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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ starting the tube V8 car
Posted by: byndbad914 Feb 13 2006, 05:35 PM
Disassembled the beast over the past couple of weeks in Orange and then AJ (the guy building the tube chassis) did some minor cutting 
I am getting pretty excited about the project though, should be cool if every crazy idea I have works out... never really know until you start piecing the puzzle together.
All things work on paper, only some things work in reality 
If anyone really cares I will continue to post pics as the progress moves along... here is some starting pics.
BTW, more pics are on my website in the chassis link I have started.
Here is a shot of week1
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Posted by: byndbad914 Feb 13 2006, 05:35 PM
week2
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Posted by: byndbad914 Feb 13 2006, 05:37 PM
week 3... the "minor cutting". BTW, those crap-ass Corbeau seats are gonna be gone - have UltraShields on their way, s/b on my front door roughly Wed.
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Posted by: byndbad914 Feb 13 2006, 05:38 PM
rear shot
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Posted by: johannes Feb 13 2006, 05:39 PM
Weird picture
This is something you don't see every day 
Posted by: turbo914v8 Feb 13 2006, 07:01 PM
Hell yes. Post pictures untill your eyes fall out. We will look. At least I will look ![shocked[1].gif](http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/shocked[1].gif)
Posted by: turbo914v8 Feb 13 2006, 07:07 PM
| QUOTE |
| BTW, more pics are on my website in the chassis link I have started. |
I cant seem to find the pictures. Where are they???
Posted by: Jeroen Feb 13 2006, 07:10 PM
yeah, keep us posted...
looks like a lot of fun!
Posted by: seanery Feb 13 2006, 07:34 PM
Where's the shop where you're doing the work?
Posted by: Root_Werks Feb 13 2006, 07:37 PM
Wow! That is wicked! I love it, keep posting pictures! 
Posted by: Brett W Feb 13 2006, 07:43 PM
Tim,
That looks really similar to where I was a year ago. Aren't plasma cutters great. Glad to hear you are going to get rid of those seats. I remember you talkin about how shitty they were.
What are you going to do for suspension design? Go ahead and center seat it while you are in there.
Posted by: Aaron Cox Feb 13 2006, 09:34 PM
| QUOTE (Brett W @ Feb 13 2006, 06:43 PM) |
| Tim, That looks really similar to where I was a year ago. Aren't plasma cutters great. Glad to hear you are going to get rid of those seats. I remember you talkin about how shitty they were. What are you going to do for suspension design? Go ahead and center seat it while you are in there. |
getting rid of them?
color me interested!
acox914@comcast.net (thx alphster)
Posted by: alpha434 Feb 13 2006, 09:46 PM
Aaron better fix his email.
acox914@comcast.net
Wow. Some minor cutting, huh. How much weight are you shaving off? And I agree with the center seat idea. You're already stuck with super production in SCCA. A middle seat won't boost you out of your class.
Unless you plan on driving it on the street.
Can't wait to see welds.
Posted by: byndbad914 Feb 14 2006, 12:45 PM
Thanks for the interest... it should be quite a project over the next couple of months...
As for more pix, forgot to include my website address - www.geocities.com/byndbad914
If anyone has problems accessing it, please send me a PM. I think those free sites only allow so many "views"?? but I am not sure.
the place doing the work is The Baja Shop in Orange. I know, it isn't going to be a baja, but AJ has done some pretty insane work, his welding is unreal (his MIG literally looks like TIG for instance and I have never seen MIG that good), and he has done a couple of 914 cage cars in the past.
Aaron, I will PM you. Those seats were bought new and just sat in the car and the covering deteriorated, but they could be recovered and would be really nice. They fit the car well and I was going to recover them, but then wanted to add a seat I could add a helmet halo to for the track. I was really pissed that the covering rotted off though...
I moved the seats inboard about 2" - basically to maintain symmetry and line up straight with the pedals, which also meant messing with the steering column mount to straighten it too... I will be keeping 2 seats in the car with the same configuration. The idea is stock doors, stock dash, put door panels back on it with GT style door handles and so forth for a somewhat stock interior look (and to have windows that roll up/down). And on club days I can take the fiance out and give her motion sickness again 
The last day at the track I took her for about 5 laps, the last one I looped it in turn 4 at Big Willow (first time I have ever spun on the track - just her luck) and we came in. She was about to hurl
Suspension is the RSR fronts I already have and reinforced rear trailing arms. I know, I know, the whole trailing arm thing will open up a series of "why would you do that" posts.
Posted by: Andyrew Feb 14 2006, 12:50 PM
If everything else is reinforced or stronger, then it makes sense to reinforce the trailing arms...
Cool car! I wish I had the time and money to do what your doing!!!
Good luck! wcc 07?
Andrew
Posted by: Jeroen Feb 14 2006, 01:10 PM
byndbad914,
if you go to "my controls" at the top of the page, you can enter the address of your website, and it'll appear as an extra button (like e-mail and PM) below all your posts
if you have trouble with your regular website, you can also use your "blog" here on the clubsite (click the "blog" button underneath your own posts)
Posted by: byndbad914 Feb 14 2006, 03:21 PM
thanks for the help Jeroen, I added the URL and checked the www button and it seems to work.
As for WCC '07, I am more hopeful to have it done closer to '06! Not that I will probably be able to make the trek up to Oregon. We will see.
Andyrew, I wish I had the money to do what I am doing as well. Just kinda gotta pick your poison I guess - when I was 16 my dad looked at me and said, "If it meant you would have to wear a Tshirt with holes in it and the same pair of jeans everyday, you would if that's what it took to have a Countach" (mid-80s when the Countach was the 
- just saw a TopGear episode about the exact thing a while back). That was one of those funny conversations to which I replied "Yes" and have since managed to live up to it
Talked to AJ at lunch, the rear section is now officially gone, he worked the firewall area a bit more and the 2x3 chromoly will hopefully be in the shop by Friday
Posted by: Andyrew Feb 14 2006, 03:30 PM
06? really? Im hoping to have mine done by 06... or... at least in paint, and some tubes in it, and a little lighter... and some other stuff..
yet... I keep changing things... lol
I've had my car since I was 15, Im 19 now, and my 4 year anniversery of owning the car is coming up...
I give you major props for having an 06 goal!
are you planning on attending the wcc 06?
Many nice cars will be finishing about then!
(I only wish we could drive on the track... )
Posted by: byndbad914 Feb 17 2006, 08:12 PM
Some more work to the car this last week. Just a little cleanup of the rear. You can go to this link on my website to see more photos, but I will include one teaser.
http://www.geocities.com/byndbad914/update_1.htm
Looks like 2"x3" chromoly may not even be available, so if I have to go to round bar for the tube car, I am going to have to give up on making the body removable and just tie everything together really well... it would be much nicer to have a framed car since the additional tubing becomes merely for safety and not rigidity, but oh well.
Oh yeah, and when we get the basic frame laid out and see where the engine will ultimately sit, if there is room to do it, I am going to go with 935-style rear trailing arms... better adjustability and stability in adjustment, and less toe gains/losses through travel if I understand correctly. But this assumes I will have room to build some inner camber boxes and not hit the dry sump pump or alternator. Just have to use lotsa butter I guess, maybe a shoehorn, some KY and talk really dirty to it...
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Posted by: seanery Feb 17 2006, 08:19 PM
is this an ex-Otto's car?
Posted by: byndbad914 Feb 17 2006, 09:50 PM
No, Otto still has his yellow 914 with the 6cyl AFAIK. I swing by there every once in a while for parts and look it over periodically...
This was a stocker 72 I bought about 10yrs ago, drove for a few, then tore it down for the V8 project. Then it sat for about 7 yrs while I finished school, went back to school, had a business, etc etc.
Posted by: Brett W Feb 17 2006, 11:46 PM
Hey Tim, if you are looking for Chromoly, check out The Chassis Shop. They have 2x1 Chromoly tubing for 7.44 per foot. And round is 3.36. Other than ease of fit up why square tubing for anything other than the rockers and perimeter floor and why Chromoly. Steel can be had cheaper and is easier to weld. Plus it is just as stong if you are using the same size tubing.
Posted by: GTPatrick Feb 18 2006, 02:21 AM
Brett, . . . Which " Chassis Shop " ? Google showed up more than one Chassis Shop. 
Posted by: 914_1.8t Feb 18 2006, 03:22 AM
| QUOTE (Brett W @ Feb 17 2006, 09:46 PM) |
| Hey Tim, if you are looking for Chromoly, check out The Chassis Shop. They have 2x1 Chromoly tubing for 7.44 per foot. And round is 3.36. Other than ease of fit up why square tubing for anything other than the rockers and perimeter floor and why Chromoly. Steel can be had cheaper and is easier to weld. Plus it is just as stong if you are using the same size tubing. |
They don't have every thing in their catalog in stock....I was trying to get some 1.5" tubing.
But they can order it if they don't have it. They mentioned anywhere from 2 weeks or longer to get in orders.
Their address is chassisshop.com
Posted by: Brett W Feb 18 2006, 07:49 AM
I called yesterday to see if the prices on steel change daily and the guy I talked to said, "no". If I had a 2005 catalog then those were the prices on their materials.
Posted by: byndbad914 Feb 21 2006, 05:16 PM
1x2 would be too small... can't find 2x3 so I may just have to go round.
Chromoly is stronger than mild steel... so I can use a thinner wall on chromoly for the same strength, decreasing the weight about 30%.
I wanted to build a "frame" car so that technically, you could run the car without any cage. Then the additional cage would just be for safety not rigidity. For rigidity on a round tube car, you have to run a lot of overhead structure to tie everything together (or use large diam tube which would just look wierd) which means for the same rigidity in a 1-3/4" perimeter chassis v. 2x3 box frame I would have a bunch of bars in the interior to crawl around and get in the way, which I am trying to get away from.
Was a good idea on paper 
Now that nobody seems to stock it, and I don't need a factory order qty, I will probably be caging the hell out of it.
Posted by: Brett W Feb 21 2006, 06:00 PM
Why 2X3 tubing. I build your perimeter out of 2x4 .065 mild steel then build the rest with 2x2 x.045 chromoly. Your "cage will have to be built of at least 1 3/8 .095 or 1.5 .095 wall alloy tubing. That means main roll hoops, halo bars, rear down bars, etc. Since your car is built to Super Production rules it must meet all GT spec safety rules to be legal to play in SCCA or at SCCA events.
What is the predicted weight? There is nothing wrong with combining mild steel and chromoly. Take a look at how the Trans AM cars are built the chassis is all square tubing and the main hoops are all round.
Check out http://www.racefabinc.com/gt-1_page_2.htm
Posted by: byndbad914 Feb 21 2006, 07:01 PM
the chassis builder wants to steer completely clear of DOM. That stuff cracks over time. Also, .065" wall would be way too thin for my taste. If I used DOM, it would be .120" wall minimum. Chromoly would crack too if over stressed, but in terms of fatigue, alloy equivalent cross sections (thinner wall to match strength) seem to hold up much better.
I don't have a weight prediction. I am not that concerned with it surprisingly - I just like to beat the out of the car and have fun, but I am not looking to be the lightest, fastest guy out there. I want the car to be rigid and last a long time (not fatigue crack), be safe in the event of a mishap, but not be so "barred-up" I look like Bo Duke just trying to run down to the burger joint for a cruise night or need to take the top off to make getting in easier.
I can be dead last in class track time and have fun. In fact, at club events I usually let everyone go ahead of me entering the track and stick back a bit and then just beat the crap out of it and catch up so I can run as fast as I can and not deal with anybody being slower, or blocking anybody that is faster. If anyone comes up behind me, I wave them by as soon as is safe and slow down as they go around.
If the car turns out to be 2300lbs again, I won't sweat it. Heck 2500lbs I wouldn't sweat. 1800lbs would be sweet, but not my priority.
Oh yeah, why 2x3 -- basically that was thought to be the largest size available in chromoly and I wanted 2x4. Apparently anything over 1x2 doesn't seem to exist in chromoly though. We are still looking, but are going to give up by the end of the week and go with plan B if we don't find it.
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 6 2006, 10:33 PM
couple updated pics as of last week - threw them on the bird board while the club was down, so a couple of you have already seen them. AJ will hopefully have the interior cage framed out this week - we will see Wed night. He leaves for the San Felipe 250 Thursday (running his insane tube chassis Ranger this weekend) so I will be on hold until next week 
No biggie.
Current idea is to cut the trailing arms down to just hubs then build uprights from them. Then there will be 5 links going to each hub for a nice independent rear end (2 forward links, 2 perp links, one more for toe) so I have a complete array of options (rear caster adjustment (though I don't know if that would really matter since the wheels don't turn??), rear camber and toe will be independent of each other, wheelbase could be changed, track width could be changed (within reason w/o screwing up camber gain), so forth... Getting rather excited about the project!
Put the dry sump pan on the engine over the weekend, so it is ready to set into the car. He might have the engine in place as early as next Friday - hope so.
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Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 6 2006, 10:35 PM
The rear taillight panel will be easily removed, so the engine/trans will come out from the top... that under-the-car crap is for the birds! 
And it was a real beotch to get the car high enough to clear the hi-rise intake and carb.
Oh yeah, all the crap on top of the car is my numerous drawings of cage proposals, the Excellence opened up to Roger Sheridan's car, my engineering analysis pictures showing chassis design v. deflection and stress (read that as NERD), and anything that I ran across on the internet over the past 5 months of planning this project! I literally have nearly a full binder of internet pictures I have taken to him. AJ is probably at that "goddamn engineers" point
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Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 20 2006, 05:19 PM
Here is an update shot - not a lot to see at the moment, but the interior cage is basically framed out. The top door bars will be lowered to fit between the window crank and door handle (everything is just tacked right now until I "agree" to weld). The downtubes will go through the stock vents (dash will need a little work to fit). The top hoop fits the targa incredibly well, but I couldn't seem to take a pic that didn't turn out blurry (too much caffiene apparently).
I put the trans and clutch all back together, have the dry sump pan on and so forth, so AJ should be fitting the engine today and said he is going to get cranking this week on finishing out the interior cage and mounting the engine/trans assy.
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Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 20 2006, 05:23 PM
here is an updated shot of engine/trans - exceptionally clean trans care of CRC Brakleen - that stuff is straight from heaven! The trans was filthy because the overflow puked onto it the first trial day and it collected grime ever since. Brakleen made it shinier than when it went it I think
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Posted by: Andyrew Mar 20 2006, 05:53 PM
Awesome dude!
Posted by: turbo914v8 Mar 21 2006, 10:12 AM
I can’t believe my eyes. I am truly sick as I check often through the day for updates. Simply put WICKED. 
Posted by: Jeroen Mar 21 2006, 10:28 AM
very cool project... but those tubes look heavy
Posted by: Britain Smith Mar 21 2006, 11:25 AM
Why are you running the tranny inverted instead of just flipping the diff?
-Britain
Posted by: Bigbohr Mar 21 2006, 04:36 PM
... maybe to get a lower CG ...
Are you using a dry sump with that inverted tranny?
If not, are you not concerned about the angle of the axles? This is not meant as a criticism. I'm looking at the same problem ...
Posted by: Bigbohr Mar 21 2006, 04:38 PM
ok, I see now you're using a dry sump. Never mind my question ...
Nice project I must say!!!!
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 21 2006, 05:03 PM
Jeroen - bottom "square" outline in the interior is 2" OD .120" wall chromoly. Only 'heavy' part - everything else is 1-3/4" or 1-1/2" .095 wall chromoly. The whole base when done and welded should only be 148lbs, so even with some extra thick structure surrounding my butt (personal choice for added safety) that is still quite light. The overhead cage is 1-1/2", front and rear structure will be a mixture of 1-3/4" and 1-1/2".
Britain - I bought the trans with low miles for $2200 and it is essentially "free" to invert it. I would wrap up another $3-$4K in a ring flip by the time it is all said and done - it takes some machining and such to make that happen in a 930 - not as easy as a 915. Also, I can run the engine lower in the car as BigBohr mentioned.
BigBohr hit in on the head about axle angles though v. dry sump necessity. Originally (as in 1 month ago) the car was wet sump with a "short" 7-1/2" full sump pan and the pan was LOW to the ground and the axles were angled a fair amount. Now, the dry sump gains the room needed to make the engine/trans closer to even with the bottom of the car, then I am raising the combo about 1-1/2" in the tube car. That 1-1/2" in engine height will ultimately translate to an almost 4" shorter ride height 
let me explain that better... the wet sump pan was the low point in the car. To have a 3" ground clearance at the pan, I had to have a near 7" ground clearance at the car underbody screwed up all the suspension geometry a lot. My last track day back in January, I just "went for it" and dropped the car to about 1-3/4" clearance at the pan and it handled a ton better. Hence the "screw this noise, I am going tube chassis and dry sump" decision.
Posted by: Bigbohr Mar 21 2006, 07:09 PM
... free to invert ... is what i thought too. Until I looked at prices for a dry sump pump, pan and reservoir Seems nearly the same total cost as having the ring gear flipped (I thought that was about $1200). What are you using for oil pump? Did you find anything for a reasonable price?
John
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 21 2006, 07:49 PM
| QUOTE (Bigbohr @ Mar 21 2006, 05:09 PM) |
| ... free to invert ... is what i thought too. Until I looked at prices for a dry sump pump, pan and reservoir :wacko: Seems nearly the same total cost as having the ring gear flipped (I thought that was about $1200). What are you using for oil pump? Did you find anything for a reasonable price? John |
I got a used 3-stage pan for $100 and nice used tank for $150. The pumps you can buy refurbed 3 or 4 stage (which is completely fine btw) for around $600-$700 IIRC, but don't quote me on that or where to get it. I would just check around with some of the pump suppliers as sometimes they have these for sale. I have a good hookup on race parts, so I can get my 4-stage pump new pretty cheap (can't say price of course). I haven't gotten mine yet, but will be going with a Stock Car Products pump. I just need to basically call one day in advance when I will be in the Brea area and pick it up. Even without discounts, I would recommend the SCP pumps for reliability and price - used a few on NASCAR stuff for years and work great.
Anyway, with the billet remote oil filter adapter (I will be using the System 1 HP-6 mondo filter), billet adapter plate in the block (both from Barnes in Torrance, CA - good price is paying cash and will call it) and all the plumbing, I would say $1200 is right in there. HOWEVER, the cost of a used pan and tank could be a wash with whatever pan you might be buying for your car if the pan is new (?)
So, if it is equal cost to do either, I would still dry sump and lower the engine (and always know I have an awesome oiling system in the car). The lower cg will help a ton. I think the machining quotes I got were in the $1500 range for the 930, but then it is apart, so good time to replace synchros and carrier bearings and so forth... $3K pretty quick. Shoulda been clearer in my earlier post.
Of course, that all applies to tracking the car IMO. For a streeter/hot rod kinda setup with a mild 350 and so forth, I would have so much less in the engine and so forth I would invert and rebuild the trans for $3K and be able to use off the shelf adapter bars, cable shifters, etc. Also, may be hard to have room for the lower crank drive "mandrel" with a stock firewall in the car... keep that in mind because that is why I originally went wet sump.
BTW to Andy, Paul and so forth.. thanks for the votes of confidence!
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 23 2006, 12:41 PM
here is a shot of the upper hoop - kinda hard to see with the lighting, but the flash looked like crap. Still can't seem to get an image that isn't a little blurry with my digital camera. Twitchy sucker...
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Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 23 2006, 12:43 PM
better shot with engine and so forth - will be a rather menacing air cleaner in the rearview mirror! Notice how far forward the engine has come and the mandrel intrusion - custom firewall was needed for sure!
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Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 23 2006, 12:45 PM
and an overall shot from the rear - AJ will start laying out the rear over the next few days and hopes to have that all in place by this Saturday. The rearward main bars will drop a little and the engine will go down a bit too (just sitting on some wood blocks right now that are a bit taller than the final install will be).
So, apparently Andy gets a lot of crap about his pics being blurry - I think I am going to be taking some of that heat for him!
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Posted by: Brett W Mar 23 2006, 09:26 PM
Check the condition of the batteries in your camera. Some cameras will have a problem taking clear pictures if the batteries are on the way out.
What bolt pattern are your wheels? You may have some luck using the ZR2 hubs for your rear uprights.
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 23 2006, 09:38 PM
hmmm Brett, thanks for the tip on the batteries - the little battery light was blinking last night and I was trying to "beat the clock" and I didn't correlate that low batteries could cause that problem.
The current wheels have 2 patterns - 5 on 5 and 5 on 4-1/2. The Bassetts I want to get are available in both, so I am trying to decide on what pattern I want to make adapters (5 on 130mm doesn't quite match 5 on 5 so I am worried about breaking a stud if I keep it that way).
5 on 4-1/2 would open up a much larger range of aftermarket wheel selections since it's a standard Ford pattern...
Posted by: Andyrew Mar 23 2006, 10:14 PM
Also, take pictures with flash, or get a tripod.
Flash will take it, but if you cant get the light without reflecting, the camera needs to be still.. Whenever we go to shows, we put the camera on the tripod, and only have one leg of it out.. then we can take quick pics.
Posted by: Brett W Mar 24 2006, 08:03 AM
The ZR2 Blazer is a 5x5 pattern which will allow you to use NASCAR wheels as well as any of the GT1 16 in alloys, plus any of the Vette, Camaro and other GM wheels.
Posted by: yarin Mar 24 2006, 10:13 AM
Dude, you are building a car around an engine. I love it!!
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 24 2006, 04:06 PM
| QUOTE (yarin @ Mar 24 2006, 08:13 AM) |
| Dude, you are building a car around an engine. I love it!! :trophy: |
you hit it right on the head! That is exactly how I described it to AJ
When I was about 13-14yrs old, my uncle who was into Hot Rods (kinda where I got it from) thought I was nuts and told me "you're the kinda kid that would bolt a Big Block to a skateboard" and it sorta stuck with me.
Andy - I have tried flash and tend to get "wash" in my pix (it that makes any sense) - it is too bright. Then I would have to learn how to use my camera to actually mess with the shutter timing and such. The shots you are seeing are actually at night in an "OK" lit shop - so you can see the camera will flood a lot of light into the photos already.
I think it is the batteries since the last two times are the only times I have had this blurry issue, and the batteries were starting to flash that first time and was flashing the whole time Wed night. I will get new batteries today to have for tomorrow's update at the shop and the CFOS.
Brett - I will google those uprights and sheck 'em out. Thanks for the tip. (EDIT) actually do you have a good link to check them out a bit online? I googled and didn't know what a ZR2 was - apparently I get ads for a bizillion (not just a million billion, a bizillion!) Blazers.
Posted by: Aaron Cox Mar 24 2006, 04:15 PM
you are insane!
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 27 2006, 01:52 PM
and now for the weekend update... overall rear iso shot. AJ lowered the rearward tubes, curved the bottom reinforcement upward to even out the look per my request (you can see a very "squared off" lower last update.
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Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 27 2006, 01:56 PM
Jane you ignorant... anyway, here is the sprint car header I was using before - except now it looks custom made for the car. That was somewhat arbitrary, the tubes gotsta be where the tubes gotsta be, but the header looks great IMO.
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Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 27 2006, 01:58 PM
tailpiece will be flanged to allow removal to get engine and trans out from the top. Tacked for now as a placeholder.
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Posted by: andys Mar 27 2006, 02:20 PM
| QUOTE (byndbad914 @ Mar 27 2006, 11:56 AM) |
| Jane you ignorant... anyway, here is the sprint car header I was using before - except now it looks custom made for the car. That was somewhat arbitrary, the tubes gotsta be where the tubes gotsta be, but the header looks great IMO. |
What brand of sprintcar headers are those; Schoenfled? Did you make any mod's to them? The catalog pictures look like they'd fit a 914V8 very well, and they are reasonably priced.
Andys
Posted by: Root_Werks Mar 27 2006, 02:30 PM
Looks great!
Posted by: turbo914v8 Mar 27 2006, 03:02 PM
It's nice to see my dream car being built right before my eyes. 
Too bad it not mine 
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 27 2006, 03:48 PM
| QUOTE (andys @ Mar 27 2006, 12:20 PM) | ||
What brand of sprintcar headers are those; Schoenfled? Did you make any mod's to them? The catalog pictures look like they'd fit a 914V8 very well, and they are reasonably priced. Andys |
Actually I did have them modified a bit when I bought them... here is the description.
They are Schoenfeld headers for a SBC sprint car
When I got them, they hit the inside mount point ("dog ear") where the stock trailing arm is. Turns out, they gave me some bad info over the phone on dimensions. So, I sent them back and had them cut 1" off the front and 1-1/2" off the rear. You take more off the rear to make them mount parallel - turns out for a sprint car, they angle the end out a bit to follow the frame. Don't want/need that for a 914. Cost me and extra $100 to Schoenfeld for the custom work. In the end though, they are much, much nicer looking than any "shorty with a 180 bend back over the rear axles" setup I have seen on the market.
Nice thing about sprinter headers are they have a very short "drop" to them so they go right under the rear axles but don't drag on the ground. You just slip mount 3-1/2" mufflers right over the secondary and they are flush with the back of the car. Kinda loud though open header (depends a bit on engine of course; mine hits pretty hard). The mufflers I have are very high flow and actually do an incredible job of sound reduction to my surprise, so I highly recommend them. A more streetable 350 would probably sound awesome without being insanely loud.
Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Mar 27 2006, 05:01 PM
I also used Schoenfeld headers. I used model #151 these are shorter than yours collector ends about 6" before the axle and tuck in tighter to the engine.
I've got 1 5/8"primary tubes with a 3" collector. All I had to do was have a muffler shop put 2 bends in a short pipe to mount the mufflers.
I put these on after using some block hugger shorty headers. After installing the full length Schoenfeld headers my engine came alive.
Tube frame is looking GREAT...............................
Bob
Posted by: Mike T Mar 27 2006, 05:11 PM
| QUOTE (turbo914v8 @ Mar 27 2006, 01:02 PM) |
| It's nice to see my dream car being built right before my eyes. :wub: Too bad it not mine ;) :D |
That looks amazing. Great work...
![popcorn[1].gif](http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/popcorn[1].gif)
Mike T
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 27 2006, 05:32 PM
thanks for all the kind words to those of you out there following along and appreciating my form of insanity. 
I wasn't sure about using a baja shop to build a 914, but I have to admit, I think AJ's fresh perspective is really paying off for me. It isn't "out of the box" per se, but just a different box and I think maybe a better box. He has had some great ideas thus far and doesn't argue with my ideas like a "I have done this a 1000 times and that is how it is going to be" chassis guy might. He doesn't argue, but doesn't always agree either
I am really looking forward to seeing how the rear comes out when it is 5-linked. I kept talking trailing arms and he just looked at me and said "what about a 5-link - I will do it for the same $ since it will be easier in the long run, and I think will work way better than any trailing arm setup". I don't know if you would get that from a 914 specialist - hard to say.
Bob, those secondaries are definitely short! I am sure they fit good though - for mine I would be a little concerned about the midrange with such a short secondary. Of course, V8 in a 914 - who needs bottom end and midrange If you had a shorty before, though, I can believe they made a nice difference on your power throughout the powerband!
Posted by: Dr. Roger Mar 27 2006, 06:07 PM
| QUOTE (BIGKAT_83 @ Mar 27 2006, 04:01 PM) |
| I also used Schoenfeld headers. I used model #151 these are shorter than yours collector ends about 6" before the axle and tuck in tighter to the engine. I've got 1 5/8"primary tubes with a 3" collector. All I had to do was have a muffler shop put 2 bends in a short pipe to mount the mufflers. I put these on after using some block hugger shorty headers. After installing the full length Schoenfeld headers my engine came alive. Tube frame is looking GREAT............................... Bob |
i agree..... "they came alive"?????
i don't even have 75 miles on my car yet and i'm thinkin' of getting some long tube headers......
byndbad914,
your car kick serious @$$.
can i get in line for a spin once she's done????
Posted by: racerx7 Mar 27 2006, 06:18 PM
It looks awesome.
For what your doing, you could have made anything. Why did you choose a 914? Was it just
for the serial # so it would be easy to register and not have to smog it?
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 27 2006, 06:19 PM
| QUOTE (Dr. Roger @ Mar 27 2006, 04:07 PM) |
| byndbad914, your car kick serious @$$. can i get in line for a spin once she's done???? B) |
careful how you phrase those questions - I have raced old Mustangs, my truck and a few other various projects and I have only spun one time - my last time out in the 914
That low polar moment is something else I gotta tell you. Never experienced how that feels until last track day. Man, when they go, they GO and you just sorta hold on and enjoy the ride both feet in.That said, when it is all done and you are out at a track day where I am at and passengers are allowed, I will give you a ride no problem.
Posted by: Brett W Mar 27 2006, 10:29 PM
I was wrong on the Blazer/ZR2 bolt pattern it is a 5x4.75in pattern. The bigger trucks use the 5x5 but I can't seem to find a four wheel drive setup that has the bigger bolt pattern.
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 29 2006, 02:32 PM
| QUOTE (Brett W @ Mar 27 2006, 08:29 PM) |
| I was wrong on the Blazer/ZR2 bolt pattern it is a 5x4.75in pattern. The bigger trucks use the 5x5 but I can't seem to find a four wheel drive setup that has the bigger bolt pattern. |
...did you say steak? NO, MIStake - big mistake... awww see, you went and got me all excited.
Brett - just reminded me of Deuce Bigalow - do you have any links/photos of what those uprights look like anyway?
Also, I's orrdud my wee-uls tuday (about my best southern NASCAR accent)
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Posted by: Joe Sharp Mar 29 2006, 06:48 PM
A friend of mine stopped by the Baja Shop and took these.
:PERMAGRIN: Joe
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Posted by: Joe Sharp Mar 29 2006, 06:50 PM
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Posted by: Joe Sharp Mar 29 2006, 06:51 PM
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Posted by: Joe Sharp Mar 29 2006, 06:53 PM
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Posted by: Joe Sharp Mar 29 2006, 06:56 PM
They build some baadd ass stuff...
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Posted by: Joe Sharp Mar 29 2006, 06:57 PM
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Posted by: Joe Sharp Mar 29 2006, 06:58 PM
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Posted by: Joe Sharp Mar 29 2006, 07:00 PM
This one looks like it's been on it's nose.
:PERMAGRIN: Joe
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Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 29 2006, 07:10 PM
| QUOTE (racerx7 @ Mar 27 2006, 04:18 PM) |
| For what your doing, you could have made anything. Why did you choose a 914? Was it just for the serial # so it would be easy to register and not have to smog it? |
Joe - nice. Small world eh? I think I might have met him actually, I was working on the car a couple weeks ago and a guy asked if I would mind him taking some pics periodically to show a friend with a 914... that must be you
racerx7 - sorry for the late response, didn't catch this question when you posted... the question is a little unclear to me. I think you are specifically asking why I chose a 914 moreso than model year v. smog. I chose the 914 because
- number one is the mid-engine configuration
- I kinda like how they look, especially flared out with some big tires
- lightweight and compact v. a Pantera, which I was also heavily debating
- you can shoehorn V8s in them and they don't look butchered when you are done - more like it coulda been an option.
- there are lotsa aftermarket goodies out there for these cars, and what you can't find, 911 stuff will probably fit, then you have a whole other library of parts catalogs to rummage through on the toilet
- the power to weight ratio when this is all done with be just over 4lb/HP, which is insanely low and makes for an unreal driving experience. I would have a hard time getting that in a Pantera.
Originally I wasn't planning to go full tube chassis btw. In terms of smog and registration, I already had a 72 car, but even if I didn't, I would have been certain to buy a smog exempt one for easy registration. It is nice to be registered for the street as the car insurance is easier to obtain without a lot of questions asked about the car itself.
For the next car (yes, I have a short attention span and will probably be "over" this car within a few years) I will probably build a 1970 Mustang Fastback in similar fashion - tube chassis front to rear with stock doors, dash, all the working lights and such, but with a more streetable 462 cube small block (4.185" bore/4.2" stroke) hyd roller cam motor as a daily driver. Easy 500HP/550 lb-ft setup with full Nascar front and rear clips with a 3-link quick change rearend. Yes, I said daily driver.
Can you tell how short my attention span is yet? Not even done with one car and already laying out the second one...
Posted by: turbo914v8 Mar 29 2006, 07:13 PM
Wow cool pic's. I may have to take an early vacation and visit you and your 914.
Posted by: Mueller Mar 29 2006, 07:15 PM
| QUOTE (Joe Sharp @ Mar 29 2006, 05:48 PM) |
| A friend of mine stopped by the Baja Shop and took these. :PERMAGRIN: Joe |
they didn't make you sign an NDA form??
Posted by: Brett W Mar 29 2006, 10:32 PM
I am back with more info. The C5 and C6 use a 5x5 bolt pattern hub just like the ZR2. I am going to be taking the wheels off my old man's Brand new ZO6 this weekend to see what I can use from the rear suspension.
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 30 2006, 03:38 PM
quick midweek updates - not much to see, he just started framing out the front.
Brett - turns out I mentioned the ZR2 stuff to AJ and asked if he knew what I was talking about and he said "yeah, that is the mini-stub stuff I have been trying to tell you about" 
So he had shown me some of the aftermarket stuff they have been using a ton of on bajas - apparently it has the GM hubs and such.
It would cost too much to convert over at this point - if I was going from scratch it might be different. But, because I am using the late turbo axles and such, I would have to change all of that out and so forth. Down the road if I have issues with the uprights he fabs or something, I can easily convert to that then, you know, when I am rich and famous and such.
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Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 30 2006, 03:39 PM
tubing passing through the old vent areas. The car metal will ultimately be removed that surrounds the tubing - we just kept in in to have a reference of where the dash vent hole will be in the end.
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Posted by: Aaron Cox Mar 30 2006, 04:44 PM
its lookin sweet.....
AA
Posted by: Brett W Mar 30 2006, 05:39 PM
I was figuring you would use them on the rear uprights you were fabbing. I have noticed that the Baja boys overprice the hell out of those pieces. You can do the machining on the stock peices your self and adapt them to your axles. Take the stock ZR2 stub and machine it to accept a bolt on CV as opposed to a tripod. I am going to check out the Corvette parts this weekend.
Posted by: racerx7 Mar 30 2006, 06:03 PM
| QUOTE (byndbad914 @ Mar 29 2006, 05:10 PM) | ||
racerx7 - sorry for the late response, didn't catch this question when you posted... the question is a little unclear to me. I think you are specifically asking why I chose a 914 moreso than model year v. smog. I chose the 914 because Originally I wasn't planning to go full tube chassis btw. In terms of smog and registration, I already had a 72 car, but even if I didn't, I would have been certain to buy a smog exempt one for easy registration. It is nice to be registered for the street as the car insurance is easier to obtain without a lot of questions asked about the car itself. For the next car (yes, I have a short attention span and will probably be "over" this car within a few years) I will probably build a 1970 Mustang Fastback in similar fashion - tube chassis front to rear with stock doors, dash, all the working lights and such, but with a more streetable 462 cube small block (4.185" bore/4.2" stroke) hyd roller cam motor as a daily driver. Easy 500HP/550 lb-ft setup with full Nascar front and rear clips with a 3-link quick change rearend. Yes, I said daily driver. Can you tell how short my attention span is yet? Not even done with one car and already laying out the second one... |
I think the car is amazing.
What I mean by the question, is there really is not any 914 left.
You have reengineered everything (chassis, suspension, brakes, motor). What is left ( serial #, windshield, doors with working windows)?
I understand why people just stick in x motor (v8, flat 6, 13b, turbo flat 4). Upgrade brakes, etc.. Many parts just bolt on to the 914. But for the amount of work you did to the car it could be anything you want it to be? Replica fill in the blank here. Or an original byndbad914 designed car. Of course then you have to deal with DMV/smog.
How hard would it be to put a different body on your chassis? Do you have any boat builder friends
I am glad the fabricator you hired is working out so well. Most of the time the shop starts on your car, then gets to busy doing the day to day stuff that pays the bills they never get back to the big project in the corner of the shop.
I can't wait to see what you do to your mustang next.
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 30 2006, 07:18 PM
| QUOTE (racerx7 @ Mar 30 2006, 04:03 PM) |
| What I mean by the question, is there really is not any 914 left. You have reengineered everything (chassis, suspension, brakes, motor). What is left ( serial #, windshield, doors with working windows)? I understand why people just stick in x motor (v8, flat 6, 13b, turbo flat 4). Upgrade brakes, etc.. Many parts just bolt on to the 914. But for the amount of work you did to the car it could be anything you want it to be? Replica fill in the blank here. Or an original byndbad914 designed car. Of course then you have to deal with DMV/smog. How hard would it be to put a different body on your chassis? Do you have any boat builder friends I am glad the fabricator you hired is working out so well. Most of the time the shop starts on your car, then gets to busy doing the day to day stuff that pays the bills they never get back to the big project in the corner of the shop. I can't wait to see what you do to your mustang next. |
okay, I follow ya now. Your right, having a tube car with just enough 914 keep the "look", I could've built about anything. So why the 914 "chunk"... you are correct about the VIN usage for sure. I wanted the stock doors so that when I cruise to the rod runs at Ruby's and such, which are usually in the evening, I would like to have some windows to roll up in case it is cold. I need windshield wipers for instance to qualify for liability insurance when I street drive it - fiberglass cars don't have the cowl area setup for that.
The whole stock doors and dash thing is just whacky personal choice. I don't really like how "racecar" dashes look - they tend to have minimalistic lines and such. The stock dash has "more character". And having a pretty stock interior (seat upgrades aren't that uncommon) kinda gives the illusion it is "sorta tuned", without looking "full race".
Of course, the huge-ass intake rise and 4" tall K&N aircleaner in the back doesn't do much to disguise anything anymore.
I kinda wanted the car to look "like a hot rod" and not a full race car, but really have it be a full race car. Sheeps clothing sorta thing. 
The whole NASCAR bars in the interior thing has been added by me recently - originally I was going to have a minimum amount of cage in the interior to keep that "slightly upgraded" look, but then I found out how fast I was going at the racetrack a couple months back and got a bit scared not having a bunch-o-safety in place. And at the same time, another rally driver got killed by a side-impact, so I figured I should try to get myself caged in as much as possible.
Really, there is something sorta cool about an insanely built racecar (I was at 2305lbs before; if I can come in at 2100lbs, then I would have exactly 4lbs/HP) with a stock dash/doors/door panels/steering column and all the correct working lights and such, right?
In the end, why a 914 specifically - when they are flared out and such, they just look damn cool to me, and I am a bit form over function when it comes down to it. They are low to the ground, short, and wide and that just looks cool to me. And very, very few cars (unbenounced to the ricer guys apparently) really look good with a big wing on the back IMO and the 914 is one of the few. I saw Roger's car 10yrs ago when he was building it and here it is with a 72" wing. Panteras look good too.
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Posted by: Mr.C Mar 30 2006, 07:47 PM
| QUOTE (byndbad914 @ Mar 30 2006, 01:38 PM) |
| I can easily convert to that then, you know, when I am rich and famous and such. |
I don't know, with what your doing I would say your famous now. This is too cool!
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 30 2006, 11:05 PM
| QUOTE (Mr.C @ Mar 30 2006, 05:47 PM) | ||
I don't know, with what your doing I would say your famous now. This is too cool! |
thanks - too bad I am going the wrong way on the "rich" part
Posted by: racerx7 Mar 30 2006, 11:27 PM
| QUOTE (byndbad914 @ Mar 30 2006, 05:18 PM) |
| Really, there is something sorta cool about an insanely built racecar (I was at 2305lbs before; if I can come in at 2100lbs, then I would have exactly 4lbs/HP) with a stock dash/doors/door panels/steering column and all the correct working lights and such, right? In the end, why a 914 specifically - when they are flared out and such, they just look damn cool to me, and I am a bit form over function when it comes down to it. They are low to the ground, short, and wide and that just looks cool to me. And very, very few cars (unbenounced to the ricer guys apparently) really look good with a big wing on the back IMO and the 914 is one of the few. I saw Roger's car 10yrs ago when he was building it and here it is with a 72" wing. Panteras look good too. |
I love the look of the 914 pict you included.
I would have to agree with everything you said, except the ricer part. I am probably one of the few people who like cars from japan, usa, england, italy & germany.
I plan to stick one of those huge wings on my fd3s for track events. On my rx2 I think I will
pass on the wing:)
I would stick with this shop for your mustang. I know several people where there car just sat in the
corner of some shop for over year to never be finished.
I had shop charge me for storage! I am paying him to work on my car and he charged me for storage.
He got to work on my when his shop was slow. You would think I would get some kind of discounted
rate.
Posted by: byndbad914 Mar 31 2006, 12:03 AM
| QUOTE (racerx7 @ Mar 30 2006, 09:27 PM) |
| I plan to stick one of those huge wings on my fd3s for track events. On my rx2 I think I will pass on the wing:) I would stick with this shop for your mustang. I know several people where there car just sat in the corner of some shop for over year to never be finished. I had shop charge me for storage! I am paying him to work on my car and he charged me for storage. He got to work on my when his shop was slow. You would think I would get some kind of discounted rate. |
what speeds will you be traveling with the fd3s (btw, I don't know what that is and have dialup at home here, so won't be googling until tomorrow
) I ask because big wings = drag and if you aren't really cranking the mph, the wing hurts you, doesn't help you.Some guys with Pcars have put wings on the back and it actually slowed their lap times because they didn't have the HP to pull that thing through with wind as easily (even 6cyl 911s) and didn't have enough top speed to take real advantage. Someone actually just posted that exact thing happening to them on either this forum or the bird board racing forum.
I was rolling 125-ish through turn 8 at Big Willow in 3rd gear and not really sure if a wing would've made a big difference at that speed (since that car was holding on no problem anyway and I don't have a wing yet). However, I am hoping to get more like 150-160mph thru there like the car I posted does, and Roger assured me I need the wing to pull that off.
That said, many of the Pcars that run Willow run about 120-130/135mph thru T8 (and click off very respectable lap times). Just a warning.
I saw an RX like yours last week on the freeway and had put a big wing on it, but the uprights were welded straight to the rear lid and pointed up 90deg to the lid, so the wing was actually angled with the car - both trying to stop the car and lift the backend off the ground - rolling 70 on the 91 freeway. I had my camera with me and tried to get it out and get a shot, but he thought he was Joe racer and was cutting in and outta traffic, so when I was almost caught up to him, my exchange was upon me. I REALLY wanted that photo...
Chassis shops and paint shops are notorious for taking forever. Trust me, there are days like yesterday where I drove all the way over there to see five tubes welded into place - so that takes 3 days. But then apparently someone puts some dust in his weed and 3 days later the whole rearend is in the car. Relative to other shops though, he is a bullet train, he is a pretty smart dude, and his welding is unreal.
Posted by: racerx7 Apr 1 2006, 12:28 AM
I have never made it to willow yet. Just laguna seca, sears point & thunder hill.
I think the fastest I ever did at thunder hill was 125 / 130 ish.
I think. I don't remember. I never much paid attention to mph just lap times. I remember my times was
around 2:13. I so want to break under 2:10. Money has
been tight for while now though, so that will have to wait.
my car at the time had about 260-275rwp. and I was
running hoosers, ap brakes and 13+ inch rotors.
Now the car is stock and is very slow.
fd3s = 1993 - 1995 mazda rx7
Wow, you can get up to 150mph on track on the west coast. Is that a fast track? Or a very, very fast car? I thought
that fastest (no stock car) track was like in virgnia. I don't know if it is the fastest I just seem to remember people saying really high mph and how it killed the brakes.
Posted by: racerx7 Apr 1 2006, 12:37 AM
My fd3s. Mine is the pretty one 
Posted by: byndbad914 Apr 1 2006, 02:35 PM
| QUOTE (racerx7 @ Mar 31 2006, 10:28 PM) |
| Wow, you can get up to 150mph on track on the west coast. Is that a fast track? Or a very, very fast car? |
sort of a combination of both I guess. Roger's car was like 1800-1850lbs with 350HP, so good power to weight. He is "flat out" through t8, which with the gearing he had in the car, put him between 150-160mph by his calculation. He warned me that he has been off t8 six times though.
I dunno if I like the idea of an occassional off track excursion at 150mph. One time a wind gust blew him off the track.Willow has two pretty long stretches, the longest really being turn 8 if you have about three things working for you
1 - you have the huevos to take the ridge up and outta turn 7 at some good speed to go into turn 8 because there is a bit of a "whoopty do" there that can get the car off the ground if not careful. Last time out I hit it pretty hard when Jack Olsen (911 guy pretty well known on the bird board) was following me and I saw him get out of it because I bet he thought I had lost it - the car shifted what felt like a foot straight left.
2 - the car can hang on through the slight bend. This is where the combo of the Hoosiers I have with the addition of a rear wing to plant the back of the car down will help me
3 - you have enough brake to deep into turn 9 but get slowed down enough to make it through t9.
The straight is good for some high speeds as well between t9 and t1 because t1 isn't as brutal as t9, so you can carry higher speed through it. A lot of guys with decently prepared 914s with built 4s or decent 6s tend to not like the big track as much because they are just flat out and cruising T8 and the straight, so not as much fun as a smaller track where they aren't "kicking back" at 125 waiting for the next good turn.
Another reason for the wing on my car is that many cars get light on the front end at high speed. 914s like to get light on the rear, and down the front stretch the time I went up around 140mph the car was feeling really twitchy.
And now that I see your car full size - the car that had the funky wing I mentioned before was an earlier version of the RX7.
Posted by: neo914-6 Apr 1 2006, 02:54 PM
Tim,
I appreciate your designers sense.
It's a challenge building a dual purpose car without too many compromises...
| QUOTE |
| okay, I follow ya now. Your right, having a tube car with just enough 914 keep the "look", I could've built about anything. I don't really like how "racecar" dashes look - they tend to have minimalistic lines and such. The stock dash has "more character". And having a pretty stock interior (seat upgrades aren't that uncommon) kinda gives the illusion it is "sorta tuned", without looking "full race". I kinda wanted the car to look "like a hot rod" and not a full race car, but really have it be a full race car. Sheeps clothing sorta thing. - originally I was going to have a minimum amount of cage in the interior to keep that "slightly upgraded" look, In the end, why a 914 specifically - when they are flared out and such, they just look damn cool to me, and I am a bit form over function when it comes down to it. They are low to the ground, short, and wide and that just looks cool to me. |
Posted by: Brett W Apr 1 2006, 07:50 PM
OK I pulled the wheels off a C6 Z06 today. It does use some sort of one piece hub, flange, and bearing. Instead of using a typical German style CV joint it uses a tripod on both sides so any custom work will require either modifiying a tripod to allow the use of a standard joint or a custom axle with 930 splines on one end and the Corvette tripod on the other end.
Wonder why the used a tripod instead of a traditional CV joint?
Posted by: byndbad914 Apr 3 2006, 01:08 PM
Thanks for the props Felix - you are right about the difficulty of trying to build to 2 purposes - the NASCAR bars are just killing me because they stick out like a sore thumb for a "hot rod", but my personal safety outweighed that form v. function. I like my ribs in one piece
Brett - the stuff that AJ was showing me was capable of using a 930 CV joint according to him IIRC, so I don't know if the aftermarket company does some sort of conversion (most likely) or if he does. He said the way the bearing and hub is set up is much nicer than the stock Pcar stuff though. The bearings are different design and much stronger than the dual roller bearing thrust stuff the Pcars have.
They may also be some sort of "copy" of the ZR2 stuff, but not exactly GM as well. 
Picked up my Stock Car Products dry sump pump on Friday - that is going to be a tight squeeze!! Probably have to mount it to the frame in fact (which will be fine as the engine is solid mounted as well). Standard 10lbs of shit in a 5lb bag issue with that honkin' V8 in that chassis. I will try to remember to get some pix later this week.
Posted by: Brett W Apr 3 2006, 03:44 PM
Yeah the aftermarket guys are actually making a new stub with the 930 bolt pattern on it. It is made from 300M or something like that. 
I am giong to try and get me a C5/C6 axle to take apart and see what it looks like.
Posted by: byndbad914 Apr 6 2006, 01:28 PM
please allow myself to touch.. myself. Got the wheels in from UPS yesterday. As far as the tires, UPS must have a monkey for my delivery guy. Got one tire from Hoosier on Tuesday, box 2 of 2. Hmmm, wonder where 1 of 2 is?? Oh, apparently he/she didn't like the label , so it wasn't delivered and went back. Some sort of UPS scam to charge Hoosier a few extra bucks to "read" the label. Anyway, talk to UPS Tues night and everything is fine and will be delivered on Wed. So I get home, no tire, but 4 wheels. Call UPS - driver couldn't deliver because I was "closed". My house now has business hours apparently. The UPS operator had no clue wtf was going on as the package is clearly a residential package, he dropped the other one the day before, so forth. And why the hell would he drop 4 wheels, but not the tire? EEEdiot, gawd (my best attempt at Nap Dyno) 
I just can't figure out why it has to be so difficult 
Hopefully the tire gets dropped today so I can mount and balance the rear for AJ to start fitting to the car on Friday.
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Posted by: byndbad914 Apr 6 2006, 01:30 PM
wonder if the 10" rears will be wide enough
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Posted by: byndbad914 Apr 13 2006, 03:29 PM
here is a link to the bird board with the recent updates for those that didn't catch it over there... those that did, well, your just gonna have to wait until Monday for more 
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=276439
Can't wait for Saturday to see what more has been done this week! AJ thinks he may start the rear suspension next week if he can have the car up off the ground by Saturday. If he could start next Monday on rear suspension, I may only be 3-4wks away from firing this car up and tearing around the traffic circle in Orange - that is assuming my long-time friend is working that day (Orange PD, that is, gotta have an insider if yous gonna rip up some streets).
Probably just jinxed that, didn't I! Car won't be done by any means at that point, just means I can drive it around, make sure it all works and feels good, then tear it completely back apart yet again for acid dip, paint work, etc. I may take it to the track if an ACRA event is up shortly at that point just to feel it out, then rip it apart again. We'll see.
Posted by: byndbad914 Apr 17 2006, 05:09 PM
here is a new thread I am starting to continue the progress, but with the updated format since "The Great Virus Crash of 06"
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=50151
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