I right now have the19 mm MC , SS brake lines and bmw front caliper upgrade from PO
I have heard the the stockers are just as good if working properly .. is this true ... is there a better setup than both and keeping the 4 lug ..
Magical Billet hubs, M calipers and vented SC rotors all with 4 lug
billet hubs -- are those the muller ones? how much
M calipers ? like bmw M calipers?
sc rotors ?
splan more please
and cost
or are you tring to be a little funny
QUOTE (sk8kat1 @ Feb 18 2006, 09:08 PM) |
billet hubs -- are those the muller ones? how much M calipers ? like bmw M calipers? sc rotors ? splan more please and cost or are you tring to be a little funny |
oooo.. --well I kinda feel like a dumbass... well what do all these items run price wise and how hard to get
and on the calipers does it make a differance which version I get and can I run the M calipers as bolt ons like the bmw brakes
No funny
Dead serious.
M calipers are 3 inch mounting bolt spacing, from early 911s. Fit directly to your 914-4 struts.
Yes, the Mueller hubs.
SC rotors as in 911SC 1978-1983
As far as price goes, the hubs are $400 IIRC
M Calipers anywhere from $50+ per pair depending on condition
SC rotors are $50 per brand new
your BMW calipers run with solid (non-vented) rotors.
M calipers run with vented (SC) rotors
are the muller hubs nessiary or just for the grins and giggles factor
QUOTE (sk8kat1 @ Feb 18 2006, 09:20 PM) |
are the muller hubs nessiary or just for the grins and giggles factor |
The billet hubs are the only way you can run the SC vented rotors.
The hubs mimic the function and look of 911 hubs. This way you can buy just rotors instead of your current rotor/hub combination. With the billet hubs you don't have to buy change bearings etc when you need new rotors.
Otherwise what would be the point of putting a larger caliper and generating more heat with no improved way of dissipating that heat?
Why add M calipers and keep solid rotors.
What is your obsession with thinking that the hubs are something comical?
QUOTE (Dan (Almaden Valley) @ Feb 18 2006, 09:28 PM) |
The billet hubs are the only way you can run the SC vented rotors. The hubs mimic the function and look of 911 hubs. This way you can buy just rotors instead of your current rotor/hub combination. With the billet hubs you don't have to buy change bearings etc when you need new rotors. Otherwise what would be the point of putting a larger caliper and generating more heat with no improved way of dissipating that heat? Why add M calipers and keep solid rotors. What is your obsession with thinking that the hubs are something comical? |
no not comical.. just did know if the the billet was suggested for racing wieght savings or because it was the best good option ...or both ----
i have researched all I could find as an alternative was teh 911 5 lug conversion or the bmw on PP-- that is why I asked you guys because the club collective has a lot of knowlage that I not only having had a 914 since november
On my vintage 2L race car, I use the billet front hubs, M calipers with Pagid race pads, slotted rotors in front, BMW calipers with Axis semi metalic pads in back and my car can out brake an all wheel drive Mitsu rally car or late model Corvette in a Mexican circuit (street) race and do it lap after lap. I use a 23 MM master cylinder through as I like a short pedal travel.
anyone know a good place to get the calipers?
and if I pick up the hubs, calipers , pads , rotors ..any others parts I will need to do the swap ?
Any friendly Porsche dismantelers in your neck of the woods?
Lots of times the calipers and rotors will show up at swap meets.
Watch the classifieds here, they show up occasionally.
Only other thing you might need would be new bearings.
Possibly new hard brake lines on the strut, if you can't bend the orginals.
914-6 or early 911 hard brake line will work.
Good Luck
QUOTE (Dan (Almaden Valley) @ Feb 18 2006, 11:36 PM) |
Any friendly Porsche dismantelers in your neck of the woods? Lots of times the calipers and rotors will show up at swap meets. Watch the classifieds here, they show up occasionally. Only other thing you might need would be new bearings. Possibly new hard brake lines on the strut, if you can't bend the orginals. 914-6 or early 911 hard brake line will work. Good Luck |
hey just out of curiosity .. are the 911t ...M calipers
the same as the 914/6 ones?
Hey Mike,
Perhaps if you look at how the 911 rotors attach you will see the need for the custom billet hubs Mueller makes. They attach differently than our stock ones and will only work with either the 911 front end or Muellers adaptors.
For parts, look at the pelican parts 911 classifieds, ask here in the parts section. I got the 3" M calipers from a member here for cheap. I believe the 914/6 are the same. The main thing is that the mounting bolt holes for the caliper are 3" spaced, not 3.5".
HTH
ok thanks for the info ...I am already 90% there money wise to get teh mueller hubs and the rotors from the club store .. just scouting out the calipers now
I am also adding turbo tie rods and new balljoints and 165# rear springs ....also if i happen on some extra cash getting my rears calipers done right by eric shea
I dont want to get smacked here...
What are your intentions with the car?
Big vented brakes (I could debate that the 911 rotors are not Big)
are really only needed for a serious track car.
Your setup with 19mm, bmw front calipers, and stock rears will stop the car on a dime...if they are set up correctly.
get more aggressive pads up front, get and adjustable proportioning valve, and fix what you have.
Spend the money on good front struts and rear shocks.
Adjustable koni's
JMHO
Rich
what about the whole the bmw setup is all wrong for the heat it produces thing... and won't more aggressive pads augment that ?
what do you mean set up correctly?
the adjustable proportian vale , hadn't thought of that ...
I thought the adjustable koni did a 4x4 move on the rear end
QUOTE |
Your setup with 19mm, bmw front calipers, and stock rears will stop the car on a dime...if they are set up correctly. |
QUOTE |
what about the whole the bmw setup is all wrong for the heat it produces thing... and won't more aggressive pads augment that ? |
QUOTE |
what do you mean set up correctly? |
QUOTE |
the adjustable proportian vale , hadn't thought of that ... |
QUOTE |
I thought the adjustable koni did a 4x4 move on the rear end |
koni's go hand in hand with shorter springs or adjustable perches....
Shocks don't raise your ride height...
plan is this... my orginal plan was a mcmark 2056... well my wife changed her mond and now that has to wait...
so now I want it to be a VERY good handling / performing hard driven street car .. no track time
I have stock front and rear sways , unidentafiable shocks and springs , I have turbo tie rods and new balljoints ready to be put in ,.. the afore mentioned ... 19mm MC , SS brakelines , bmw upgrade -- running 195/50/15's
stock 2.0L w/ FI k&N , blue coil , ss heat excahngers , bursht exhuast
all serious suggestions taken , please
mike
I was told that adding red konis would jack up the rear of the car ... it kinda made sense becuse higher pressure(?) shocks on a stock spring not under load might cause the back to 4x4 a bit ... dunno took their word for it I guess
QUOTE |
I was told that adding red konis would jack up the rear of the car |
IMO, if you don't have 200 HP, you only need stock brakes or BMW brakes... once they work, they work! good tires, bleed well, and drive the bitch!!
the rear shocks are orange no markings other than saying made in mexico..? .. the I have no idea what springs are on it ...
so not to beat a dead horse but leave it as is with the install of the turbo tie rods .. replace the pads .. and shocks and possible springs .. bleed the brakes and new fluid and I should be in a real good place with this car ....right?
are we talking the yellow konis or the reds.... and are the 165# springs a good idea ?
what about like poly graphite bushings are those kinda overboard for what I am looking at ?
thanks for the help guys ..
QUOTE |
turbo tie rods |
QUOTE |
replace the pads |
QUOTE |
shocks |
QUOTE |
possible springs |
QUOTE |
bleed the brakes and new fluid and I should be in a real good place with this car ....right? |
QUOTE |
what about like poly graphite bushings are those kinda overboard for what I am looking at ? |
Hard bushings will shake parts off of both you and your car in regular street use. Tie rods and shocks (good ones- I prefer Bilstien but Konis may be better) are mega-important to good stopping, as is a lowered ride hieght. There was a good article in Panorama several months ago about braking that pretty much concluded with "the best braking improvement is from lowering the CG". It was a really technical article, discussing pad sizes, heat dissipation rates, and the energy transfer process involved. Generally, Porsche brakes are already pretty optimum for the design loading, which includes a pretty hefty safety-factor. Of course, when you put in a Raby motor and 240 tires, things might be a littler stressed...
what is the differance between koni yellows and reds ..?
and then those vs bilsteins
and where is the best place to get those pads ?
QUOTE (sk8kat1 @ Feb 21 2006, 04:21 PM) |
what is the differance between koni yellows and reds ..? and then those vs bilsteins and where is the best place to get those pads ? |
are the yellows the sport konis?
and what does it mean when they say a progressive spring .. and used springs a bad thing?
Yellow's are sport valved Konis, adjust via knob at the top of the shock. Adjusts rebound only.
Koni Gas Reds are street valved with adjustment knobs at the tops of the shocks. Adjust rebound only.
Koni red Hydraulics are the ones where you remove the insert, compres and twist to adjust. Adjust rebound only.
koni yellows are sport...I think the reds are no longer made
used springs should be okay to use.....
springs come in 2 flavors, linear and progressive
linear = same spring rate from 1" to 5" or whatever compression
progressive = softer for an inch or so, then they get firmer...
most springs sold for our cars are linear....
140# springs are a decent rate for a street car.....
I see a bunch of comments about the stock brakes being good enough to not need better. So, does that mean they are suited to work well with the added weight of a /6 (2.4-3.2) and some more rubber on the rims? If not, then in my opinion there is room for improvement. Is anyone running a /6 this size and still using stock brakes for daily driven (spirited) and occasional AX?
Not intended to hijack... What front/rear springs would be recommended for a daily driven (spirted) and AX teener with a 3.0 /6?
where is the best place to get Porterfield street pads
QUOTE (jetboy @ Feb 21 2006, 04:46 PM) |
I see a bunch of comments about the stock brakes being good enough to not need better. So, does that mean they are suited to work well with the added weight of a /6 (2.4-3.2) and some more rubber on the rims? If not, then in my opinion there is room for improvement. Is anyone running a /6 this size and still using stock brakes for daily driven (spirited) and occasional AX? Not intended to hijack... What front/rear springs would be recommended for a daily driven (spirted) and AX teener with a 3.0 /6? |
QUOTE (sk8kat1 @ Feb 21 2006, 06:08 PM) |
where is the best place to get Porterfield street pads |
When i said spirited driving i meant fun runs through canyons and hillsides. Lots of corners going from 50/70 down to 15 for hairpins. If the brakes overheat here, your not stopping and either into the face of the hill or off the cliff. So, extra protection against that is what im looking at. Better safe then sorry.
What about spring rates for the added weight of a 3.0 /6? 140 good enough, or something a little firmer?
Ok Ill drop...
QUOTE |
and do a better job of bleeding |
QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 21 2006, 08:19 PM) | ||
http://www.livermoreperformance.com/porsche_brake_pads.html............ |
so does that mean an adjustable proportioning valve is also suggested?
QUOTE (jetboy @ Feb 21 2006, 06:10 PM) |
When i said spirited driving i meant fun runs through canyons and hillsides. Lots of corners going from 50/70 down to 15 for hairpins. If the brakes overheat here, your not stopping and either into the face of the hill or off the cliff. So, extra protection against that is what im looking at. Better safe then sorry. What about spring rates for the added weight of a 3.0 /6? 140 good enough, or something a little firmer? |
so with the pads should I replace bothe front and back with the same pads?
oh and eric .. I might sooner rather than later be sending you some cores for a recaliper rebuilds if I am doing all this other stuff..
QUOTE |
If the brakes overheat here, your not stopping and either into the face of the hill or off the cliff. So, extra protection against that is what im looking at. Better safe then sorry. |
QUOTE |
so with the pads should I replace bothe front and back with the same pads? |
QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ Feb 21 2006, 01:17 PM) |
[. Make sure you have a T. Get some new fluid in there and have lots of fun. |
Yup... with BMW's, use the T
I looked at the bird , paand paragon ... where would I find the proper T fitting...... and how long is the wait for a set of rebuilt
rear calipers?
I figure if I am diong it I might as well know the rears are working right...
Needie aren't we?
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D803%2D611%2D755
About 1 week on the calipers, depending. We'z got a bunch of orders coming in right now. Let me check what's plated and get back with you. Late model right? 73-76??
me needie...
I am used to restoring motorcycles but cars... so I am a little unsure .. and espesily w/ brakes you know stopping is a good thing!
thnaks for all the help though
QUOTE (sk8kat1 @ Feb 21 2006, 09:52 PM) |
so with the pads should I replace bothe front and back with the same pads? oh and eric .. I might sooner rather than later be sending you some cores for a recaliper rebuilds if I am doing all this other stuff.. |
QUOTE |
me needie... |
had surgery stuck at home too much time to dream and blow $$ ---but the vicadin is nice
QUOTE (Oh, and send me a 'Combo' I'm dyin out here in Salt Lake... no good combo's anywhere!!)
OK... Send vicadin instead
Get well.
QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ Feb 22 2006, 09:59 AM) | ||
OK... Send vicadin instead Get well. |
that's it I call for a vivadin party at my house!! i have a60day supply , beer and a BBQ!!
any takers?
any down sides to removeng that pressure regilator and replacing it w/ the T fitting ... be fore I order one?
QUOTE (sk8kat1 @ Feb 22 2006, 04:07 PM) |
any down sides to removeng that pressure regilator and replacing it w/ the T fitting ... be fore I order one? |
suggested by eric shea...
QUOTE |
why the "T"??? |
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