Hi everyone,
I am replacing my points and condenser and will need to set my timing, anyone know the proper setting?
John
Better ask Jake
I'd ask Jake, but 7.5 BTDC is a safe bet.
QUOTE (rick 918-S @ Nov 23 2005, 05:39 PM) |
Better ask Jake |
QUOTE (Mark Henry @ Nov 23 2005, 07:01 PM) |
I'd ask Jake, but 7.5 BTDC is a safe bet. |
Most of our carb'ed engines are set at 34-35 degrees btdc
Check this:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_timing_carbs/914_timing_carbs.htm
QUOTE (hmeeder @ Nov 23 2005, 11:27 PM) |
Most of our carb'ed engines are set at 34-35 degrees btdc Check this: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_timing_carbs/914_timing_carbs.htm |
QUOTE (Flat VW @ Nov 23 2005, 07:05 PM) |
I changed the points and it is running tip-top now. It is funny how drivabilty can diminish slowly and then reach "critical mass" suddenly. No timing adjustment for now, but what a difference in starting. Test drive to commence in mere moments... John |
I think the adjustment/change interval is around 6k miles? I always seem to futz with them a helluva lot sooner than that. I went to an electronic replacement and life is much better with 1 less thing you have to tinker with.
Points should be replaced when worn, condenser you can keep in there for a long, long time. Be sure to use a bosch unit - the junky ones at your local flaps are known to die after a little bit of time.
Hi. On 009's i've been using either Compufires or Petronix units lately. Once you set your timing, you're pretty much set for a long time, although it's always a good idea to check it periodically.
John
The answer to your last question is : in a jam I would use a matchbook, it is close enough (IN THICKNESS) to get you home to your feeler gauges.
What dizzy are you running?
Too much advance is not good for the engine.
How did you set it? Static or with a timing light?
QUOTE (Mark Henry @ Nov 24 2005, 05:17 AM) |
What dizzy are you running? Too much advance is not good for the engine. How did you set it? Static or with a timing light? |
Just changing the points can change your timing.
A mallory will have a big red cap.
It's hard to see tha numbers on a Bosch dizzy without taking it out. If you undo the 13mm (wrench size) nut you can pull it up and out, get the number and stick it back in. Rotate the rotor till it seats right down and put the nut back on. That shouldn't change your timing.
It will have a set of 9 numbers in 3's, it sometimes has a letter on the end. Don't worry about any other numbers.
XXX XXX 009
XXX XXX 050
XXX XXX 205A
(I can't think of the first numbers off the top of my head so I've used the "X" for the ones I don't know.)
NO NO NO!!!!!!!!!!
Every engine I build is different- Almost all them have different optimum settings that I determined during their Dyno sessions!!!
This is why I create spec books for them and include them with the engine, these specs are all you need to do anything maintenance wise to the engine. If you received that manual with the car, its all there.. If not I'll have to email them to you tomorrow as I am away from the shop and do not have them handy today.
DO NOT LISTEN TO ANY OF THE ABOVE RECOMMENDATIONS!!
There are no default settings for my engines and this is VERY important to set correctly. If not your MPG head temps and power will all suffer.
If it wasn't Thanksgiving I could help you in 5 minutes..
er... i mean...
Listen to the man who made your engine.
and why arent you running a pointless setup or a mallory ?
The same reason I'm not running (or had recently purchased) a six.
There is something most gratifying about running the "old school stuff" and "waxing the tails" of newest, latest, computer-driven cars in my "just a 4" (cool vanity plate ).
Running, an engine essentially designed in what, the late thirties?
I encountered a Mazada RX-8 entering the freeway last night and gave it a taste. We were both pedaling pretty hard, I having just shifted to fifth when a Mercedes newest latest two seater went by us like we were going backward, so its all relative.
I know my place in the "car universe" and I like it.
I also had a run against a brand new BMW 325 (entering the freeway also just last night), they are pokey.
At this time if I made any changes it would be for "emissions reasons", and I would make the jump to programmable electronic fuel injection.
It seems to be common knowledge around here that there is maybe as much as 10% more power to be had with the change.
John
QUOTE (Jake Raby @ Nov 24 2005, 08:47 AM) |
NO NO NO!!!!!!!!!! Every engine I build is different- Almost all them have different optimum settings that I determined during their Dyno sessions!!! This is why I create spec books for them and include them with the engine, these specs are all you need to do anything maintenance wise to the engine. If you received that manual with the car, its all there.. If not I'll have to email them to you tomorrow as I am away from the shop and do not have them handy today. DO NOT LISTEN TO ANY OF THE ABOVE RECOMMENDATIONS!! There are no default settings for my engines and this is VERY important to set correctly. If not your MPG head temps and power will all suffer. If it wasn't Thanksgiving I could help you in 5 minutes.. |
no freaking way...i feel EXACTLY the same way you do.
I get chills sometimes when i drive my car, knowing that i'm driving an old-world car.
I love it!
Jake's doing wonders for the aircooled world.
b
QUOTE (Mark Henry @ Nov 24 2005, 05:17 AM) |
How did you set it? Static or with a timing light? |
QUOTE (Flat VW @ Nov 24 2005, 12:51 PM) |
The same reason I'm not running (or had recently purchased) a six. Running, an engine essentially designed in what, the late thirties? |
QUOTE (J P Stein @ Nov 24 2005, 06:28 PM) | ||
The 6 was designed before the T-4. Get another excuse |
QUOTE (J P Stein @ Nov 24 2005, 02:28 PM) | ||
The 6 was designed before the T-4. Get another excuse |
get a set of points, condensorand rotor cap and put them in your glove box.....
Its less than 20 bucks...it will get you home.
Once you have confirmed the settings with Jake...keep the book with your car.
Get an accel cable and take that in the car too...
Rich
clutch cable?
both of those cables are close to 100 bucks on thier own
b
OK..
I ran back to the shop and grabbed the folder for the engine...
Dwell angle= 48 degrees
Initial advance @ 1,000 RPM= 8 degrees
Full advance at 3,200 RPM = 29 degrees BTDC
Don't worry with the initial advance..
Rev the engine to 3500 RPM after verifying the dwell is within 2 degrees +/- of my spec and ensure that you have the 29 degrees full advance. Full advance is what matters most.
The Mallory is an excellent addition to the engine, if you are worried about being stranded keep your entire current dizzy in the trunk- it will drop install in 10 minutes-
I have used hundreds of mallory's and had one go bad. It was bad out of the box.... I have one on every car I own, except the Pinzgauer and I'm trying to adapt one to it as we speak!
If you have further tuning questions- don't ask ANYONE but me, hey don't know that engine, nor do they have it's specs- you have my cell number.
When I work my tricks the stock tuning goes out the window..
QUOTE (Jake Raby @ Nov 24 2005, 05:32 PM) |
OK.. I ran back to the shop and grabbed the folder for the engine... Dwell angle= 48 degrees Initial advance @ 1,000 RPM= 8 degrees Full advance at 3,200 RPM = 29 degrees BTDC Don't worry with the initial advance.. Rev the engine to 3500 RPM after verifying the dwell is within 2 degrees +/- of my spec and ensure that you have the 29 degrees full advance. Full advance is what matters most. The Mallory is an excellent addition to the engine, if you are worried about being stranded keep your entire current dizzy in the trunk- it will drop install in 10 minutes- I have used hundreds of mallory's and had one go bad. It was bad out of the box.... I have one on every car I own, except the Pinzgauer and I'm trying to adapt one to it as we speak! If you have further tuning questions- don't ask ANYONE but me, hey don't know that engine, nor do they have it's specs- you have my cell number. When I work my tricks the stock tuning goes out the window.. |
Jake-
Once you set these up on the dyno- what is your experience with this unit needing adjustment? Once a year for grins?
The engine I bought from you a couple years ago is still running great. I have only rebalanced the carbs a couple times....but now that I think about it...have never thought to verify timing.
-greg
*cough* take me for a ride in it *cough*
are you a basketball guy too, or just football.....?
b
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Nov 24 2005, 01:02 PM) |
I get chills sometimes when I drive my car, I love it! |
QUOTE (Flat VW @ Nov 25 2005, 09:36 AM) | ||
Ah, Britt, I think your chills are probably coming from shot window seals.... I would have gladly given you a ride at the FFC event. Heck, I might even have let you driven it, although the one time Shaggy has driven it he darn near spun it with me in the passenger seat. Too much ratio of throttle to steering input in a turn. John |
The Mallory generally doesn't need to be adjusted.. Their are no wear parts..
The one in my bus has been installed for almost 4 years and the last time I put a timing light on it, it was exactly where it was on the dyno.. Same thing with the 912E, after 90K I have only swapped the dizzy cap and rotor. That dizzy has been on that engine since it was born, except for about 11K miles when I was testing the kit carlson system with its direct fire ignition..
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