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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Dr 914's pictures of the steel 916 replica roof in the making
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 10 2007, 08:39 AM
Posted by: rick 918-S Jan 10 2007, 09:07 AM
Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 10 2007, 09:17 AM
Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
And some say that the Irish saved the world!
Posted by: Mueller Jan 10 2007, 10:48 AM
dare I ask if a "kit" for such an animal is in the works???
a side question, what is the most miles put on a 916?
has enough time and miles put on one to see what stresses the welded roof transmit to the cowl or other parts of the chassis??
I like it !!!!!
Posted by: Lou W Jan 10 2007, 11:00 AM
Thank you for sharing this with us. 
Posted by: Lawrence Jan 10 2007, 11:00 AM
Very nice... looks like good work!
Posted by: Aaron Cox Jan 10 2007, 11:05 AM
making 916 clones? thats pretty neat. nice fab work...
whats the story on it tho? just wanted a hard top? neat stuff...
Posted by: DEC Jan 10 2007, 11:12 AM
cool work
I like this place
Posted by: faux916 Jan 10 2007, 11:16 AM
"Fitsbain" and myself where just talking about if this has been done. I too am interested if there is a "kit" in the making? Thanks for posting. Bob
Posted by: horizontally-opposed Jan 10 2007, 11:22 AM
BEAUTIFUL WORK!!!
Has anyone ever made a X brace (or something like it) that could be rigidly mounted at four points (like in the factory GTs) and then bolted into place, with the stock top attaching to the brace setup. It would eliminate the ease of going from closed to open in minutes, but I sure bet it would improve structural rigidity.
Seems like it could be a GREAT product...
pete
Posted by: Aaron Cox Jan 10 2007, 11:27 AM
BEAUTIFUL WORK!!!
Has anyone ever made a X brace (or something like it) that could be rigidly mounted at four points (like in the factory GTs) and then bolted into place, with the stock top attaching to the brace setup. It would eliminate the ease of going from closed to open in minutes, but I sure bet it would improve structural rigidity.
Seems like it could be a GREAT product...
pete
my head was already into the roof before going to a layback scheel seat.....
i know of what you are talking about (good picture in the johnson restore book)... but youreally think that would help a whole lot?
did the GT's have a real tarage top? or was it just a 'skin' ?
Posted by: Misha Jan 10 2007, 12:30 PM
i know of what you are talking about ...
let's try to upload my first picture!
Posted by: Justin Fischer Jan 10 2007, 12:45 PM
Great pics, thanks for sharing, I always wondered how difficult this would be.
Posted by: ChrisNPDrider Jan 10 2007, 12:52 PM
Sweet. This is the best solution I have seen for replacing the NLA windshield/targa seal! 
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 10 2007, 12:55 PM
making 916 clones? thats pretty neat. nice fab work...
whats the story on it tho? just wanted a hard top? neat stuff...
Our man Geoff Pollard in england wanted a replica after he saw the real one and the disaster 916 in England that the guy would not sell, so he purchased a 914 shell from us and went for it! Congrats Geoff in a great conversion.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 10 2007, 12:57 PM
dare I ask if a "kit" for such an animal is in the works???
a side question, what is the most miles put on a 916?
has enough time and miles put on one to see what stresses the welded roof transmit to the cowl or other parts of the chassis??
I like it !!!!!
The crazy irishmen who did this one could be persuaded to do another I am sure. I already have a hardtop 914 so I am not a buyer though!!!!!
Posted by: jd74914 Jan 10 2007, 01:49 PM
BEAUTIFUL WORK!!!
Has anyone ever made a X brace (or something like it) that could be rigidly mounted at four points (like in the factory GTs) and then bolted into place, with the stock top attaching to the brace setup. It would eliminate the ease of going from closed to open in minutes, but I sure bet it would improve structural rigidity.
Seems like it could be a GREAT product...
pete
Wouldn't it just put more stress on the windshield frame and flex it enough to crack the glass?
The GT's had roll cages so the cars were already still enough to not flex so much in just this area. I think that an X brace would only serve to kill this windshield and frame and not offer much stiffening for the rest of the car . . . this just makes the windshield a load bearing member.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 10 2007, 01:54 PM
BEAUTIFUL WORK!!!
Has anyone ever made a X brace (or something like it) that could be rigidly mounted at four points (like in the factory GTs) and then bolted into place, with the stock top attaching to the brace setup. It would eliminate the ease of going from closed to open in minutes, but I sure bet it would improve structural rigidity.
Seems like it could be a GREAT product...
pete
Wouldn't it just put more stress on the windshield frame and flex it enough to crack the glass?
The GT's had roll cages so the cars were already still enough to not flex so much in just this area. I think that an X brace would only serve to kill this windshield and frame and not offer much stiffening for the rest of the car . . . this just makes the windshield a load bearing member.
good point, but the factory did it and did not isolate the windshield with a rubber gasket just butyl tape like the regular car, and with the roof welded in the car just becomes like any other coupe, the windshild pillers and the rollbar now sharing the load and the twist and the windshield flexing a bit on the butyl tape.
Posted by: Travis Neff Jan 10 2007, 01:56 PM
No, it will flex less rather than more with the steel roof affixed.
Posted by: Dave_Darling Jan 10 2007, 03:19 PM
The GT's had roll cages ...
Actually, I believe that many of the GTs did not have roll cages, at least not early in their competition life.
--DD
Posted by: faux916 Jan 10 2007, 05:28 PM
Anyways..The guy should sell a "how to" with cardboard patterns for this. I would be interested. 
Posted by: jd74914 Jan 10 2007, 06:36 PM
No, it will flex less rather than more with the steel roof affixed.
My thought pattern had nothing to do with the steel roof being a problem. I was thinking that with an x bar connecting the windshield frame and roll bar there would be a very uneven distribution of load and hence a problem.
Not that that makes any sense since the middle of the windshield wouldn't have any more force on it anyways.Thanks Dave . . . I did not know that.
Posted by: Johny Blackstain Jan 10 2007, 06:49 PM
George- you know you're killing me! That's just beutiful work. I've yet to hear anything on the subject. Anxiously awaiting. Amazing what topics you miss out on here when you go out driving!
Posted by: highways Jan 10 2007, 06:55 PM
X-Brace and a steel roof will add lot's of strength. Much less flexing in the car overall. And I would say that both an x-brace and steel roof would provide comparably the same improvements (as long as the x-brace is mounted well). I would even venture to say that reinforcing the roof in one of these two ways would be a larger stiffness improvement over a common chassis stiffening kit.
If you want to better understand the principle of distributing the sheer load around the entire box structure- get a shoe box. Now with the top firmly on the shoe box give it a twist. Now with the top off the box- give it another twist. See the difference?
Posted by: Johny Blackstain Jan 10 2007, 06:59 PM
X-Brace and a steel roof will add lot's of strength. Much less flexing in the car overall. And I would say that both an x-brace and steel roof would provide comparably the same improvements (as long as the x-brace is mounted well). I would even venture to say that reinforcing the roof in one of these two ways would be a larger stiffness improvement over a common chassis stiffening kit.
If you want to better understand the principle of distributing the sheer load around the entire box structure- get a shoe box. Now with the top firmly on the shoe box give it a twist. Now with the top off the box- give it another twist. See the difference?
Exactly!
Posted by: McMark Jan 10 2007, 07:03 PM
Nice analogy! 
I've been pondering making a 916 replica with my aubergine car... 
Posted by: scotty b Jan 10 2007, 07:12 PM
Anyways..The guy should sell a "how to" with cardboard patterns for this. I would be interested.
Really isn't that hard to do and your glass roof gives you ALL the tech you need. Proper curve, dimensions etc. No special tools other than a welder, sheetmetal brake would be neccesary.
A couple of piecxes of channel,c-clamps and a hammer can make a decent brake in a pinch
Posted by: GeorgeRud Jan 10 2007, 07:19 PM
Beautiful work. I assume the top sheetmetal has to be formed on an English wheel to get both curvatures right. It can be amazing how something that looks so straightforward can really be quite difficult.
You have to really appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into something like this. Leave it to the Irish!
Posted by: Eric_Shea Jan 10 2007, 07:22 PM
I'd like to build a brace like that Misha girl posted 
Posted by: scotty b Jan 10 2007, 07:29 PM
Beautiful work. I assume the top sheetmetal has to be formed on an English wheel to get both curvatures right. It can be amazing how something that looks so straightforward can really be quite difficult.
You have to really appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into something like this. Leave it to the Irish!
Little if any curveature front to back. If there is indeed some then yes a wheel is the best option. It's amazing to me that something that looks so difficult is actually so straightforward ! EDIT after looking at the pics again there is DEFINITELY front to back curve. Wheel that and lightly shrink the 2 front corners to make them pull downward
Posted by: faux916 Jan 10 2007, 08:17 PM
X-Brace and a steel roof will add lot's of strength. Much less flexing in the car overall. And I would say that both an x-brace and steel roof would provide comparably the same improvements (as long as the x-brace is mounted well). I would even venture to say that reinforcing the roof in one of these two ways would be a larger stiffness improvement over a common chassis stiffening kit.
If you want to better understand the principle of distributing the sheer load around the entire box structure- get a shoe box. Now with the top firmly on the shoe box give it a twist. Now with the top off the box- give it another twist. See the difference?
With or with out shoes in it?
Posted by: highways Jan 10 2007, 09:29 PM
Without shoes! 
Better weight savings
Actually just talked to proto31 about it- told me stuff I didn't know. 914 GT's had a fiberglass top with a metal X brace in it...? It slips into the front targa seal like normal but then there was a little arrangment where it gets pinned into the frame? I'd like to see pics if anyone has them.... sounds sweet!
Posted by: SGB Jan 10 2007, 09:47 PM
So when are you doing the 918 replica?
Posted by: Aaron Cox Jan 11 2007, 01:24 AM
again... very nice fab work...
but isnt it a compund curve? not just a side to side... but there is a slight curve front to back....
english wheel?
Posted by: John Kelly Jan 11 2007, 08:14 AM
That is nice work! An english wheel would be good choice, but it would probably take two people to keep conrol of the panel. One of them would have to be pretty skilled. Getting the shape in the right area would be tricky for a beginner. Any panel that is shaped free form without being restrained will want to curve in directions that are unintended by the operator. Some of the TV shows make it seem like an english wheel is the magic tool for something like this. It is, but it won't do the work by itself. There is a pretty steep learning curve. It can be very frustrating. You have to stretch the areas that need the most shape, and then do lighter stretching nearby to blend the shape into the rest of the panel, all the while controlling the contours in all directions. So, you stretch, and smooth. The metal goes catywhampus on you (because it can) then you have to roll the panel back into the desired contours, check where you still need stretching and start all over again.
Another method would be make the frame, roll the metal to fit side to side, weld, then add shape with a palm nailer. More intuitive for a beginner, because you stretch where it is low until you have the right contours, and the frame keeps the perimeter in line for you. The frame would have to be very stiff to keep from getting distorted by the stretching work.
A mixture of the two methods above would be interesting as well. You would add shape until the panel was getting out of your control, then weld it to the frame and start stretching with the palm nailer.
The hemmed edge? on the rear would not be easy for a beginner either. Nice work!
I think large panels with fairly low crowned shape like that are sometimes harder to do than ones with lots of compound curve in them.
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Posted by: PinetreePorsche Jan 11 2007, 08:45 AM
Geo: I recall an article somewhere about you locating an original, clearly hand-prototyped 916--but I don't recall where. Probably there are some others on this site who also don't know the story. Could you give us the name, date, etc of that article, and maybe a short paragraph that capsulizes the story--particularly why the solid roof was missing when you got yours? (Was it originally solid on these cars for structural/tortional rigidity, or what?)
Posted by: sechszylinder Jan 11 2007, 10:10 AM
Another method would be make the frame, roll the metal to fit side to side, weld, then add shape with a palm nailer. More intuitive for a beginner, because you stretch where it is low until you have the right contours, and the frame keeps the perimeter in line for you. The frame would have to be very stiff to keep from getting distorted by the stretching work.
A mixture of the two methods above would be interesting as well. You would add shape until the panel was getting out of your control, then weld it to the frame and start stretching with the palm nailer.
The hemmed edge? on the rear would not be easy for a beginner either. Nice work!
I think large panels with fairly low crowned shape like that are sometimes harder to do than ones with lots of compound curve in them.
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Hello John,
I'd like to mention a third method. Wouldn't it be good idea to take the rear trunk lid for the curved regions of the roof ? It should have nearly the same shape as the roof.
If this would work, one could alternatively check the junkyards for properly shaped roofs of donorcars.
Benno
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 11 2007, 10:15 AM
So when are you doing the 918 replica?
Who has the engine?
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 11 2007, 10:17 AM
Geo: I recall an article somewhere about you locating an original, clearly hand-prototyped 916--but I don't recall where. Probably there are some others on this site who also don't know the story. Could you give us the name, date, etc of that article, and maybe a short paragraph that capsulizes the story--particularly why the solid roof was missing when you got yours? (Was it originally solid on these cars for structural/tortional rigidity, or what?)
There have been many articles over the years about our Brumos Peter Greg 916 but the excellence article of June 1994 is probably the one of which you are thinking.
Yes the roof was added for rigidity.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 11 2007, 10:18 AM
Another method would be make the frame, roll the metal to fit side to side, weld, then add shape with a palm nailer. More intuitive for a beginner, because you stretch where it is low until you have the right contours, and the frame keeps the perimeter in line for you. The frame would have to be very stiff to keep from getting distorted by the stretching work.
A mixture of the two methods above would be interesting as well. You would add shape until the panel was getting out of your control, then weld it to the frame and start stretching with the palm nailer.
The hemmed edge? on the rear would not be easy for a beginner either. Nice work!
I think large panels with fairly low crowned shape like that are sometimes harder to do than ones with lots of compound curve in them.
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Hello John,
I'd like to mention a third method. Wouldn't it be good idea to take the rear trunk lid for the curved regions of the roof ? It should have nearly the same shape as the roof.
If this would work, one could alternatively check the junkyards for properly shaped roofs of donorcars.
Benno
Geoff and the Irishmen actually sacrificed a 914 fiberglass roof to make the steel one.
Posted by: dbu356 Jan 11 2007, 03:58 PM
dare I ask if a "kit" for such an animal is in the works???
Excellent work.
I too would be interested if such a "kit" were made.
I have some pictures of a factory X-brace a friend of mine has, I shall try to attach them.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 11 2007, 04:48 PM
dare I ask if a "kit" for such an animal is in the works???
Excellent work.
I too would be interested if such a "kit" were made.
I have some pictures of a factory X-brace a friend of mine has, I shall try to attach them.
great idea and easily made!
Posted by: Eric_Shea Jan 11 2007, 05:19 PM
I'll take one. That's a "factory" brace or is it a replica? I thought all the factory braces were bonded to the roof?
Posted by: JPB Jan 11 2007, 05:39 PM
Me likes the 916 repro job. Me thinks one with a 2.7 and nice flares. OOOooooh this is evil stuff. 
For those who dare to be cool, the roof does bow two ways but, I'm certain that a piece of guage metal bent as it is to the sides and forced to bend to the frame is not a big deal. The front to back hump is less than 1/2" and the metal will give easily with some clamps. The front corners will show the mosty stress but that can be cut and puttied as shown in the pic. The door edges can be first attached with the given hump and the roof then be cut to fit the shape. It is mostly an illusion which can be easily made if the builder has a little artistic insite and experience. This roof can be made with a flat light guage sheet if metal and the most basic of tools without a hitch or a kit.
Posted by: scotty b Jan 11 2007, 06:17 PM
Actually John if you try and clamp the Fr. and Rr. and the 2 sides to weld them you will actually buckle your panel from the corners. Metal can't be "forced" into shaped it needs to be massaged, thus tools like the english wheel,plannishing hammer and heat. As I said befroe it isn't a really complicated job but it isn't
THAT simple either. Also as Mr. Kelly stated the english wheel is NOT an easy tool to learn, so the inexperienced would be better off with a "simpler" method . I imagine there are aLOT of wheels sitting around unused because those wonderful T.V. shows sucked people into believing it is a simple to use, do-all miracle machine. There is a reason it hasn't been used much for the last 60+ years Hell I built one and can use it and rarely do 
Posted by: dbu356 Jan 11 2007, 07:31 PM
I'll take one. That's a "factory" brace or is it a replica? I thought all the factory braces were bonded to the roof?
Story goes that it is factory, requires removal of latches and bolts in, top then bolts to the brace. Car (not the one in the picture) was built by Porsche for one of their poster artists who sold it to its current owner (another former factory employee).
Posted by: John Kelly Jan 12 2007, 05:33 AM
Benno wrote: "Hello John,
I'd like to mention a third method. Wouldn't it be good idea to take the rear trunk lid for the curved regions of the roof ? It should have nearly the same shape as the roof.
If this would work, one could alternatively check the junkyards for properly shaped roofs of donorcars.
Benno"
Hi Benno,
That might make a good start, but it is rare that a similar looking shape is actually contoured nearly as close as it first appears. Once clamped it may be low by an inch or more in some places.
JPB wrote:
"For those who dare to be cool, the roof does bow two ways but, I'm certain that a piece of guage metal bent as it is to the sides and forced to bend to the frame is not a big deal. The front to back hump is less than 1/2" and the metal will give easily with some clamps. The front corners will show the mosty stress but that can be cut and puttied as shown in the pic. The door edges can be first attached with the given hump and the roof then be cut to fit the shape. It is mostly an illusion which can be easily made if the builder has a little artistic insite and experience. This roof can be made with a flat light guage sheet if metal and the most basic of tools without a hitch or a kit."
Hi JPB,
Rolling it in one direction is the easy part of course, but getting true shape in it without classic stretching or shrinking would require a press die that developed tons of pressure.
Cutting and welding the corners is not the best way to make shape in them. Tuck shrinking will generate shape inboard in a controllable manner with tools as simple as a claw hammer...no welding. You gather up the edge metal in a little tent like shape and then hammer down over the top of the tent (tuck). The metal gets thicker on the edge. It is a metal shaping job, not a clamp and putty job...don't want to get top heavy Here is an album showing tuck shrinking if you are interested:
http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbums.cgi?action=openalbum&albumid=9980191607382
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Posted by: rick 918-S Jan 12 2007, 10:27 AM
I made a simple pinch tool from a couple of punches. I have a large set and a small set. I can't rember where I saw this. I've had these about 25 years. You can make some very nice shrinks with these. I'm with John. A claw hammer will do a great job also. Scotty b is correct about the wheeling machine. They take some serious time investment to learn.
The photo here shows how far you can stretch metal with very basic tools. I used a piece of plywood with a cutout for the shape of the recess, them drove the recess into the plywood shape. I made the lines crisp with a masons chisel.
BTW: sorry for the hijack.. just thought you'd find this interesting
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Posted by: rick 918-S Jan 12 2007, 10:28 AM
askdfh
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Posted by: rick 918-S Jan 12 2007, 10:29 AM
alsmdf
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Posted by: John Kelly Jan 12 2007, 10:50 AM
Looks good Rick! Kerry Pinkerton clamps his tuck forks in a vice and twists the metal to make tucks. My favorite method is a foot operated one I made from another tool.
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Posted by: scotty b Jan 12 2007, 07:42 PM
Looks good Rick! Kerry Pinkerton clamps his tuck forks in a vice and twists the metal to make tucks. My favorite method is a foot operated one I made from another tool.
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
John a foot operated tucker?? Or shrinker? If it's a tucker could you PLEASE show some pics. Here's one of my shrinker I converted to pneumatic. Increases the capacity by a bit but it is kinda scary if you put full pressure to it
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Posted by: grantsfo Jan 12 2007, 07:52 PM
Very nice! Thanks for the photos. 
Posted by: John Kelly Jan 13 2007, 07:07 AM
Hi Scotty,
There is a picture of my foot operated tucker and a few others in my tuck shrinking album. It was made from an old grommet squeezer (?) that I picked up at Boeing surplus. You can make dozens of tucks with very little effort:
http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbums.cgi?action=openalbum&albumid=9980191607382
By the way, Kent White: www.tinmantech.com makes stippled dies for the edge shrinker you have. Makes a major improvement in the surface finish.
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Posted by: Eric_Shea Jan 13 2007, 10:06 AM
Dave... any chance to get copies made up of the x-brace?
Posted by: dbu356 Jan 13 2007, 10:44 AM
Dave... any chance to get copies made up of the x-brace?
The X-brace is in SFBay area. I don't know if the guy that has it will let it out of his sight (it belongs to one of his customers, but he's had it in the shop for years). I know that when I was living there he would have let me copy it but, like I said, I have no talent for that sort of thing. I'll contact him and see what the status is now.
Dave
Posted by: Eric_Shea Jan 13 2007, 12:03 PM
Calling McWelder-Boy
Posted by: McMark Jan 13 2007, 03:58 PM
Posted by: Eric_Shea Jan 13 2007, 05:10 PM
Get your mits on that thing and make me one
Posted by: JPB Jan 13 2007, 06:08 PM
I have to agree with all of you but one thing makes no sence and just does in the end and thats steel and I get along very well. It is still a mystery to me but hope to do this 916 thing in the near future and make something steel with mothing tools. A good reproduction 916 would be the BOMB! Crap I hate reading this stuff. You people keep ...............................................................stimulating me damit! 
Posted by: Gustl Jan 14 2007, 01:50 AM
I'll take one. That's a "factory" brace or is it a replica? I thought all the factory braces were bonded to the roof?
Story goes that it is factory, requires removal of latches and bolts in, top then bolts to the brace. Car (not the one in the picture) was built by Porsche for one of their poster artists who sold it to its current owner (another former factory employee).
are you talking about '71 car #233 ???
Porsche internal used car => Erich Strenger => Gerhard B.
Gustl
Posted by: dbu356 Jan 14 2007, 10:17 AM
I'll take one. That's a "factory" brace or is it a replica? I thought all the factory braces were bonded to the roof?
Story goes that it is factory, requires removal of latches and bolts in, top then bolts to the brace. Car (not the one in the picture) was built by Porsche for one of their poster artists who sold it to its current owner (another former factory employee).
are you talking about '71 car #233 ???
Porsche internal used car => Erich Strenger => Gerhard B.
GustlI don't know the year or numbers on the car. Orange with orange centered Fuchs. Gerhard Bandstsruph (sp) still has the car. What other info do you have on it? How bad are we hijacking this thread?
Dave
Posted by: Eric_Shea Jan 14 2007, 10:30 AM
It's a progression not a hijack...
Mark, is my brace done yet? What's take'n ya? I got $10 bucks burning a hole in my pocket over here (shipping included).
Posted by: Gustl Jan 15 2007, 03:48 AM
I don't know the year or numbers on the car. Orange with orange centered Fuchs. Gerhard Bandstsruph (sp) still has the car. What other info do you have on it? How bad are we hijacking this thread?
Dave
the name is not really correct, but very similar ...
it's a factory built M471 car
first it was used for internal purpose (for example: this was the camera car for a 914 2.0 commercial that was made on the Nürburgring)
originally the car was bahia red with positive Porsche letters+stripes and 2 black stripes along the front hood (and possibly the rear hood, too?) - with chrome bumpers and black vinyl targa bar/roof
I'm not sure about when exactly Erich Strenger has got the car
He was a well known designer for Porsche's printed material
he completely changed the exterior view of the car to orange
somewhen in the mid-80s he sold the car to Gerhard B. who still owns it
Gustl
Posted by: Gustl Jan 15 2007, 03:50 AM
It's a progression not a hijack...
thanks Eric - I took your comment as legitimation to go on
Gustl
Posted by: Brother Jan 21 2007, 11:40 AM
That roof is awesome. I want to make the same thing.
Can you show/tell us about how you prepped the car and made the actual roof.
Please update this thread with finished pictures.
Posted by: hedfurst Mar 28 2007, 08:14 AM
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Posted by: 914forme Mar 30 2007, 08:20 AM
Eric I am getting ready to build one this weekend next 4 days, I need to Car is stiffer but this is the last piece of the puzzle for me. Put it in a different thread.
the 916 roof is sweet, dude paid $$$$$$ for that conversion.
Posted by: KaptKaos Apr 4 2007, 12:08 AM
Any updates Doc?
Posted by: 914forme Apr 4 2007, 05:53 PM
Guys here one to ponder. While building up my bolt down roof, I got to the point I was testing it for fit, a dimple here etc..
The sides are 1" DOM .095 wallFront is square tube, rear is square tube also 3/4" stuff .0625 wall. I built the X brace out of 1" flat with 1/8" IT is a little over 4 feet to go side to side. I drilled a bunch of holes, bent it to fit into the roof, and laid it up. Front has a bunch of clips that rivit the roof down to the bars, bars will bolt to the frame with a braket at each outside corner the storngest points on the structures. So I get it all to fit with the rollbar and start to clamp it down. I have hte car up on stands. etc.... Well I go to seat the front by pushing it forward, and I watch the frame flex, with my arm power. I ain't no little guy, but come on, it moves 1/8" at least. I am not sure it will help at all, in reality. A cage would be a lot better choice here people. Except I have a devil of a time getting in a 914 with a cage.
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Posted by: partwerks Apr 4 2015, 11:03 PM
I would think that the flat iron would just bow, as opposed to something like square tubing, or angle iron?
Posted by: SirAndy Apr 5 2015, 12:04 AM
That post was made 8 years ago ...
Posted by: bulitt Apr 5 2015, 12:26 AM
Rip Van Winkle 
![yellowsleep[1].gif](style_emoticons/default/yellowsleep[1].gif)
Posted by: 914nola Apr 6 2015, 10:38 AM
That post was made 8 years ago ...
Then I guess someone knows if it bowed by now.
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