Got my tow bar bracket a couple weeks ago from David Lee.
You can find the thread in the resources section about purchasing one.
They are very sturdy and bolt right into the existing reinforced mounting area for the front of the A arms/torsion bars.
A very nice piece of equipment right from one of our very own.
Doesn't take very long to install.
The following are a few pics I took during intallation.
The first pic is what you see when you first look under the front of your teener and begin the install. You will see the 2 normal 17mm bolts and inside the protector cup for the front of the torsion bar tube is an 8mm allen. Up inside the little slot on the front of the cup.
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Don't leave us waiting in anticipation like that!
I actually have one also, but haven't installed it yet. Looks like you have to remove the protective cup to install?
Sorry about the delay couldn't get back on the site for a few minutes
Anyway, the next shot shows the cup removed and the two 17mm bolts removed. Here is what it looks like before you start the actual install.
remember that there is an 8mm allen inside the protector cup that must be removed to expose all three mounting holes
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next shot shows the bar in place and hardware in for loose fit.
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and another
As you can see from this photo, I mounted the bar under the torsion bar not above (between the chassis and the torsion bar). This would change the suspension geometry with the front of torsoin bar tube being lower than normal.
also note that the front bolt has a nicely made spacer to take up the room between the chassis and the tow bar bracket.
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another
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last one
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Dan,
It looks like you were able to install the bracket without removing your spoiler. Any problems in doing it that way?
LE spoiler is a non-issue. Absolutely no interference.
Spoiler remained in it's usual position during intall.
Spoiler also has no interference during use of the Empi tow bar. David also makes a similar bar with correct attachments for a "Draw tite" tow bar.
Mine is for a superbeetle tow bar. Looks very similar.
This was the easiest and simplest method I have seen for flat towing a 914.
David and I emailed back and forth with ideas and designs before this one was settled on. I originally was planing on fabbing up my own bracket using a set of David's tow eye brackets...which these final product tow bar brackets are based on.
this is a great product and comes with everything you need to install. Bracket, new hardware, and spacer for front mounting bolt.
When finished it does not protrude beyond the spoiler. Actually is behind the vertical plane of the spoiler by about 2-3 inches. It also does not hang down in harms way.
Is there a limit to the range for which flat towing a 914 is appropriate and/or safe?
I have several friends that have been flat towing their 914s and 911s for many years to and from AX and TT/DEs with absolutely no problems.
One car has been flat towed for at least 15 years I know of. 2L 914 with side shifter 901.
I have it on expert opinion that it does absolutely no damage to the tranny or other drive train components.
We travel 200+ miles to Thunderhill 3 times per year minimum and at least a couple of time to Buttonwillow, even to Fernly Nevada from San Jose Ca.
a couple of full perspective of install
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and another
If you look closely you can see my vented front rotors
I also use empty brake cleaner cans as a jackstand
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Looks like everything is coming towgether for you
Nice. Looks pretty strong.
Any chance you will come to the Zone a/x on April 1,2?
KT
yes, the bracket is very strong. You could probably pick the car up by the bracket
Kind of doubt I will make it to the zone AX. Still pointing toward mid April with CDS at BW.
Did not start a separate thread today but I also got my torsion bars in today along with my Porterfield pads in the front. Next is the rear porterfields. rebleed the brakes and run oil lines. Also fabbed up my mounting hardware for the cooler in the front trunk, today.
Once all that is done I will get it back on the ground a rough out my ride hieght. I am pretty happy with the rear, I may go down one more indentation on the Bils on the rear. then set the front with about a 2 degree rake towards the front. And pray I still have enough shock travel. If not I will raise it up one notch on the rears and reset.
Then off for alignment and a few other items at the shop.
Dan,
Any chance of posting a picture of your car hitched up tp your tow vehicle?
I'd like to see how the tow bar clears the LE spoiler.
Oh, I ordered my tow bracket from David last night, tow bar from eBay last week. Now all I need are the tow lights David recommends. This is a pretty good flat tow package for less than $200.
Just an FYI.
I attempted to purchase the Draw Tite clone bar from ebay. The sleeze took my paypal payment, which I am currently disputing and has closed his ebay store and opened another one under a new name. Beware this scum.
old ebay username: smartinvestors
new ebay username: sliou02
Sorry, let me add, this has nothing to do with David's excellent product. I'm just trying to warn others about my mistake. I also see several of the generic type tow bars on craig list.
That tow bar attachment appears strong enough to be doing double duty as a front suspension stiffener. Looks really good. And easy. Easy is important.
QUOTE (blitZ @ Mar 21 2006, 05:17 AM) |
Just an FYI. I attempted to purchase the Draw Tite clone bar from ebay. The sleeze took my paypal payment, which I am currently disputing and has closed his ebay store and opened another one under a new name. Beware this scum. old ebay username: smartinvestors new ebay username: sliou02 |
QUOTE (STL914 @ Mar 21 2006, 04:22 AM) |
Dan, Any chance of posting a picture of your car hitched up tp your tow vehicle? I'd like to see how the tow bar clears the LE spoiler. Oh, I ordered my tow bracket from David last night, tow bar from eBay last week. Now all I need are the tow lights David recommends. This is a pretty good flat tow package for less than $200. |
Glad to hear that the wiring worked out for you!
To reinforce the flat towing issue, I have towed my track-only 914 thousands of miles, 8 - 10 times per year for the last five years. No problems.
Hey Dan or Greg, how about some details on the parts needed to hook up the wiring without doing the magnetic light thing? Inquiring minds want to know. What parts are needed? Where can you source them? Costs?
If you really want to go over the top you could also work up a little wiring diagram. OK OK....maybe I went too far with that request. DLee
QUOTE (dlee1967 @ Mar 21 2006, 06:47 PM) |
Hey Dan or Greg, how about some details on the parts needed to hook up the wiring without doing the magnetic light thing? Inquiring minds want to know. What parts are needed? Where can you source them? Costs? If you really want to go over the top you could also work up a little wiring diagram. OK OK....maybe I went too far with that request. DLee |
I used a roadmaster universal wiring kit. It comes with the wiring harness (30'), extension 6', 4- 2 into 1 diodes, wire loom, spade connectors and diagram. All of this can be obtained from Campingworld, or some place where trailer hitches and wiring can be purchased.
The diodes are necessary to eliminate electrical feedback from the tow vehicles electrical system from effecting the towed vehicle's (914) electrical system.
Here is a cropped version of the wiring diagram
Took me no more than an hour to do complete job including running the wiring harness.
You will need a test light or multimeter to find the wires you need at the tail lights unless you have a teener wiring diagram with color codes.
This diagram assumes your tow vehicle has combined brake/turn signal functions. If you aren't sure about that you probably shouldn't be doing this on your own.
With this set up your current 914 brake/running lights will now function while towing as your brake/running/turn signals.
There are other diagrams if your tow vehicle has separate turn and brake lights.
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Nice.....thanks Dan!
QUOTE (dlee1967 @ Mar 21 2006, 09:35 PM) |
Nice.....thanks Dan! |
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