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Posted by: pfan12000 May 30 2006, 06:01 PM

Hi,

Anyone has posted the procedure to replace the (behind flywheel) crank main seal by removing only the tranny and leaving the engine mounted in the car?

Are flywheel bolts reusable or should one replace with new ones everytime the flywheel is removed?

Posted by: Mueller May 30 2006, 06:10 PM

one could look at the Haynes manual for guidance

flywheel bolts and the locking plate (and felt washer) should be replaced, it's cheap insurance.....

hardest part will be holding up the rear of the engine, but it's do-able....

Posted by: Headrage May 30 2006, 06:11 PM

You can replace the rear main seal with the motor in the car. You have to have a way to support it and remove the tranny.

The bolts need to be replaced as well as the washer. It's also a great opportunity to replace the pilot bearing, clutch fork bushings and felt washer.

Posted by: So.Cal.914 May 30 2006, 06:23 PM

Just bring the trans down so it has clearance to be removed. place jackstand

with a block of wood on top under engine, make sure it is stable. Remove trans from car,

remove flywheel and the rear seal. I use a hook tool, a small piece of wood and

a pair of visegrips, useing the piece of wood and the grips as a leaver. Install

new seal and reassemble. Have fun..

Posted by: pfan12000 May 30 2006, 10:02 PM

thanks guys,

I have access to a lift and a lift table to hold up the engine and tranny. I have done a clutch job many times on a 914 and 911 but this time I'm looking for shortcuts since my spare time is less available with a 2.5y old daughter. This engine is in need of rebuilding and for now I just want to stop the leak which makes for embarassingly smoky stops at lights.

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty May 30 2006, 11:02 PM

I can't believe you've done "many" clutch jobs on 914s and never just pulled the tranny. There's a well known Porsche guru who does them with the tranny hanging from the axles, still in the car. I thought EVERYBODY did clutch jobs with just the tranny out. BTW, replace the f/w o-ring, the washer, and the felt ring (if it's hard). Forget the bolts. 80 ft lbs is about half the torque those bolts can take, and they'll never break if torqued properly. Oil the seal on both the inner and outer surfaces, and push it in. Make sure it's seated evenly all the way around. BTW, when you get it down to an hour, call me. I'll have a job for you ............... Have fun. The Cap'n

Posted by: pfan12000 May 31 2006, 11:32 AM

Thanks Captain,
I'll call you when I can do it in less than 1 h.

Posted by: jr91472 May 31 2006, 12:42 PM

Follow the Cap'n advice to the letter. Then do a search on rear main seals for other tips. These buggers love to leak if you don't put them in correctly...btdt

Posted by: Marty Yeoman May 31 2006, 01:26 PM

Be sure to check the sealing surface on the flywheel. If it isn't perfect (no pits, scratches, grooves etc) install a sleeve. It costs a lot less than a new flywheel and your new seal will appreciate it.

The transmission isn't all that heavy. When you are ready to reinstall it can be manhandled fairly easily.

Take your time.

Posted by: zymurgist May 31 2006, 03:04 PM

Where are you finding sleeves? Granted, I don't know all the VW guys in my area, but none of them seemed to have any idea where to find a sleeve to fit one of these flywheels.