Lots and lots of parts that are hard to keep track of. And lots of cleaning.
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What have I done?
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This started as a grind in 1st and 2nd. I used Bondo's and Red Beards info to get it apart. One thing I would advise is take it apart before you order parts cause it may be worse than you think and surprises are expensive. I invested in some syncros, dogteeth, gaskets and such before I found this. The price tag just went up.
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So here I go. The race for the new big bearing on the pinion shaft needed to be installed in the case. It is positioned by a couple of snap rings. The reason I went ahead with this tranny was because this race is still a press fit into this case. I used piston ring pliers to expand this snap ring and istall it on the race. I haven't reistalled the ring gear and diff yet cause I wanted to be able to verify if the race was seated.
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One snap ring on
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Seating the race. I used a piece of PVC pipe about the same diameter to drive the race in. I tapped very lightly, slow going. The case wouldn't fit in the oven and the wife was on a terror last night so I couldn't heat it.
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Here is the race seated and the second snap ring installed. The 1st ring contrats against the bearing race. The second ring expands against the case. These 2 rings on the race trap the bearing race in position. Pretty cool.
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New seals. I sure love PVC pipe
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Ran it low on oil huh, Dave.
Watch how you install the gears back onto the shafts, they should be prefectly aligned with each other. They have a shoulder on them so they face only one way (look in the book or do you have the workshop manual?).
Aligning the shift rods is tricky so follow the books carefully.
Looks good!
Time to install this after a few squirts of gear lube and a little lube in the bearings
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Installed
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I installed a new O ring with a little gear lube and torqued down the cover
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Onto the gear stack. I needed to replace dogteeth on 2nd gear. I put the gear in a vice and tap off the dogteeth with a mallet amd chisel. It ruins the chisel but, the gear is fine.
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QUOTE (DNHunt @ Nov 5 2005, 08:31 AM) |
What have I done? |
Here's the new dogteeth installed on the gear. 2nd gets a new syncro, new dogteeth and the 4th - 5th slider. 3rd gets a new syncro.
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I put the brake band stops (I can't remember if they are called stops or blocks) on the dogteeth of 2nd gear.
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Brake bands installed. There are 2 on 2nd through 5 th. 1 on 1st.
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This picture shows the new syncro installed and it's relationship with the brake band blocks. Nice sharp new dogteeth
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I installed the snap ring (a bitch) to finsh the assembly of 2nd gear.
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I had a hell of a time with the snap rings slipping off of my pliers so I cut off some 6lb finishing nails and filed the heads down until they fit in the holes in the rings. The heads kepth the rings from shooting off.
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Dude I just start this myself!
Planned on just pulling one apart so I could clean the case, and inspect the internals at same time.
Now Im VERY affraid, and In awe at the same time.
Not sure I have the skills (or patience ) for this.
Nice work!!!
Nice trick with the 6 penny nails. I HATE snap rings...
Tom
Ah, good....Dave is doing this.
I have an AX tomorrow then it's....ta da!...."winter project"
time. (sometimes stretching into spring )
Amongst the items to be covered is installing a 'B' first gear.
Since Dave will soon be an expert, he can come down & bail me out of the mess I'll make.
If I work a bunch of OT, maybe a 904 mainshaft & a new 2nd
If I hit the lotto, an LSD
Onto the pinion shaft. Just got back from a soccer game. This is the roller bearing at the flywheel end of the pinion shaft. It goes in the race I installed in the case. I drove it on with a piece of galvanized pipe on the race
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Next come the shims that help set pinion depth.
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I had 3 shims in this box. I think there can be different numbers unlike the endplay shims on a type 4. The washer that goes next is on the bench
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After that washer is 5th gear. One of the hard things is keeping everything in order. I used coat hangers to run through the center of everthing. Then I could just pull one thing off at a time. it worked really wel except for 1 set of gears. Watch and see if you can find the mistake. I'll let you know when you should be able to see it
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There is a ridge on one side of 4th and 5th gear that butts up to the spacing collar between them. You can see it on the top of the gear near the splined shaft. Ah sh*t off to a wedding reception. Yes honey
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4th gear with the ridge down facing the spacing collar
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Another washer
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Next comes the race for the roller bearing for the 3rd gear assembly.
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Roller bearing for 3rd gear goes on next. It just slips over the race
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Here's the roller bearing on the race ready to install the 3rd gear assembly (gear, brake band and blocks, dogteeth, syncro, and snap ring). All of the gears go on the shafts like this.
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3rd gear assembly goes over the race and roller bearing with the dogteeth and snap ring up.
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Next is the slider hub for the 2nd and 3rd slider. Don't worry about which way it goes. There is no top or bottom so ram it home.
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2nd, 3rd slider fits on its hub. You can't miss with this.
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Next the 2nd gear race, roller bearing and gear assembly go on the shaft. The dogteeth point down toward the slider
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Another cone washer goes on next. You have to keep them in order cause they are all just a little different. 2nd gear is on the pinion shaft with the dogteeth pointed toward the slider (in this case down away from the camera).
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Finally, the race for the ball bearing in the intermediate plate. Once this is tapped down the pinion shaft is ready to go in the intermediate plate.
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The finished pinion shaft assembly
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wow. so 2nd and 3rd are the only gears with a slider...?
1st and reverse is on the other side of the intermediate plate right?
b
Time to assemble the drive shaft. 2nd gear on the usual box is ground as part of the drive shaft so, so I got a freebie cause there is no way to screw it up. The first thing I put on was the race for the double ball bearing in the intermediate plate. It goes on the side of 2nd gear with the short part of the shaft.
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Now I turned the shaft over so i was putting parts on the long end of the drive shaft. 3rd gear next
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Next goes a flat washer
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Here's the beginning of the one mistake I made (the one I caught at least). Next goes the 4th gear assembly. It goes on over a race and roller bearing just like 2nd and 3rd assemblies on the pinion shaft. Always, dogteeth toward the slider
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4th, 5th slider hub. There is no right or wrong side, just slide it on.
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4th, 5th slider. I swapped this slider with the 2nd, 3rd slider because the 2nd, 3rd slider had a touch of wear and 4th and 5th don't get used as much as 2nd and 3rd.
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I'm still continuing in my ignorance. 5th gear assembly goes on with the dogteeth down toward the slider.
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Cone washer
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Next goes the smaller roller bearing and a locking plate. The tab goes in the slot pointed down to go under the bearing.
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Tighten the nut down to 80 lbs and bend up 1 edge of the locking plate and the drive shaft is ready. I still haven't caught my mistake. Anyone that has been in one of these boxes should see it now.
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4th and 5th gear are in the wrong order?
How did you torque that nut to 80ft/lbs.?
You are RiIGHT. It won't go in the intermediate plate like that. I guessed. I did mark the shaft and nut so I got them to the same spot.
Ah, the intermediate plate. I installed the bearing races (the whole bearing for the pinion shaft).
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Next comes the spacer that goes under the bearing retainer plate.
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The bearing retainer plate
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Here is another use for the CV joint tool. 8mm 12point.
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Torqued to 15-17 lb ft. I had a heck of a time figuring out how to steady the intermediate plate while I torqued it. I finally put a couple of 8mm bolts in my vice and put the plate over them.
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I'm ready to drive the race down the pinion shaft
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Pinion and drive shafts installed in the intermediate plate and ready for 1st gear.
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1st gear on the drive shaft is the gear then a washer, a castle nut secured with a roll pin. The flat surface of the gear faces away from the bearing.
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The pinion shaft ready for the 1st gear assembly
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A washer goes on the pinion shaft first
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Just like the other gear assemblies a race goes on the shaft first
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Then the roller bearing
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Then the 1st gear assembly. Sorry about the fuzzy picture
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Next is the slider hub.
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I got this slider used and it is in really good shape. The teeth are sharp and there is ver little wear
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The slider goes on with the teeth facing the first gear assembly. The bolt holds it all together.
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Wow!
Move this to classics once this is done.
Shift forks, shafts and detents. I really like this part. People sure are clever.
I borrowed this pic from Royce. Thanks man. It shows the parts. The shift forks are not shown.
A couple of things. The springs and balls on the right fit into a tube in the intermediate plate and you see the plug on the bottom of the transmission. They serve to center the transmission in neutral. They also prevent selection of 2 gears at once. You feel these somewhat (along with the compression of the syncro rings) when the shifter passes through neutral and especially when you select reverse. It works most of the time. I used a little all purpose grease to coat the parts as they can escape through the shift rod holes in the intermediate plate (and grease is usually good). I spent a while looking for 1 of the balls on the garage floor.
The notch in the picture positions one of the shift forks. An 8mm bolt passes through the shift fork and engages this notch then threds into the other side of the shift fork. This notch is larger than the 8nn bolt so it allows the shift forlk some adjustment on the shaft. Tightening the bolt then clampd the shift fork to the shift rod.
Ah, fork it, I can't explain it. Look at the pictures
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Start with the 4th, 5th shift fork on it's slider and then add parts.
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Next I inserted it's shift rod.
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Then I added the ball that is part of the detent in the tube.
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All these balls, springs, and rods go in this hole in the intermediate plate. Beware the balls can come out of the holes that the shift rods pass through. All purpose grease is tacky enough to slow them down. I had to get down on my hands and knees to find one of the little suckers.
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Next comes a spring with the little rod inside it. Again grease.
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as joe sharp said yesterday - the ball and stick game.
AA
Then comes the second ball. You shoud be able to see it in the tube if you look through the hole for the 2nd, 3rd shift rod in the intermediate plate. Did I say I like grease?
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Next I put the 2nd, 3rd shift fork on its' slider
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Next, 2nd, 3rd shift rod! These bolts are only hand tight right now cause I'll adjust them later.
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Next is the little peanut thing in the tube in the intermediate plate.
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After you shove it in you should be able to just barely see it through the 1st, reverse shift rod hole in the intermediate plate.
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Next the 1st, reverse shift rod and shift fork go on with the bolt finger tight.
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The 3rd and final ball goes in the tube
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Then the stiffer of the 2 springs
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You can see the last spring in the hole
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The plug finishes it up
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Done with that
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Very cool stuff
This is a side shifter!!!
Adjusting the shift forks for 2nd, 3rd and 4th, 5th can be done now. The balls and springs will hold the shift rods in neutral and the alignment jig supports the free ends of the rods. You should be able to see all of the notches in the shift rods lined up. Like this
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The jig holds everything nice and steady
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Tighten the bolts when the sliders for 2nd, 3rd and 4th, 5th are centered between their respective gears. Here is what 4th, 5th should look like.
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Haynes manual calls for 1mm clearance between the back of the slider and reverse on its' shaft. Once I got that I tightened down the bolt on the shirt fork then rechecked it.
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The gear stack is now ready except for torquing the 30 mm bolt on 1st gear.
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The paper shims for the intermediate plate were not colored and the replacements in the gasket kit are not either so I had to measure them. I chose a none compressed area in each. There are passages or something where the castings are not solid and the sealing surfaces do not compress the shims. The old ones added up to .015".
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One old shim measured .009"
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The other old one was .006
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It just so happens that there was an .009" in the gasket kit.
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And lucky me an .006. I guess I'm good to go.
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I installed the 2 paper gaskets and installed the gear tack in the case. I used an old slider and my biggest pipe wrench to hold the pinion shaft so I could torque 1st gear. I know that looks gruesome but, it worked well.
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Gear stack done and intermediate plate installed
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Time for reverse. It starts with a roller bearing. The thrust washer remained on the shaft.
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Then a spacer
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Then a second roller bearing
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Reverse gear slips over the roller bearings and spacer. The staight cut gears go toward the case
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Another bearing
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Another thrust washer. This has a cut out machined into it that will overlap par of the race for the drive shaft in the intermediate plate. It's a bitch to keep on and oriented right. I used some grease to keep it in place.
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I removed the bolt from the speedo drive and pulled the drive part way out. It makes it easier to seat the rear cover.
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Torqued down the cover nuts and replaced the speedo and speedo bolt . Everything seems to turn really well.
Reconditioning the shift console starts with removing the roll pin holding the fork.
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Take it apart and this is what you have. Getting the small seal in the console out is a little tough without a seal puller.
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Here is the seal for the rod
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The seal installed
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The larger plastic washer goes on the shaft before reinserting it.
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Inserting the rod in the console
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The top washer is the smaller plastic one.
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The fork goes on the shaft. The long leg goes toward the bottom and the 3 lugs point the same direction as the lever on the rod
Tap in the roll pin
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Change the O-ring and istall the gasket and put it in. [Edit by McMark: No gasket. The gasket that looks like it goes here is for the tailshifter transmissions.]
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A couple of casualities. A broken drive flange expansion bolt. I used the wrong torque spec. And a pinched O-ring
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Done!! I just need to add Swepco. I sure hope it works
Dave
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Thanks for putting so much time into documenting the rebuild. It's the best I've seen in terms of photos. Good Luck!
Would it be possible to get this into an Adobe file? Would be a great resource while reassembly of mine.
Dave,
Once again, you've provided a super article. Great photos and narrative. Instant classic. Thanks so much.
Transmissions are still a mystery to me and will be until I take one apart. Kinda scary.
Excellent article, Dave.
The key thing to take away from this is that, unlike rebuilding an engine, a transmission is full of parts that all look the same, but aren't the same. It's very important to do something like what he did with the coat hangers so you dont' mix up the order of the parts on the shafts. Some people use a large table and simply place the parts on the table in the order they remove them from the shaft. The nice thing about the coat hanger is that it takes up less space, and there's less chance of some buddy, child, dog, whatever coming along and messing up the order of the parts on the table by accident.
James
The other thing about the coat hanger is that it keeps the orientation of the parts the same. Some things like the cone washers and gears can't be flipped. Even with that I managed to mix up a couple of gears and I didn't catch it until I was trying to put the drive shaft in the intermediate plate.
Dave
I label the gears with black felt pen as I take them out, saves on time trying to figure out what is what.
Thank you Dave! Another great article for the Classics.
I just read this entire thread - twice and watched the Dr. Evil video (a few times)
Question @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=598 , how did the tranny run after all of that work?
Thank you,
CTC911CTC
HOLY RESURRECTION!
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