Hey all, Bob aka hotdgr, is driving a car he purchased in Monterey CA to his home in Tampa FL. He stayed with us last night and headed east from Phoenix this morning.
I just got off the phone with him, and he broke down out side Benson Arizona.
Here is his problem. Stock 1.7L with D-jet. Turns the key and no fuel pump sound and the starter does not crank. Bob is a FAA licensed airplane mechanic and says that he went through all the connections, checked the fuses, checked and replace some relays. Right now he is stumped. I told him I would post here and ask for input, or you can call his cell phone directly and talk with him at: 813-610-0056.
Bob is a real nice guy, lets do what we can to help him get back on the road. New Mexico, Texas teeners, and points east, keep up with his travels and hook up with him for eats or offer any assistance he may need.
Looks like Benson is East of Tucon. Anyone in the area?
just talked to Bob. Jeff B. or someone that is good with the wiring please give Bob a call. I think his relay board is failing. He may need to jumper the starter switch and fuel pump.
Bob has a hotel and a Dennys. His car is in the local repair garage lot. So he's ok for now. He's not on the side of the road anyway.
tell him to somehow ground the pin on the relay board like this...
there is a group of four wires that power the ECU. well one is the ground to turn the fuel pump on...
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you want to ground the lower left pin to the ground of the car....
this should make the pump run when the key is turned.
b
It's hard to test the connections by yourself. but does the starter switch wiring go through the relay board? I think it does. If that's the case, I think he can jumper past the board in a pinch but he will needto get hooked up with a replacement board along the way. Anyone on his route have parts?
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jan 18 2006, 06:50 PM) |
tell him to somehow ground the pin on the relay board like this... there is a group of four wires that power the ECU. well one is the ground to turn the fuel pump on... | | | | you want to ground the lower left pin to the ground of the car.... this should make the pump run when the key is turned. b |
well i usually have problems that come in pairs....could his starter be on the way out?
what if he push-starts it?
thats what i had to do for a week or three....
b
when my 1.7 is acting weird i just pull the body ground off and put it back on and it magicly fixes it self
i dont know whats wrong but about 80% of the time that fixes it
not my head lights go up and down about 2 months ago they didnt, then i pulled the ground and now the do
but seriously before when they thing wouldnt crank or anthing i did that and then it worked
No fuel pump AND no crank? Thank kinda sounds like the ignition switch - or the power supply to it.
The starter does go through the relay board but it is just passed through. The relay board is just a connector.
i have two ground straps for redundancy...
one on the tranny and one on the engine....
but I guess it wouldnt hurt trying that....what does he have to lose?
maybe the relay is shot?
b
QUOTE (swl @ Jan 18 2006, 07:00 PM) |
No fuel pump AND no crank? Thank kinda sounds like the ignition switch - or the power supply to it. The starter does go through the relay board but it is just passed through. The relay board is just a connector. |
when i picked my car up north of seattle and drove it here to phoenix... twice at gas stations it decided it wasnt going to start. I was not happy. I push started it both times. Its never happened since and I am pretty sure it was just that the starter was too hot after driving for hours and hours and hours.
now that i think of it, i'm sure he's probably let it cool off enough, jump that connection and try to start it?
isnt there a ignition fuse on the relay board....?
it sounds like a ignition switch deal....
b
If your really good with wiring call 813-610-0056. Maybe you can walk Bob through the short.
I remember reading a couple years ago about ignition switch failures...maybe he should try to hotwire it
i can be there in 2 hours... i have an entire wiring harness, a relay board that works (but is cracking...) and any tools you could ever need to fix whatever is wrong.....
just left a message for him. I'm up for a road trip. anyone else want to go try and fix it if he calls? I can give it a good 3 hours of tinkering. 4 hours of sleep before work tomorrow = no problem
lets do this....
i'll get him going, snufplugis(sp) can you meet him where you are?
should i call him?
b
how about other switched items - headlight motors? If you have a meter you can check for 12 volts at the coil - it is pretty much a straight run from the ignition switch.
QUOTE (seanery @ Jan 18 2006, 07:12 PM) |
I remember reading a couple years ago about ignition switch failures...maybe he should try to hotwire it |
I called him.
He has a multimeter...that is a blessing
He is gonna check to make sure he has 12 volts at the coil
He said he has tried switching all the relays and he cant get the fuel pump going, but when he jumpers it he can get it going...so that is that plan for that problem...
Now, the non start issue...
he is looking for the ground strap...
and he will check the yellow wire coming from the ignition switch to see that he has 12 volts in the start position...
If he does not, he has wire with him and will make a jump circuit from that pole on the starter to touch the positive pole on the battery...
So worst case, he has a bad ignition switch and a flaky relay board...
If that is the case, he will jumper the fuel pump, and hotwire the starter and get home..
Rich
if he's getting a oil and gen lights, his -ON- position on the switch works....
well, theres also a contact for lights, etc.....its a chance those could work too or not. I've BTDT...in rainy weather w/o wipers was NOT GOOD.
b
QUOTE (rick 918-S @ Jan 18 2006, 08:02 PM) | ||
Dash lights, alt & oil, but no crank and no fuel pump. |
QUOTE (swl @ Jan 18 2006, 07:16 PM) |
how about other switched items - headlight motors? If you have a meter you can check for 12 volts at the coil - it is pretty much a straight run from the ignition switch. |
what about push-starting....
just get out of the car, push it real fast, jump in and drop clutch....
b
QUOTE (r_towle @ Jan 18 2006, 08:18 PM) |
I called him. He has a multimeter...that is a blessing He is gonna check to make sure he has 12 volts at the coil He said he has tried switching all the relays and he cant get the fuel pump going, but when he jumpers it he can get it going...so that is that plan for that problem... Now, the non start issue... he is looking for the ground strap... and he will check the yellow wire coming from the ignition switch to see that he has 12 volts in the start position... If he does not, he has wire with him and will make a jump circuit from that pole on the starter to touch the positive pole on the battery... So worst case, he has a bad ignition switch and a flaky relay board... If that is the case, he will jumper the fuel pump, and hotwire the starter and get home.. Rich |
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jan 18 2006, 10:20 PM) |
what about push-starting.... just get out of the car, push it real fast, jump in and drop clutch.... b |
QUOTE (r_towle @ Jan 18 2006, 08:22 PM) | ||
we talked about his new parking procedures for the rest of the trip... I told him that if its in good tune, a few feet is all I need to start it up on a hill... He knew what I meant and will look for the correct parking on the way home... Rich |
If anyone calls him again get the name of his hotel. I'm working on finding my wire diagrams. I think I can fax him at his hotel.
I am less than an hour away from there. If he needs a part I could rob it from my car to get him going. What does he need ???
I had to "park creatively" for a couple months while driving the 951, nose down
I vote for ignition switch first, then relay board and relay failure. If It were me I would rewire the fuel pump to the positive side of the coil and ground it to the battery body ground. That will then bypass everything and get the pump running. For the starter, I would just bump it with a screw driver from underneath to get it going. If you cross all the terminals then the you can test the power to the starter as well as bypas all the relay's and ignition switch crap, just remember to leave the key in the on position when you bump the starter and the car out of gear. That's what I would do if it were me
Eric
QUOTE (snflupigus @ Jan 18 2006, 07:14 PM) |
i can be there in 2 hours... i have an entire wiring harness, a relay board that works (but is cracking...) and any tools you could ever need to fix whatever is wrong..... just left a message for him. I'm up for a road trip. anyone else want to go try and fix it if he calls? I can give it a good 3 hours of tinkering. 4 hours of sleep before work tomorrow = no problem |
QUOTE (MarkV @ Jan 18 2006, 10:25 PM) |
I am less than an hour away from there. If he needs a part I could rob it from my car to get him going. What does he need ??? |
QUOTE (Eric Taylor @ Jan 18 2006, 10:28 PM) |
I vote for ignition switch first, then relay board and relay failure. If It were me I would rewire the fuel pump to the positive side of the coil and ground it to the battery body ground. That will then bypass everything and get the pump running. For the starter, I would just bump it with a screw driver from underneath to get it going. If you cross all the terminals then the you can test the power to the starter as well as bypas all the relay's and ignition switch crap, just remember to leave the key in the on position when you bump the starter and the car out of gear. That's what I would do if it were me Eric |
lol, yeah at 19 I guess getting down and dirty just becomes a regular thing .
Cool idea about the extra length of cable for the starter or even better the switch, maybe it will have to go in the tool box with frankenstien wiring for the fuel pump.
Eric
QUOTE (rick 918-S @ Jan 18 2006, 08:24 PM) |
If anyone calls him again get the name of his hotel. I'm working on finding my wire diagrams. I think I can fax him at his hotel. |
QUOTE (MarkV @ Jan 18 2006, 07:25 PM) |
I am less than an hour away from there. If he needs a part I could rob it from my car to get him going. What does he need ??? |
QUOTE (gregrobbins @ Jan 18 2006, 07:41 PM) | ||
When I talked to him a couple hours ago, he said the tow truck driver had just dropped him off at the Super 8 motel. Great job of helping him out. Thanks all! |
i discovered on my seattle to phoenix purchase trip that i could start it using reverse! LOL there was no other way.
Correct parking procedures. Funny!
He has not called me back so I either dailed the wrong number and left a message on some strange persons voicemail OR... he's ok enough that he doesnt need my assistance. Guess i'll just keep workin on my own in the garage.
402-659-5882 in case he didnt get my message and someone else talks to him.
I just got off the phone with him. He is checked in to a motel. The car made it to the local garage via flat bed. He won't have a chance to try any of the suggestions until the morning. Doesn't know if he has 12v to the coil. He has been able to jump the relay board to get the fuel pump to run. He is going to call me tomorrow if he needs parts.
He pulled off the road to take a break and look at a map and the car wouldn't turn over. I bet it fires right up in the morning.
Benson is a real small town, one or two exits on I-10. Cable TV at at the hotel is down.
A meter is going to be a good thing to have if someone is going to go help him. There are multiple paths through the switch. Ignition is on one, fuel pump (actually the main power relay) is on another which also feeds the coil. If you can check the coil (pull it off the coil to measure) you can help prove or disprove the ignition switch theory. I suspect the switch because it is the only failure point that is common between the solenoid and the fuel pump.
You can also pull off the 12 wire connecter(back right) from the relay board and look for the solenoid 12 volt on pin 6 (right side 3rd from front).
remember to pull off the feed to the primary on the coil (black and red) if you are going to have the switch turned on doing trouble shooting.
QUOTE (MarkV @ Jan 18 2006, 07:46 PM) |
He has been able to jump the relay board to get the fuel pump to run. . |
I am convinced that any aircooled car can get home with a coat hanger, duct tape, 10 feet of wire, a jack knife, and pantyhose...
Rich
Just talked to Bob again. He is going to the library in the morning to use there internet. I told him about Pelicans wiring diagrams. I gave him my contact numbers incase he can't print from the library I can fax him. Sounds like he has a few options.
I had exactly the same thing happen. No pump, no starter. It was the ignition switch connections. I hot wired the fuel pump off of the coil, used a screwdriver on the starter, and drove it home. It did it again the same day, and I got it going again by jiggleing(sp) the the ignition switch wires. This is on the Black car, which is a 71 with a 72 ignition switch. The wire jiggleing(sp) may not work with the earlier hard wired switch. HTH.
Bump
Ignition Switch.... Keep in mind that when you turn the key
and the lights come on the dash does NOT mean the Ignition switch is always good.
The Ignition switch develops a flat or dead spot in the switch.
so as you slowy turn the switch watch the lights on the Dash.
If at any point they go out the Switch is Bad.
Just something to keep in mind as you try to rule the switch out.
I got a brand new starter with his name on it he gets it here. no switches or relay boards.
Oh wait a minute I just remembered I got a complete harness from Paul URY914 last month.
I'll look to see whats on it.
I am of the opinion that it will start this morning once cooled down.
Also, you can have good contact at the ign setting, but at the start position it won't work....specially if the switch is cracked
If he needs a new ign switch (pain in the ass to change).....VW part 311 905 865A
So, what is that status?
Anyone talk tohim this morning?
Rich
I just talked to him. The starter is bad. The solenoid engages but the starter won't crank. I don't have a spare starter. He is checking with the local parts store.
If you talk to him...make sure the parts store gives him an SR-17X or Lester #16300...
There is another that they try to supply that won't work...period SR-15X / Lester 16450.
Most of the FLAPS can search other stores for availability. So search for FLAPS along I-10 eastbound.
Get the guy to give you a push and haul ass to the next stop. 1.7L should get 350 miles to a tank of gas no sweat. That's alot of FLAPS.
I got a starter hear if he can make it. 20 minute swap including jack up the car and cleaning hands when done.
The local parts store sent one over that doesn't fit. They want $163.00 for it. I called the Auto Zone up the street from my office, they have one in stock for $59.95. So, I guess I am going on a road trip to Benson AZ. Big Daves towing off exit #306.
QUOTE (MarkV @ Jan 19 2006, 10:20 AM) |
The local parts store sent one over that doesn't fit. They want $163.00 for it. I called the Auto Zone up the street from my office, they have one in stock for $59.95. So, I guess I am going on a road trip to Benson AZ. Big Daves towing off exit #306. |
I'm gonna state the obvious here, though a little late in this case. If your gonna make a trip be prepared. I keep a "road bag" in the front trunk. Though given everything in it, it isnt that large it's just a canvas riggers bag. In it I have a small mulitmeter, a set of 6 thru 23 3/8 sockets 3", 6", and 12" extensions, 3/8 ratchet, long and short phillips and regular screw drivers, electrical tape, 25' of wire, butane soldering iron, solder, crimp on connectors, a quart of oil, a pint of brake fluid, a tire plug kit, a 12v air pump, a roll of paper towel, a can of carb/brake cleaner, various sized allen wrenches, dykes, vice grips, needle nose pliers, small hammer, 10" adjustable wrench, pliers, and a small bottle of windex. I also make sure that I have plenty of spare fuses, bulbs and relays in the car as well. gotten stuck one too many times and learned my lesson the hard way.
My best,
Mike D.
If you look at the original thread from Bob, we all had an input to what should be in the trunk for a serious road trip. Your list looks remarkably like mine. Great minds huh?
Nobody carries a frigging starter. I can push a teener to bump start. and have had to wire a 12V lead from the + on the battery to the coil to get me home on an old bug.
Not to mention Bob seems to be a good wrench as evidenced by his ability to figure out what is really broke.
I look forward to him arriving in Mississippi.
QUOTE (MarkV @ Jan 19 2006, 09:20 AM) |
The local parts store sent one over that doesn't fit. They want $163.00 for it. I called the Auto Zone up the street from my office, they have one in stock for $59.95. So, I guess I am going on a road trip to Benson AZ. Big Daves towing off exit #306. |
QUOTE (MarkV @ Jan 19 2006, 10:20 AM) |
The local parts store sent one over that doesn't fit. They want $163.00 for it. I called the Auto Zone up the street from my office, they have one in stock for $59.95. So, I guess I am going on a road trip to Benson AZ. Big Daves towing off exit #306. |
I got to the Autozone & the starter they showed in the book looked wrong to me. So, I took their starter & also bought a starter for a 1971 911T. Bingo, the book was wrong the 911T starter fit & works like a champ.
I think the starter they show in the book is for a bug. It has a long shaft at the nose w/ a new bushing wire tied to it.
Attached image(s)
Dig Daves towing.
Attached image(s)
We had lunch the famous Horse Shoe Cafe. Bob hit I-10 toward New Mexico at about 1:30PM.
Attached image(s)
bad ass!
Did you guys install the starter? or did Big Dave?
Unfortunately, William at big Dave's did it. Bob & I watched him raise & lower the car a couple of times trying to get the top bolt. He kept pushing it back in when he tried to thread the nut from the engine bay. Isn't the nut supposed to be on the starter side?
QUOTE (MarkV @ Jan 19 2006, 03:21 PM) |
Unfortunately, William at big Dave's did it. Bob & I watched him raise & lower the car a couple of times trying to get the top bolt. He kept pushing it back in when he tried to thread the nut from the engine bay. Isn't the nut supposed to be on the starter side? |
On the road again.
I just can't wait to get on the road again.
Breakin down and fixin her up with my new friends
I just can't wait to get on the road again.
I thought so. Bob now has a tail dragger starter on his 1.7. Wings it right over too.
Sure hope he doesn't have any more problems.
QUOTE (MarkV @ Jan 19 2006, 03:13 PM) |
I got to the Autozone & the starter they showed in the book looked wrong to me. So, I took their starter & also bought a starter for a 1971 911T. Bingo, the book was wrong the 911T starter fit & works like a champ. I think the starter they show in the book is for a bug. It has a long shaft at the nose w/ a new bushing wire tied to it. |
QUOTE (SLITS @ Jan 19 2006, 02:51 PM) | ||
Which is why I posted the numbers so they wouldn't get screwed up....the books are wrong. The one they show in the books is for the Bug, but lists the application as also for the 914 manual transmission. It's been that way for years. |
Ok, so you know the difference...SR-17X is listed for an automatic..Lester #16300...0.8 HP essentially...this is the starter supplied with 914s.
The one you settled on is a SR-68X.....Listed for 911s....Lester #16609...essentially the same starter but it's 1.5 HP....will spin a 4 cyl real nice.
QUOTE (gregrobbins @ Jan 18 2006, 07:13 PM) |
Bob is a FAA licensed airplane mechanic.......... |
Happy Happy!!!
Great non-club effort...
QUOTE (SLITS @ Jan 19 2006, 03:14 PM) |
Ok, so you know the difference...SR-17X is listed for an automatic..Lester #16300...0.8 HP essentially...this is the starter supplied with 914s. The one you settled on is a SR-68X.....Listed for 911s....Lester #16609...essentially the same starter but it's 1.5 HP....will spin a 4 cyl real nice. |
Great job Mark!
QUOTE (MarkV @ Jan 19 2006, 04:29 PM) | ||
Autozone uses some kind of proprietary software driven parts program. They told me they didn't have any way to cross reference & make sure it was the right starter. The first starter they gave me was a #16450. The 911T starter they gave me was a #16300. So, maybe he ended up with a 914 starter after all. It's a Duralast with a lifetime warranty & seamed to work fine. |
Great job guys.
Mark
way to fellas!
Great job Mark, Things like this will come back to you 10 fold.
Well, don't know how many stops he has planned.... Like jumping out any more perfectly good airplanes.
If he gets here by Sunday We can go Autocrossing He would have to keep the hammer down for quite awhile though.
QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Jan 19 2006, 04:52 PM) |
If he gets here by Sunday We can go Autocrossing He would have to keep the hammer down for quite awhile though. |
QUOTE (MarkV @ Jan 19 2006, 06:58 PM) | ||
Joe, Help Bob fix his radio, it quit working in CA. |
QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Jan 19 2006, 10:28 PM) |
I think I got a radio from the stripper. Like it is going to do me any good after Tuesday. |
For anyone still following this thread, I made it back home to Tampa bay safe and sound Monday 1/23 about 4:30 p.m. After changing out a suspect plug wire, adding a vacuum line to the advance side of the diaphragm, swapping out a relay and getting hooked up with some spares, I left Joe Ricard's house for the final leg of the trip with no more significant developments. When I get the chance, I need to determine the source for my rough idle...runs like a champ over 1800 RPMs though.
Many, Many thanks to all of you for your help. You guys ROCK!!!
Cool
Later, Don
Bob, I suspect you have a vacuum leak around the throttle body. or a clogged passage in the idle adjustment screw. Or your warm up Auxillary air valve is leaking by. As you seen I could not get the idle adjustment screw to keep the idle steady. it just jumped around and hunted like it had a mind of it's own.
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