Does anyone have a writeup on how to install a CV joint on the axle?
I'm uncertain of which goes first and in what direction.
Here is a pic of the kit:
Thanks
huh...I just did this a few months back and could have sworn there was something. But I guess I just looked at a bunch of threads via the search function. Lots of info including how to make sure the CV joint itself is put together properly.
Pretty straight forward really, biggest issue was removing the axle from the car. Eat your wheaties and get a big breaker bar for the castle nut on the rear wheel. As far as the order goes, you will see that as you remove the old CV. Wear gloves and old clothes - its messy
good luck
How VW's this month has an article.
Pretty easy actually.
And you got too many parts there. Looks like you got enough to do either one kind or another.
The concave washer and the open circlip go to a 4 cylinder car the slpined concave washer and circlip with holes in the end ???? I have never seen those on a 4 cylinder car.
That's ALOT of grease.
What I don't see is a new gasket to go between CV and transaxle output flange.
I removed both drive shafts already, that was a real PITA! I also stripped off the old CVs ane cleaned up the axles. I found a few threads on making sure the CV is put together properly, mine are already assembled.
The kit also came with four CV/output flange gaskets.
I can't find anything at HotVWs. Do you have a link?
Also, the CVs are dry. Do I need to dissasemble the puzzle and grease everything before assembly or can I install it right on the axle and shoot grease in there.
Thanks
New issue on the magazine rack at Wall mart yesterday.
Don't take the CV's apart unless they are used and then the real puzzle is putting them back together.
Otherwise just squeeze as much grease into the CV as it will hold. then try and get more in it.
Filling the boots and output flange pocket is really not required.
Use whichever washer matches the one you took out, and it goes dished side toward the CV Joint. Use the smap ring that matches what came out, thoroughly grease the new joint before installing it on the axle, put the rest of the grease in the boot. USE THE WHOLE TUBE! Reuse any load spreading hardware, and get new schnorr washers.
That kit doesn't appear to be for a 914, BTW. If that's what you intend to use it for, better make sure it fits.
The Cap'n
It's the right kit from PMB Performance.
http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item/4055868/3857681.htm
Maybe the pic isn't accurate. I layed everything out on the table last night. I'll check it all again and see what I have.
Found the writeup here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=59275&hl=shaft
AHA! Generic picture. Don't forget to transfer the roll pins, and use new washers of the correct type. The Cap'n
Kit comes with new washers
Yarin,
I've created a CV joint installation manual by cutting and edited a factory manual for you.
Eric
I think he's concerned that the PO didn't always follow the rules...
I started installed the CVs and ran into a few options.
With the axles i'm using, i assume they are 914-4 axles, you should use the solid concave washer without the splines. (The kit comes with both). Then tap the CV onto the shaft. Without compressing the CV onto the shaft, there is exactly enough space for the C clip. However the other clip pictured here is the exact thickness of the slot, double the thickness of the C-clip, leading me to believe a press should be used to compress the concave washer and slide the clip in place. Dissasembly of the old CVs revealed flat washers that appear to have been installed then pressed.
Maybe i'm looking too far into all of this. If I follow the factory manual it says use the C clip, and don't press anything. I just don't want my stuff falling apart down the road.
Comments?
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Yarin,
The ones I have done had the concave washer without the splines and the thick "C" retainer clip. Like Crusty said, concave washer cup facing toward the joint, slide the joint on - it may take a little light persuasion - on the inner race only - but not a press. You just need to get it back far enough to be able to get the retainer in the groove. Make sure that the retainer is fully seated in the groove by comparing the gap between the ends with an unexpanded one. What I do is then to very lightly tap the joint outward against the retainer to put a little bind on it. Since the joint is kinda free on the splines this may do no good but it makes me feel better. Make sure you get both boots on before the second joint is on or you get to take it apart again. Yep I managed to do that - once.
Did you get the axle yet?
The last set I rebuilt required using a press to allow enough clearance for the snap ring. It required compressing the concave washer a little more than what I remember from prior CV replacements. I was using all pretty much all new parts though; CV's, boots, concave washers, snap rings, etc. The only part that was used was the actual drive shaft. YMMV
Is this normal?
One CV joint moves freely.. the other is pretty damn tight. It binds up easily and doesnt move as easily as the other. The joints are not greased, but have some oil on them from the manufacturer. Both are assembled properly.
Ok or not Ok?
Thanks
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=2014542694
I'm at about the same stage you are in the process...I'll be watching to see how you come out. I bought the same kit x 4 from PMB. I'm sure if you called Eric he'd be happy to talk everything over with you. I pulled out 1 new CV and it was hard to move but didn't mess with it much since it doesn't have grease yet.
Mine has the non-splined washers with the thick clip. Any problem with reusing the old washer to avoid pressing the cv to flatten the washer? I don't see much issue with reusing that washer (although I'm not the foremost expert on such things). Also my kits only came with the one snap ring type of clip and mine car had the other type on it.
Did you do the bearings as well?
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