask about it when you buy, but expect them to have it. 3. I don't have any personal experience, but shipping should be pretty quick. Within a month, worst case. I think $800-$1000 is appropriate. I think they charge per mile. |
the clamshell in autoatlanta is 350$ each side- its not that bad
about work and welding my friend will do me a great price so...
i gess 1500-2000 for the clamshell issue
my question is that- thew clamshell will give me the total answer to the rutten longs?
p.s
it needs to cut out the longs and 2 weld the clamshell??
thanks agian
Posted by: McMark Nov 10 2005, 03:34 PM
No the clamshell is only about %65 of the issue. You're only looking at part of the picture.
Posted by: Bleyseng Nov 10 2005, 03:39 PM
You still have to fix the rest of the rust in the trunks, inner longs, floor pans etc. That is where the money is to fix that car!
Total waste of time when you can still can get a roller out of cali for 1500-2000 shipped to your door. That will give you a solid chassis to transfer parts to and then be able to drive for years without worry.
Posted by: Andyrew Nov 10 2005, 03:43 PM
This chassis is gone.
It will split in half soon. That crack is the chassis already splitting.
Spend the money and get a good car (best option) that you can drive and modify to your liking. (and drive WHILE you modify, something that I have been fortunate to enjoy.)
Or like everyone is also saying, buy a chassi. Many good examples. Heck, check the classifieds!!!! Theres a blue flared shell thats been in the classfieds for ever.. and a http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=20&t=39983 Project in oregon, http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=20&t=39722
Factor in 1k for shipping...
Gl
Posted by: brant Nov 10 2005, 03:55 PM
| QUOTE (bender @ Nov 10 2005, 02:27 PM) |
| p.s it needs to cut out the longs and 2 weld the clamshell?? thanks agian |
Yes...
if you do any repair to your current car you are wasting your time to not cut out the rotten metal.
If you just cover it up then you can expect the existing rust to rust out your new panels from the inside.
and within a few years your new paint will be bubling also.
Thats part of the trick and skill to restoring a unit body or 914. There is no frame, because the entire car is the frame. So when you cut out the longitudinals, you have to maintain all of the dimensions and measurements very precisely. Most pro shops would use a frame table to do that kind of work. If you mess up or warp the chassis, then you end up with a car that will not take an alignment or else a car where the doors don't shut, or someother problem.
Warping the chassis is a real danger in the door area.
(I still say that you buy a reasonable running car and begin to enjoy it. Even if its a 4K car that needs a paint job. maybe your buddy will cut you a deal on the paint job?)
does the blue car have a known good motor?
how is the interior?
(trying to discern what your up against)
brant
Posted by: rhcb914 Nov 10 2005, 04:04 PM
Hi Bender,
I don't know what your budget is for a car but I noticed this on Craigs list.
http://boston.craigslist.org/car/108051890.html
I don't know the details on the car but I'm sure one of us local guys could check it out if it's still available. You might even be able to drive it back to NJ.
-Rob
Posted by: brant Nov 10 2005, 04:46 PM
Rob,
that car sounds sweet!
and bender,
the 1973 2.0 is considered the cream of the crop for all 4 cylinder 914's.
a lot of guys have driven cars out of cali.
this very club will offer to pitch in and check it out for you.
and the club can help you as a safety net during your drive back to NJ.
brant
Posted by: Rouser Nov 10 2005, 04:57 PM
| QUOTE (bender @ Nov 10 2005, 12:08 AM) |
| what do u think guys? i saw that in the firewall no rust, and from what i saw in the engine area nothing seriouse althou i need to take the engine out to really see something.. |
Man, my bowels loosened just looking at those pics; makes for a great laxative. I see all those leaves and think, "Outside car, couple dozen winters, seasonal rains, rust, rot, rot, rust, rot, rust ..." A cash register's bell would ring in my head as I scrolled through the images.
bender, FORGET this car. Free or not, your gonna wind up $inking $ome $eriou$ $$$ into it, and that's just at the rot we can see. Don't count on others doing all the welding & work for you, cuz they're gonna learn to hate this car after a while. It's old, and it's going to need a LOT of work.
If you had your heart set on a Porsche 914, save your pennys and get a runner; decent $4K - $6K examples are out there, you just have to be patient and search.
Posted by: bender Nov 10 2005, 10:42 PM
guys im about to abond my 914
probebly around december ill seek after a nice cali car "rust free"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
probebly around 1-3K with engine
my engine is ok and driving, the interior is ok and the tranni also
i want to do the springs and shocks sporty
and also the rabys kit for the 170hp so my base sould and be good and rust free!!!!
ill take a few days\weeks to close my opinion
im still amazed from your kindnes and thw willing 2 help
thanks a lot presiouse members
Posted by: bender Nov 11 2005, 03:52 PM
| QUOTE (brant @ Nov 10 2005, 02:46 PM) |
| Rob, that car sounds sweet! and bender, the 1973 2.0 is considered the cream of the crop for all 4 cylinder 914's. a lot of guys have driven cars out of cali. this very club will offer to pitch in and check it out for you. and the club can help you as a safety net during your drive back to NJ. brant |
how many hourses the 2.0 has?
Posted by: McMark Nov 11 2005, 04:19 PM
The factory claimed 90. But, regardless of the numbers, the 2.0 is a blast to drive. Good stuff.
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