Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: newto914s Jun 12 2006, 05:43 PM

I just changed the Adjuster screw two weeks ago, and I feel it's a little more click-ity clack now. Not sure if I should have used a different value than .006 & .008 since I have SI SS valves?
Also I'd like to try setting them hot, to avoid any miss-measurements this time. Does anyone have a method for doing this in a 914.
Thanks guys
Samson

Posted by: fitsbain Jun 12 2006, 06:01 PM

I believe that the proper measurments are done cold, and are .06 and .08 for intake and exhaust respectivly(1.8 -2.0) and that a 1.7 is .06 and .06.

But someone feel free to correct me as I'm the new guy.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jun 12 2006, 06:07 PM

The 2.0 is the only one with the 0.008" measurement. All valves on the 1.7s and 1.8s should be 0.006".

I don't know if the SS valves change the equation or not, though.

--DD

Posted by: URY914 Jun 12 2006, 06:08 PM

Set them when cold and there is no difference because they are Stainless Steel.

Posted by: newto914s Jun 12 2006, 06:08 PM

Oops, You right, brain fart. .006 & .008 is what I did the first time
I will do it cold again, if someone thinks I should try a different measurement, but I would like to try it hot to 0 lash if setting it to spec is the consensus around here

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Jun 12 2006, 06:11 PM

Actually, the hot clearances aren't much different than the cold ones. Zero lash is gonna make you a lot of trouble you don't need. The Cap'n

Posted by: newto914s Jun 12 2006, 06:16 PM

The last thing I want to do is burn a valve(been there, done that). I'm sure I read here that's what some guys do. Run the engine to operating temps, then set the lash to 0. But I'm an idiot, what is the lash when hot supposed to be then?

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Jun 12 2006, 07:10 PM

.006", cold. Whatever it is hot, that's what it is. Under certain conditions, you may choose to set them at 0.000, hot, to enhance overlap and therefore power. A certain showroom stock competitor used to do that, but he did it at the track, and opened them back to stock specs BEFORE he drove the car home. He didn't expect the engine to last longer than one season. It's risky, and you might not want to put your wallet in harm's way. Valves are set cold so there's a universal standard that will allow you to go through the procedure without having the temperature change and make a difference in the settings, so that there's a safety factor, and so that the next guy who works on it will be able to use the valve settings as part of the diagnostic procedure. The Cap'n

Posted by: john rogers Jun 12 2006, 07:39 PM

Is this a stock cam or one with stock lift and or overlap? How about the push rods, are they the stock ones? If the answer to all these is yes, then use stock lash or if you don't know, use stock lash. If it is a radical racing cam with tapered wall cro-mo push rod tubes then maybe the valve last is set hot, but the cam maufacturer will tell you that. My 2.8L four was this way, what a pain in the butt to do a valve adjust!!!!

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 12 2006, 08:16 PM

0 lash can be done only with Cr-Mo pushrods and only if you know what the fuch you are doing.

Set them at .006 cold and your safe. I know the book says .006 and .008 but I've never had an issue at .006 for both. I often set them at .004 and .006

But clickity- clack is better than boom!

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jun 13 2006, 12:44 PM

If the book says that for a 1.8, then the book is wrong. Check the factory documentation, and you'll see that the 1.8 is spec'ed for 0.006" for both intake and exhaust.

--DD

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 13 2006, 12:57 PM

Yep I ment that on the 2.0