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Posted by: Air_Cooled_Nut Nov 18 2003, 10:35 PM

What tool do you metal pounders recommend for cutting circles? I welded up the side marker mounting holes and am read to weld in a disc in the large center hole -- don't want to pack that sucker with filler, ya know

BTW, I have very shallow pockets so let's keep costs down

Posted by: GWN7 Nov 18 2003, 11:32 PM

A holesaw without the center drill bit? If you can get one the right size, their cheep.

Posted by: SirAndy Nov 18 2003, 11:48 PM

what he said ^^^

Posted by: J P Stein Nov 19 2003, 03:00 AM

Humm, without a pilot drill, you need to do it in a drill press.
Clamp it down (the sheet metal) on a block of wood VERY well or it will eat you alive.

Or:
Scribe the diameter out with a compass and cut with L or RH sheet metal shears. File or grind to clean up.
Easy.

Posted by: GWN7 Nov 19 2003, 03:10 AM

What he said....


or if you don't have a drill press put a block of wood under the metal and stand on it. Drill slow. Your shoes can as a guide for the bit. Wear old shoes.

If you can't get a hole saw the right size, get one slightly bigger and grind the edge till it fits.

Posted by: J P Stein Nov 19 2003, 03:14 AM

I wanna see the video of that operation

edit:
I hunkered down in my engine compartment with a 1/2 drill motor and a 4 inch hole saw.....cut-out for the oil tank...
That thing beat the living dogshit outta me....I think there are some permenent discolorations on my soft pink body from that deal.

Posted by: Korijo Nov 19 2003, 03:20 AM

If you drill a hole in a block of wood first (w/ hole saw AND pilot bit), you can clamp the block to the sheet metal, and drill using the hole saw w/out the pilot bit (or a drill press ).

Posted by: James Adams Nov 19 2003, 07:15 AM

If money is an issue, trade fancy tools for good old fashioned labor.

Just mark a circle with a compass (or a quater and the tip of a knife or whatever) and cut to the line with tinsnips. File to fit.

Otherwise, use a fender washer - remove all plating - weld the center hole - and file the outside to fit the fender hole.

Posted by: John Jentz Nov 19 2003, 08:06 AM

with Korijo

Posted by: vsg914 Nov 19 2003, 08:23 AM

Use two blocks of wood. Predrill a hole in one with the pilot bit, remove the pilot bit, sandwich the metal between the two blocks, clamp very tightly, and use the predrilled hole for a guide for the hole saw. Spend the money and get a good "BiMetal" bit. It'll last 100 times longer than the $3.00 ones.

Posted by: jnp914 Nov 19 2003, 08:52 AM

If you do the block of wood/old shoe method, make sure the block of wood is wide enough for your whole foot. I tried it on a 2x4. I lost my balance and fell backwards, obviously faster than I could get the bit out or stop the two handled 1/2 torquemaster beast drill, the metal piece slips out from under my shoe, gets flung off the drill across the garage, bounces off the car hood (not a 914) and imbeds itself into the far (finished) wall.

The wife hears the commotion, comes out and wants to know what the hell is going on and does everything I do lately have to include personal or property damage.

"Maybe."

Posted by: John Kelly Nov 19 2003, 09:04 AM

Buy a set of green handled aviation snips... the offset kind. Cut to within a 1/8" of your line first, then do the fine trimming ...which is easier with less material to cut away, file to fit. The offset snips are great. I like the Wiss brand. You can twist them around a very small radius without leaving little daggers if you practice a bit.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

Posted by: mr914 Nov 19 2003, 10:19 AM

I used blue masking tape from the front side.

I then cut the template out with an exacto knife.

I then put the tape template on the sheetmetal.

In my case, I called a friend with a plasma cutter.

Otherwise, cut close with aviation snips and grind to fit.

Good luck.

Posted by: Air_Cooled_Nut Nov 19 2003, 11:30 AM

Thanks for the tips! The hole saw should've come to me cuz I have 3 different sizes staring at me on my peg board A pilot hole is no biggie because they are quite small AND I can weld that little hole closed quite easily

Jerry, tell the misses, "Yes, however cars prefer blood when they can get it."

Posted by: tmp914 Nov 19 2003, 10:44 PM

I used tin snips a file and a little time

Posted by: ppickerell Dec 1 2003, 09:44 PM

I just found this thread during a search for korijo story. Send me a drawing and I will laser cut for free for clubmember, you pay for shipping. Am I too late or have you commited a metal mistake?

Posted by: Dave Bell Dec 1 2003, 10:39 PM

For saving time, use what ever you have handy to trace out and cut out a slightly over size disk and trim to fit on a grinder. You could have it on and tack welded in place in 1/4 the time it takes you to go find or buy the "right" tool and experiment. No matter how perfect the fit you make, your going to be grinding/filing down the extra metal from you welds.

Posted by: GWN7 Dec 1 2003, 10:42 PM

Hi Dave. Still have that engine in the crate.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Dec 1 2003, 11:01 PM

I smell a classic thread . what do you do with the side marker pimple's wiring harness?

Posted by: Korijo Dec 2 2003, 01:19 AM

Use it for CAMP 914 euro turn conversion kit



I could use a set. I'll PM you for details.

Posted by: Air_Cooled_Nut Dec 2 2003, 12:09 PM

I used Korijo's method. Worked fine The side marker holes are 1.5" in diameter so I bought a 1 5/8" hole saw. The resultant disc fits in the side marker hole with roughly 1/16" gap about the circumference. Remember, a hole saw is measured by the size of hole it creates, the outside diameter of the saw, but we want a disc so it's the inside diameter of the hole saw we want