I have spoken with a few people about 2.4 911 E engine with carbs and so far reccomendation is to go without an oil cooler to start. General concensous is that as long as I dont run the engine too lean it should stay cool enough.
QUOTE (grantsfo @ Feb 17 2006, 10:03 PM) |
I have spoken with a few people about 2.4 911 E engine with carbs and so far reccomendation is to go without an oil cooler to start. General concensous is that as long as I dont run the engine too lean it should stay cool enough. |
Think longevity....Add it now and save yourself. If you plan on using this car on the track then the extra cooling on those 100 degree days at BW or TH will be appreciated by your motor and your wallet.
I am installing a 25 row cooler with 1600cfm fan on my 4 banger just for that reason.
QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 17 2006, 09:05 PM) | ||
most people say 170hp and over.... it cant hurt. more oil and more cooling ability is always a good thing. are you going to track it? run it on hot days? and please use engine tin..... id do it.... |
just do it. its pretty cheap. cheap insurance at that....
use a nice MOCAL thermostat, and you can always tape off the opening on coooold days.
I would suggest:
Pull off the shroud & clean the cyl fins.
Remove the air deflectors and do Anderson's recommended cuts on them.....and put em' back on, of course
Delete the rear valence.
Blocking off the L&R vents (at each side of the fan) is standard practice.
On mine all was well until that one time at Marina when we had all those "fun-runs" on a hot day.
the real test came at Thunderhill when the temps kept climbing north of 245°.
Now the cooler is in. No problems anymore.
180° on the street and 210° on the track. No tin...
KT
QUOTE (trekkor @ Feb 17 2006, 10:33 PM) |
On mine all was well until that one time at Marina when we had all those "fun-runs" on a hot day. the real test came at Thunderhill when the temps kept climbing north of 245°. Now the cooler is in. No problems anymore. 180° and 210° on the track. No tin... KT |
QUOTE |
sit in traffic. stay stationary... |
I guess Trekkor is telling us something
I know quite a few folks that run track cars with out tin and do just fine.
Probably not a good idea for a street/daily driver car though
QUOTE (trekkor @ Feb 17 2006, 10:56 PM) | ||
*NEWSFLASH* This just in- Traffic has slowed out of turn 4 and it's stop and go out of 7. Expect slower lap times until you exit 11. Ahhhhh! KT |
QUOTE (J P Stein @ Feb 18 2006, 06:19 AM) |
I would suggest: Remove the air deflectors and do Anderson's recommended cuts on them.....and put em' back on, of course ... |
My 2.7 doesn't have an external cooler.
100 degrees in the summer over the grapevine.
But it does have the tin and everything will be nice and clean.
James:
I don't know which engine you have.
It is possible on a 6, tho I can't see the value of removing it's tin to clean out shittage. I know zip about T-4s.
As to the great tin contraversy, my .02.
Cooling is everything to air cooled engines....duh.
Anything one can do to keep one at it's proper operating temp is money in the bank. From a reliability stand point, hot engines wear faster. Hot engines make less power due to this wear. Sprint racers (which most club racers are) get away with "stuff" like no tin for a couple reasons.
1) With a half hour sprint, the cooling system doesn't get a chance to heat soak. Even at that, I hear that often these cars go slower towards the end of the sprint due to lack of cooling.
2) A true race motor is rebuilt every 40-50 hrs....or less.
Tin keeps the hot side hot & the cool side cool. It also keeps shittage from finding it's way up to the top of the engine where it does no good at all. Near as I can figure, racers leave it off for access.
I ain't saying you have to run tin.....you can do whatever you bloody well please...it's your car, yada,
but unless you can come up with another good reason to leave it off, I'll hang with my .02.
I'm with JP on this. I wouldn't run any 914 without engine tin, but what do I know
As far as an external cooler, if you are only doing autox you'll probably be fine without one.
There's a couple other things you can do to help, like the later style cam tower oil fittings with the smaller orfices, making sure you've got the plastic flaps on the bottom, and a full grill engine lid, which is all stuff you'd probably do anyway.
QUOTE (Headrage @ Feb 18 2006, 07:18 AM) |
My 2.7 doesn't have an external cooler. 100 degrees in the summer over the grapevine. But it does have the tin and everything will be nice and clean. |
As usual great debate and you have got me reconsidering. Thanks!
QUOTE (grantsfo @ Feb 18 2006, 07:46 AM) |
As usual great debate and you have got me reconsidering. Thanks! |
My $0.02
External oil cooler.
- For AX ... not needed.
- For high speed highway driving in hot climates ... a very good idea.
- For most any track time over 10 minutes ... REQUIRED.
A 911 motor is some expensive $#!+ to rebuild - I'd add a cooler as extra insurance/longevity. Sorry to
I also would run carbs, but don't take that as a - it's just my 2 cents.
QUOTE |
The 2.4E is a borderline deal. |
QUOTE (J P Stein @ Feb 18 2006, 04:28 PM) |
James: I don't know which engine you have. It is possible on a 6... |
QUOTE (thesey914 @ Feb 18 2006, 10:36 AM) | ||
This is for a carbed 2.4 six that I'm preparing to install. I thought that removal of the tin was obstructed by the crankcase bolts. Removal is to perform the tinware mods as described in Bruce Andersons book. |
QUOTE (fiid @ Feb 18 2006, 08:51 AM) |
A 911 motor is some expensive $#!+ to rebuild - I'd add a cooler as extra insurance/longevity. Sorry to I also would run carbs, but don't take that as a - it's just my 2 cents. |
QUOTE (J P Stein @ Feb 18 2006, 07:45 PM) |
If you remove the FG shroud, you can access & remove the air deflectors to make your cuts....spring clips are all that hold them on.....they come out the bottom so headers could be a problem. |
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