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Posted by: tod914 Aug 21 2003, 06:12 PM

I have to redo my rear window. The seal at the bottom broke so I have to redo it.
Everything is apart and cleaned. The 3m tape i used 2 years ago, came off very easy. I figured it would of set better than it did. Window popped out np, and tape was very gooey.
Are there alternatives to that 1/4" butyl tape? Or should I go with that again? Maybe have an autoglass place do it???

Any thoughts???

Thanks

Posted by: Jeffs9146 Aug 21 2003, 06:20 PM

I did the auto glass route and asked them to put the windshield glue on the bottom high enough so the water wouldn't sit between the rubber seal and the seam of the window. That area is known to leak so I wouldn't use the tape again!

Jeff

Posted by: tod914 Aug 21 2003, 11:08 PM

Im kind leaning towards that Jeff. What type of adhesive did they use? I assume it was from hot glue gun of some sort?

Posted by: Dave_Darling Aug 21 2003, 11:31 PM

The original butyl tape on my car held for about 30 years the first time around. I figure in another ~25 years it will be time to replace the new butyl tape again...

--DD

Posted by: rhodyguy Aug 22 2003, 06:09 AM

i'm dirk wrighting the rear window today. replacing the pad that houses the 2 rear top clips. 1/4" butyl.

kevin

Posted by: vsg914 Aug 22 2003, 06:47 AM

You can purchase a tube of Urethane sealant from your local auto glass shop and DIY.

Posted by: boxstr Aug 22 2003, 08:43 AM

Personally I have used a product from GOOP it is an Automotive sealer, comes in a tube, and by following the instructions you can reseal your rear window without having to remove the existing butyl tape.
I first remove the interior pieces and then remove the rear window. Clean the surface on your car and the surface on the rear window that are to mated together. A razor blade and lacquer thinner for the glass and car are good. Do not use to much. Let dry.
One thing I have found to be very helpful in holding the glass in place are adjustable dusters. They are adjustable , you set one end against the glass and the other on the front dash area. I included a pic. You leave these in place for 24 hours and the glass is in place to stay.
Then just reinstall the interior and you are on your way.
CCLINGLASSHOUSETOWN


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Posted by: rhodyguy Aug 22 2003, 09:18 AM

one thing about the butyl i bought. the edges have a radious. gives that same curved reveal as stock with no tooling/trimming needed on the engine side. screw that junk pad and those nightmare screws. more as i go.


kevin
"have utility knife, will travel"


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Posted by: Jeffs9146 Aug 22 2003, 09:31 AM

It is the same stuff they used to glue in my Jeep Grand Cherokee windshild. I can only assume it was hot when it was applied!

Jeff

Posted by: boxstr Aug 22 2003, 09:32 AM

One thing Kevin needs to look for a swap meets are better screw hole plugs.
CCLINTRIMSVILLE

Posted by: tryan Aug 22 2003, 09:43 AM

i used marine goop to reinstall a rear glass in a drop top saab. still holding after a couple years. that was a pain in the butt.

Posted by: Lawrence914-6 Aug 22 2003, 09:49 AM

I installed my rear glass using the butyl strip method. Worked okay for me, but keeping even pressure on the glass was a PITA. A piece of plywood and some 2x4s helped, but I had to be gentle.

Next time, I'll use that "glass primer" stuff that the windshield guys use.

-Rusty

Posted by: tod914 Aug 22 2003, 09:50 AM

when i took the window out yesterday, it pulled out very easily. It was a 100 degree day. The butyl was like bubble gum. Im really not keen on using it again.
It was easy to clean off, which was good. But, I think it should of set better than it did. I think on monday I will take it to an auto glass shop. I was quoted 50-100. I really dont want to redo this window in another year or two.

Posted by: Lawrence914-6 Aug 22 2003, 10:05 AM

Take time while the window is out, and clean up the seal channel. Use a bit of sandpaper and touch-up paint and fix any bits of rust you might find.

-Rusty

Posted by: rhodyguy Aug 22 2003, 10:16 AM

you should not have to. but when you do you want it to be simple. if you need a wire to cut the bond, fishing one thru and working it around it would be less than fun. my roll of 3m cost me $15. will they pull everything or do you? if you do, you've done 75% of the work. $50 to $100 for a squirt of goop and a window set, is rather steep. i love a 100% price swing in a quote. "how much for an engine?" "5 to 10 grand". that tells me they've never done one.

kevin

Posted by: Lawrence914-6 Aug 22 2003, 10:18 AM

You're right Kevin. (golf)

-Rusty

Posted by: tod914 Aug 22 2003, 11:47 AM

The guy hasnt seen the car. He gave me a "estimate" over the phone. Im sure it won't be more than $50.00.
He said they would clean and prep both the glass and sill. He said they have specific chemicals for that to achieve better bonding. Everything is out. I also cleaned my carpets. They look like new. I put them in the tub with hot water and oxy scrub. That product worked great. The carpets had all this red dust imbedded in them from being a Texas car. Now they look just like the areas that were hidden from exposure (under the inner threshold trim). Im still toying around with the idea of 3m. I will have to ponder over that during the weekend.

you guys seem 50/50 on butyl v urethane

any1 have a two headed coin i can flip?

Posted by: seanery Aug 22 2003, 11:57 AM

before you put that window in, think about a removable rear window.
Kinda like the Del Sol had. Actually more like the early 70's vettes had.

could be cool and the sound could be glorious!

Posted by: airsix Aug 22 2003, 12:23 PM

del Sol's and vettes don't have an engine right behind the window. After a short trip you will be deaf and unless you don't have any oil leaks you'll have a nice new 20w-50 hair treatment.

-Ben M.

Posted by: seanery Aug 22 2003, 12:26 PM

still, it could be fun!

Posted by: Dave_Darling Aug 22 2003, 03:22 PM

It isn't. Trust me on that... Well, I take it back. It was fun for about 10 minutes. Then it got really old. That's when I decided that I didn't really have to paint any of the channel around the window, just clean it the rest of the way up.

I used some towels between the seat backs and the window to hold the window in overnight. I cleaned the window itself with a razor blade, then Windex, then acetone. Similar treatment for the channel in the body, though I may have used different chemicals. I let the window sit out in the sun for a while, and hit the body (and then the butyl tape once it was in the channel) with heat from a hair dryer. Kept heating the edges of the window when I put it in as well.

No problem as yet with the window, and (before I parked the car) it held up to some ferocious heat...

--DD

Posted by: rhodyguy Aug 22 2003, 07:08 PM

well here's where planing counts. did you expose bare metal on the flange while cleaning? oh yes, the primer and color match paint wall is next.

kevin

Posted by: tod914 Aug 22 2003, 07:57 PM

I was real carefull when cleaning. As a matter of fact, spent the better part of the day detailing the floor pans and everything else I will never see once it's back together. Found a local glass shop that still has butyl tape. I will talk to him on monday. The shop owner was saying they are no longer allowed to use butyl tape due to saftey concerns. But, it shouldnt be too difficult to get him to do it. Last time I didnt heat the windshield like Dave did. Maybe that was part of the reason why the seam broke loose on the bottom.

Posted by: Elliot Cannon Aug 22 2003, 11:34 PM

Hi,
I went to a car glass installer and asked if they could sell me some butyl tape and they just gave me a roll of it. So I guess I'll give it a try. Won't cost anything but a few hours work.
Cheers, Elliot

Posted by: rhodyguy Aug 23 2003, 06:02 AM

and you're $50 to $100 to the good. don't forget to start at the top.

kevin