long story about the down time on my car....
something along the lines of "smaller venturi's and raby jetting suggestion" to optimize performance....
blah blah blah... remove cold start stuff like a few guru's said... "why is it dumping 8 gallons of fuel down each throat" blah blah blah.... call brad... put cold start pistons back in... and finish the carb rebuild....
anyway. so last weekend had the car close.... but my lame dial fuel regulator croaked... and was spitting fuel out the accedl jets at "3" PSI... but falling on its face at 2.5....
Problem solved. KaptKaos sold/traded me a CB rotary internal regulated pump...
car idles great. starts up first crank. roll onto throttle, idle circuits werkin bitchin, and i was getting a little hesitation onto main tranisiton but would do OK at WOT.....
up the main jet to a 135 from a 130 and it is BADASS....
totally smooth thru the powerband, no smoke, no hiccups, backfires or coughing.....
runs AWESOME. i am soooo stoked. car flies. lit up the 8" fuchs wrapped in yokohamas like butta LOL.....
i have a slight crack in a header weld and need to fix it....
gotta throw in the short geared tranny... and go fight some electrical gremlins, and i am good to go...
my dad liked the second gear chirp LOL
AA
Holy Crap.............Did you see that .........................?......................
wait........
There it is (good job aaron )
Attached image(s)
Aaron, do you have a list of your entire engine formula/specs list
blah....
see if i can remember...
71x94 2L
8.5 ish compression
Eurorace header
Big cam....
Mallory CDI box, Unilite Dizzy, and CDI coil on the firewall....
2L heads, with SS valves, big springs, and stock valve sizes....
38mm oil pump, front cooler, mocal thermostat, setrab cooler...
weber 44's, 34 vents, 50 idles, 175 airs, 135 mains....
stock gear box as of now....
have my A F ZDFlip S ZD bpx to go in....
sorry... gear ratios LOL
[quote name='Aaron Cox' date='Jun 8 2006, 09:24 PM' post='699158']
[quote name='jd74914' post='699155' date='Jun 8 2006, 09:23 PM']
[quote name='Aaron Cox' post='699148' date='Jun 9 2006, 12:14 AM']
[/quote]
with a stock 5th for cruising.... (have to wind out 4th to be in the power band for 5th tho....)
[/quote]
Have to wind out 4th, bet that will break your heart. Sounds nice...
3rd at 6k is about 65....
4th at 6k is 90
90 in 5th is about 4200 rpm
im set LOL
Great job!!
Now come up here so I can work you over at the a/x
KT
Congrats man! Drivin is better than wrenching, at least I think it is!
Congrats AAron. Great news!
Hey wait, where'd that last one come from?
Congrats AAron. Great news!
No kidding, very impressive.....we (most of us anyway) are not worthy!
Congrats!!!
Thats a big accomplishment... Lots of work into that car. Looks and runs awesome, what more could you ask for?!
-Tony
Ya!!!!!
Now.... Were are the pics of your lowly 2.0 smoking the tires?
I could never get mine to do that... then again I had 57rwhp... lol
What is your estimated hp?
Andrew
Good Job!
cb rotarys work very well. i've been beating that horse for some time. now that you've got it running good...i bet you can go down to 45s on the idles. sounds like you're ready to drive to pland.
k
As long as it don't overheat you be cool.....
Grats Aa!
good job Aaron!!!!!
Good Job! Can't wait to ride in it.
Wanna trade?
Did you get time to put on the new stacks??or are ya still dicking with them LOL
Congratulations.
hey, is there a trick to get the rotor out of the mallory? it's either a snug fit or the little screw retains it, and i don't want to reef on it. i think my power loss may be due to a toasted rotor and cap. it's as it came to me from daveh and i have no idea how many miles he put on it prior to.
k
yeah.. they are on there snug....
grab and pull, maybe twist just a tad.....
BTW - caps are like 25 bucks (i broke one )
yep. cap and rotor run the better part of $40(damn). they seem to last tho. hopefully that's my problem.
k
So, where's my ride?
sounds schweeeeeeeeeet
Great
your's gets running, mine goes down
b
Aaron,
Where did you mount your CB Rotary pump? I have one waiting to go in...
Thanks.
-Aaron
Any tips on wiring it up or mouning it? Do you happen to have any pics?
Thanks!
-Aaron
i had a facet on rubber isolators up front.... so this went in the same spot...
i can take some pics...
or you can come over and help me diagnose a small lean stumble on transition:)
I'd be happy to do that! I'm most comfortable with Dell's, but I should be able to help. Are you anywhere near John's machine shop? I'll probably be there next weekend...
You are always welcome up here, I have a full compliment of carb toys and seeing as I'm a Dad now it can be hard to steal away some time...
Let me know either way.
-Aaron
ive got the web's 95% there.... everything i read says it is venturi selection... but the sweet spot on this motor BEGINS at 3500... so i may just have to deal with it...
we also think that we might be able to "trick" this transition with more accell pump squirt...
AA
What vents, E-tubes, mains, and idles do you have in them? What size are the bodies?
-Aaron
weber 44's f11, 135 mains, 50 idles 175 air....
What size venturi?
34's
I'd play with the airs first myself - and maybe the mains. You can change the curve by changing the mains and airs at the same time (going up or down on both). You can change the timing by some degree (and top end richness) by changing just the airs alone. I ended up with a strange combinations on a few street motors before... Typically due to more carb than motor
Several people sell replacement E-Tubes for Webers and others have had luck changing them to solve problems like this, but I'd have to see/feel it before I suggested changing from the factory default. If it's a good buck/stumble it might be in the cards...
Do you have an O2 sensor on it (even a cheap CB one)?
-Aaron
No 02 sensor....
and these were a starting point for jetting from Jake...
dont have many jets to play with....
Mains and Airs aren't too expensive... I wouldn't hesitate to increase the mains or decrease the airs (seeing as it responded well before). Maybe someone on the board has a stash of parts you can play with.
While starting points are a great help, don't hesitate to start to play - small steps. I'd go to a 140 main and see what happens... If that's not quite it, leave the 140 in and move down to a 170 air.
Again, I'd have to feel it to see. An O2 sensor would really help here - even a cheap one. I'll ask around and see if anyone has some jets you can borrow.
-Aaron
Oh... I do have jet reamers and gauges if you want to go that route too... Let me know and I'll get them to you.
Aaron.. i had 130's in there... and was falling on its face.... put the 135's in... and off it went.....
i think the mains are spot on... gut tells me just a little fat tho.....
wish i had a box of jets....
thanks for your help mang
AA
My jet gauges are only whole numbers, but you could use my reamers to try a 132.5. If you have a noticable stumble you are going lean... Maybe we could try a smaller air corrector to bring the mains in sooner.
I'll ask around...
-Aaron
I'm glad you finally got it running though
these cars are fun when they work...
Here's to longevity and high relibility <<-cokes, I dont drink...Diet too, AA likes diet coke(IIRC)
b
Aaron... you make me want to drive out to pasadena....
when are you going to be at johns?
the other AA
Hey, now that it runs and drives like a raped ape, let's drop the trans so it's on jackstands again!
hey joe!
id be interested in the 140 mains if you dont mind! mighty gracious of you....
accel pumps...
i believe CCW is more pump.... but not quite sure... i need to go play with mine...
AA
John hopes to have my stuff done this week, but you know how it goes
If he does get it done I'd try and drive down Saturday - If not you are welcome here any time.
-Aaron
Hey all...
was down at johns and claytons....
after many a test drive and jet swap... it is determined that the beast has a monster cam... and pulls from 3.5k to 6500.... and wishes to go farther with the 34 vents...
problem is... low end driveability blows... cant tune out the transition flat spot, due to too low of air speed.
I need some 32 venturi's for a weber 44 IDF. i have 36's to trade..... if that will suffice...
please help
car is scary fast....
richard...
that would rock...
need some 36's?
Aaron,
You might try some bigger idle jets. My car has a flat spot w/ 60's that goes away w/ 65's. I am running 34mm vents, 132 mains & 180 air on Dellorto drla 40's. My engine is a 2056 w/ 8.5:1 compression. Running a Mallory distributor with 18 degees of advance in the distributor set at 12 degrees initial.
mark...
we put 55's in and no real change... just got sloppier on take off....
i run 12 initial, 28 final.... in my mallory...
94's here and about 8.5:1..... 60's seem huge!
currently 50 idles, 175 airs, 135 mains, 50 accel, f11 emuls..... 34 vents....
AA
Check your Accelerator pump linkage Adjustment. when does it start to shoot?
Where you at tomorrow? I'll be heading out to perris
hey, when daveh started his engine with my carbs, the "recomendation" was start it with 45s on the idles. pull a plug and check the color. i'm going to toss a set (45) in. i'm curious to see if the idle/air mixture screws will be a bit more sensitive.
34mm vents in the 44s for the "new onion" as per jake. 2056 w/one of his cams. a tip, if everything goes to hell quickly, check the cap and rotor first thing. that's why my "hill power" dissappeared. the silver gets a engine compartment douche and it's bottom cleaned today.
k
richard.... in corona today... work till 4:30....
Dell's and Webers are different beasts. A Dell is quite happy to have a 60 idle, where the Weber will run way to rich there... Apples to oranges.
Aaron, Weber vents are still availble if you choose to go that way. I'd still like to see you richen up the mains or choke down the airs just to see what happens...
-Aaron
I'd think with a big cam and those vents you'd need the 55's, but the car will tell you...
Do realize you need to be dead nuts on in sync (I have a nice snail style sync meter you can borrow) and you must reset the idle volume screws every time you change the idle jets. Other wise you won't get a true feeling for the change.
-Aaron
right. we did that. carbs are dead nutz...
all flowing same amount of air thru the snail....
we put 55's in, and leaned it out 1/2 turn.... made it idle......
with the 50's in, idle mix screws are about 2.5 turns out...
Let me convey my recent experience with my 912E. I just installed a 2056 which I built with Jake parts. Heads are from HAM with stock 2.0L valves and very small CC. I calculated 9.4 CR . 40MM webers with 34MM venturies. Jake said to run 130 main, 200 air and a 60 idle. The carbs had 55's in them and I drilled to what I thought was 60. I had the wrong drill and they are about 63. The engine will only idle at 1500 RPM with the 4 idle screws all the way in. It is VERY rich! I'm still using a 009 , just to get it up and running. I've ordered 55's and 60's . BTW the engine runs strong now.. oil smells like gas. Any suggestions?????? Al
change the jets and the oil. start with either one, i'd do the 50s first. your bottom end response will surprize you. if you've been trying to seat the idle mix screws in too tight grooves wear in needle. used carbs should always be checked for this. also the little o-rings. they crack and turn to crap. same for the idle jet holders.
with the header, low gearing, and carbs you're not going to sneaking up on anyone aaron.
k
aaron,
perhaps i should clarify my request....
a pic of the new pump mounted in the front trunk so as to provide a visual reference for those who may wish to duplicate your set up!!!
cheers.....
So i take it Aa-Ron you are not running a Fuel regulator in your car?
I don't think he'll be sneaking. You'll just hear a roar similar to a T-Rex then a black blur fly past.
Unless you're on the freeway. Then you'll hear what sounds like a dying hippopotomus' groans as he downshifts and eagerly attempts to catch you, until he hits 5th gear and tops out at 105.
He has a stock 5th gear....
Twystd1
werd... wich is still in the powerband on the upshift to 5th
huge shout out to craig downs.. for hooking me up wth 32 vents..
ok.. wonderbox tranny is in...
header is out, to go get beadblasted and have a crack welded up....
old tranny needs a bath...
scott... here is your pump picture.....
i call this pose the "ryan seacrest" LOL
the tranny... old and new
scotty... here be your pump picture...
closer...
and the euro race header...
aaron,
thanks for the pic.
you have your car up in the same fashion i consider to be a great idea for engine removal. the concern voiced by others was the stability of the front on the ramps. any probs?
my car goes under the knife this weekend. i am asking for time for fathers day. time to do whatever the hell i want without having to worry about anything else. priceless.......
the ramps have 3" "wheel cannot roll off" bumps on them....
safer than jackstands....
and use big 6 ton jackstands under the trailing arm....
i wish i woulda filled the tranny while it was out.....
i have no pump.. nor a squirt bottle.... just 1 gal of coastal 90w....
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