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Posted by: scottb Jun 10 2006, 02:04 PM

my $5k engine is going to have carbs. my current is FI.

so i know i need to cap off the fuel return, do a jumper on the fuel pump for constant pressure.... what else?

is there a definitive list? i would like to make this as painless as possible so when the motor arrives, i have made the needed changes or modifications to ease things along.

i will keep a list of comments and ultimately post what i am told and what i find to work for future folks making the changes....

thanks in advance...

Posted by: brant Jun 10 2006, 02:08 PM

you'll have to change fuel pumps to one with a much lower operating pressure/volume.

carbs like 3-5psi, unlike the 30psi that your current pump puts out... ...Fire! plus get a decent regulator (or a cheap one with a decent guage to make sure it is working)

also, for the 999th time..
why cap the return
a recirculatory fuel system is better, and more powerful for any engine wether it be f.i. or carbed.

brant

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jun 10 2006, 02:11 PM

CBperformance.com

buy the 200 buck 914 linkage kit. Tall manifolds, best linkage.... it is the cats meow.... the bees knees...

pics in my blog.

also.. BUY the internally regulated 3.5PSI rotary pump they sell. THE best investment.....

i finally bought one...

AA

Posted by: scottb Jun 10 2006, 02:20 PM

cbperformance lists 2 pumps...rotary pump 5 and rotary pump 3.... which one?

cheers....

scott

Posted by: Aaron Cox Jun 10 2006, 02:21 PM

3 PSI

Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 10 2006, 08:51 PM

scott, didn't you look at my triad linkage? spend a bit more money, and your linkage kit will also include a throttle cable holder(not incl/w cb). cb pump. andy's jumper trick, you'll need to rig up a little harness. mallory centrifical dist and blaster coil. aurora 8.5mm plug wires, i got mine at aircooled.net. the plug end bootseals are correct for our engines. you might need to call as they weren't listed on the site. you'll have to figure out some sort of case venting system. i have the pukey breather box that is supposed to drain back to the head vents. i hate it. your engine gets covered in dust and grime from the oil vapor due to the design. heat or headers?

k

Posted by: McMark Jun 10 2006, 11:21 PM

Don't buy a linkage. I'll take a picture tomorrow.

Posted by: So.Cal.914 Jun 11 2006, 12:01 AM

I would sudjest K&N's air cleaners, your rings will thank you.

Posted by: scottb Jun 11 2006, 06:19 AM

thanks for linkage suggestions guys.... i did however buy the linkage that mark recommended which he ordered for me. what it is i can recall though....

mark also ordered the mallory dizzy for me and i sent him my crane ignition to put in.

will score a new coil and some wires....

fuel pump has been ordered....

now what next........

Posted by: lotus_65 Jun 11 2006, 06:49 AM

patience

Posted by: DNHunt Jun 11 2006, 06:51 AM

Hey Scott

How you doing?

I think we saw your engine when we were at Mark's in Napa a couple of weeks ago. It should be nice.

Dave

Posted by: scottb Jun 11 2006, 08:49 AM

hey dave.... read your cali fun-run thread. sounds like a blast. now if i could just get a job in seattle..... hmmmmmm

=====

should i get new motor and or trany mounts since i have things apart? i have solid tranny mounts and i don't imagine they go bad but.....

cheers....

Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 11 2006, 08:53 AM

get new fronts scott. no better/easier time to do it. the bird sells the new outers for around $14? a pop. if yours are all bent up, scrap em'. the new ones are all fancy anodized.

k

Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 11 2006, 01:18 PM

also, i mounted my cb pump on the outside of the rear firewall. direct access to the stock fp harness, leading to the relay board, making the "andyjumper" install a breeze. no need to pull wires and having to run the pump off of a keyed fuse on the fuse panel. be careful, powering off the panel can result in popping fuses. usually at the worst possible time. when i bought my cb, the instructions warned against installing the pump in trunks.

k

Posted by: scottb Jun 12 2006, 04:06 PM

and another question.... what can i take away?

imagine i can lose a some electronics.....

got a list?

cheers........

Posted by: lapuwali Jun 12 2006, 04:28 PM

You'll be removing the stock ECU and the entire engine wiring harness, which you can replace with one wire from the relay board to the coil (black wire, 18g is good enough).

What you'll need while driving the car with this engine is a shorter flat-blade screwdriver, and some practice on removing the idle jets with everything in the car. You'll do this fairly regularly to clean junk out of those jets. If you drain and carefully clean your gas tank and fit a new fuel filter along with that new pump, you'll reduce the need for this somewhat. I did all of this, and still had to clean out one idle jet this weekend on a long drive.

Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 13 2006, 08:02 AM

after a bit of pratice you'll be able to pull the idles in about 2 minutes each. remove the fi wiring completely. alt loom stays put. even if a jet fouls, you'll be able to limp home if you don't want to do a road side fix. i'm going to look into one of those small micron, cleanable fiters. if your tank is clean and you're still plugging jets, there is debris in the carb bowls. a little can of compressed air (the kind you blow off the computer keyboard with) is nice to have in the tool box. beats the hell out of sticking a gassy jet in your mouth to blow the crap out. before you install the carbs, if they aren't new, check the idle/air mix screw needles for groves worn into them and inspect the little o-rings that seal the i/a mixture screws and the idle jet holders. these 2 issues can have you chasing tunning problems.

k