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Posted by: synthesisdv Dec 3 2003, 12:48 PM

Have seen many 914's at the track with the engine sheet metal removed. Makes it easier to work on the engine but things get messy in there real quick. Got me thinking about what else I can take off of the motor to lighten things up.

alternator - my races are less than 30 minutes, can I get rid of the alternator to save weight and drag on the motor? Have seen it done on other cars. (not 914's though)and yes, these guys charge the battery between sessions.

sheet metal around motor - as stated above

cooling flaps and thermostat control - does race motor need this?

big air cleaners on carbs - some guys just run screens on the stacks

anything else I haven't thought of?

thanks,
dave

Posted by: Brad Roberts Dec 3 2003, 12:52 PM

You pretty much nailed how I run a carbed engine.

Several of the guy's I race with have built a full pan that only exposes the velocity stacks of the carbs... then the engine lid gets a sandwhich'd layer of gauze (same thing K+N uses). Basically you have the worlds largest air cleaner (yes they somewhat seal the engine lid down).

Get the electrical down to one tailight and your tach/ignition/fuel pump


B

Posted by: VegasRacer Dec 3 2003, 12:57 PM

As with any change to your race car - check the rule book.
I ran into a PCA Tech Inspector who was very picky about the engine tin.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Dec 3 2003, 12:57 PM

Here are a few shots of what works well (please dont forget to run a ceramic coated header.. this is the ONLY way we can get away with this... the header sends 90% of the heat out the tailpipe compared to the stock heat exchangers.

This is how we would run a production 2.0 race car.

B

Posted by: ArtechnikA Dec 3 2003, 12:58 PM

i agree that's the functional minimum.

however - every time i attend a 'big' event i constantly see CLUELESS spectators in the paddock who are totally oblivious to cars trying to navigate to and from parking, gas pumps, pre-grid ...

i swear - if ever i prepare a dedicated track car, in addition to the bare minimum stuff you've listed, i WILL still run a HORN.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Dec 3 2003, 12:59 PM

And another out of the car.

B

Posted by: Jake Raby Dec 3 2003, 01:02 PM

Ditch the alternator, just use a good reserve battery. The engine sheetmetal can get pretty hairy if you remove the wrong stuff. YOU MUST KEEP THE FLAPS FOR THE THERMOSTAT IN PLACE! If not there is nothing to direct the airflow correctly! I have seen many engines toasted because of this!
You can remove the Thermostat and cable, and ensure the flaps are fully opened. Disconnect the flap on the 3-4 bank and close it completely over the oil cooler! Then use two sheetmetal scres to keep it full down and boost the airflow to the cooler cavity! Many people do not understand how the system works. If that flap does not close all the way,. or if it is gone, the only air that hits the cooler comes from pressure at higher RPM!

Posted by: Brad Roberts Dec 3 2003, 01:02 PM

Ha ha.. Rich.. you are SOOOO right !!

The cars that dont run an alternator dont drive to pit lane.. we use a 4 wheeler to pull them to grid (and make damn sure you take a jump pack with you)


b

Posted by: Brad Roberts Dec 3 2003, 01:04 PM

We close off the oil stock oil cooler area (because we dont run the stock oil cooler)... then we use a cut off flap (from the rod) inside the 1/2 bank to direct the air. I have not done back to back testing.. but we havent lost a engine this way. Am I crazy ?


B

Posted by: synthesisdv Dec 3 2003, 01:47 PM

hey brad,

that motor is a thing of beauty, I would hang it on the wall in the off season.

dr

Posted by: Brad Roberts Dec 3 2003, 02:04 PM

I try and do it "right" every time.. some people like to have nice stuff...some people dont. I try and weed out those who dont and those that do.

B