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Posted by: tweeter May 1 2007, 11:30 AM

here is what i started with...it was stripped and wouldnt even turn...so i was told to cut the top and bottom off the bolt and the cap would come off, replace cap and bolt...



well i cut the top off the bolt and the cap SPRUNG LOUD as hell up, this thing is under crazy pressure i think, what do i do?

Posted by: rhodyguy May 1 2007, 11:35 AM

did you spray the screw down with pb blaster first? if you don't have any you need to get a can of it. cut both side of the adj screw off and hopefully the bar will pull out with cap attached. then post a want to buy for a cap and screw in the classifieds.

k

Posted by: sww914 May 1 2007, 11:41 AM

Cut the bolt head off now and pry the cap out of there.

Posted by: Brando May 1 2007, 12:18 PM

This might seem silly... But are you doing this with that wheel still on the ground? If so, it will have all that sprung weight of the front end on that bolt. Best to do that with your swaybar disconnected from that side and the wheel off the ground.

Posted by: Dr. Roger May 1 2007, 02:17 PM

that first pic shows it tightened all the way in.

it needs to be turned counter clockwise it think...... Rightey tightey. Lefty loosey.;

way the car ride height like a jacked up 4X4 truck?? =)

Posted by: tweeter May 1 2007, 05:25 PM

QUOTE(Dr. Roger @ May 1 2007, 04:17 PM)

Posted by: rhodyguy May 1 2007, 05:48 PM

can you pull the bar backwards and out with the cap still on?

k

Posted by: SirAndy May 2 2007, 12:08 AM

QUOTE(tweeter @ May 1 2007, 09:30 AM)

Posted by: tweeter May 2 2007, 06:14 AM

QUOTE(SirAndy @ May 2 2007, 02:08 AM)

QUOTE(tweeter @ May 1 2007, 09:30 AM)

here is what i started with...it was stripped and wouldnt even turn...so i was told to cut the top and bottom off the bolt and the cap would come off, replace cap and bolt...

well i cut the top off the bolt and the cap SPRUNG LOUD as hell up, this thing is under crazy pressure i think, what do i do?

doode ... that bolt didn't turn because it was already all the way in ...

all you had to do was unload the wheel (jack car up) and take the bolt out, remove the cap and re-clock it on the torsion bar.

Andy

PS: oh, and

Posted by: Spoke May 2 2007, 10:22 AM

If you've got the bolt cut off the only thing holding the adjuster on is the spline of the torsion bar inside the adjuster is rusted together, and the spline on the far end of the torsion bar is also rusted.

PB Blaster might help loosen the bar from the adjuster. The adjuster should feel loose in its cavity. With no pressure on the torsion bar, you should be able to move the adjuster slightly up, down, left, and right. If it doesn't move around easily, there is still pressure from the torsion bar and it will not come out.

With PB Blaster, you may want to try some heat on the adjuster. Just be careful not to heat the bushing on the A-arm. Do the heat as a last resort.

Spoke

Posted by: rhodyguy May 2 2007, 11:37 AM

if the torsion bar is stuck/rusted in the front of the control arm, here are some options.

1. take off the protective cover where the front of the control arm mounts, and drill a small hole in the center of round disc (pictured) in the front of the control arm. squirt a bunch of pb in there and let it work. it may come out.

2. if #1 doesn't work. spray again, let it work, drill a bigger hole and use a drift or a punch to drive the t-bar backwards. you will have ruined the disc. they should be avail.

k


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Posted by: Eric_Shea May 2 2007, 11:50 AM

I, once again, find myself agreeing with Sasquatch

Here's what I would do first:

1. MAPP torch the crap out of that cap and try to pry it out with the appropriate pry bar. (don't smoke your bushings though...)

2. If that fails I would notch the front cover that Kevins is showing you with a Dremel and a small cut-off wheel. Then stick a flat blade screwdriver in there and pry off that cap. Then get a suitable drift and punch the torsion bar back far enough to get the cap off the other end.

I'd try #1 first because with the torsion bar stuck in the slots, it's affording you a certain amount of leverage to get the cap off if it's rusted. If you heat that adjuster cap it shoudl move with the right pry bar.

Posted by: rhodyguy May 2 2007, 12:21 PM

the beehiver has got some good suggestions. but as he notes, what out with the heat. smoke the rubber bushings, even a little, and you be looking for a new control arm or need to relace the bushings on BOTH control arms. i'd go the torch route as a last resort. don't snap the allen head bolts securing the protective cover. you will be seriously screwed if you do.

k

Posted by: 9146986 May 3 2007, 07:03 AM

Looks to me like you ruined a perfectly good adjuster! You need to read up on the proceedures before jumping in with both feet.