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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Buick V6 engine/transmission assembly
Posted by: Phoenix-MN Aug 5 2007, 10:50 AM
I have finally mated the engine and transmission together and went through the put together - take apart, put together - take apart process about 5 times to get the throwout bearing free play where I wanted it, I started out with 1 washer under the pivot ball that was about .059" thick and this only had about 1/16" free play at the end of the clutch arm. I ground the washer down to .030" and this resulted in almost 1/2" free play (too much). After several variations I ended up with a washer that was .050" thick and gave me a little less than 1/4" free play. As you can surmise, it doesn't take much to make a large change in the free play movement.
Here's a picture of the assembled engine/transmission, I have a small issue to iron out with the drivers side header before it goes into the car. It's getting closer (but no light at the end of the tunnel yet)
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 5 2007, 09:35 PM
Paul,
Here is a couple picture of the dry fitting of my engine installation. This is to check for all the re- routing of the wiring hydrualic lines, brake lines and water pipes for the radiator and heaters.
Attached image(s)
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 5 2007, 09:37 PM
Paul,
Here is a couple picture of the dry fitting of my engine installation. This is to check for all the re- routing of the wiring hydrualic lines, brake lines and water pipes for the radiator and heaters.
Attached image(s)
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 5 2007, 09:38 PM
Paul,
Here is a couple picture of the dry fitting of my engine installation. This is to check for all the re- routing of the wiring hydrualic lines, brake lines and water pipes for the radiator and heaters.
Attached image(s)
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 5 2007, 09:39 PM
Paul,
Here is a couple picture of the dry fitting of my engine installation. This is to check for all the re- routing of the wiring hydrualic lines, brake lines and water pipes for the radiator and heaters.
Attached image(s)
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 5 2007, 09:40 PM
Paul,
Here is a couple picture of the dry fitting of my engine installation. This is to check for all the re- routing of the wiring hydrualic lines, brake lines and water pipes for the radiator and heaters.
Attached image(s)
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 5 2007, 09:41 PM
Paul,
Here is a couple picture of the dry fitting of my engine installation. This is to check for all the re- routing of the wiring hydrualic lines, brake lines and water pipes for the radiator and heaters.
Attached image(s)
Posted by: GS Guy Aug 6 2007, 06:28 AM
PJ,
Got any close up pics of your clutch slave cylinder mount? That looks pretty slick.
Jeff
Posted by: Phoenix-MN Aug 6 2007, 06:48 AM
Phillip,
It looks like you have your eng/trans mounted an inch or so back (blocks on the transmission mounts). Did you need to do this for clearance of the pulley combination you used on the front of the engine?
Your install looks real nice, can't wait for a report when it fires up.
Paul
Posted by: So.Cal.914 Aug 6 2007, 07:06 AM
Couldn't you get the tape and plug wires to match your paint any closer?
Looks good...
Posted by: iamchappy Aug 6 2007, 07:50 AM
The race is on, lets see if we can get ours done before they have to be put away for the Winter. It will kill me if I have to wait till Spring to finish up, I already feel like I missed out this summer on getting it done. I would never of imagined 3 months ago I would still be working on mine.
Keep going Paul, maybe we will celebrate wrapping these cars up before Winter.
Posted by: Phoenix-MN Aug 6 2007, 09:11 AM
Chappy,
Is it orange yet?
Will I be done before it get cold? Ya right 
One can only hope.
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 6 2007, 09:25 AM
PJ,
Got any close up pics of your clutch slave cylinder mount? That looks pretty slick.
Jeff
Jeff,
I used the original clutch cable bracket. I drilled a hole in it and welded it in.
Attached image(s)
Posted by: iamchappy Aug 6 2007, 09:27 AM
Not Orange yet, but everything on the car is in primer, but one door skin and under the engine lid and hinges, should be in primer by the end of the day. I hope to see Orange this week....."HOPE"!
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 6 2007, 09:29 AM
Phillip,
It looks like you have your eng/trans mounted an inch or so back (blocks on the transmission mounts). Did you need to do this for clearance of the pulley combination you used on the front of the engine?
Your install looks real nice, can't wait for a report when it fires up.
Paul
Paul,
The engine sets back an 1 inch and quarter. This is for the front pulleys to clear the fire wall.
Posted by: dbledsoe Aug 6 2007, 05:30 PM
Phillip,
It looks like you have your eng/trans mounted an inch or so back (blocks on the transmission mounts). Did you need to do this for clearance of the pulley combination you used on the front of the engine?
Your install looks real nice, can't wait for a report when it fires up.
Paul
Paul,
The engine sets back an 1 inch and quarter. This is for the front pulleys to clear the fire wall.
Phillip,
Did you use serpentine type belt and pulleys or V belt? I used V belt (just like Paul's set up in his photo above) on my Buick V6 conversion and didn't have to set the engine back, and I left the sound deadening insulation in place. Makes for a pain to change the belt but I can do it with a bit of grunting, cussing, and questioning of my sanity.
Don
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 6 2007, 06:10 PM
I have finally mated the engine and transmission together and went through the put together - take apart, put together - take apart process about 5 times to get the throwout bearing free play where I wanted it, I started out with 1 washer under the pivot ball that was about .059" thick and this only had about 1/16" free play at the end of the clutch arm. I ground the washer down to .030" and this resulted in almost 1/2" free play (too much). After several variations I ended up with a washer that was .050" thick and gave me a little less than 1/4" free play. As you can surmise, it doesn't take much to make a large change in the free play movement.
Here's a picture of the assembled engine/transmission, I have a small issue to iron out with the drivers side header before it goes into the car. It's getting closer (but no light at the end of the tunnel yet)
Paul,
I have these short headers that I am not going to use. They need to be sand blasted and recoated.
Phillip J. Haun
Oak Harbor, WA.
Attached thumbnail(s)
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 6 2007, 06:21 PM
Phillip,
It looks like you have your eng/trans mounted an inch or so back (blocks on the transmission mounts). Did you need to do this for clearance of the pulley combination you used on the front of the engine?
Your install looks real nice, can't wait for a report when it fires up.
Paul
Paul,
The engine sets back an 1 inch and quarter. This is for the front pulleys to clear the fire wall.
Phillip,
Did you use serpentine type belt and pulleys or V belt? I used V belt (just like Paul's set up in his photo above) on my Buick V6 conversion and didn't have to set the engine back, and I left the sound deadening insulation in place. Makes for a pain to change the belt but I can do it with a bit of grunting, cussing, and questioning of my sanity.
Don
Don,
I am using a "V" Belt. I am using the Orginal Renegade Hybrid Kit from 1990. That was when they where in Califorina and they did kits for the Buick V6 and Chevy V6. In this Kit they moved the engine back an 1 inch an quarter back. I believe they did that due to where they placed the Alternator.
Phillip J. Haun
Oak Harbor, WA.
Posted by: Phoenix-MN Aug 6 2007, 06:33 PM
Phillip,
I got the header issue resolved today with Sanderson Headers, thanks for the offer though.
Paul
Posted by: GS Guy Aug 6 2007, 07:13 PM
PJ,
Got any close up pics of your clutch slave cylinder mount? That looks pretty slick.
Jeff
Jeff,
I used the original clutch cable bracket. I drilled a hole in it and welded it in.
Good thinking! I like the return spring attachment too.
Jeff
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 6 2007, 07:53 PM
Phillip,
I got the header issue resolved today with Sanderson Headers, thanks for the offer though.
Paul
Paul,
If you get a chance I would really like to see some pictures of headers.
Phillip
Posted by: Phoenix-MN Aug 6 2007, 08:39 PM
Here's one side
Posted by: dbledsoe Aug 6 2007, 08:45 PM
Phillip,
That would make sense since as I have found there is but one spot a GM alternator can be mounted (without setting the engine back), and the only commercially available mount to put it there (that I am aware of) is the little known, and expensive, Champion billet machined alternator mount that Paul turned me on to. Even at that the Champion billet alternator mount will only take one type of GM alternator, the GM CS alternator. With that said, the Champion alternator mount is an incredibly beautiful piece of machine work.
Don
Posted by: Phoenix-MN Aug 6 2007, 08:46 PM
Other side
These are Sanderson BS-1 headers but with a catch. They are both passenger side headers 
This gives more clearance for the shift rod between the header and oil pan.
Posted by: JRust Aug 6 2007, 08:51 PM
Hey Phillip, I remember your car from the meet I had at my pizza parlor in Monmouth years ago. That is one sweet ride you have. Good to know you are still around. Hopefully we will see each other at a meet again soon. Sorry to semi hijack the thread- Jamie
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 6 2007, 09:06 PM
Here's one side
Paul,
What is that blue thing on the driver flange on the transmission?
Phillip
Posted by: Phoenix-MN Aug 6 2007, 10:12 PM
That is a aluminum ring that holds 8 magnets for the electronic speedometer.
Posted by: Phoenix-MN Aug 6 2007, 10:17 PM
qwerty
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 6 2007, 11:50 PM
Hey Phillip, I remember your car from the meet I had at my pizza parlor in Monmouth years ago. That is one sweet ride you have. Good to know you are still around. Hopefully we will see each other at a meet again soon. Sorry to semi hijack the thread- Jamie
Jamie,
We had a great time. It's been a long time since we have been at any 914 get togethers. The car has been down for a couple of years . Hope to have the car running by the end of the year.
Phillip
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 6 2007, 11:55 PM
qwerty
Paul,
Where did you get it from?? That is a good idea!!!!
Phillip
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 6 2007, 11:58 PM
qwerty
Paul,
Where did you get it from?? That is a good idea!!!!
Phillip
Paul, Are those 911 CV joints or 914 CV joints???
Phillip
Posted by: Phoenix-MN Aug 7 2007, 07:19 AM
Phillip,
The ring is hand made from a 6" round by 1" thick aluminum round. I did it all with a drill press and hole saws. I am using 914 CV's and the ring fits them "snugly" and uses 2 set screws to hold it in place. The sensor is a Cherry magnetic reed switch MP200701. This drives a stock 78SC electronic speedometer.
Posted by: pjhaun Aug 7 2007, 09:05 AM
Phillip,
The ring is hand made from a 6" round by 1" thick aluminum round. I did it all with a drill press and hole saws. I am using 914 CV's and the ring fits them "snugly" and uses 2 set screws to hold it in place. The sensor is a Cherry magnetic reed switch MP200701. This drives a stock 78SC electronic speedometer.
So!!!, Paul!!!, Could I commission you to make one for me; to fit 911 CV? How much would it cost even with the magnetic switch?
Thank You!!!!
Phillip J. Haun
Oak Harbor, WA.
Posted by: Phoenix-MN Aug 7 2007, 09:31 AM
Phillip,
I would like to be able to say yes but I'm going to have to decline. The ring and sensor seemed to work properly on a bench setup for testing but it has not been proven to work on the "road" yet. I would hate to make and charge someone for a part that ends up not working as intended. It took me many-many hours of hand fab work to make it and I would have to ask way too much money for it. If it does pan out and works properly this part would be a good canidate for a cnc shop to turn out a small run.
Once road tested this could be something that could be marketed to the masses (small 911 and 914 masses that is) that want to switch over to an electric speedometer.
Paul
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