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Posted by: KaptKaos Jul 1 2007, 11:23 PM

Can anyone here tell me if Pelican sells a set of screws for cooling tin? I Have a new-to-me motor and I need to attach the tin.

Thanks in advance.

Posted by: Grimstead Jul 1 2007, 11:35 PM

I don't know about PP but they have them here
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=N1007101
They are here in Corona too.

I'm pretty sure any VW place should have them as well and if you do a search on 'cheesehead' (maybe one or two words), some people were switching them with allen head screws.

Also, there are two different sizes (my bad, I meant lengths) used on the tin but I can't (won't) remember the sizes.



The More You Know....

Posted by: KaptKaos Jul 2 2007, 01:22 AM

Thanks Bill.

We are getting down to the home stretch!

Posted by: KaptKaos Jul 2 2007, 01:24 AM

Next question.

Anyone know who makes and where to buy those thick gaskets for the weber 44 idf manifolds? The ones that go on the head side?

Thanks!

Posted by: McMark Jul 2 2007, 01:36 AM

Tin screws are all the same (6mm x 1.00) although some have been stripped out and enlarged.

The intake gasket is a standard Type IV intake gasket.

Posted by: sean_v8_914 Jul 2 2007, 02:18 AM

where are you in LA? there are MANY VW shops there that sell weber parts and cheese head screws

Posted by: sean_v8_914 Jul 2 2007, 02:26 AM

what is closer, venice, Azuza, long beach, Santa Monica?

Posted by: rhodyguy Jul 2 2007, 08:31 AM

you might consider using the stock fi phenolic gaskets. #022-129-707F for 4 stud heads, #039-129-707 M17 for 3 stud. i run them on my weber setup to help with the heat soak issue. jake offers, or was going to, his own version too. i like the phillips head version of the screws. easier to work with.

fwiw, i use the same locking washers (new), as used on the cv joint bolts, for the head to maniflold and carb to manifold studs. they are the correct size, work great, and don't cut/gall into the aluminum when you tighten them down like cut steel washers do.

k

Posted by: KaptKaos Jul 2 2007, 08:39 AM

Venice. But there is a local bug shop that I can call too. I am in Westchester, just north of LAX.

Posted by: KaptKaos Jul 2 2007, 08:40 AM

Ok, so they are a stock part then, which works just fine. I will check that out. Thanks for the help!

Posted by: Borderline Jul 2 2007, 08:40 AM

I went with hex head screws from OSH. I like being able to put a wrench on em.

Posted by: ruddyboys Jul 2 2007, 08:47 AM

I went to the local ACE Hardware and got metric philips pan head screws for like 8 cents each

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Jul 2 2007, 09:54 AM

Becaust the Weber manifolds are a LOT thicker than the original manifolds, you'll need longer intake manifold studs. BE VERY CAREFUL removing the old studs. They have a nasty habit of taking the threads with them. The Cap'n

Posted by: rhodyguy Jul 2 2007, 10:05 AM

in my case, i did not have to change out the intake studs on the 2.0 fi engine i just installed running the fi gaskets and cb tall manifolds. yrmv. the schnor(?) washers are thin enough that they buy you a little xtra room as compared to thick ass cut washers.

k

Posted by: ptravnic Jul 2 2007, 10:07 AM

I did something similar - bought a box of 50 6mm x 1.0 pitch x 10mm length, and a box of 50 12mm length phillips screws. I dip each screw end in grease b4 putting them in & have had success in removing them (with ease) 5 or 6yrs later.

Some places the 12mm's work better than the 10mm's. For the magnesium, hex heads (of diffrerent lenghts) are my preference but careful not to overtighten (easy to do w/a wrench) - the 6mm threads can't take much torque. hex heads might be nice for replacing all the screws but seems to me a screwdriver is easier to get into some of the areas down the road should you need to remove them w/the engine in the car.

Guess it's a personal preference...

-pt

Posted by: rhodyguy Jul 2 2007, 10:18 AM

when you're buying, get enough new ones for all the heat exchanger to case and heat ducting related tin. the phillips head screws are easier to install than the slotted type when you're laying on your back trying to balance a screw on a screw driver.

k