Ok, so I am in the process of replacing all of my shift bushings (side shift).
I have the rear rod out, the new rear bushing is in. The new cup bushing is in, but its not on the ball yet.
Here are the questions:
1) What's the easiest way to get the firewall bushing in? I have heard that if you soak it in hot water, it helps it to go in. I have been using a hammer (BFH) and a socket to try and get it in there. Any other hints?
2) Do I need to use a BFH to get the cup bushing onto the ball?
3) The coupler bushings do look look fun at all. I assume that that they mount inside. I have read that I need to get that 1/2" pin out and the best way is to use a vice. Is this correct? I have it soaking in penetrant now, hopefully to make the process easier.
3.5) [edit] How do I get that pin back in when I get the bushings installed?
4) Should I be using or avoiding the use of a lubricant like white lithium grease to help get these bushes in?
5) Lastly, I got 2 new set scews in the kit from PP. The have these little sections on the threads that I assume will "set" the screws as I tighten them down. Is this correct or do I need to reuse the old ones?
Thanks in advance.
- Joe
I have a few answers.
1) Yes, hot water works with the firewall bushing. I put a coffee mug filled with water and the bushing in the microwave for a minute or so. Immediately took it to the garage and popped it right in.
5) I think you are refering to the cone screws. Probably best to replace your old ones and use some loctite on the new ones. They have a habit of unscrewing themselves at times.
Joe, for the ball cup bushing, you could use a vice clamp to pop in place. If that doesnt work try using a little grease to ease it in a bit easier.
Joe - choo got mah numba, gimme a ring a ding if you have issues....
for posterity, il chime in here.
1) i did the hot water and socket thing. worked for me.
2) i did the cup bushing with my hands. use some grease in there. dont be a girly man. be a man, use your hands.
3) yes. read my article. a pita. a punch and a BFH will get the pin out, clean up with sand paper. put the bushings in and reinstall.
3.5 ) same way it went out.
4) couldnt hurt.
5) use the new ones. they tend to be one time use only. use some blue threadlocker if you feel the need (NOT red)
i told you to just come on over and we could do it... but no.... you gotta do it yourself LOL
The "sections" on the threads of the new screws are the "locks". That's why you use new ones. Loctite not necessary.
For the coupler use a vise, a bolt slightly smaller in diameter than the pin and a deep socket to catch the pin. Use the vise like a press to remove the pin.
Use the vise to press the pin back in, no socket/bolt required.
The pot metal is easily broken and a hammer/punch is much more risky than the method above.
Thanks all for the advice. Got it done and it shifts so much more precisely now it is scary how bad it was before, and it was still decent shifting.
My neighbor Jeff provided the vice to press out that pin in the coupler. (Thanks Jeff, not that he'll read this) and the rest was easy.
Made 2 minor mistakes.
1) I put the coupler on upside down the first time. I had to drive out the pin again and put it back.
2) I had everything bolted up and forgot the cover on the side of the tranny. I had to unbolt it all and put the cover on and then rebolt it all together.
So that's the deal - I recommend the replacement as it makes a big difference.
Thanks again for all the advice.
ROFL! i made mistake numba 1 too!!!!
with a cotter pin removal pic.
with the right tools, it isnt so bad. stretch and stick it over.
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