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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Dropped my front end tonight
Posted by: swood May 17 2006, 12:21 AM
New rotors, bearings, bushings, Bilstein STRUT inserts, calipers ala Eric Shea, new brake lines, 19mm MC.
Maybe...sway bar or at least set up the mounts and cut hole for it and weld u-tab (both courtesy of Engman, nice parts dude) to A-arm.
Maybe new torsion bars...not sure if I need em or not.
S
Posted by: swood May 17 2006, 12:22 AM
Next end.... 
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Posted by: swood May 17 2006, 12:26 AM
artsy fartsy 
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Posted by: Aaron Cox May 17 2006, 01:19 AM
palma is a great color....
nice progress schtevo.....
Posted by: swood May 17 2006, 08:24 AM
palma is a great color....
nice progress schtevo.....
So what do i do next??
Posted by: URY914 May 17 2006, 08:28 AM
When dropping the front end, gravity is your friend. Putting it back in is a PITA.
Posted by: swood May 17 2006, 08:31 AM
palma is a great color....
nice progress schtevo.....
I figure:
swap out M/C with a 19mm
turbo tie rods
swap out the A-arm bushings
clean and re-lube up the (Ithink) stock torsion bar
re-install A-arm (with welded u-tab)
swap out Strut insert
install rotors, brakes, bearings, calipers, rubber brake lines
set toe on front tires
Missing anything or anything out of order?
Posted by: JOHNMAN May 17 2006, 08:48 AM
You got further on this than I did. When I got my gravel pan off I looked at it and decided that it needed to be blasted and repainted, so that is what I ended up doing for the rest of the evening.
My other front axle/struts are assembled and ready to go back in as soon as I drop out my existing parts.
It's not too bad going back in as long as you use a jack to help lift and hold the axle and a-arms while putting the bolts in.
In my opinion, you should change the ball joints while it is apart.
Posted by: Aaron Cox May 17 2006, 10:02 AM
do ball joints and wheel bearings while its out. do as much as you can afford to do, so you wont have to touch it ever again..
Posted by: swood May 17 2006, 10:08 AM
do ball joints and wheel bearings while its out. do as much as you can afford to do, so you wont have to touch it ever again..
That's pretty much what I was thinking.
Don't the ball joints come with the TTR's?
Posted by: Aaron Cox May 17 2006, 10:09 AM
do ball joints and wheel bearings while its out. do as much as you can afford to do, so you wont have to touch it ever again..
That's pretty much what I was thinking.
Don't the ball joints come with the TTR's?
nope. TTR's come with tie rod ends that are effectively a ball joint if you will...
BTW. i have the magic 50 dollar socket that is requires to get the nut off the ball joint.
come get it
Posted by: swood May 17 2006, 10:16 AM
do ball joints and wheel bearings while its out. do as much as you can afford to do, so you wont have to touch it ever again..
That's pretty much what I was thinking.
Don't the ball joints come with the TTR's?
nope. TTR's come with tie rod ends that are effectively a ball joint if you will...
BTW. i have the magic 50 dollar socket that is requires to get the nut off the ball joint.
come get it
Just looked at the parts diagrams again. Ball joint under STRUT insert. Yes, I do needs da magic socket. May I borrows it? Can I have my cute sister who lives on campus pick it up? She may bring you a sixer of New Castle.....
Posted by: Aaron Cox May 17 2006, 10:27 AM
do ball joints and wheel bearings while its out. do as much as you can afford to do, so you wont have to touch it ever again..
That's pretty much what I was thinking.
Don't the ball joints come with the TTR's?
nope. TTR's come with tie rod ends that are effectively a ball joint if you will...
BTW. i have the magic 50 dollar socket that is requires to get the nut off the ball joint.
come get it
Just looked at the parts diagrams again. Ball joint under STRUT insert. Yes, I do needs da magic socket. May I borrows it? Can I have my cute sister who lives on campus pick it up? She may bring you a sixer of New Castle.....
that means i have to grab it on my next trip home..... you know, dont have a garage here on campus LOL.
that would be fine. whyare you scared of me? LOL
AA
Posted by: swood May 17 2006, 10:32 AM
yes, in a brokeback kinda way....LOL
JUst kidding. I'll cruise by. I should be in Coronabad some time soon.
Posted by: Aaron Cox May 17 2006, 10:34 AM
yes, in a brokeback kinda way....LOL
JUst kidding. I'll cruise by. I should be in Coronabad some time soon.
i think i just heard a rental fee LOL
lemme know. i can probably meet ya somewhere that direction....
Posted by: swood May 17 2006, 05:41 PM
yes, in a brokeback kinda way....LOL
JUst kidding. I'll cruise by. I should be in Coronabad some time soon.
i think i just heard a rental fee LOL
lemme know. i can probably meet ya somewhere that direction....
Dude, I offered you beer waaaay back there....
Posted by: Andyrew May 17 2006, 05:45 PM
and your sister...
(just pointing it out)
Posted by: swood May 17 2006, 05:53 PM
and your sister...
(just pointing it out)
Hee Hee! Someones paying attention!
She's a car chick too...67 Chevelle hot rod.What do you guys think about removing the schmutz from the inside of the wheel well? Is it factory or road applied?
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Posted by: mattillac May 17 2006, 10:31 PM
off with the schmutz! 
Posted by: Andyrew May 17 2006, 10:32 PM
I think its undercoating..
Removing it is..
not fun.
Chipping it away is your best bet.
Posted by: swood May 20 2006, 02:37 PM
Back on topic...I got the old ball joints off (without the special tool) I'll need it though to torque it back on properly.
Question of the day for me is how to get the strut insert out of the housing. Don't know what holds it together.
Tips?
Posted by: Eric_Shea May 20 2006, 02:51 PM
Just going off the first picture...
You'll need to take the top nut off and remove the camber plates. Then remove the dust covers (tubes). Then you should see a threaded collar. They could probably be removed without the special wrench by gingerly working a large pipe wrench on the collar.
Aaron may have a large pipe...
wrench.
Better hurry your front calipers are on the way! 
Posted by: swood May 20 2006, 03:00 PM
Just going off the first picture...
You'll need to take the top nut off and remove the camber plates. Then remove the dust covers (tubes). Then you should see a threaded collar. They could probably be removed without the special wrench by gingerly working a large pipe wrench on the collar.
Aaron may have a large pipe...
wrench.
Better hurry your front calipers are on the way!
Aye...I see it know. Piece of cake...or in Aarons case...tube cake.
Can't wait to get the fronts Eric, the rears are sweet!
Posted by: swood May 20 2006, 06:36 PM
A little heat and the OG rubber bushings gave it up. Came right off.
Now to decide if I want to paint, powder coat or just clean up the a-arms. Just a tiny bit of surface rust. Not bad at all.
Got the strut out too. Is all that oil around it for cooling or something?
Posted by: swood May 20 2006, 10:33 PM
Ok guys. I'm going to just keep posting pics and questions in this thread till I'm almost done.
I pulled the torsion bars and found the drivers side front worn down pretty good. Should I scrap it? I'm thinking so. What do you think caused this?
What should I replace it with? Stock? slightly larger? I don't mind NOT spending a few hundred bucks on T-bars...
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Posted by: Aaron Cox May 20 2006, 10:35 PM
steve. ill be here tomorrow (corona) if its convenient for you.
if not, i can brig the tool to pomona.
AA
Posted by: swood May 20 2006, 10:43 PM
Tomorrow is no good. I'll be passing through mid week though. Are you in Pomona every day?
Posted by: Aaron Cox May 20 2006, 10:55 PM
Tomorrow is no good. I'll be passing through mid week though. Are you in Pomona every day?
cept weekends....
should be there.
Posted by: swood May 20 2006, 11:16 PM
Last question of the night.
Just got the bellows off the steering rack. Gonna swap out the M/C next. Is it easier to take the rack out to do the turbo tie rods or just do it with the rack in?
I haven't yet figured out what part comes off the stock rack to do the upgrade...no instructions included. DOH!
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Posted by: swood May 20 2006, 11:34 PM
R side
Getting a headache....
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Posted by: dinomium May 21 2006, 12:29 AM
I leave the rack in when I do the Turbo tierods. Getting the belows back on is the real hard part. I used dishwashing liquid and dental hooks to replace the belows and springs.The stuff that will unscrew from the ends of the rack goes! The eye and the peice behind it. The tie rods should have thier own sexy boot to replace...
Posted by: swood May 21 2006, 12:51 AM
I leave the rack in when I do the Turbo tierods. Getting the belows back on is the real hard part. I used dishwashing liquid and dental hooks to replace the belows and springs.The stuff that will unscrew from the ends of the rack goes! The eye and the peice behind it. The tie rods should have thier own sexy boot to replace...
Yep, new boots included. Do you mean this part unthreads?
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Posted by: dinomium May 21 2006, 01:12 AM
I *think* it is two peices IIRC. The eye link is threaded and the brass colored piece is just like a washer. Dont forget the spacer that came in your kit.
Are you planning on lowering the car? Get a bumpsteer kit either way...
I always say I will, but never go back and do it!
Posted by: swood May 21 2006, 09:33 AM
YEah I plan on lowering it a bit. Where does the bump steer kit go?
Posted by: JOHNMAN May 21 2006, 09:59 AM
Is it just me or does that MC look a bit wet?
I put my rebuilt front end back in the car sans tie rods and torsion bar seals (still waiting on said parts)....
P.S.
Anyone know how thick the bump steer/rack spacer washers are? I will probably just make some and get longer bolts.
Posted by: Aaron Cox May 21 2006, 10:02 AM
steve steve steve...
yes. replace the torsion bars. that is casued by worn bushings that sag, and let the bar rub in side the housing.
the worn part is now a weak part and can snap.
i think i have a very nice set of stock 914 bars here that are in gooood shape.
next. i also have the magic turbo tie rod wrench you need. again, gratis (it also is used for ball joint tightening)
and yes, that UNSCREWS from the rack. have you looked at the new tie rods? look how they screw into the rack. they have their own "bellows attachment" piece...
bumpsteer kit. two washers that raise the rack a 1/2 inch. they go under the rack, between the rack and the crossmember....
come get your tools.
Posted by: Aaron Cox May 21 2006, 10:04 AM
also... did you MEASURE your old tie rod lengths?
if you did (wise), then set your new TTR's to the old lengths, and you should be really close to your old alignment. close enuff to get it to an alignment shop.
AA
Posted by: swood May 21 2006, 10:19 AM
Thank you Corona Boy. I have the TTR wrench...that will work on the ball joint?
I'd like to consider those torsion bars, thanks.
Yes the MC is leaking and on it's way out.
Thanks guys.
Posted by: Aaron Cox May 21 2006, 10:21 AM
Thank you Corona Boy. I have the TTR wrench...that will work on the ball joint?
I'd like to consider those torsion bars, thanks.
Yes the MC is leaking and on it's way out.
Thanks guys.
whats on the otherside of the TTR wrench. should have a little "hook" right?
this is if you have the SRP wrench....
Posted by: Aaron Cox May 21 2006, 10:31 AM
stevo,
i took a quick look on my rack of porsche stuffs, and didnt see the t-bars. may have hucked em.
but these 2 bad boys are in the truck waiting for you...
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Posted by: swood May 21 2006, 04:02 PM
YEah, that's the wrench I have with the hook. I might manage without the ball joint tool, but I'll let you know. Bummer about the T-bars. Maybe I'll post a want ad for em.
Posted by: swood May 21 2006, 07:47 PM
How about locating the U-tab on the A-arm? I've found so far a dimension of 5 1/8" from the center of the ball joint. Sound right?
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