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Posted by: Dan (Almaden Valley) May 31 2006, 07:28 PM

Got everything back together...

Screw in BBS 80mm studs. 1/2 inch spacers in rear and 3/4 inch spacers in front (thanks Mike Mueller),

Good thing I did this. these old cars are just not very square....
right rear was rubbing on the inside fender well...pretty much the entire semicircle.
left rear was rubbing in just a small spot. Due to my pretty aggressive negative camber. -2.75 in the rear.

car is bound to be faster since I dont have a built in rubber brake system now

I have had 2 other 4 cylinder 914s with very similar setups with no rubbing issues.

Stance looks much better now.

Posted by: jd74914 May 31 2006, 07:55 PM

Where and what did you get for BBS studs Dan?

Posted by: Dan (Almaden Valley) May 31 2006, 08:09 PM

for running large wheel spacers...needed to get my wheels out further.

BBS studs are racing studs. very strong...not the usual cheapo buggy shop stuff.

14x1.5 x 80mm

Got them from www.bimmerworld.com

Not cheap but they worked for my application.

I have 4 bolt hubs with billet front hubs running vented rotors.
I needed screw in studs to work witih the billet front hubs since they are not able to be drilled for pull through studs.

Is this what you were asking?

Posted by: Aaron Cox May 31 2006, 08:14 PM

how do you secure screw in studs? locktite?

Posted by: Dan (Almaden Valley) May 31 2006, 08:18 PM

Yes Aaron.

lots of red loctite #271. And then torque to about 135 foot pounds.

I will recheck torque tomorrow. they sure do look nice filling out the fenders much better.

this was the method the Mike Mueller used on his car with good success.

and it sure is a lot better than those blasted lug bolts

Posted by: Aaron Cox May 31 2006, 08:21 PM

trusting my wheels (and life) to red loctite is not appealing

be safe out there

Posted by: Dave_Darling May 31 2006, 08:33 PM

I'd hazard a guess that the threads are doing much more to hold the wheels on than the loc-tite is... The loc-tite is, after all, just supposed to keep the studs from unscrewing themselves.

Probably something to work into your "between-race inspection" routine, though--make sure the studs are still in tight.

--DD

Posted by: bd1308 May 31 2006, 08:34 PM

Silly AAron, thats what duct tape is for

b

Posted by: Aaron Cox May 31 2006, 08:38 PM

maybe use a paint reference mark to see if they have moved.

Posted by: jd74914 May 31 2006, 09:18 PM

Yep, Thanks

Posted by: Brando May 31 2006, 10:23 PM

After threading the screws in... I'd definitely tack weld 'em in. But thats only because if I were going with studs, I would make them permanent.

Posted by: Dan (Almaden Valley) May 31 2006, 10:24 PM

Yoehhh,

Loctite is not retaining the stud...it is torqued.....the loctite is only there to help insure it stays put....nothing more....kind of like a lock-washer.

having a screw in stud is no different than having a lug bolt or a lug nut on a stud....

You check to make sure you have proper length and proper torque...yes they are marked so I can tell when I pull the wheels if they have moved.

Just because it is different doesn't make it unsafe...just a different way to do a job.

Kind of like the flack I took for mounting my oil cooler laying flat in the floor of the trunk. Just a different way of skinning the cat.

Posted by: bernbomb914 May 31 2006, 10:46 PM

i have had no problems with screw in studs. I also have a rear mounted oil cooler which works very good

Bernie

Posted by: Mueller May 31 2006, 11:23 PM

Arron and others, don't take this personally...


You f'n anti-screw-in wheel stud people need to pull your head out of your @ss !!!!!!

Screw-in studs used with nuts are far superior to the stock "bolts", yet you fling or flung your car around for years using that method....

The only reason for the bad press on screw-in studs is from dumb, cheap owners that used the stuff sold at the bug shops or JC Whitney that used inferior material and never heard of a thread locking compound.

The good studs are not threaded all the way, they have a X amount of threads that go into the flange and when tightened you not only have the threads in tension, there is a clamping force between the diameter of the body of the unthreaded stud and the flange. Now install the wheel and add a nut, once tightened you have tension of the stud as well as clamping between the nut and the wheel.

With just a bolt like previous, you have tension of the bolt as well as friction against the wheel, the problem is that the friction can change so that the tension can change as well.

With the loctite that Dan is using, the only way (if applied properly to clean threads), the only way for those studs to come loose would be to apply 500° to the threads while at the same time trying to remove them with tools.

Since all the studs are the same length, it should be pretty damn obvious if stud is working it's way out.

(I don't give a hoot if you are using 911 parts now, before when running stock /4 parts, you had bolts)

I guess the BMW Club Racing guys are a bunch of idiots since they all use screw-in studs which are 12mm instead of our 14mm studs

off soapbox

Posted by: trekkor Jun 1 2006, 12:02 AM

I like it.

What is the price, please?


KT

Posted by: Brando Jun 1 2006, 12:17 AM

Where can they be aquired?

Posted by: sixnotfour Jun 1 2006, 01:47 AM

Posted by: STL914 Jun 1 2006, 05:17 AM

Dan, what size are the clearance holes for the studs? I'm planning on having a set of spacers made for my car and had planned on drilling 9/16 diameter holes thru the spacers. Are yours hub centric?

Gary

Posted by: ChrisNPDrider Jun 1 2006, 07:15 PM

(I've always wanted to use that one)

Posted by: Dan (Almaden Valley) Jun 1 2006, 07:29 PM

I'll try to take some pics this weekend. The holes in the spacers for the studs to clear....? Check with mike Mueller. I would say they are about 16 or so MM. Since they fit the 14 MM studs pretty tight.

Cost was I believe about $7 per stud. not cheap...but not a crappy littel buggy stud either.

They are threaded ~15mm on the end that goes into the hub. Then there is a clear shank with no threads about 20mm. then the rest is threaded to accept your wheel and lug nut.
The clear shank also allows you to torque the stud into the hub with material to actually torque against.
No the spacers are not hub centric... but since I am using steel ball seat nuts they center the wheel nicely as long as you tighten them in consecutive order to let the wheel center on the ball seats and then torque correctly.
drove the car to my office today and all worked fine. No wheels out of whack and when I got home retorqued and all were as torqued the night before.
With the 80 mm studs I have about 5 threads on the out side of the open head lug nut. That is running stock 4 bolt fuchs with 1/2 inch spacers on the rear and 3/4 inch spacers on the front.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jun 1 2006, 08:10 PM

ok.. now i understand. you torque them into the shoulder...

i pictured a threaded rod... with loctite holding it.

sounds safe enuff

AA

Posted by: Dan (Almaden Valley) Jun 1 2006, 08:12 PM

Yes

Posted by: trekkor Jun 1 2006, 11:31 PM

How do you tighten the studs? Double nut?


KT

Posted by: MattR Jun 1 2006, 11:36 PM

I've got one of those too! Its sitting in my driveway next to my turbocharged grasshopper

Posted by: Mueller Jun 1 2006, 11:37 PM

yep......the 130ftlbs of torque seems a little too much for the initial tightening of the studs.

Posted by: MattR Jun 1 2006, 11:37 PM

The "proper" way to torque a stud is with a stud tool. Matco and SnapOn both have nice ones.

But it will set you back more then a set of brake ducts... so I'd venture to guess a double nut would work.

Posted by: Mueller Jun 1 2006, 11:39 PM

kinda pricey is the word.....not worth it for 16 studs....