i finally got the heads off that has a huge PITA!
scrapped my tubes, but i have spares
everything is off
rockers and that weird linear spring thing
jugs are off and tubes are off
im about to start cleaning the carbon off the heads
but i want to take the valves off first
so how do i do it?
also:
my dad said something about wanting to do valve guides...does that mean head work?
of do they just dirrectly replace?
ALSO:
what should i go about cleaning the heads with?
from a friend i head carb cleaner and elbow grease
what should i really do it with?
thank
-shag
Look for cracks around the spark plug holes since you have 2L heads.
Also, you aint takin' the valves out. Send them out. I mean you can do it if you get a valve spring compressor, but I would just farm that work out to someone that does heads. They will clean them better than you ever could, inspect them and install anything necessary. (seats, guides, new valves etc...) Yes, thats head work.
So I will ask again.... DID YOU MEASURE THE STROKE OF THAT THING?!?!?!?!
I wanna know I sold you a real 2.0
do you have a large drill press?
get a socket(cheap one) that has a body just a tad bit smaller in diameter than the valve retainer.
with a grinder, make 2 "windows" in the socket body.
place socket ontop of valve, press down on spring and remove the 2 little retaining clips from the valve
valve guides should be left to a pro, they are normally press fit in and then reamed to size
i usually decarbonize my combustion chambers starting with this handy tool...
Attached image(s)
and for valve spring removal I have one of these....
Attached image(s)
i really dont wanna send the heads out
im trying to keep the rebuild price as low as possible so that i can buy more expensive parts
know ne one in town that can do head work, jason?
no i havent measured the bore or stroke
i dont have the necessary tools
Dr. can you really use those?
it isnt to abrassive on the heads?
thank
-jim
This is a expensive part. Have them done by a pro
I used Tuttle's part exchange in Calf.
QUOTE (shaggy @ Feb 27 2006, 05:05 PM) |
i really dont wanna send the heads out im trying to keep the rebuild price as low as possible so that i can buy more expensive parts know ne one in town that can do head work, jason? no i havent measured the bore or stroke i dont have the necessary tools Dr. can you really use those? it isnt to abrassive on the heads? thank -jim |
good point...the last thing i need is another screwed up engine
so...prices generally, and time to do it?
id really like something local but if it cant be done i'd ship, being that i dont have a choice.
-jim
Here is the price list from Rimco for an idea of costs. Welding up cracks is extra. They did a good job on mine and they were badly cracked around both the spark plug holes and valve seats.
HEADWORK
411 / 914, 356 / 912
Surface (includes grinding fin 356 / 912) - Pair............................... $50.00/$60.00
Open for Large Cylinders (411 / 914) - Pair.................................... $ 60.00
Valve Guides Installed (411 / 914) - Each....................................... $ 10.00
Valve Guides Installed (includes guides) -Each............................... $ 10.00
Seats Finished (3 angle) - Each...................................................... $ 10.00
Bead Blast - Each.......................................................................... $ 20.00
Large Valve Seats Installed (411 / 914) (356 / 912) - Each................ $30.00/$35.00
*Complete reconditioning available, Price depends on type of valves used.
Surface - each............................................................................... $ 20.00
Open for Larger Cylinders - Each.................................................. $ 25.00
Valve Guides (includes guides) - Each............................................. $ 12.00
Finish Seats (3 angle) - Each......................................................... $ 10.00
Recondition Complete (no new valves) - Each.................................. $105.00
QUOTE (shaggy @ Feb 27 2006, 05:11 PM) |
good point...the last thing i need is another screwed up engine so...prices generally, and time to do it? id really like something local but if it cant be done i'd ship, being that i dont have a choice. -jim |
For $20 I bought a valve spring compressor at Sears. It is a little awkward to use on the T4 heads but it works. You can get the valves out and inspect the guides. The exaust guides on mine where shot, on thing I noticed was there was carbon buildup on top of the guide on the spring side. Shine a light in there you should be able to see it.
I sent mine out localy, $15 to replace the guide and regrind the seat.
Do a search on the web for Rimco they are in LA area and VW and T4 is all they do. All the prices are on the site.
DANG!! you guy's are fast
QUOTE (shaggy @ Feb 27 2006, 05:05 PM) |
i really dont wanna send the heads out im trying to keep the rebuild price as low as possible so that i can buy more expensive parts know ne one in town that can do head work, jason? no i havent measured the bore or stroke i dont have the necessary tools Dr. can you really use those? it isnt to abrassive on the heads? thank -jim |
QUOTE (shaggy @ Feb 27 2006, 04:05 PM) |
i really dont wanna send the heads out im trying to keep the rebuild price as low as possible so that i can buy more expensive parts know ne one in town that can do head work, jason? no i havent measured the bore or stroke i dont have the necessary tools Dr. can you really use those? it isnt to abrassive on the heads? thank -jim |
ok so the measurement dont have to be really percise huh?
ok, well im off to tutoring now but when i get back ill measure it for you
who at karl's do you know?
paul?
bob?(i think that his name)
im in there a lot looking for parts
what 1? 42nd and indian?
ill pm you the measurements later tonight
-jim
If your looking to get the carbon out of the chambers oven cleaner works amazingly well.....
QUOTE (toon1 @ Feb 27 2006, 07:19 PM) |
If your looking to get the carbon out of the chambers oven cleaner works amazingly well..... |
QUOTE (shaggy @ Feb 27 2006, 06:15 PM) |
ok so the measurement dont have to be really percise huh? ok, well im off to tutoring now but when i get back ill measure it for you who at karl's do you know? paul? bob?(i think that his name) im in there a lot looking for parts what 1? 42nd and indian? ill pm you the measurements later tonight -jim |
I wouldn't use oven cleaner for the combustion chambers.
Going by bad memory here... HHHmmmmm
Sodium Hydroxide and/or potassium chloride is usually one of the constitiuents of oven cleaner..........
It eats aluminum and most non ferrous metals pretty dam fast. Especially if it's hot. And mixed with water. (hot tank stripping for instance)
So if ya get some stuck in the valve guide. The guide will probably be useless. .. It will eat it.
And if some of it gets under the seat.. it will keep eating the aluminum.
SO:
Since ya have to take it to a machine shop anyway to have the seats, valves, guides, rocker adjusters and the combustion chamber checked for cracks and concentricity and just general shits and grins...
LET THEM DO IT............
They have the stuff to do it without hurting anything...
And there going to do it anyway.
No matter how much you clean it. At least my machinist does.
My .02
Twystd1
QUOTE (Flat VW @ Feb 27 2006, 07:38 PM) | ||
But what temp. does one set the oven to? |
QUOTE (Twystd1 @ Feb 27 2006, 11:06 PM) |
LET THEM DO IT............ |
QUOTE (Flat VW @ Feb 28 2006, 05:26 PM) | ||
Yeah, that is the plan. BTW The stroke is 71mm or so Jason. John |
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