Last years Musr was just about the best time I've had in a 914 in my 30 years of 914 ownership. 25 914's on the highway in line was one of the most awesome sights I've ever seen. We've been planning the return trip since we got back last year.
Today my dreams were shattered. I lost # 2 cylinder on Monday. Fire is good, injector has good spray, valves are adjusted right. All the basics were checked and rechecked. Purchased new compression tester today(damn I hate it when tools disappear), and the news is not good. 1 thru 4 read like this; 135,30, 90,135. Checked # 2 first. Read zero. Freaked out. Checked the rest and came back to # 2. After about 5 revs, it jumped to 30, but that was it. Gave a squirt of oil in all cylinders and no change. I have two heads in the shop that are supposed to be ready next week. If I'm capable of a monster garage thing, The 914 will make the trip. Besides intake/exhaust, and head gaskets, what parts will I need on hand to do the head swap? Can I get them in a week?
All info will help.
Heart broke in T town, Curt
I have had many problems, and like most here, I can surely empathize with how that makes you feel.
Sorry man, it's one of the most stressful things I know of, engine trouble.
M
We don't use the head gaskets anymore so leave those out.
Dropped seat maybe??
Geoff
Dropped seat "usually" has zero read and would not cause the other cylinder to be low as well.....could be rocker arm issues.....
Missed that...thought they were on the same side....
If it makes you feel any better I am pulling mine as well. Rings are bad and the trans has a nasty clunk from too many burnouts.....
Hey Curt... what a bummer. You'll have a happy day soon tho hang in there buddy
bruce
Get the engine out this weekend. I have 2 cars without engines as I type this. Both of them will run this weekend. Neither of them have engine tin..and one of them has no heads.
Call the machine shop tomorrow and make sure the heads will be done before 5pm so you can pick them up.
You can do this.. and we can help. I can walk you thru a top end rebuild (I'm fresh off of two of them)
First.. get the thing cleaned up at the car wash (underneath).. take brake cleaner with you and a floorjack.. then yank everything out. Get it to the point that you have all 4 bolts loose and call up a buddy to physically help you lower the engine on a floorjack... you can actually do everything you need to do without removing the engine/tranny from the floorjack.
I want to see you at the MUSR.
B
Brad,
please kick my ass like that every day! with motivation like that 914s will be roaring to life cross country.
jbb
Locals make fun of me.. they call me the "Tony Robbins" of the 914 world.
Do you want me to list off all the tools needed to pull the engine/tranny ??
B
Making a harbor freight run this weekend (my drivetrain is already out). planning on a drill press and part washer. can you run acetone or toluene (think sniffing glue) through the hf part washer motor?
jbb
Yes.. you can run anything you want thru it.. they are cheap to replace...LOL
B
Sorry Curt - i wasn't trying to hijack this thread. Brad's right, go for it!
I will be in Hot Springs, come hell or bitching customers. I may be in the truck, but I will be there.
I've r&r'd motors before, so I have all the tools. I plan on taking extensive pics and notes for the FI reassembly. I know where most everything goes. The big thing will be if I can kick my machinist in the ass, and get the heads.
Thanks for the words of encouragement, Brad. I'm sure I will be contacting you for much info. A list of necessary parts to have ready would be the first thing. I will remove the engine this weekend, and have it ready for the swap when I get my heads.
All this said, I'm still assuming its only the heads and doesn't need rings, since the oil in cylinders didn't help.
Jeff, I have to go for it. Just don't have two grand to let Rennsport Tulsa do it for me.
Being a person who is stubborn, obstinate, and hates to admit defeat, I rechecked the valves on #2(for the fourth time) Hey, intake was tight! Loosened it up, and compression went right to 90. Still to low on two and three, but better than 30, and does indeed indicate valves. Could be it wasn't fully closed when I set it yesterday, but not likely. Exhaust was on the money.
Lots of work going on today, so I won't be able to button it up till tonight. I will see if we're hitting on all four, let it get good and hot, and recheck vlave when it cools off to see if it's moving.
What kind of noise should I hear, if any, to incicate a loose seat?
It will be a horrible noise. You'll now when its dropping a seat.
Thanks for jumping on this.. I want to see YOU and your 914 at the event. Not you and your truck.
B
I just run mineral spirits in my parts washer. It works well, is cheap, and readily available.
I did this at the suggestion of an old school mechanic...
By the way, I agree that is a HORRIBLE noise....It was so bad I almost cried....getting teared up thinking about it. Well, thinking about the new heavy breather I'm putting in to replace it helps....
Well, sometimes when a valve seat drops, it sounds like "THWACK!" That's the sound of ~1/8" of valve clearance from having the seat be out far enough to keep the valve from closing.
Sometimes when a valve seat drops, it doesn't sound like much of anything at all. The occasional "soft" sounding backfire through the intake, as the burning charge gets past the leaking intake valve... But you'll notice the thing is only running on three cylinders. The starter will crank unevenly as well. "RR-RR-RR-..-RR-RR-RR-..-" That's the "poor man's compression test", there.
Every once in a while, a dropped valve seat will make a "thump! bang-bang-BANG-BANG-WHAM-WHAM-WHAM-CRASH!!!!" noise, as it pops the cap off a rod and then uses the flailing rod to make splinters out of your crankcase.
Note that all of these different types of dropped seat have noises that are made afterward that are identical. "OH GOD NO NOT AGAIN YOU STUPID ****ING PIECE OF ****! I AM GONNA BLOW YOU UP WITH DYNAMITE AND ...." Usually followed by the sound of tools being thrown around the garage.
BTW, you can strip a complete engine down (from complete FI'd motor to bare engine with the heads off it) in 3 hours by yourself, cursing the whole time, and never repeat yourself once. I have a witness to this fact.
--DD
Ok, everything is disconnected(I hope), mounts are loose, and it will come out in the morning. Seems a lot easier than last time, since I kept my notes. Still needing that parts list to make this thing go right. Talked to the machinist this morning and he assured me the heads would be ready first part of the week.
I can do this, I can do this, I can do this...
No.. you should be saying (I will do this).
Stay on it. DD is correct. You should be able to drop the engine and have everything off of it in 3 hours or so.
Clean clean clean.
B
I'm awaiting a bud to come over this morning to help with the drop. I actually think I could do it myself, but no need to take chances. Will post pics as soon as it's out.
Only spent 2 hours unhooking everything last night, and I had to stop now and then to supervise my son who was changing a wiper motor in his Ford truck, and to empty a bud can or two or three.
This would be simple with a lift and a tranni jack.
I now know that this thing is going to happen, and my spirits are much higher than a few days ago.
Thanks for the words of encouragement.
Keep the tech advice coming.
I've been following this post with foreboding interest...
ever since I began AX-ing it's in the back of my mind "something (could) happen "
then, how'm I gonna get home? Guess I'd have to inact the ol' towing ins. coverage, eh?
Maybe, since I thought about it, it won't happen
New Mantra:
Nut'ns gonna happen Nut'ns gonna happen Nut'ns gonna happen Nut'ns gonna happen
bruce
No need for a lift..or a tranny jack. Once you have done this same job at the race track 3-4 times and thrashed all night to make a race.. this is NOTHING. You have 2 weeks before the event and you live close to it. Quit your whining and FIX the car... sorry I'm jealous that I'm not standing there helping you drink the beer.
B
Motor is out and apart.16 pics coming up let me load them all before comments begin please.
#1
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another of my shop. about 800 feet of my 10,000 foot cabinet shop is reserved for the 914's
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#4 cylinder
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#3 cylinder
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forklifts are good!
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me and my motor
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Hmm, how does that come off? Look at all that curly hair! not bad for 54!
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24 pounds of unneeded crap
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custom muffler that was on the car when I got it.
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two glass packs! looks like shit, sounds great!
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#3 on bottom , #4 on top
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#2 grandson. Always glad to lend a smile
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Now to the damage, # 2.
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Another angle
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This is the cigar I'm goin to smoke when this is all done.
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Ok, last post.
I see an engine running way rich. It was caused by a faulty mps. I see lots of leakage from the heads.
Most heads I've pulled off have been hard to break the bolts loose. These came off with a 3/8" rachet , no cheater bar, and not much effort.
That appears to be a dropped valve seat. Damage was not catastrophic at least, i.e. rod through the case....
Also, maybe it is the angle of photograph, but a few of those cylinders look highly polished inside the bores. How old are they? Are you looking at doing a top end?
Did this harm the rod bearing or the cap? how can I tell?
The car has 113,000 miles. As far as I know, this is the first time it's been into.
Its hard to say if it did any more damage with out going further into it. At 113,000 miles, Id be inclined to do a full re-build in the near future. By the looks of the pic, I wan to say it did not do much, if any damage, because your valve is still in one piece. If it was really hammering away, it would have exploded, or punched a hole in the piston.... Did you drain the oil yet? Check the strainer for any fragments of bearing, and go from there
oil is drained, but strainer is not removed yet. I'll check that tomorrow.
Good job getting it all apart.
Did the machine shop finish your other heads ???
I would'nt worry about the piston with the mark in it. It didnt hit hard enough to do any damage.
If you have new P+C's install them. If not.. run the old ones.
B
Damn Brad, do you ever sleep? New heads were promised early next week. Here's the list of stuff I think I need. Add to it if I missed anything.
Intake spacers
Exhaust gaskets
push rod tube seals
Mufler gaskets
Should I replace oil cooler seals now?
Everytime I've removed the passenger side head, its been pure hell. The piece of tin next to the oil cooler just won't come off. I figured out that if you put the piston at the top of its travel, the cylinder will slide off with the head far enough to remove everything without losing the rings on the bottom.
Now I want to clean the motor thoroughly. How do keep the water out of the inside? should I wait till heads are back on?
I'll sleep when I'm dead..
How about I slip the old heads back on to do the cleaning? I have a friend who is chef and brought me a couple of cans of industiral strength oven cleaner.
You can do that (if you havent already).
The oven cleaner only works if you get the engine hot (so I hear).
B
Looks like it would require the pushrod tubes also. I'll wait till the new heads are back on, clean the shit out of it, then install all the newly painted black engine tin (did that today, looks good). Motor is not too dirty, but the trani is filthy. I used the oven cleaner on the tin and it did a great job.
Talked to Brian Thomas at Rennsport Tulsa this morning(He's more of a friend than just a p mech). He said he's had much trouble with the chinese NPR p&c's. He's had to return 5 of the 6 he has ordered. He said they are piss poor quality. He stocks all the gaskets and stuff I will need.
Yep. I dont use the NPR's. Havent used them for 8+ years or so. There is a second chinese company that has a very good product. I'll let you know how their 96's work on Monday.
B
Just so you guy's don't think I'm f#$ing off watching the 49er's whip on the Browns while waiting on my heads, here's how I spent my Sunday.
this morning:
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this afternoon:
oops
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sweet!
-Sweet as
Can't get the headers off the old heads. bolts came off with no prob, but the headers won't budge, I'll put a couple of jamb nuts on the studs and see if I can remove the studs without snaping them, already used plenty of pb blaster, but still hasn't moved yet.
HUm.. I typically try and remove them while the heads are still on the car. I noticed that you had them still attached in one of the pics.
Did you get them off ??
B
I tried to remove them first but they wouldn't move so I didn't want to screw anything up. Heads, or headers. I'll get them off tonight.
Your avatar looks COOL. Keep us posted on what is happening.
B
Headers are off. Took some "gentle coaxing" with a brass punch and ballpeen on the studs, but they came off ok. No damage to headers or studs.
Didn't hear from the machinist today, will call him tomorrow. No, I think I'll just drop by to say "high",
and bring him two more heads. Yeh, great excuse.
Check this out. I'm in the EXACT same position as you (accept I have to drive farther to the event).
I recieved the heads for my wifes car on Saturday after my friend Britain STOOD next to the machinst to make sure the heads got done. Britain brings them up to me.. and the machinist didnt weld/repair/tap one of the exhaust stud holes that was F-ed up. I gave up and took ANOTHER set of 2.0 heads to a machinst closer to me and BEGGED him to have them done this week so I can button her car and drive it for a few days before we leave next Tuesady night.
B
I'll bring a jack, two stands and feeler gauges. You bring the torque wrench. We'll have a head retorque and valve adjust party!!!!! Talk about 914 bonding. LOL.
Can you retorque the heads with the rockers in place? All but one bolt?
Just left the machinist shop. Heads have all the cracks welded up. He said they will be ready by Thursday afternoon
You cant retorque the heads with the rockers in place.
Which is why ARP and Racware went to a smaller nut on their custom head studs. We drilled small holes in the engine tin to access the top nuts on our race engines and used small plugs to snap into place. It works real good. The smaller nuts allow you to torque all the nuts without removing the rockers.
B
What is the procedure for retorqueing heads and when should it be done? Does it require engine and tin removal?
I think you will find most people dont retorque them. Its a pain in the ass to remove all the tin and rockers arms. In a perfect world.. we would retorque them. I torque them and let them sit overnight and hit them again the next day.
B
Ok, One more question answered.
Heads should ready Thursday. Gaskets and such should be here tomorrow. Wow, I can't believe this happening so fast. The last time this happened with my 73-1.7, it took 11 months and $2K. This board wasn't around then, but then again, neither was the internet!
Thanks, Curt
We are neck and neck. My heads should be done on Thursday also. Your 2 hours ahead of me time wise.. we will see who drives their car first !!! Luckily my wifes car is injected and it ran fine before I yanked it apart. It *should* run fine when it goes back together.
B
Mine is injected also, so I don't forsee aproblem there. I suspect yours will run before mine. You have the advantage of experience on your side. Are you replacing the cylinder to case seals? This looks like a slow process. Remove the wrist pin, or recompress the rings?
Not much progress today. Just worked on cleaning the engine bay. Waiting impatiently on heads.
Why do I hate working on cars, but love working on a 914? Adjusted "on rails" valves today. Smooth as silk.
No progress on my wifes car.. but I got another one running that was completely apart a few days ago. Its going to the MUSR with me also.
I dont pull the pistons from the barrels... tap the wrist pin out and slide them off the rod. Dont screw up the bushing in the small end of the conn rod. You have to do them in a certain sequence and start from a certain P+C.
B
Ok Brad, what is that sequence and which p/c do you start with?
Thanks for all the info. Keep it coming please.
Curt
Been doing a little looking and pondering while turning the motor over, and here's what I came up with. Start with #1 and 3 at tdc. this will allow the pin's to slide out toward the rear. Then rotate crank 90 degrees to allow access to 2 and 4. Am I anywhere close? Should the pins move freely after the circlip is removed, or will I have to drive it out?
How do you drive it out when it is so close to the other cylinder?
You usually have to tap them out due to oil varnish. Tap lightly! If you can brace something against the rod below the wristpin so you don't muck up anything.
Geoff
Well, the heads weren't done today, but promised for noon tomorrow. Seats and guides are in. Valves in the morning.
Gaskets are in my possesion. Ready to install new jug seals. How about that info on proper sequence? I'm ready to go.
Can't get the wrist pins out. Trying to remove # 1 to the rear. The adjoining cylinder is too close to push it. Am I on the right track?
Ha ha.. now I'm ahead. I picked mine up at 4pm and had them installed and torqued down by 5PM.
Off to Hooters now for some beer and wings. It will run tomorrow night.
B
I didn't know this was a contest.
Relax.. its not a contest. (It was supposed to motivate you not piss you off..LOL) I'm busy getting two cars ready for this event. One of them I have to drive to the event. I didnt have time to answer you correctly. I was running late and checked the BBS before I left for the dinner.
Now onto your questions.
Yes.. you nailed the sequence.
Sometimes there is a ton of oil buildup around the ends of the wrist pins. This can make it impossible to slide the wrist pin out.
The other thing you can do is heat the pistons.. then they will slide out. A small propane torch can be used to make a few passes past the piston top. Dont hang out with the flame diectly on the center of the piston.. move it around the sides and such. Then quickly.. try and pull the pin out. I use my finger inside the end of the pin. If this doesnt work.. you'll have to pull the barrels off.
Let me know is this helps... feel free to call me. I'm not in front of the computer during the day from noon until 10pm at night.
B
Sorry for my impatience/frustration. I do realize that you are a busy man like the rest of us. I have a biz to run too, so I'm trying to do this at night and on weekends.
I have plenty of motivation already. It's spelled 914!
Heat didn't work. Screwed with one pin for over three hours. Fug it! Pulled the cylinders off of one side this morning. Replaced gaskets and slid them back on. Took ten minutes. I'll do the other side after work today, and be ready for the heads.
I thought you were trailering your cars? That's a hell of a drive for a weekend get together.
I would call only if I absolutely had to, but I don't have the number
He's driving my car!
Sean, I just realized that after rereading your thread on nededing a ride from the airport. Maybe someone could bring your car to the airport?
Yea! the machinist just called to say my heads are ready. Time to rock and roll. Looks like I got a busy weekend ahead of me. Any last minute advice on the install will be greatly appreciated. I have Tom Wilson's book as a guide, but it was written a long time ago I think.
Slap them on. He who fires the engine last is a rotten egg.. LOL
B
Then I probably stink like eggs already!
Bet I can build a house full of cabinets faster than you!LOL
See.. now your getting the "jist" of my ribbing. Have fun with it.. it helps me get motivated when somebody says I cant do something or they say they can do something better..blah blah..
Your are 100% correct. I can hang cabinets and do *some* wood working that is about it.. I also know when things should be left the pros.
B
I should probably be leaving this to the pros, but I'm just too damn stubborn.
Woo Hoo, I have heads! cylinder gaskets are on and heads will go on tonight. I"ll work till I can't go any longer, then get back on it in the morning. I rise at 5am daily, so I can't work till 3am like Brad does. I'm old and need my sleep.
Damn the torpedo's, full speed ahead!
Heads are on and torqued. I made a dumb mistake that I'll bet none of you ever made before. I put the heads on and ran thru the first torque sequence when i realized I forgot the two pieces of tin that go on with the heads! Doh! Oh well, nice practice run. Take em back off and do it again. I'll retorque in the morning and continue on. So far so good. I'm ready for that cigar.
WooHoo!!! GOOD JOB!
Which pieces where you referring too ?? The bottom pieces can go on after they are torqued (did this today).
My wifes car runs nicely. I'm sure yours will also. Once I figured out I crossed the fuel lines where they enter the engine compartment.. hers fired right up without a hitch and idled high on the cold start AAR.
I wont be back online until tomorrow evening. PM Sean or Geoff Bleyseng for my cell number if you need me.
B
I'm at a swap today.
call my cell if you want brad's
three 1 seven five 5 seven 1 two five 7 (sorry to do that, but incase farmers are out there I make it a bit more difficult)
Today was a good day. Here's a few pics of the finished product ready to go back in. That will be in the morning when I have a few guys to come by and help for a couple of hours. I spent 14 hours today putting it all back together. I know Brad and the rest of you Guru's could have done it faster, but this being my first time, I still feel good about it. Speed was not the issue. Doing it right was. All the hoses and wires have found their proper place (I hope). I was very careful to label everything. This has been an awesome experience. I can't begin to list the things I have learned . If any of you have contemplated doing this on your own, I can only say "Go for it". I have spent a few sleepless nights from the fear of biting off more than I could chew, but it's been worth it. Seeing the finished product ready to go back in is one of the most rewarding feelings I have ever had. Hopefully, tomorrow will write the final chapter to this saga.
Wish me luck and say a prayer to the 914 gods.
Curt
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#2
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I need this peice of tin(ac went away).
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Good Luck!!!!!!!!
Alright... Sounds like you did a great job.
By the looks of your avatar, you seem proud. You should be!!!
Kickass VSG
Let us know how it runs. I only see some minor issues with your harness routing.. besides that nothing jumping out at me. Typically the harness runs underneath the runners (it still runs.. so dont sweat it).
This thread should be an inspiration to all those that are *thinking* about diggining into their own engines.
B
Yes I did some rerouting of the fi harness before it went in. Did a comp test before reinstalling motor.
120,110,120,125. Reinstall took 45 minutes from raising the car, to cinching the four mount bolts. It actually was quicker and easier to go in than to come out. Another two hours to hook up all connections, hoses, shift rod, clutch cable, blah, blah, blah. Fired and ran on the first turn, but hunted idle between 2 to 3K. Hmm, vacuum leak? Found one intake manifold that I had missed tightening the bolts. Fired it again and smooth as silk. That was the only thing I missed. EVERYTHING else was as it should be. Didn't even think of getting new cv joint gaskets, and the old ones were shit, so I'll get those tomorrow, and we'll be on the road.
Then as I'm doing the dance of 914 happiness, a 73, 1.7, signal orange, drives up sounding like pure shit. We had saw this guys car broke down in a parking lot about 6 months ago, and left a note on his car. He came for some help. After checking a few things and giving him the 3rd degree, discovered he had changed the pushrod seals, and failed to readjust the valves afterward. Oh boy, here we go again. I'll pull the valve covers, and see if any thing is amiss. If not, I'll do the adjustment and see what happens. It was very hard to tell him the worst case scenario.
We'll attack that on a new thread.
Thanks for all the support.
As for Brads comment about this being an inspiration: I am a cabinetmaker, not a mechanic. The last time i was inside a motor was 1980 and invloved a very simple 235 chevy six. If i can do this, so can you.
See ya in Hot Springs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last post by me on this thread. She's alive!!!
Just took her on a first test drive and everything seems to fine. One valve sounds a little loose. I'll drive a while this evening and checkit out in the morning.
Thanks to all who have followed my progress.
A special thanks to Brad for the "motivation" LOL
See ya guys in Hot Springs.
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