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Posted by: grasshopper Jun 9 2006, 08:32 PM

ok, So I want to go to a local get together...probably about an hour or so away. How hot should my oil temp be getting?? After about thirty minutes or so, the oil temps start approaching around 215. I have a feeling that is to hot. We usually shut the engine off and let it cool down. It seems to run great. We stopped by britt (bd1308)s house, and he said it was running really good. It Idles at about 900RPMs, and runs great all the way up to 6000RPM. I have checked all the engine tin. There are a few gaps in it, but nothing really large..maybe a quarter inch or so... could leaking heat exchagers cause it to overheat too?? You would think I would learn something after being here for almost two years, But NOOOOooooooo..... THANKS

Posted by: JP Mikey Jun 9 2006, 08:43 PM

180-200 good
200-225 warm
225-250 warmer
250-275 hot
275-300 real hot
300-325 too fuching hot
325-350 bring $$$$$$$

Posted by: wertygrog Jun 9 2006, 08:51 PM

So how do these numbers corrospond with my center console oil temp gauge? Good as long as it stays well out of the red stripe, right?

brent

Posted by: grasshopper Jun 9 2006, 08:59 PM

I recommend getting a new oil temp gauge from pelican. You have to use a 911 sender, but it actually gives you numbers, not just a line...

Posted by: JP Mikey Jun 9 2006, 09:29 PM

The stock 914 oil temp gauges w/o numbers were worthless 30 years ago...what makes you think they got more accurate?

Posted by: grasshopper Jun 9 2006, 09:33 PM

it at least gives you an idea of what temp you are running...like actually numbers. Not just a green and red line....

Posted by: Demick Jun 10 2006, 10:38 AM

Numbers I go by:

180-200 good
200-230 warm
230-245 hot
250 shut it down

I see 215 all the time. Nothing to be concerned about or stop the car over.

Posted by: bd1308 Jun 10 2006, 01:18 PM

hey...It ran great at MY house

and mine is STILL down. I have an idea for the engine tray though. I ended up making one on my own, and decided instead of a complete "channel" for the seal, I would tack on little C clamp things every 1/2 inch or so...still holds it in and less fab'ing.

b, who just remembered he has a 30 or 40 buck piece of 22GA he needs to return for some extra $$.

Posted by: r_towle Jun 10 2006, 02:56 PM

Britt,
I made the engine tray/shelf and the channel out of 18 guage...way to thick, but it can be done.

I think next time (god forbid) I would use 22 guage for the channel.

Cut a piece about 1.25 inches wide,
take vise grips or plyers and fold over the edges to get it to start taking shape...
slowly bang with a hammer till you get it to curve around to become like the channel that you need.

It only took a few hours, and it matches pretty well, and holds the rubber fine.
If you use thin metal, pop rivet it to the engine shelf...alot easier than trying to get two different guages to weld up right...

Rich

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 10 2006, 03:02 PM

The old school method is to remove the dipstick and as long as you can hold it, slowly passing it from hand to hand, your OK

Posted by: grasshopper Jun 10 2006, 09:02 PM

wow, I dont know what happened, but I am running a lot cooler today. It was about 20 degrees cooler than what it usually is running though. I was constant at about 190 today, so I think I am good. Thanks for the numbers guys!

Posted by: Lawrence Jun 10 2006, 11:26 PM

I agree. Think about it. You want the engine hot enough to get rid of accumulated moisture and contaminants. Water boils at 212 degrees.

I'm happy very 215. My biggest concern is that the /6 doesn't get hot enough when I'm just cruising the 10 miles to work in early spring or late fall.

-Rusty