Printable Version of Topic
Click here to view this topic in its original format
914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Dr.914 quiz, 700 good things to know
Posted by: So.Cal.914 Jan 31 2007, 02:34 PM
Continued from Cooltimes thread (Thanks Mike) How about it Doc?
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 02:51 PM
Continued from Cooltimes thread (Thanks Mike) How about it Doc?
The key is extremely hard to turn in the lock cylinder and locking and unlocking is virtually impossible! I know that is the right key though! What can I do??
Posted by: John Jan 31 2007, 02:59 PM
You could try squirting some penetrating oil into the lock cylinder to loosen up the hardened factory applied grease.
Posted by: Phoenix914 Jan 31 2007, 03:02 PM
The key is extremely hard to turn in the lock cylinder and locking and unlocking is virtually impossible! I know that is the right key though! What can I do??
I don't know the answer, but sure would like to. I have this problem with both doors to an extent.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 03:04 PM
You could try squirting some penetrating oil into the lock cylinder to loosen up the hardened factory applied grease.
nope won't help
Posted by: r_towle Jan 31 2007, 03:04 PM
Continued from Cooltimes thread (Thanks Mike) How about it Doc?
The key is extremely hard to turn in the lock cylinder and locking and unlocking is virtually impossible! I know that is the right key though! What can I do??
Give me the keys for the 916, I will fix the lock.
Its cause you spend way way way to much time looking at those cars, and not enought time driving them...
Really, I can help.
Rich
Posted by: John Jan 31 2007, 03:09 PM
You could try squirting some penetrating oil into the lock cylinder to loosen up the hardened factory applied grease.
nope won't help
which lock?
if it's a door lock, to make the key lock/unlock nicely, it is common to clean and re-lubricate the lock mech inside the door. They get sticky over time.
Note:
This would not apply to trunk locks, glove box locks, front trunk locks, or ignition locks.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 03:13 PM
Continued from Cooltimes thread (Thanks Mike) How about it Doc?
The key is extremely hard to turn in the lock cylinder and locking and unlocking is virtually impossible! I know that is the right key though! What can I do??
Give me the keys for the 916, I will fix the lock.
Its cause you spend way way way to much time looking at those cars, and not enought time driving them...
Really, I can help.
Rich
sort of like my xke convt. The best way to enjoy that car is to look at it. Enjoyment is CERTAINLY NOT in the driving!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 03:15 PM
Before we go any further I will have to admit that I am CHEATING!!!!!! I am looking in this book for all of the questions!!!!!!!!!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 03:16 PM
You could try squirting some penetrating oil into the lock cylinder to loosen up the hardened factory applied grease.
nope won't help
which lock?
if it's a door lock, to make the key lock/unlock nicely, it is common to clean and re-lubricate the lock mech inside the door. They get sticky over time.
Note:
This would not apply to trunk locks, glove box locks, front trunk locks, or ignition locks.
close enough! The latching mechanism inside the door has a slider on it that moves up and down to lock and unlock, the small door latch cam on the end of the cylinder moving it up and down. It gets dirty and takes way too much force to move finally resulting in the end of the cylinder rounding off in the cam. To make the car lock and unlock easily simply remove the door panel remove the latching mechanism, clean with brake clean and lube with penetrant that turns to grease, working the sliding mechanism (looks like a c) until smooth. You will not believe the difference!
Posted by: Rand Jan 31 2007, 03:18 PM
I really love this trivia thread. Great stuff. The only thing that snags me a little about it is..... There are a ton of real-world actual problems in the garage that could use this much attention.
Don't get me wrong, and please keep this up.... But also, how 'bout we put this much effort into helping our buds solve their current/real problems?
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 03:26 PM
I really love this trivia thread. Great stuff. The only thing that snags me a little about it is..... There are a ton of real-world actual problems in the garage that could use this much attention.
Don't get me wrong, and please keep this up.... But also, how 'bout we put this much effort into helping our buds solve their current/real problems?
good point. However As I have stated several times before I am available 24 hours a day for detailed tech advice. My number here is 770 427 2844 ext 16 My home number is 770 971 4960 and my cell number is 404 308 5652. If I do not have the 914 answer i will refer you. Please do not hesitate to call at any hour. (obviously I have to sleep but if it is important to you, call me)
Good enough??
Posted by: John Jan 31 2007, 03:26 PM
That's ok George, I'm using one of these:
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 03:31 PM
That's ok George, I'm using one of these:
thank you. disgusting picture though!!!!!!!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 03:34 PM
Suddenly everytime I drive my 2.0 it eventually dies and I coast to the side of the road. I do not hear the familier whir of the fuel pump for a second or two and the fuse on the relay board is blown. I put a new one in and it works for a few days and the then the whole thing starts over again! I know that I am not using the heater these days and the fuel pump "tests out" What the heck could be causing this problem. I now hesitate to drive my 914 because it is unreliable
Posted by: Phoenix914 Jan 31 2007, 03:34 PM
That's ok George, I'm using one of these:
I'll take mine with fava beans and a nice chianti.
Posted by: vsg914 Jan 31 2007, 03:37 PM
wire on aar is shorting on the block.
Posted by: Rand Jan 31 2007, 03:38 PM
I have stated several times before I am available 24 hours a day for detailed tech advice. My number here is 770 427 2844 ext 16 My home number is 770 971 4960 and my cell number is 404 308 5652. If I do not have the 914 answer i will refer you. Please do not hesitate to call at any hour.
Good enough??
No, where's the satellite hookup? Why aren't you on Discovery Channel??
Just kidding George. Please don't misinterpret my comments. Clearly you are going way beyond the call to be available for tech support. Quite amazing actually. Thank you!!!
This thread rocks. As I said, keep it up!!!
All I was saying was, it would be cool to see this much posting time/effort put into answering the unanswered actual problems posted in this forum.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 03:48 PM
wire on aar is shorting on the block.
very very close, and good enough! The valve itself is shorting internally. The aux air valve the heater fan and the fuel pump are on the same fuse!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 03:50 PM
I have stated several times before I am available 24 hours a day for detailed tech advice. My number here is 770 427 2844 ext 16 My home number is 770 971 4960 and my cell number is 404 308 5652. If I do not have the 914 answer i will refer you. Please do not hesitate to call at any hour.
Good enough??
No, where's the satellite hookup? Why aren't you on Discovery Channel??
Just kidding George. Please don't misinterpret my comments. Clearly you are going way beyond the call to be available for tech support. Quite amazing actually. Thank you!!!
This thread rocks. As I said, keep it up!!!
All I was saying was, it would be cool to see this much posting time/effort put into answering the actual problems posted in this forum.
being who I am there are just certain things I cannot and will not answer...like: What is the best muffler for my v-8!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I of course try to answer the appropriate questions!! (someone has to tote the line!!)
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 03:51 PM
My 1.8 suddenly starts to run on three cylinders so I replace the points check the valve adjust replace the plug wire the plug and even switch the injector and just cannot figure it out! What could be the problem???
Posted by: vsg914 Jan 31 2007, 03:52 PM
wire on aar is shorting on the block.
very very close, and good enough! The valve itself is shorting internally. The aux air valve the heater fan and the fuel pump are on the same fuse!
i learned that lesson the hard way.
Posted by: Rand Jan 31 2007, 03:56 PM
being who I am there are just certain things I cannot and will not answer...like: What is the best muffler for my v-8!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I of course try to answer the appropriate questions!! (someone has to tote the line!!)
I respect that. I wasn't referring the Chevy questions. I just mean let's put the real 914 questions in this forum above the hypothetical trivia. I just don't want to see the former getting buried by the latter.
I'm glad you're here. Thanks for toting the line. Sorry for the hijack.
Posted by: John Jan 31 2007, 04:08 PM
My 1.8 suddenly starts to run on three cylinders so I replace the points check the valve adjust replace the plug wire the plug and even switch the injector and just cannot figure it out! What could be the problem???
Check for spark and check for fuel. To narrow down the problem.
If no fuel (or pulses to injector), check the connector, the resistor pack or even the dual relay.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 04:10 PM
My 1.8 suddenly starts to run on three cylinders so I replace the points check the valve adjust replace the plug wire the plug and even switch the injector and just cannot figure it out! What could be the problem???
Check for spark and check for fuel. To narrow down the problem.
If no fuel (or pulses to injector), check the connector, the resistor pack or even the dual relay.
You are close there is a very specific problem here
Posted by: John Jan 31 2007, 04:13 PM
I used to just have those connectors pop right out of the injectors.
Posted by: r_towle Jan 31 2007, 04:18 PM
Injector relay pack.
Injector Ground wire
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 04:22 PM
I used to just have those connectors pop right out of the injectors.
They do but usually the 1.8 have a tension wire clip to prevent that. however that is not my problem
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 04:23 PM
Injector relay pack.
Injector Ground wire
nope the relay would strand them all and the ground is specific side to side. I just cannot figure this one out. It is just one cylinder that is not working!!!! Help me
Posted by: Headrage Jan 31 2007, 04:30 PM
That's ok George, I'm using one of these:
A deformed testicle?
Posted by: John Jan 31 2007, 04:32 PM
Is it fuel or spark?
Which cylinder?
Posted by: John Jan 31 2007, 04:33 PM
You are a what?
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 04:36 PM
Is it fuel or spark?
Which cylinder?
My 1.8 suddenly starts to run on three cylinders so I replace the points check the valve adjust replace the plug wire the plug and even switch the injector and just cannot figure it out! What could be the problem???
Posted by: 911quest Jan 31 2007, 04:40 PM
Which cylinder?
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 04:55 PM
What has happened is that one white wire on the resistor block has broken from its crimp knocking out a cylinder. Simply remove the block (mounted on the side of the battery stand, looks like four cigarettes in an aluminum holder) and open the crimp and recrimp. (soldering never holds well enough)
I'm back on the road again!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 05:32 PM
I finally arrive home one night after dropping off my babe. ( I like to hit and run) I pull into the garage in my 914-6 and turn the head lights of but instead of parking they continue to cycle up and down for a minute or so. Suspecting a short I remove the positive battery cable. Yet the next night they do the same thing. Please what has happened here??
Posted by: Twystd1 Jan 31 2007, 05:49 PM
Ate too much acid???
C
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 31 2007, 05:59 PM
Ate too much acid???
C
yeah that is why I have dedicated my life to the 914 happened right after I left Woodstock.
Posted by: sean_v8_914 Jan 31 2007, 07:48 PM
dirty headlight motor fuse
Posted by: cooltimes Jan 31 2007, 08:01 PM
I finally arrive home one night after dropping off my babe. ( I like to hit and run) I pull into the garage in my 914-6 and turn the head lights of but instead of parking they continue to cycle up and down for a minute or so. Suspecting a short I remove the positive battery cable. Yet the next night they do the same thing. Please what has happened here??
Headlight switch circuit has to make a contact inside the relay to signal the headlight motor to retract. I would then say the switch is bad since it feeds the relay.
Posted by: URY914 Jan 31 2007, 08:06 PM
Check your ground wire that is on the headlight harness.
Posted by: John Jan 31 2007, 08:08 PM
What has happened is that one white wire on the resistor block has broken from its crimp knocking out a cylinder. Simply remove the block (mounted on the side of the battery stand, looks like four cigarettes in an aluminum holder) and open the crimp and recrimp. (soldering never holds well enough)
I'm back on the road again!
In my first reply, I mentioned to check the resistor pack.
Posted by: John Jan 31 2007, 08:21 PM
I finally arrive home one night after dropping off my babe. ( I like to hit and run) I pull into the garage in my 914-6 and turn the head lights of but instead of parking they continue to cycle up and down for a minute or so. Suspecting a short I remove the positive battery cable. Yet the next night they do the same thing. Please what has happened here??
bad diode(s) or problem with motor circuit
Posted by: Pat Garvey Jan 31 2007, 08:26 PM
Ate too much acid???
C
yeah that is why I have dedicated my life to the 914 happened right after I left Woodstock.
Oh yeah - Woodstock. Would loved to have been there, but Uncle Sugar thought I should be elsewhere! What the hell, i would have just gotten screwed up & ..... wait a minute, I did that anyway!
Just kidding! Two years later a 914 entered my life & has never left.
Still, wish I'd had the chance for Woodstock! The mud, the diarehea, the drugs, the babes, the cops, the music, the mud - wait, I'm repeating myself. Are you sure I wasn't there?
Posted by: sean_v8_914 Feb 1 2007, 09:56 AM
OK doc...whats the answer. my car was doing this but it healed itself
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 1 2007, 10:24 AM
It seems to be a problem only with the 70 and 71 models
Posted by: michel richard Feb 1 2007, 10:25 AM
I finally arrive home one night after dropping off my babe. ( I like to hit and run) I pull into the garage in my 914-6 and turn the head lights of but instead of parking they continue to cycle up and down for a minute or so. Suspecting a short I remove the positive battery cable. Yet the next night they do the same thing. Please what has happened here??
You should'nt remove the positive battery cable without first removing the ground battery cable. Now, we all know you are a careful mechanic, so what you did, of course, is completely disconnect the battery. This being said, I dunno what the problem is . . . : - )
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 1 2007, 10:31 AM
I finally arrive home one night after dropping off my babe. ( I like to hit and run) I pull into the garage in my 914-6 and turn the head lights of but instead of parking they continue to cycle up and down for a minute or so. Suspecting a short I remove the positive battery cable. Yet the next night they do the same thing. Please what has happened here??
You should'nt remove the positive battery cable without first removing the ground battery cable. Now, we all know you are a careful mechanic, so what you did, of course, is completely disconnect the battery. This being said, I dunno what the problem is . . . : - )
The scenerio here is that I am a knucklehead and need advice (and that may or may not be true!!!!!!) thank you for that tip!!!!!
Posted by: faux916 Feb 1 2007, 10:58 AM
I finally arrive home one night after dropping off my babe. ( I like to hit and run) I pull into the garage in my 914-6 and turn the head lights of but instead of parking they continue to cycle up and down for a minute or so. Suspecting a short I remove the positive battery cable. Yet the next night they do the same thing. Please what has happened here??
You should'nt remove the positive battery cable without first removing the ground battery cable. Now, we all know you are a careful mechanic, so what you did, of course, is completely disconnect the battery. This being said, I dunno what the problem is . . . : - )
The scenerio here is that I am a knucklehead and need advice (and that may or may not be true!!!!!!) thank you for that tip!!!!!
I say,you are not a knucklehead and you get back in the 914-6, you go back to see the girlfriend and give her a good
and worry about the headlights in the morning! 
Posted by: faux916 Feb 1 2007, 11:00 AM
So Doc, Tell me what i've won! 
Posted by: cooltimes Feb 1 2007, 11:15 AM
It seems to be a problem only with the 70 and 71 models
Dr. 914,
Staying within the theme:
You know what. I think we all need your tip book or at least I KNOW I do.
How about a Dr. 914's 700 Tips group buy?
How much including postage if I send you a personal check?
I had one earlier but since moving into a much smaller home and no storage space, I can't find it or anything else.
Mike
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 1 2007, 02:25 PM
It seems to be a problem only with the 70 and 71 models
Dr. 914,
Staying within the theme:
You know what. I think we all need your tip book or at least I KNOW I do.
How about a Dr. 914's 700 Tips group buy?
How much including postage if I send you a personal check?
I had one earlier but since moving into a much smaller home and no storage space, I can't find it or anything else.
Mike
Hi mike I am sure that there is a group buy of autographed copies that mr Robbins may offer.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 1 2007, 02:31 PM
So Doc, Tell me what i've won!
You make a very good point and the obvious solution to all of us who have their headS on straight, however, a couple of laps a time is about all that I can handle (sad to say) unless I change rides. Maybe if I could drive one with a flare around the track for 15 laps and then change to one with say, more purr to the engine, or brighter headlights, I could get reenthused and add that extra length needed to complete the session in the right amount of time.
As ee cummings began: she was brand...
Posted by: faux916 Feb 1 2007, 02:49 PM
So Doc, Tell me what i've won!
You make a very good point and the obvious solution to all of us who have their headS on straight, however, a couple of laps a time is about all that I can handle (sad to say) unless I change rides. Maybe if I could drive one with a flare around the track for 15 laps and then change to one with say, more purr to the engine, or brighter headlights, I could get reenthused and add that extra length needed to complete the session in the right amount of time.
As ee cummings began: she was brand...
In reality, I too would be ![yellowsleep[1].gif](style_emoticons/default/yellowsleep[1].gif)
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 1 2007, 03:14 PM
Check your ground wire that is on the headlight harness.
Very very close enough. The early headlight motors had a problem with their braking ground. As one knows the only way to have an electric motor stop on a dime and not over ride itself is to have the motor shorted for an instant to work against itself. Low voltage or corrosion especially effected these early motors causing the pickup to overrun the stopping point and continue to run on the other side of the pick up plate. This problem was rectified in 1972
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 1 2007, 03:20 PM
Here is an easy one: My top is squeeking in the rear, and the top latches are loose, and I am too cheap to afford a new 250.00 rear top seal. Please what is an easy solution to tighten up the roof?
Posted by: Demick Feb 1 2007, 03:28 PM
vinyl tubing (think fish tank) over the little pegs that the hooks latch onto.
Or better yet, buy a Sammy replacement seal for ~$40
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 1 2007, 04:11 PM
vinyl tubing (think fish tank) over the little pegs that the hooks latch onto.
Or better yet, buy a Sammy replacement seal for ~$40
very close but an easier solution
Posted by: r_towle Feb 1 2007, 04:17 PM
Well, depending upon how you read the question...
To stop the squeak, apply glycerin to the rubber (hard rubber) stops on the rear roof where it latches to the targa bar...
If its how do I tighten the roof,,,
You either shim the latch with tubing, adjust the latch, or get a new rear roof gasket.
Simple is the first one.
Rich
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 1 2007, 05:08 PM
Well, depending upon how you read the question...
To stop the squeak, apply glycerin to the rubber (hard rubber) stops on the rear roof where it latches to the targa bar...
If its how do I tighten the roof,,,
You either shim the latch with tubing, adjust the latch, or get a new rear roof gasket.
Simple is the first one.
Rich
close enough. If one looks at the rubber snubber on the roof, you will see that the holes in it are slotted. Simply loosening the allen bolts and sliding it inward, tightens the top and allows the latches to pull the top down harder.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 1 2007, 05:24 PM
Another easy one:
I started my 914 1.7 this morning (it was pretty cold this morning) and backed down the driveway and was about to take off when I noticed the green oil pressure light coming on. Of course not being a woman I immediately shut it down and then noticed a long stream of oil all the way down the driveway. Figuring that I probably have a leaking valve cover and I could just take it to the shop to get an easy fix I pour a quart of oil into the car check it and then have to add another two! I start the car again and the oil just squirts out like a sucide victim with a cut wrist. Looks like it is coming out at the pass side front of the engine. Well, I guess I have really done something wrong now! Please help!
I was just kidding about the woman comment, for any of you girls reading this!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted by: cooltimes Feb 1 2007, 05:49 PM
[/quote]
Hi mike I am sure that there is a group buy of autographed copies that mr Robbins may offer.
[/quote]
Posted by: Demick Feb 1 2007, 05:49 PM
blew out an oil galley plug.
Posted by: 9146986 Feb 1 2007, 06:28 PM
oil cooler seal
Posted by: ChrisNPDrider Feb 1 2007, 06:39 PM
Your "hit and run" girlfriend was offended by another one of your bad female driver comments and wiggled under your 1.7 in the dark of the night and stole your oil filter. 
Posted by: SGB Feb 1 2007, 06:41 PM
gally plug has gotta be right- for that kinda gushing.
Posted by: pin31 Feb 1 2007, 08:08 PM
oil pressure sender ????
Posted by: ppickerell Feb 1 2007, 09:38 PM
A midget, a rabbit and a spaceman walk into a bar....
Posted by: r_towle Feb 1 2007, 09:41 PM
cold weather means thick oil.
Thick oil means high oil pressure.
Oil galley plug, relief valve, oil cooler, oil pump, oil filter...
Your story needs more explanation...
I would ask the customer a few more questions....like where specifically is it leaking....sorry passenger side leaves to many possibles, including all the ones I have listed, and push rod tubes, valve cover gasket...etc.
Rich
Posted by: John Feb 1 2007, 10:06 PM
They leak in so many places.
Passenger side front.... Front... hmmm...
First look at:
Oil Pump
Oil Filter
Oil cooler
Oil Pressure switch (top side above cooler and filter)
Then start looking elsewhere if those are not leaking profusely.
just my $0.02
Posted by: Dave_Darling Feb 2 2007, 12:26 AM
If my own car (the old 1.8 I used to have) is any example, it's an oil gallery plug. Found the plug in the oil puddle, even!!
--DD
Posted by: So.Cal.914 Feb 2 2007, 12:57 AM
First I would check the filter then the preasure sensor(these two are easy) last the
cooler seals. Welded my oil galley holes shut(no leak).
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 08:44 AM
blew out an oil galley plug.
Dead on! these galley plugs over the years have expanded and contracted as the case has done the same finally working themselves loose. On a cold morning with slow moving heavy oil is the time they usually finally blow out.
Darn, I guess now I will have to remove the engine!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 08:45 AM
First I would check the filter then the preasure sensor(these two are easy) last the
cooler seals. Welded my oil galley holes shut(no leak).
you beat me to it! no galley plugs blowing out for you!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 08:46 AM
They leak in so many places.
Passenger side front.... Front... hmmm...
First look at:
Oil Pump nope
Oil Filter nope
Oil cooler nope
Oil Pressure switch (top side above cooler and filter) nope!
Then start looking elsewhere if those are not leaking profusely.
just my $0.02
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 08:46 AM
If my own car (the old 1.8 I used to have) is any example, it's an oil gallery plug. Found the plug in the oil puddle, even!!
--DD
dead on my darling
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 08:49 AM
cold weather means thick oil.
Thick oil means high oil pressure.
Oil galley plug, relief valve, oil cooler, oil pump, oil filter...
Your story needs more explanation...
I would ask the customer a few more questions....like where specifically is it leaking....sorry passenger side leaves to many possibles, including all the ones I have listed, and push rod tubes, valve cover gasket...etc.
Rich
Galley plug you got it. That is the ONLY thing that would cause that kind of a sudden and mortal leak!
I am trying to keep this to the level of 914 quirks. things that are odd to the car and have happened over and over again many times.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 08:49 AM
oil pressure sender ????
nope!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 08:50 AM
gally plug has gotta be right- for that kinda gushing.
dead on !
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 08:52 AM
oil cooler seal
Nope Perry. That kind of a leak even if both leak do not cause the kind of mortal leak that I am speaking of.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 08:55 AM
Your "hit and run" girlfriend was offended by another one of your bad female driver comments and wiggled under your 1.7 in the dark of the night and stole your oil filter.
That is what happened. I did not want to tell the guys though sort of makes me look like a sheep. I am glad though that she did it. Too many women these days put up with a man's abuse and it never ceases to amaze me that the battered women's shelters are full of black eyed women lamenting: "But I LOVE him!" Sick.
Posted by: Phoenix914 Feb 2 2007, 09:13 AM
I blew two oil coolers in my '72 super beetle with a 2.1L engine. In that case I was young, dumb and ... oh never mind. I used oil that was too heavy and the cold weather did it in.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 09:19 AM
My 1974 914 has suddenly developed a strange problem that is annoying the heck out of me: I am driving along minding my own business when suddenly out the of the blue my wipers swipe one time and then park. I never know when it is going to happen and I know that my wipers are turned off. What in the world could be the problem?
Posted by: cooltimes Feb 2 2007, 10:21 AM
My 1974 914 has suddenly developed a strange problem that is annoying the heck out of me: I am driving along minding my own business when suddenly out the of the blue my wipers swipe one time and then park. I never know when it is going to happen and I know that my wipers are turned off. What in the world could be the problem?
There is a short in the wiper switch on the steering column.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 10:25 AM
My 1974 914 has suddenly developed a strange problem that is annoying the heck out of me: I am driving along minding my own business when suddenly out the of the blue my wipers swipe one time and then park. I never know when it is going to happen and I know that my wipers are turned off. What in the world could be the problem?
There is a short in the wiper switch on the steering column.
Close but no short mike.
Posted by: pin31 Feb 2 2007, 11:31 AM
Dr, to quote from the bible (pg. 91, #669):
"If the wipers occasionally swipe once on their own, the left lower grounding screw is loose on the wiper/turn signal switch assembly, which is locateed under the steering wheel. Only cars equipped with intermittent wipers have this problem."
How about tips not included in the book (700+) !!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 01:14 PM
Dr, to quote from the bible (pg. 91, #669):
"If the wipers occasionally swipe once on their own, the left lower grounding screw is loose on the wiper/turn signal switch assembly, which is locateed under the steering wheel. Only cars equipped with intermittent wipers have this problem."
How about tips not included in the book (700+) !!
Dead on!!!!!
Posted by: So.Cal.914 Feb 2 2007, 01:19 PM
Dr, to quote from the bible (pg. 91, #669):
"If the wipers occasionally swipe once on their own, the left lower grounding screw is loose on the wiper/turn signal switch assembly, which is locateed under the steering wheel. Only cars equipped with intermittent wipers have this problem."
How about tips not included in the book (700+) !!
I believe the whole deal here is to be on our honor and not use the book. This
is for us to see what we have learned and retained or what we can asertain
from the facts and troubleshoot like we have for years. And for the others
to develope there trouble shooting skills and knowledge base. In short, fun
for all.
Posted by: pin31 Feb 2 2007, 01:29 PM
I agree.............I just want to learn even more (701 +).
I cheated and read the book (MUST have book for us all).
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 01:43 PM
I was so proud of myself! I installed my own rear bumper top seal! Two weeks later though I turned on the headlights and saw smoking in the engine compartment! When I looked I saw that the trunk light wiring had melted!!!! What happened now??
I love my 914 but it is really becoming unreliable!
Posted by: pin31 Feb 2 2007, 02:44 PM
This just happened to me although no smoke.
Reversed licience plate wire, same circuit as rear trunk light, shorted to ground. Diagram in the Haynes manual.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 02:47 PM
This just happened to me although no smoke.
Reversed licience plate wire, same circuit as rear trunk light, shorted to ground. Diagram in the Haynes manual.
dead on! You are good!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 02:52 PM
An easy one: Now all of a sudden My 2.0 stopped running on the right rear and the left front cylinders! I know that the ignition system is good. What happened?
Posted by: ws91420 Feb 2 2007, 03:00 PM
one side of trigger points went bad or broken wire to the trigger points at the distributor
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 03:21 PM
one side of trigger points went bad or broken wire to the trigger points at the distributor
Excellent!!!!!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 03:24 PM
Now the hood release handle pulls without releasing the hood! I have tried everything including removing the screw in the handle base! how am I going to get into the front trunk compartment without cutting a hole in my hood? (why did they have to put the gas cap under the hood anyway??)
Posted by: Travis Neff Feb 2 2007, 03:31 PM
The release cable snapped, remove the front bumper to acces the latching mechanism
Posted by: ws91420 Feb 2 2007, 03:33 PM
Now the hood release handle pulls without releasing the hood! I have tried everything including removing the screw in the handle base! how am I going to get into the front trunk compartment without cutting a hole in my hood? (why did they have to put the gas cap under the hood anyway??)
On pre 75 cars remove the front bumper bolts to gain acess to the front latch through a hole in the sheetmetal in the center behind the bumper. BTDT
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 03:34 PM
The release cable snapped, remove the front bumper to acces the latching mechanism
Very good. There is a hole dead center in the front panel with a rubber plug in it. Simply remove the plug insert a screw driver and move to one side and the lid will "pop"!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 03:37 PM
My clutch cable broke the other day and the shop seemed to do a good job, but now what seems to happen is that everytime I press in the clutch pedal the engine revs. Very strange!
Posted by: ws91420 Feb 2 2007, 03:38 PM
Got clutch cable wrapped around throttle cable BTDT
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 04:05 PM
Got clutch cable wrapped around throttle cable BTDT
wow you guys are good! Exactly and easy to do.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 04:16 PM
My 1.8 fuel pump runs everytime I turn the key to "on" and I do not remember hearing this before. It also seems now to run a little rough at idle when it gets hot. What do you think has happened?
Posted by: ws91420 Feb 2 2007, 04:22 PM
stuck air flow meter?
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 04:30 PM
stuck air flow meter?
absolutely. The car must have lean backfired on me! the sticking flap enrichens the mixture which causes the rough idle and the points are not opening to turn off the power to the fuel pump.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 04:34 PM
I was driving along and came to a stop and then started off again. Suddenly I heard a clunk and I lost all power and just coasted to a stop. The engine sounds fine but the shifter feels funny and the car will go absolutely no where! What the heck has happened now??
Posted by: Travis Neff Feb 2 2007, 04:41 PM
Broken CV joint.
Posted by: Travis Neff Feb 2 2007, 04:44 PM
Or the set screw came out of the shift rod
Posted by: ws91420 Feb 2 2007, 04:48 PM
broken fingers on pressure plate
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 05:01 PM
Broken CV joint.
close
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 05:01 PM
broken fingers on pressure plate
Nope!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 05:01 PM
Or the set screw came out of the shift rod
Nope
Posted by: Travis Neff Feb 2 2007, 05:03 PM
CV Bolts backed out
Posted by: pbanders Feb 2 2007, 05:03 PM
You spin your 914. It starts and runs after the spin, but runs very poorly, with lots of black sooty exhaust. What happened?
Posted by: Travis Neff Feb 2 2007, 05:05 PM
as the car spun it rolled backwards, thus putting postive pressure on the MPS diaphram and broke it (rather than vacuum).
Remember, both feet in! for a spin
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 2 2007, 05:44 PM
CV Bolts backed out
YES! the cv came loose and hit the shift rod bending it. Now it is not connected so the 914 will go nowhere fast!
Posted by: orange914 Feb 2 2007, 06:13 PM
That's ok George, I'm using one of these:
thank you. disgusting picture though!!!!!!!
hey i love 914's too
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 3 2007, 10:28 AM
My Dad flew in to see me and I proudly took him for a drive in my gleaming, freshly restored 914-6. Downtown Atlanta, we stopped at the gas station, pumped the gas and then started off again. As I shifted into second, I suddenly lost all shifting capability! The clutch would work fine, the engine would run fine, (but now the car was stuck in 2nd gear) yet the shifter felt totally free and loose.
As I listened to my dad frustratingly calling my 914 "clapped out" I looked under the car, my Dad working the shifter, and saw all of the linkage moving freely, even into the transaxle! Shrugging my shoulders and still wincing at the "clapped out" remark, I called the tow company to take the car home, my bubble burst!
What could be the problem??
Posted by: John Feb 3 2007, 10:51 AM
Check the rear spiral shaft (at the rear of the lnkage), then try shiftng the trans by hand at the input shaft at the trans. If the input shaft moves freely, it could be that the cotter pin broke/fell out allowing the nner shift lever to become detached.
Unfortunately, I have not dealt with many tail sfifter cars.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 3 2007, 11:29 AM
Check the rear spiral shaft (at the rear of the lnkage), then try shiftng the trans by hand at the input shaft at the trans. If the input shaft moves freely, it could be that the cotter pin broke/fell out allowing the nner shift lever to become detached.
Unfortunately, I have not dealt with many tail sfifter cars.
You got it john! The rear shift lever that goes into the tail cover has a triple rolled pin that eventually breaks causing the car to be dead in the water. The replacement pin must be the factory variety or it will soon break again. Replacement procedure consists of draining the transmission fluid, moving the lever to one side and knocking the pin out with a long drift.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 3 2007, 11:36 AM
I am so happy! I found a great set of Pedrini factory alloy wheels that looked great and were perfectly straight. I was so excited when I jacked my 914 up and bolted them on the rear and then jacked up the front.... but alas they don't fit!!!! The centering circle in the middle of the rotor is interfering! I know that I have seen these same wheels on other later 914s (mine is a 1974) so why do these not fit???
Posted by: 72914S Feb 3 2007, 11:45 AM
Must be the early wheels,they will not fit because they are not machined for the later hub.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 3 2007, 11:57 AM
Must be the early wheels,they will not fit because they are not machined for the later hub.
true, but I have for sure seen them on the later cars so why won't they fit
Posted by: John Feb 3 2007, 12:08 PM
Like he said, they are lug centric, One could swtch the front rotors/hubs to earlier front rotors/hubs or machine the wheels to accept the hub centric ring.
Posted by: vsg914 Feb 3 2007, 12:13 PM
You have two hub centric and two lug centric wheels.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 3 2007, 12:15 PM
Like he said, they are lug centric, One could swtch the front rotors/hubs to earlier front rotors/hubs or machine the wheels to accept the hub centric ring.
one could, yes but there is a bolt on solution
Posted by: orange914 Feb 3 2007, 01:52 PM
Like he said, they are lug centric, One could swtch the front rotors/hubs to earlier front rotors/hubs or machine the wheels to accept the hub centric ring.
one could, yes but there is a bolt on solution
dont know the bolt on solution, but here is a picture of the slight difference between the early ® and late 73 up (L)
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 3 2007, 01:58 PM
Like he said, they are lug centric, One could swtch the front rotors/hubs to earlier front rotors/hubs or machine the wheels to accept the hub centric ring.
one could, yes but there is a bolt on solution
dont know the bolt on solution, but here is a picture of the slight difference between the early ® and late 73 up (L)
Close enough. There were differences (one of which you have pointed out) between the 70-72 pedrini alloys and the 73 pedrini alloys. One of them and the significant one is that the 73 with the part number suffix of 01 was machined to fit the 73-76 centering hub. If one had purchased this set they would have fit the 74 model perfectly!
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 3 2007, 02:02 PM
My six cylinder 914-6 has a plastic steering wheel and I would like to install a leather one, and I can not find one anywhere, and the Porsche factory says over 1000 for a new one. I bought a perfect leather one for a four cylinder 914 on e bay but it won't fit. Is there anything I can do?
Posted by: 9146986 Feb 3 2007, 03:39 PM
Grind off the rivets on both wheels and bolt the -4 on the -6 hub.
Posted by: Dave_Darling Feb 3 2007, 05:30 PM
Heh. I'm waiting for the: "My brake light keeps blinking--I know the brakes are OK because I just bled them!" question.
And the "Huge oil leak off the left side of the engine, only when it's running" question.
--DD
Posted by: Travis Neff Feb 5 2007, 09:42 PM
Bada Bump! 
Posted by: Travis Neff Feb 5 2007, 09:43 PM
For the pedrini's they are hubcentric depending on year. Can you use a hubcentric adapter??
Posted by: John Feb 5 2007, 11:44 PM
My six cylinder 914-6 has a plastic steering wheel and I would like to install a leather one, and I can not find one anywhere, and the Porsche factory says over 1000 for a new one. I bought a perfect leather one for a four cylinder 914 on e bay but it won't fit. Is there anything I can do?
Can't you trim it down a bit and have the 4-cyl fit? Isn't it just the hub skirt and the turn signal cancelling ring that are different?
I'm probably way way wrong. (never owned an original 914-6)
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 6 2007, 08:34 AM
Grind off the rivets on both wheels and bolt the -4 on the -6 hub.
close but no
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 6 2007, 08:34 AM
My six cylinder 914-6 has a plastic steering wheel and I would like to install a leather one, and I can not find one anywhere, and the Porsche factory says over 1000 for a new one. I bought a perfect leather one for a four cylinder 914 on e bay but it won't fit. Is there anything I can do?
Can't you trim it down a bit and have the 4-cyl fit? Isn't it just the hub skirt and the turn signal cancelling ring that are different?
I'm probably way way wrong. (never owned an original 914-6)
nope too much work
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 6 2007, 08:36 AM
Heh. I'm waiting for the: "My brake light keeps blinking--I know the brakes are OK because I just bled them!" question.
And the "Huge oil leak off the left side of the engine, only when it's running" question.
--DD
Can't I just push a button and install a small shouldered bolt to solve all of the above?
Posted by: Dave_Darling Feb 6 2007, 09:22 AM
Can't I just push a button and install a small shouldered bolt to solve all of the above?
Of course you can!
But those seem to be two of the more popular simple errors...--DD
Posted by: rmital Feb 6 2007, 10:17 AM
This is a slight hijack...hopefully George could elaborate on the information below.
This is in reference to Appendix T in Tech Tips:
My 1.7L was acting as if it was flooding out, or it would idle but wouldn’t accelerate. I suspected the CHT. I’ve read the simple test you suggested in the Tech Tip book but don’t fully understand.
You said to disconnect the CHT and run a lead from it’s connection to the wiring harness to the negative terminal of the battery. Then disconnect the fuel pump circuit and run the engine out of fuel to “clean it out”. Before making the test or head temperature sensor substitution will have no effect.
Is this just part of the procedure to replacing the CHT…or should I learn that the sensor is no good in this process?
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 6 2007, 10:36 AM
This is a slight hijack...hopefully George could elaborate on the information below.
This is in reference to Appendix T in Tech Tips:
My 1.7L was acting as if it was flooding out, or it would idle but wouldn’t accelerate. I suspected the CHT. I’ve read the simple test you suggested in the Tech Tip book but don’t fully understand.
You said to disconnect the CHT and run a lead from it’s connection to the wiring harness to the negative terminal of the battery. Then disconnect the fuel pump circuit and run the engine out of fuel to “clean it out”. Before making the test or head temperature sensor substitution will have no effect.
Is this just part of the procedure to replacing the CHT…or should I learn that the sensor is no good in this process?
Ray that will show you if the sensor is bad but it is not required to remove the relay when replacing the sensor. Make sure that you tap the top of the sensor before unscrewing to make sure that the threads unseize first or the sensor may break. THAT would not "be pretty"
Posted by: John Feb 6 2007, 11:35 AM
My six cylinder 914-6 has a plastic steering wheel and I would like to install a leather one, and I can not find one anywhere, and the Porsche factory says over 1000 for a new one. I bought a perfect leather one for a four cylinder 914 on e bay but it won't fit. Is there anything I can do?
Can't you trim it down a bit and have the 4-cyl fit? Isn't it just the hub skirt and the turn signal cancelling ring that are different?
I'm probably way way wrong. (never owned an original 914-6)
nope too much work
If that is too much work, can you simply use a spacer for the 4-cyl steering wheel? I just don't know the thickness required. You would have to measure.
Posted by: SLITS Feb 6 2007, 01:07 PM
This is a slight hijack...hopefully George could elaborate on the information below.
This is in reference to Appendix T in Tech Tips:
My 1.7L was acting as if it was flooding out, or it would idle but wouldn’t accelerate. I suspected the CHT. I’ve read the simple test you suggested in the Tech Tip book but don’t fully understand.
You said to disconnect the CHT and run a lead from it’s connection to the wiring harness to the negative terminal of the battery. Then disconnect the fuel pump circuit and run the engine out of fuel to “clean it out”. Before making the test or head temperature sensor substitution will have no effect.
Is this just part of the procedure to replacing the CHT…or should I learn that the sensor is no good in this process?
If you talk to Bob at Fuel Injection Corporation, he will tell you to put a paper clip between the wire harness connection and the CHT ... according to him, the clip will act as a resistor. I've never tried it ....
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Feb 6 2007, 04:44 PM
I have a good one when someone gets close enough to the steering wheel post
Posted by: So.Cal.914 Mar 6 2007, 12:40 AM
Posted by: cooltimes Mar 6 2007, 02:01 AM
My six cylinder 914-6 has a plastic steering wheel and I would like to install a leather one, and I can not find one anywhere, and the Porsche factory says over 1000 for a new one. I bought a perfect leather one for a four cylinder 914 on e bay but it won't fit. Is there anything I can do?
Wrap it.
If AA has the item http://www.automobileatalanta.com/
or
http://www.automotion.com/ProductPage.aspx?pid=110424
Posted by: xperu Mar 6 2007, 12:47 PM
Suddenly everytime I drive my 2.0 it eventually dies and I coast to the side of the road. I do not hear the familier whir of the fuel pump for a second or two and the fuse on the relay board is blown. I put a new one in and it works for a few days and the then the whole thing starts over again! I know that I am not using the heater these days and the fuel pump "tests out" What the heck could be causing this problem. I now hesitate to drive my 914 because it is unreliable
I had the very sam problem to the point I was going to install a Carburetors, I just could not rely on the car to go anwhere. I drive it down the block and it would die and I would have to push it home "Twice" you know I heard from my wife "all that money and your pushing it!". anyway I took it to a local air cooled VW mechanic for carburation; I was sick over carburation, but come to find out it was a loose yellow wire that the previous owner monkied with at the relay panel.
Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Mar 6 2007, 12:52 PM
My six cylinder 914-6 has a plastic steering wheel and I would like to install a leather one, and I can not find one anywhere, and the Porsche factory says over 1000 for a new one. I bought a perfect leather one for a four cylinder 914 on e bay but it won't fit. Is there anything I can do?
Wrap it.
If AA has the item http://www.automobileatalanta.com/
or
http://www.automotion.com/ProductPage.aspx?pid=110424
the answer is to simply remove the plastic steering wheel hub on the 914-4 wheel and voila! A 914-6 steering wheel (or an rsr wheel!!!)
Posted by: Jeffs9146 Mar 6 2007, 01:09 PM
Suddenly everytime I drive my 2.0 it eventually dies and I coast to the side of the road. I do not hear the familier whir of the fuel pump for a second or two and the fuse on the relay board is blown. I put a new one in and it works for a few days and the then the whole thing starts over again! I know that I am not using the heater these days and the fuel pump "tests out" What the heck could be causing this problem. I now hesitate to drive my 914 because it is unreliable
I had the very sam problem to the point I was going to install a Carburetors, I just could not rely on the car to go anwhere. I drive it down the block and it would die and I would have to push it home "Twice" you know I heard from my wife "all that money and your pushing it!". anyway I took it to a local air cooled VW mechanic for carburation; I was sick over carburation, but come to find out it was a loose yellow wire that the previous owner monkied with at the relay panel.
CHT!!!
Jeff
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)