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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ H4 upgrade
Posted by: brownaar Oct 19 2006, 02:00 PM
I've already got H4's, but in the process of evaluating a dim headlight I notice I may not have the suggested components. Section 3.2-2/3 of the Electrical manual says something about replacing the black dust boot on the back of the bulb with a red one, and using only a polyamide-colored 3-pole connector instead of the standard translucent bulb connector.
Are these parts(red boot, polyamide connector) truly necessary, does anyone know the part numbers, and what's a good source for these?
Posted by: James Adams Oct 19 2006, 02:04 PM
Only necessary for higher wattage bulbs - what are you using?
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Oct 19 2006, 02:21 PM
I've already got H4's, but in the process of evaluating a dim headlight I notice I may not have the suggested components. Section 3.2-2/3 of the Electrical manual says something about replacing the black dust boot on the back of the bulb with a red one, and using only a polyamide-colored 3-pole connector instead of the standard translucent bulb connector.
Are these parts(red boot, polyamide connector) truly necessary, does anyone know the part numbers, and what's a good source for these?
Bad ground. Fix it. The Cap'n
Posted by: BMXerror Oct 19 2006, 03:03 PM
I'm running H4 90/130s on my '70 with an otherwise bone stock electrical system (well, I do have a blade fusebox, but that doesn't really matter). I haven't had any problems. I'd have to agree with the Cap'n on THIS one.
Mark D.
Posted by: brownaar Oct 19 2006, 04:20 PM
I've sorted through the dim headlight issue. The problem actually followed the light, so a new bulb fixed that, but that's another thread. I have 100/80 H4 bulbs currently, so am wondering about the factory recs about the dust boot and electrical connector. Also, anyone know the difference between an H4 and a 9003 bulb? Will a 9003 bulb give the proper light pattern in an H4 housing?
Posted by: James Adams Oct 19 2006, 04:40 PM
I've sorted through the dim headlight issue. The problem actually followed the light, so a new bulb fixed that, but that's another thread. I have 100/80 H4 bulbs currently, so am wondering about the factory recs about the dust boot and electrical connector. Also, anyone know the difference between an H4 and a 9003 bulb? Will a 9003 bulb give the proper light pattern in an H4 housing?
9003 is just a different designation system for the H4 bulb.
You may have issues over of a period of time with the 100 watt bulbs and the plastic connector depending upon how much you use your lights. Check it periodically for discoloration and replace with the nylon type if needed.
Posted by: Aaron Cox Oct 19 2006, 05:34 PM
hmmm
i was told anything over 60w bulbs required relays.....
you ran 80/100 bulbs on stock wiring?
Posted by: rdauenhauer Oct 19 2006, 06:35 PM
isnt the design such that unless you wire in relays with higher wattage bulbs that all that current is flowing through the switch which WILL fail prematurely ( 
after 30 years)
Posted by: James Adams Oct 19 2006, 06:43 PM
hmmm
i was told anything over 60w bulbs required relays.....
you ran 80/100 bulbs on stock wiring?
I agree. Actually, I like to add relays even for stock wattage bulbs.
Posted by: Aaron Cox Oct 19 2006, 06:47 PM
james,
why dont you share the procedure for wiring in relays so everyone else will know too 
Posted by: brownaar Oct 19 2006, 06:50 PM
So Rich, you're saying the current draw required by the higher wattage bulbs will fry the switch over time? I'm not sure if my 100/80 bulbs were through the stock wiring or if a PO had wired them through relays. I haven't dug that deep into it.
Posted by: James Adams Oct 19 2006, 07:02 PM
james,
why dont you share the procedure for wiring in relays so everyone else will know too
That might be a good task for me next week - I think a new thread would be appropriate.
Posted by: SGB Oct 19 2006, 07:26 PM
In addition to causing grater oxidation in the switch, there is a loss of power as well. I ran higher wattage bulbs with my stock system but began to worry after a while so I installed relays as well and it does ~seem~ brighter. I remember reading in threads here and Pelican that there is a definite point at which the capacity of the switch to carry the load is really a limiting factor. I'm guessing it makes a lot of heat after that...
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