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Posted by: toon1 Mar 16 2006, 08:41 PM

the couner weights are sticking in the dist.. How do I get the shaft out to get to the weights?

Posted by: toon1 Mar 16 2006, 10:36 PM

Posted by: McMark Mar 16 2006, 10:43 PM

To remove the distributor from the engine case, just remove the nut between the distributor and the oil fill. To access the weights, remove the screws on the outside and the advance plate lifts up to reveal the weights.

Posted by: toon1 Mar 16 2006, 10:48 PM

I have the dist. to that point, can I remove the shaft?

Posted by: McMark Mar 16 2006, 10:55 PM

PITA!!! Knock the roll pin out of the drive on the bottom and then the shaft will come out.

Posted by: toon1 Mar 16 2006, 11:05 PM

which part is the PITA? the roll pin?

Is it worth it to remove the shaft or should I leave it in?

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Mar 17 2006, 12:10 AM

The weights aren't sticking, the outer shaft isn't turning on the inner one. Failure to oil the felt on a regular basis is the cause. It's hard to explain how to do it, but you have to support the cam portion while knocking the inner portion down with a punch. Once the snap ring is off and the springs disconnected, the outer part comes off the inner one. Clean the rust out, lube it, reassemble it, and reinstall the snap ring. Harder than it sounds, and don't mix up the weight and spring location and orientation. You don't have to remove the roll pin to do this job. The Cap'n

Posted by: toon1 Mar 17 2006, 08:50 AM

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Mar 16 2006, 10:10 PM)

The weights aren't sticking, the outer shaft isn't turning on the inner one. Failure to oil the felt on a regular basis is the cause. It's hard to explain how to do it, but you have to support the cam portion while knocking the inner portion down with a punch. Once the snap ring is off and the springs disconnected, the outer part comes off the inner one. Clean the rust out, lube it, reassemble it, and reinstall the snap ring. Harder than it sounds, and don't mix up the weight and spring location and orientation. You don't have to remove the roll pin to do this job. The Cap'n

Great info, the felt you are refeering to, is that the felt you can see ontop of the dist. where the rotor goes?

Posted by: dstar Mar 17 2006, 08:53 AM

YEP!

When I change the oil, I use the cap from the oil bottle and put a
drop in there.

Don

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Mar 17 2006, 09:14 AM

QUOTE (dstar @ Mar 17 2006, 06:53 AM)

YEP! When I change the oil, I use the cap from the oil bottle and put a drop in there. Don

I use the dipstick for the same purpose. Just enough oil, on a handy applicator! The Cap'n

Posted by: toon1 Mar 17 2006, 11:54 AM

Is it worth it to just try a little oil first be fore a full swap?

Posted by: toon1 Mar 17 2006, 12:42 PM

I put a couple drops of oil on the felt.

I also took a look at the other dizzy I have apart and seen the clip you are talking about. OMG, how in the world does that get removed?

I think I will clean up the extra and do a swap.

Is this worth a pictorial for the classics?

Posted by: dstar Mar 17 2006, 01:13 PM

I don't know about a pictoral, but you cna just spray the hell out of
it with WD-40, run it for 5-10 miles and oil the felt again.

Unless it is totally rusted/gunked up, that should loosen things up a bit!


Don

Posted by: McMark Mar 17 2006, 04:38 PM

PB Blaster.

Posted by: bd1308 Mar 17 2006, 04:46 PM

PB is great on anything...I kept everything together, and rebuilt my dizzy in the hallway of my dorm.

I had one flathead screwdriver and a can of carb cleaner and some paper towels.

After thirty minutes, the dizzy FULLY turned and was very smooth. Ya just gotta get the parts to move and move, oil some and spray with carb cleaner to clean out...repeat.

After about an additional three or so months, I sold the dizzy to Gint who is assumably still using the dizzy.

b