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Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Mar 13 2003, 10:49 AM

Its FG and sticks up half inch at the cowl. Already removed the springs. Is there any adjustment in/at the hinge to body point? I sure hope so...

Posted by: MarkV Mar 13 2003, 01:38 PM

I had the same problem w/ the rear trunk deck where it meets the engine cover. I put some body shims between the deck & the hinge on the bolt closest to the engine. Only took a couple of shims to fix mine. It stuck up a good 3/8".

Mark

73 2.0

Posted by: BS Chairman Mar 13 2003, 07:05 PM

Korijo,
There are two flat bars each side of blower box with 10mm bolts this rise and lower the cowl. Just a thought

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Mar 13 2003, 10:26 PM

Any other ideas? I know I aint the only one w/ a glass hood

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Mar 20 2003, 08:42 PM

Heres a pic...

Posted by: drew365 Mar 20 2003, 09:16 PM

I've had a hood and trunk lid in the garage for over a month, I'll test fit them this weekend and take a pic to show how they fit.

Posted by: 914gem Mar 20 2003, 09:29 PM

Take a long socket or body hammer and brace under the curve part of your hinge and push down to strighten your hinge a little then readjust the hood gap at the top. I was removing a gas tank with the hood on and pushed the hood up to far and put more curve in my hinges. when I shut the hood the back was up an inch or so. Since you are using fiberglass, apply pressure on top where the hood bolts up to keep from breaking your hood. Removing the springs makes this task a little easer.

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Mar 20 2003, 10:55 PM

QUOTE(914gem @ Mar 20 2003, 07:29 PM)

Take a long socket or body hammer and brace under the curve part of your hinge and push down to strighten your hinge a little then readjust the hood gap at the top. I was removing a gas tank with the hood on and pushed the hood up to far and put more curve in my hinges. when I shut the hood the back was up an inch or so. Since you are using fiberglass, apply pressure on top where the hood bolts up to keep from breaking your hood. Removing the springs makes this task a little easer.

Thanks, I'll try it soon. Springs are already disconnected. I was also considering 4 hood pins and a fuel door

Posted by: Evill Ed Mar 21 2003, 07:03 AM

We have installed alot of AIR fiberglass and Carbon Fibre hoods at the shop. Almost all of the hoods would hit the top threads of the strut insert. It hits one of the support ribs. Look for scratches in the glass in this area. If it hits, cut some of the threads off of the top of the strut.

Also try adjusting the 2 cowl supports that were mentioned previously. You can experiment with shims too, usually a shim under the front bolt on the hinge will bring the rear edge down a bit.

The glass hoods only fit so well, you need to try all the adjustments you can to get the best fit. It will never be as good as a factory hood.

Ed

Posted by: Travis Neff Mar 21 2003, 10:34 AM

Have you recently removed or farted around with your gas tank? If so, probably your tank and accessories are jacked up and preventing the hood from closing all the way

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Mar 21 2003, 01:54 PM

QUOTE(Evill Ed @ Mar 21 2003, 05:03 AM)

We have installed alot of AIR fiberglass and Carbon Fibre hoods at the shop. Almost all of the hoods would hit the top threads of the strut insert. It hits one of the support ribs. Look for scratches in the glass in this area. If it hits, cut some of the threads off of the top of the strut.

Also try adjusting the 2 cowl supports that were mentioned previously. You can experiment with shims too, usually a shim under the front bolt on the hinge will bring the rear edge down a bit.

The glass hoods only fit so well, you need to try all the adjustments you can to get the best fit. It will never be as good as a factory hood.

Ed

Struts are out, so not it. I think its cuz the hood has been sitting so long. Think Im going w/ 4 hood pins. Still undecided tho...

Posted by: Travis Neff Mar 21 2003, 07:36 PM

I see from your previous posts you did have your tank out for a swaybar install. I would still guess that your hood is getting hung up on the gas tank. with those moveable rubber pads you can get your tank sitting too high, even though it looks level. Open your hood and get low in front of the car, look at your bulkhead plane vs. your gastank plane. This is whre you can easily see if your gastank is riding too high

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Mar 21 2003, 09:09 PM

QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Mar 21 2003, 05:36 PM)

I see from your previous posts you did have your tank out for a swaybar install. I would still guess that your hood is getting hung up on the gas tank. with those moveable rubber pads you can get your tank sitting too high, even though it looks level. Open your hood and get low in front of the car, look at your bulkhead plane vs. your gastank plane. This is whre you can easily see if your gastank is riding too high

Forgot to mention, no tank in there

Havent done the bar yet. Just put it all together...

Posted by: Brad Roberts Mar 21 2003, 09:53 PM

There are 2 bolts per side on the hindges. You can loosen them up and move the entire hidge assembly up or down. You have to really stick your head used there to see them. I have had to elongate the holes to get the hidges down far enough.

B

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Mar 22 2003, 12:18 AM

QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Mar 21 2003, 07:53 PM)