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Posted by: J P Stein Nov 30 2003, 09:05 PM

For honing the hole in the swing arm.....whatcha' use, a MC hone?. Mine are gonna need it on the short side where it welds to the body of the arm.

Posted by: Mueller Dec 1 2003, 12:09 AM

I use a small cheap (perfect for guys like us) brake cylinder hone.

You might be better off getting a small 1" diameter drum roll sander which attaches to the end of a drill motor.

Whatever you do....DON'T POUND THE BEARINGS INTO THE TUBE !!!!!!

Posted by: fiid Dec 1 2003, 12:20 AM

I didn't do enough honing.

My left side tube went in with a regular hammer and a block of metal to protect the end. The bearing went in with light tapping with a plastic hammer. It';s fully assembled now, has been cleaned up and painted international blue. Gorgeous. The other side will be a breeze then ... (How wrong can you be?)

The right side is stuck 2" into the trailing arm. I can't get it to budge anymore.

Do any of you local guys have access to a press that I can finish the job with?

Fiid.

Posted by: Mueller Dec 1 2003, 12:31 AM

Fiid......

damn, I wish i had known earlier, i went thru SF today while on my way to Go Kart Racer in Burlingame

(had fastest time in 2 of 3 run groups I drove in )

I'm sure we can hook up sometime this week, pressing it in the rest of the way should be no big deal.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Dec 1 2003, 12:35 AM

Was their anyone at the track today besides you 3 ?? LOL


B

Posted by: Rgreen914 Dec 1 2003, 01:32 AM

I spent the bucks (about $150) for one of Performance Products' bearing pullers. Works great, once you figure out how to do it! I tore up one new bearing while trying to press it back in, but once you figure out how to press it in straight...it's a breeze.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Dec 1 2003, 01:35 AM

They are actually "speaking" about roller bearings for the pivot shaft... not the wheel bearings.

Freeze the rear wheel bearings prior to install.. they normally slide right in.


B

Posted by: Rgreen914 Dec 1 2003, 01:46 AM

Sorry...my mistake...probably 'cause I haven't spent too much time, yet, working on the suspension. I have a feeling I will be learning about that repair in the very near future.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Dec 1 2003, 02:06 AM

nah.. it's not really a repair. They are what we consider a BIG improvement over the hard plastic bushings people typically install (that squeak/groan and creak over time).

Thanks for the posts. I see you are semi new here on the BBS. How did you find us ?


B

Posted by: Rgreen914 Dec 1 2003, 02:34 AM

Judging from the thumping noise I hear when going over bumps and similar complaints I've read about on this site, it will turn out to be a needed repair (and probably sooner than later). I can't seem to remember exactly how I found this site...probably as a link from another site.

Posted by: BarberDave Dec 1 2003, 06:00 AM

Glad you found us, Welcome It,s fun ! Dave

Posted by: J P Stein Dec 1 2003, 11:07 AM

At the moment (nuthin' installed), the bearings drop into the insert....I'd like to keep it that way. The ID of the swingarm is out-of-round on the one end (eyeball.015-020). Getting your insert in is problematic there......thus the hone...which is not the ideal way to make a hole round.
A reamer is really needed....but would be prohibitivly expensive. The MC hone will have to do.

Posted by: ppickerell Dec 1 2003, 11:10 AM

If you want to stop by my shop in Pleasanton, I can press the bearing in for you.

Posted by: Qarl Dec 1 2003, 12:29 PM

ALSO, do not pound (or even tap) the needle bearings into the trailing arm once you have the steel inserts pressed in.

My steel inserts compressed just slightly out of round on the side of the arm that bolts to the mounting ear.

Like Mike said, do not tap the bearings into place. You will NOT be able to get the steel shaft in the bearings if you do.

I had to ream the ID of the trailing arm it self, and then ream the inside of the steel insert to get the bearing to fit. It should be a tolerance fit. Then locktite into place.

I bought a medium grit 1" drum sander and carefully ground away with my drill on medium speed.

Posted by: Qarl Dec 1 2003, 12:32 PM

Brad,

How come your needle bearing steel shaft looks different?

Mine has screw threads already in the shaft...

Posted by: fiid Dec 1 2003, 12:35 PM

PPickerel, Mueller??

Would one of you guys be available for pressin' on tomorrow or Wednesday night? I'm happy to drive out to Antioch/Pleasanton. Tomorrow I would have to leave the city after about 7:00, or wednesday I can leave at about 5:00.

Thanks so much dudes! You guys rock....

Fiid.

Posted by: ppickerell Dec 1 2003, 12:38 PM

Either evening is fine with me. Pick a day and time and I can do it.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Dec 1 2003, 01:22 PM

Karl,

I installed 3 sets before Mueller was done with his design. My shafts are different (where do you think Mueller got the parts to "dupe" ?


B

Posted by: fiid Dec 1 2003, 03:35 PM

Posted by: ppickerell Dec 1 2003, 07:31 PM

Not sure how to PM . If you have a cell, call me about 15 minutes away from Pleasanton and I will meet you at Peridot. My home phone is 925-426-6797 and my cell is 925-209-3800. There is a downloadable map at www.peridotcorp.com. Do you have a name? My name is Patrick.
Patrick

Posted by: seanery Dec 1 2003, 07:42 PM

click the PM button under his name. It'll send a message to him directly!

Posted by: ChrisReale Dec 1 2003, 09:06 PM

JP-izzle,
A Unibit might help get that hole rounded...? Chech the classic posts thread about suspension ear repair

Posted by: fiid Dec 2 2003, 12:35 PM

Not sure how to PM . If you have a cell, call me about 15 minutes away from Pleasanton and I will meet you at Peridot. My home phone is 925-426-6797 and my cell is 925-209-3800. There is a downloadable map at www.peridotcorp.com. Do you have a name? My name is Patrick.
Patrick

Posted by: ppickerell Dec 2 2003, 04:58 PM

Fiid it is then, see you later tonight.
Patrick

Posted by: fiid Dec 3 2003, 10:55 AM

Hey Patrick,

Thanks again for your time and press last night. Let me know if I can return the favour any time.

Patrick has the coolest toys imaginable, including a machine for making very small and incredably detailed springs, of the type that you lose whenever you take apart a piece of modern consumer electronics.

Very cool.

Posted by: si2t3m Dec 3 2003, 11:42 AM

I've been looking at the polybronze bushings and the needle bearing. ElephantRacing uses a polyurethane bushing on the OD to compensate for the poor fit between the retainer and the bronze bushing. So this got me thinking...

The tube adds stength to the control arm, and seems to be used to take the space between the ID of the control arm and the O.D. of the needle bearing carrier. Could that space be built by making a '' polyurethane bushing'' instead??? Would the result be the same?

Marc-André

Posted by: ppickerell Dec 3 2003, 12:49 PM

Fiid,
You can never have enough toys. Glad to help and looking forward to seeing you on the track next spring.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Dec 3 2003, 01:16 PM

Marc,

The pressed in tube is giving us a constant from side to side so that the bearings are not in bind when you put the inner shaft through them. If you used two seperate pieces on either side... you would lose the constant and have two variables.

Even installing the hard plastic bushings...you sometimes end up with the cross shaft in a bind and have to modify one or both of the bushings.


B