A guy over on the bird board has a post about 96 amp alternators that are used on VW transporters. He said they are almost a direct replacement (except the wiring plug needs to be changed). He list a Carquest part number (14062) but my local Carquest say that isn’t a valid part number. All the ones he had listed were 55 or 75 amps.
I did some digging at places like AutoZone and Advance Auto to find that the Vanagans from the 80’s have 96amp alternators. Does anyone know if these are the same (physical) size as ours? It would be nice to have a 96 amp alt.
Has anyone done this or any other “update” on the alternator?
**and yes I know that you can get a 90 amp from one of the vendors. I’m not trying to take sales away form him, I was really looking at what options I have.
Thanks,
Mike
i have been wondering this as well do you got some part # for the 75 & the 96 amp units? and years they was on ?
james
A later bus has a 70amp, "should" bolt on. Vanagon alt won't work.
davep is about the only game if you want more punch.
here is a 90 amp.....
looks like it may fit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Alternator-1986-1992-Volkswagen-Vanagon-2-1L-2109cc_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33573QQitemZ8068099236QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
14062 = 1976 Porsche 912E, OE 0 120 450 001, 70 Amp, Diameter is 138 mm, CW rotation...clocking appears about the same, air cooling is built into back and does not use the plate. Plug is similar to the one on the relay board of a 914. Nose casting looks slightly different. Don't know if it would line up or not.
Also used on the 1976 - 1979 Type II Vanagon w/ OE 021 903 023E
Stock 914 is 125 mm diameter, CW rotation.
Mounting bolts are the same on both styles.
For Aaron:
14969 = '92 - '96 Vanagon , 65 Amp, (Optional 14471 w/ AC, 90 Amp), Diameter 125 mm, wierd mounting face.
13159 = '83 - '80 Vanagon optional 65 Amp (Optional 13122, 90 Amp), Diameter 125 mm, different mounting bolt sizes, triangular face plate mounting.
80-83 vanagon is a 65 amp, 83 1/2 and up has a different body style, not a bolt on, they don't list the amps
The Carquest part number for the 75 amp is 21151.
Your best bet is to have a stock one modified for whatever god-awful amps you want....expensive, yes....but it will FIT.
then if you are Muller, you would re-engineer the whole damn thing so nothing would fit.
I think the 75 amp vw alt is modified to 90 amp by someone. This thread at Pelican's tells the story.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=275868&highlight=914+alt+90
There is a Bosch alt for the Westfallia camper conversions in the 1970 to whenever the water boxers started that is the same size physically but with higher output. The pigtail that connects it to the electrical system has two of the wires switched, sorry I forget which but that is why you need the wires. We have one in our 1974 2L stocker and it has worked great for about 5 years now.
So Dave what do you do? Hop up the stock 914 55 amp alt to 70 or 75 amps?
Mine are the stock 50 amp fully rebuilt with trick windings that put out a minimum of 90 amps. No dicking about trying to make it fit or problems like the 'too-long' posts on the Bosch rebuilds. I just reccomend a new harness that will handle the additional current. I make very little margin on these alternators, it is just a service I offer because I can help you guys out.
I will add that davep's alt is priced right in line with the high amp bug (type 1) units, he stands behind his product, it fits the first time AND you are supporting a club member, who has invested time and money to bring a product that members have said they want.
OK, Better jump in here.
I'm the guy who got the alternator from Carquest. It was nominally rated at 75 amps. A 50 amp on my race car would not pull the cooling fans and other goodies on the car. When I received the alternator it came with a test printout showing the actual output at 96 amps above 3000 rpm. It was 75 amps at idle.It has run great in the race car so far and that is the oputput when we tested it. I run a total of five cooling fans, an msd unit, and two electric fuel pumps on the car so there is alot of current draw. My gauge now stays steady with no drop above 2000 rpm.
I only had to make two changes to get the unit to fit that took about half an hour to an hour. On the vino scale it was a two glasser. (for those of you unfamiliar with the vino scale it is 1 glass for the simplest job, say changing a tire or windshield wiper blades and 5 for pulling an engine or dismantling a transmission etc. the scale only goes from 1 to 5 because after 5 glasses most people can't remember how many more glasses they've had)
The first change was to move the mount for the alternator forward about 3/8's of an inch. required ovalling the holes in the mount. I also used the oppotunity to work on my welding skills and reinforced the mount. It's been a problem in the past. That resolved my belt alignment issues and the belt is fine right up to 7000 rpm. The other was that the post on the alternator for the lead to the starter was larger than the old one so I had to change the terminal on the wire. That's the extent of it.
The part number is the one on my invoice. I'm still trying to get a chance to get under the car and see if I can find a number there. I had a family member pass away recently so I've had other things on my mind but I'll try and get to it this weekend.
Randy
Car 54 Here I Am G prod SCCA Porsche.
Holder of the SCCA Cal CLub points lead in G production and holder of the lap record in G prod at Buttonwillow raceway park
Attached image(s)
Well, there you go then. A 75 amp (nominal) unit that can be made to fit relatively easily. Or you can get my 90 amp (nominal) unit that fits without any modifications. You get to choose the output level you need and are willing to pay for.
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