Ok, it's starting, almost all the pieces are in place.
I worked Spring and Summer getting the car all in primer and finishing up the custom valances.
I actually thought this time last year I was suppose to be done.
Here are some photos of the car last week getting towed to the bodyshop, and pictures of how it looked this morning.
Next week I will start to assemble my two and a half years of acumulated stuff back
onto the car and fit the engine.
I will document it with pictures as I go along.
The Completed Car Photos for those who want to skip all 25 pages:
http://homepage.mac.com/davidchapman1/PhotoAlbum26.html
The car is going to be a beauty and a very special 3.1 twin plug turbo powered one at that.
Here are the past links showing the progression and R&D it's taken over the years to get the car to this point.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16348&hl=
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...20carrera&st=60
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...l=turbo+carrera
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...l=turbo+carrera
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=8438&st=0
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Wow that looks great! Having a car that looks that nice will help when sifting through the parts.
Nice color!
Awsome...
Can I stop over next week and see it?
I will be impossible for me at this point to put a dirty or old used part that hasn't been reconditioned back on it.
Here is what is getting put back in.
IAMCHAPPYS PORSCHE 914 6 GT TURBO CARERRA BUILD SHEET
3.12 CIS Turbo Twin-plug engine
Using 1979 SC 3.0 block, crank. rods and heads and cams
91 3.3 turbo pistons and cylinders
Rod pin modification for stroke
ARP rod bolts with 928 nuts
Supertec Head studs
Elgin racing valve springs and retainers
930 turbo oil pump
K27 7200
Spearco 1080 cfm intercooler
Electric automatic temp fan relay switch
Two 7" electric pull fans for intercooler
Transmission cooler
Tilton electric transmission cooler pump
Mark Donahue special edition steering wheel(very rare).
Tekniq quick release steering wheel hub
Terry cables
Custom aluminum intake and pressure side turbo piping
Silicone elbows, hump hoses and reducers
86 930 turbo intake manifold
Euro fuel distributor
Bosch 400 lph racing fuel pump
Tial 46mm wastgate
Tial 50mm BOV
Turbo x boost controller
Adjustable micro pressure switch for 7th injector
7th fuel injector micro fueler (911sc CSV)
Supertech generation 2 - 12 plug conversion distributor
MSD boost retard ignition with rev control
MSD shift light
2 MSD Blaster 2 coils
Magnacore twin plug 12 wires
RSR plug holders
Maganaflow 2.5"in 2.5"out muffler
Custom stainless crossover pipe
Hooker resonator exhaust tip
930 cam driven oil pump
Aeropquip stainless and blue line socketless fuel and oil lines
Fire sleeve
Front mounted oilcooler
Factory 914-6 oil tank
Factory 914-6 engine mount
Factory 914-6 rear stub axles
Front mounted oil cooler with thermostat
Smart Racing oil cooler block off remote oil filter stand
Smart racing on engine Thermostat no bypass
Canton remote oil filter
Canton inline transmission filter
911 front end with aluminum crossmember
951 Turbo brakes calipers front and rear
911 Ebrake modification
New Ebrake cables
Brake bias valve
Carrera solid rotors
Speed bleeders
Porterfield RS-4 brake Pads
23MM master cylinder
Adjustable front swaybar
Rear sway bar (unmounted) for street
2 Set's of 7, 23mm offset 8X16 phone dial wheels
Set of 7, 9 x16 Fuchs
Yokohama es100 225/50/16 , 245/45/16
Contiextremecontacts 225/50/16, 245/50/16
Toyo RA1 225/50/16 , 245/45/16
Adjustable Koni shocks in front
911 gauges
901 side shift trans with Quaife and short gears (M,S,Z)
901 side shift trans stock gearing
914 6 Cv and axles with Dr. Evil safety wired CV bolts
Kennedy stage 2 clutch and pressure plate with starter ring
Shorten shifter
914-6 aluminum plated headers
914-6 factory heat exchangers and heat ducts and diverters
Rear end has been reinforced
Suspension ears reinforced
Engman Interior long reinforcement
Brad Mayeur outer long reinforcement kit
Bilstien shocks adjustable perches in rear
200lbs springs
Turbo tie rods
Steering rack has been lowered for bump steer
camber truss front and rear
Wevo transmission mounts
Autopower Full roll cage( unmounted for street )
2005 Alpine cd mp3 player with 8" Quart subs driven by Alpine T220, Alpine type R 5 1/4 door and 6.5 kick panel speakers driven by Alpine T240 amp.
LED blue gauge bulbs
Gauge trim rings
Halogen headlights.
Euro side maker lamps
Gtech computer
a/r before turbo analog gauge Westberg
vdo boost vacuum gauge
Autometer sport comp boost gauge
Autometer Pro Comp fuel pressure gauge with isolator
Autormeter Pro Comp transmission temp gauge
Autometer Pro Comp volt meter
LM1 analog wide band A/R gauge
gauge pods
Optima yellow deep cell battery
Billet battery holder
Oil breather catch can
993 spare tire cover and tool kit
GT fiberglass flares, rockers, MSDS rear GT valance, and rear spoiler with intercooler duct.
Black Leather upholstered interior
Harness bar
Morsphectra carpet set custom for use with aluminum floor boards
Aluminum floor board driver and passenger
Aluminum pedals
All new chrome trim items
New OEM exterior door handles
New OEM mirrors driver and passenger
New engine lid letters
New ghost reflector rear lens
New windshield
Tow hooks
Modified Gt valance with brake ducts
914 Club badge
Shine racing needle bearings
Chrome fuel door in hood
Lightweight doors with late window regulators and glass
Roll bar vinyl and sail panels
Original car color - Signal Orange Dupont chroma Premier 2 Stage paint
SPA onboard 4L Fire suppression system
Amerex 2.5 Halon fire extinquisher - on custom seat mount
Special thanks to all 914 club members who have contributed and helped me source all of the parts.
Rick 918 s
Camp 914
Engman
Dr. Evil
Qarl
Morphenspectra
John
Neo 914 6
lotus 65
GWN7
spunone
dlee1967
Garold Shaffer
Brad Mayeur
NYchef
MSDS
RacerJerry
Henry Schmidt
-
Supertec
Minnetonka autobody
Johnson Autosports
and a special thanks to Joe Sharp for sending Ollie Narp tees...
Wow Dave! That things looks great in Sig Orange! Can't wait to see it with my own eyes!!!
Looking sweet!
glad to have helped a little...
You are officially "Hooked" and off the deep end now. Glad to see it
I really dig the rear spoiler, looks like LOTS of work went into smoothing it and the flairs, this is going to be one outrageous car. You and 'falcon need to get together and have a 6-cly turbo off
That car is looking fantastic!
Your color choice is perfect!!!
lookin Great so far......can't wait to see further assembly!!
There is something special about a freshly painted 914 shell
I have to catch up on some work today, I re-fabricated my muffler hanger to accommodate a larger wastegate, I now need to do a little welding on it to re-strengthen it.
I sandblast etched into the aluminum intake pipe the Porsche script.
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Here is the engine layout. I have made a few changes since this picture, but it gives you an idea.
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view of tail pipe. Now back to work...
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My friggen good lord man! That is amazing! I am going to watch this thread!
Nice, so far. However, that air filter doesn't look nearly big enough (sq/in of filter material). The Cap'n
Unbelievable!!!!
This is going to be an awesome car!
It's got to be a little scary when you itemize your parts list, just don't attach any $$$ next to it.
You are doing a beautiful job.
Greenie
Cap'n Krusty, the Pelican turbo guys came up with the air filter idea when the
Fabspeeds were selling for around 300.00 RarlyL8 swears by them.
http://www.rarlyl8.com/
These only cost 6 bucks to replace and they work on big 4 barrels, but I will keep
your suggestion in the back of my mind and check it out.
Dave at the bodyshop doing the buffing.
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Jesus H
Simply wonderful.
Perfect color also.
Ron
Wheres Xzibit? Because that's PIMP
Chappy, as always, you are an inspiration!
'Chappy if you've got a little extra room...let me send you one of these filters.
On a new 2007 BMW 335i twin turbo, we made +13 RWHP and +8 RWTQ with this filter (over oe paper element) , and excellent throttle response. I had -0- grille clearence on my biturbo 6 , so I hand built a custom cone filter (real short) and instantly started building boost @ 500 rpm earlier
I've been busy building new prototypes at work for new customers , and tuning junior's 2.0 for track events...but stumbled on your progress thread
I do put about 3 hours a night in on my GTK upgrade (black six) , so when it's done I'll post up the results. Keep up the trick work.
Pic is MSDS filter sys for the '07 335i/ biturbo
peace
Marty
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Marty, when I get that engine in this week I will see what kind of room I have for it.
I finally got the car back home, I am busy pulling the harness back through and installing the defroster vent thingy, Pictures of the fun stuff later tonight.
guess who saw it today...
ME!
it's freaking beautiful, and gonna be one cool-a$$ hotrod.
Progress report.
Because I have had to pull some late nighters to get work done on the car I haven't been able to post as I go along I am always to tired and had to many frosty's . This has been progressing way slower than I expected. How is it that I have parted out 4 914's over the past few years, never thrown away a nut or bolt but am constantly scrambling to find a clean one.
As you can see nothing is going to be put back on the car unless it is in like new condition. I have got the front trunk pulled together now and will work my way to the back of the car. I should go faster now as most of the stuff going back in is cleaned up or new, and ready to go in. The interior progress will post next featuring my reupholstered leather interior and kick ass sound system.
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The rest for now.....
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OMHMFG... that is incredible
Gas filler neck...........
Red, ya - That's the ticket
You were right
Looks great- good work takes time, great work takes more. I am hopeful of having the 914 turbo up and running this weekend. Finally. Hey, what are the flex tubes along the sides of the wheel arches in the front trunk for? And, have you called "Excellence" magazine to schedule your photo shoot yet? Maybe we should gang up on them for a feature article, "Turbos of the mid west!"
Keep up the good, no, great work!
Brake cooling. Just hung the doors and new handles, it's starting to look like a car again.
holy schmokes!!!
keep the pics comin!!!
My camera wont down load now for some reason.....
since you asked about the brake cooling ottox914, here's chappy showing off his custom gt valance. those brakes might get a little air...
Chappy,
You have taken the building of 914's to the highest level. Workmanship & the level of beauty is beyond words.
Your car is beautiful & I love the color with black accents.
Tom
"Wow" thanks for the compliment Blizzy.
Doors are on....I may put the engine in tonight or finish the interior...????
The doors still need a final buffing before the windows and seals go on so I am inclined not to work on the interior but still have plenty of other things to do...
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Chappy,
Did you put a Brad Mayeur outside long kit on? I like the side marker lights as well. I was considering doing the same thing with mine. That car and your work on it is inspiring. It gives me something to aspire to with mine.
I just picked up the hoods and engine lid, so more parts continue to go on.
I did the Brad Mayeur outers and the Engman inners...
Shots of the front hood....
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Where did you source the gas filler door?
Beautiful!
Thanks
Eddie
And does it come wiht a lock?
Ebay fits a Ford f150 or Mustang, yes they have lockable. I may get another as i polished through the chrome a little bit. I plan on replacing it with a polish aluminum one.
I think you should have left it black...
Chappy,
If you installed the Shine needle bearings did you have any tips? I'm debating whether to do this now while the struts are being rebuilt.
Nice work!
CHAPPY:
O.K.,O.K. Stop, you have had to have made a mistake some where.
"Stop now." Box it all up and I will pick it up ,sort thru it to find that mistake.
And promise i will return it to you,soon. Really i will!!!!!
Great job WOW Dave
I am finding it hard to get everything to fit just right on the trunks because the new rubber seals aren't compressed enough, how long do these things take to break down, how did the factory deal with it. I know from past experience that when the door seals go on, the doors can get real tight.
I put the eye brows and headlight covers on today thats about it..
Watching from Denver.
Intercooler duct in rear lid...
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headlight covers on, almost time to move to the rear, this thing needs it's heart.
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I see you have Toyo RA-1s. Those are some great tires. That is what I use for my street tires and rain tires.
You car looks amazing. I wish my car looked half as nice as yours.
The car had a roll bar in it when I purchased it and also had a lot of reinforcing all over it. I bought the car as a rolling chassis from a PCA club racer from San Diego with the intention of converting it into a street car. My original car that I purchased off of the dealers showroom floor in 74 was to much work to restore after using it as a daily driver in Minnesota for over 20 years, but the nice thing about that car was that it was a whole car, and the interior and other parts other than the body were in great shape even the seats and backpad still looked great. So thus, sadly it became a donor.
My engine should lay down over 400hp and I have limited slip in the tranny and nice sized sticky tires. It may be over kill with both especially the Mayeur kit which is really heavy weight, I just wanted to get the car as solid as I could without using the roll bar. I still have the AutoPower roll bar that I can bolt in if I ever wish to do any club track events.
Qarl has been drunk with work, changing it back to black is a bad idea.....
wow that is a truly remarkable car. love the color. i can hardly tell it from mine.
i am honored to be listed as a help with parts. i'm sure the car would have never come out so well without those fake fuchs on your trailer.
She is a beauty Chappy.
Getting busy with the guages, always a mess.....
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Beautiful work! Love a lot of the details, like the rear grille in the spoiler. Nice!
Wow, what a beautiful car. Keep posting pictures please.
Horns on.
Still waiting for my front valance from the body shop to finish the front end off with the bumper.
I didnt get much done on the car last week but expect there to be major movement getting things put together this week, time is running short up here in Minnesota...
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Upper dash, pillar gauges and instrument gauges installed. Yes all those switches go to stuff. Transmission cooler pump, intercooler fans, kill switch, and boost timing retard.
Moving to finish off the lower dash, center console gauges and stereo install and
Engman aluminum pedal and passenger floor boards next.
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Wow, that is a cool dash/ guage set up. I like that you made a racecar setup, but kept it 914.
I think it's about time for our cars to have on board fire systems
Yours @ over 400hp and mine getting tweaked right now (over 550) with high pressure CIS , it's fire season ! I've already replaced 5 fuel lines ( fuel rot) while running my 3.2 biturbo engine since 1995. Some failed lines were aeroquip
Marty
I'm SO glad you have shown such restraint.
Most of my time has been consumed with cleaning things and cleaning up paint overspray on the wiring, I have a whole new respect for the concourse guys, I hate this type of work it has to be the hardest part of this build.
I did a major cleaning up of the wiring and the connectors and simplified some of the hook ups to the gauges and the stereo. The interior can really come together fast now. The lower dash pad will go on after i get the wiring for the A/R gauge finished up.
All of the new cables are in place, and have a little more wiring on my innovate A/R gauge and relocation of the fuel pump to the front cross member.
I moved into the engine bay for a little while and have more wiring to simplify and clean up.
These guys are ready to have a blast!
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Man you sure made short work of that nest of wiring on the floor! Looks good!
Chappy, great project. New to this forum. Do you mind if i ask where you got your 911-style gauges? Absolutely fantastic looking.
The tri gauge is from our members vendor section
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=58970
The gauge rings are from there also
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=52337
The tach is from a 79SC
Had strep throat all week didn't get much done. but I do have the interior tidied up a bit. I will finish off the doors with the winding mechanisms glass, panels and seals.
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It's clear you will be finished before me. Nice work!
Yes right away!
I'll say it again.... INSANE work Chappy
I hate you.
in a good way.
what are all the gauges for?
(triple gauge in the dash, three in the center console, and two on the A-pillar).
This thread was getting boring, I had to do something that was fun on the car today.
Got her feet up in the stirrups.
Legs spread wide.
Time to put the baby in..
Here we go...
Almost in......
I can see the head!....
"Congratulations Mr. Chappy you have a beautiful baby 914-6 GT Turbo Carrera"...
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Total time it took was 22 minutes...
Champy, this car is AMAZING!!!!
No words, Chappy. I got nothin'.
"Awesome and amazing" seems completely inadequate.
Thanks for the pics man. Please keep taking us along for the ride.
No fair!
You put it in with the two side tins removed.
I always fight getting it perfectly centered between the inner rear suspension consoles.
Looks good!
any pics from the rear with it installed? -JON
Nice...
The side tins are left on bolted and folded up to the sides, way easier, I got this down to a science, I bet if I wasn't taking pictures and really tried to rush it I could do it in ten.
I usually have to wrestle it a little getting the transmission bolts it.
My tail pipe extends a few inches out further than I like so that will need to get trimmed back abit.
I will go out and shoot a pic of the rear for ya...
So do you raise the engine up all that way, or do you lower the car down once you get the motor under there?
I typically roll the motor under the car and lower the car down fairly low and then raise the motor up into the car and get the 4 bolts tightened. I then raise the car up off my jack.
I lower the car back down a little bit...
Here are some shots of the rear... and whats inside the trunk..
Now that the tail pipe is in the car I will cut and reweld it to fit properly and I will make the dump pipe for the wastegate while i'm at it.
I just spent over an hour looking for the hose coupler that goes between the oil tank and the line from the oil cooler, hell if i can find it, I last saw it when I painted the oil tank a few months ago, this is going to bug me all weekend while i'm hunting Pheasants.
See you on Monday kids.....
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This makes my 914 look so old and boring.
I feel sorry for those rear tires. They're gonna be toast.
so...how long 'till its on the road? -JON
Nice dinners...
I spent a good part of the day today searching for my oil line to the oil tank with no luck.
I am so pissed, I have found every part to this car so far because I kept everything in order and well marked in ziplocks and plastic bins. Somewhere I lost this when I painted the oil tank, the thing that really bugs me is I saw it not long ago in one of the bins. Anyhow I just purchased a new one so I can get this thing on the road.
I hooked up the cables to the clutch,speedo and gas and adjusted my parking brakes.
Tomorrow I should be able to get back on pace, it wont be long now...
very cool project and great looking car... been following along for awhile now.
Question - are you going to use fans or something on the intercooler? Or how are you going to get air thru it and out the bottom?
Answer to your ?...
I have 2 - 7" fans pulling the air through the intercooler and exits out the bottom of trunk through the transmission cooler. I cool two things at once.
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Had time today to finish the engine lid and mount the new letters.
Another wiring mess to clean up.,,
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Got a few things done today, closing in on getting this thing fired up.
Transmission shifter and CV's all attached, It's going to be a bitch getting those CV bolts safety wired around those HE's.
Starters in and getting the heat control valves hooked up.
I will try to get the fuel lines sorted and attached tomorrow and figure out if I am going to move the battery out of the trunk back to the engine bay.
I am starting to get a little excited.
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what is that red line/wire that looks real close to the turbo in post #109?
k
Thats a vacuum line that runs up to the BOV, I dont have most of the lines tied up or secure yet, that one may move.
Slowed down a bit today I am cleaning up the rear window for installation, and fixing the broken grid for the defogger. I hope to get the sail vinyl on today as well as the door windows.
I am getting sick of all this refurbishing, I did install the rear window today but found my time was again consumed with cleaning parts to install.
I like fabricating stuff, wrenching things and tuning, I hate this cleaning and refurbishing, I would of been further ahead time and money wise if I had just bought everything new.
I am sure the car will be running next week but I cant wait.................I hope to run out of things to do soon...........
Cant wait to see more pics!
Should have left her black.
Qarl are you going to make it up here and chase roooo's with Darla and I.....
I had to fabricate new brackets for the Fuel filter and Accumulator, and mounted the pump. I have the wiring cleaned up and simplified.
I was surprised at what a mess it was, when I fabricated this setup originally I didn't spend much time on the finer things so I have had to spend a bit of time mending and reorganizing the wiring and hoses.
I ate something bad tonight, this is the second time in a week I've gotten something bad from a takeout order, Im going to bed now sick, I will post pictures of my progress tomorrow, there should be much to see again.
I am calling it a night.. made some progress, getting close to finishing up all the engine essentials that will make it come alive!
Next is getting the vinyl on the sides, trim pieces, oil tank and lines, door windows and panels, seat belts, and windshield and trim. Then I think I am all done....
Wait a minute, I have to make a dump pipe for the wastegate, and fix the tail pipe, and finish the rockers and the front valance and put the bumpers on and install the rear hood latch release cable cut down the rear reflector hook up the tail light and licesence plate lights wires and O SHIT FORGET IT , now I'm bummed still a lot to do......
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More, Damn, I sure have made this car complicated, what ever happened to keep it simple!
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I scratched few more things off the to do list today.
I cut and fit the rear ghost reflector, I painted the rear panel black so it filled in the outside edges, it ties into the tail lights better this way. I installed the Engman cable release, cleaned up, buffed, and mounted the bumper.
Tomorrow I plan on hooking up the battery to check on the wiring, finishing up and tightening the fuel lines. And hopefully get the vinyl on.
Once the oil tanks in, I could start this bitch........
I would of taken a better picture of the rear but there was a pile of leaves outside the garage door that would of blown in.
"More later"
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I finished up the fuel lines today and added 4 gallons of gas, and hooked up the battery to check on the electrics.
Good and the bad. There were a few leaks around some of the fuel distributor fittings but a little more tightening fixed that, I pressurized the fuel dizzy and lightly purged the system. I didn't pull the injectors like i have in the past( pretty stupid or just lazy, just lazy made me stupid). I am sure this left fuel in the heads so I turned the engine over by hand a few times to drain the fuel into the exhaust pipes. i will dry it out there.
All the electrics worked great! Even the thermo switch on the intercooler, i heated it up with a heat gun and it kicked on.
The Bad- passenger side parking lights front and rear do not light and it blows the fuse. The gray red wire circuit is the culprit fuse number 6- tomorrow i will check the switches, and the steering column to see if i can find the problem. i know the wires to the front and back lights are hooked up correctly so I can look to the area that lies between them.
Well get it figured out quick. I can't wait to hear how this things goes
I found the shorted wire the other day and all is well. All the electronics work!
I got the vinyl on the roll bar and installed the chrome trim pieces, I am running out of parts to put on the car, this is good...
Windows and seals in the doors and the door panels , inner door seals and top seal., seat belts and the oil tank and the windshield and I am good to go.
I picked up the front valance and rockers from the body shop looks like i am going to have to finish them they have no time. These guys should never take on side jobs and stick to the insurance repairs. There is a bug that has been in their shop for over a year, it's half done, and I know the owner was hoping to drive it this summer, I doubt he will be able to drive it next summer.
I will post pictures of the progress tomorrow.
Sounds like you quit polishing every nut and bolt and started bolting this bitch together. Glad to see the progress!
Bill
No I am still at it, just putting in a lot of time on it now.
Since everyone calls it the turbo monster and we are closing in on Halloween. I decided to give it a transfusion of green blood ( Brad Penn style ). I cranked it over until it had pressure and it started to leak from the open line on the turbo sump.
It is ready to see ignition and the monster will live once again! Maybe Halloween, it seems fitting.
I dont have much more to do, the door panels, windows and windshield, the rockers and valance.
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Amazing work, your SS sills look great.
freakin awesome....
Drivers side door done, finishing touch with the new mirror. Interior is smelling lovely with leather scent. Moving onto the passenger side now.
I still need to find a nice tinted late model passenger side window , otherwise the car will look a little off with a clear one.
I converted my doors to accept the later style winders so my search for a window is on.
After the passenger door is done i still need to get the windshield and trim on and the seatbelts and rear roll bar targa pad and backpad in. the backpad wont go in until the car has been started and timed.
Its killing me not starting it, with one turn of the key it could be alive!
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I'll second that!
Thanks BigKat for the window, I owe you Big(Kat) Time!
Lookin good!
Have you listened to the stereo at all yet???
I am considering mounting a second set of speakers in the OEM location in addition to the ones in my doors, just like you have. I was curious if the sound crossing from 2 speakers so close made a difference vs. clean sound from one pair??
I had the stereo all hooked up before i started the restoration. it sounded great!
there is a lot of control i have with the two amps and the head unit. The cabin is way too small to expect any audiofile quality sound but the 8"subs with the 5.25's and 6.5's fill the car with enough sound that its not a problem on the hyway with the roof off.
Sitting in the car playing around with the separation, bass and treble, sub and faders i can get it to sound damn good.
With all those sweet engine sounds, you won't want to listen to the radio! Unless, you play CD's of 911 turbo sounds.
This is why it takes so damn long to refurbish one of these cars. This is the door outer fuzzy strip and squeegee holder strip. It may take me hours to clean this thing up and install the new fuzzy and squeegee to it.
The passenger door is waiting. So am I.
Bill mentioned a few replies back on how i must of given up on cleaning every nut and bolt to get it together, if you check out the times ive added to the thread you will see i have been putting in long hours to get it done.
I was able to get the targa pad and latches installed today. I need to do a little adjusting now to make the top fit right.
The monster still lies in waiting, Not ready to live yet.....
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Outstanding attention to detail. That's what makes your car so sweet.
Is that a service cover? Where did you get it?
Garold's Mom's service covers are the best! I would be lost without it, I dont worry about scratching a thing while working on the car. I HIGHLY recommend them !!!!
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=44221
I am sure they are great. I am still waiting for him to have two so I can get them. They look very nice.
Set back, I went to the body-shop this morning to pickup my windshield from the glass shop next door, a few months ago the body shop called and said they needed to pay for the glass so I brought them over 500 bucks, this morning the glass shop says they sent the windshield back as it sat there so long without being paid for.
Now i had them order in a new windshield a Plinkerton classic which I need to pay extra to rush ship it so I can have it next week, and now I will have a dispute on my hands with the body shop as he cant remember me paying him.
The body shop owner is sort of a friend of mine, we dont hang out together but we have worked on projects together and we are friendly. Maybe i can get him to finish the rockers and the valance, he was embarrassed when I mentioned i gave him the money to pay for it in front of the glass guys.
I hope it all works out well. That always sucks when that happens.
Patients of a saint Dave. I admire that about you. Personally, Id be ready to BOX! Everyday your getting closer.
While I am waiting for the windshield I might as well finish up the front and rockers.
Interior just waiting for passenger window even the new seatbelt stickers are on.
My cousin Bob says he wants a ride!
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Looking great!!!!!
Where did you get the pedals?
Chappy,
Do you have one of those ride along camera set-ups? Will you give everyone a ride with you when you are done? That would be great.
Bob
i don't think there's any reason to make a poll asking "do you want a ride in chappy's car... yes or no"!
Rockers black, Valance Signal Orange, Bumper is chrome.
I bought the pedals awhile back during a group buy.
Cool. Your car is looking very nice.
Chappy,
If you used Marty’s rear valance did you need to make your left rocker 1” or so longer than the right one?
Bob
Marty says his valance is perfect and I believe him. I went with Marty’s valance as the rear index point for the flares. The Getty rockers I got when lined up on the ground are shorter on the left side by over 1 inch. The right side fits perfect. I centered my flares over 8” 16 factory Fuchs in the front. I have seen a lot of cars that look tight on the left front forward edge. Not saying yours is one of them. Someone showed a very nice black 914 and it was that way.
I am very excited about you finishing your car.
Bob
My flares are not mounted in the factory location, I measured mine against Qarls. Instead they were mounted over the center of the rims which I feel is better as the front flairs on the factory fronts dont give you much room forward for tires and rim options.
your cockpit looks ready for flight
I can relate that fit and finish is very time consuming...
nice work!
Absolutely incredible car.
Chappy...keep your eye open for that BAE orange inlet (air suction) hose at high boost levels. On a recent prototype (BMW 335) we noticed that when we used more than 4 inches of flexible hose (1/4" wall) it ran fine... until over 15 psi boost at anything over 5,000 rpm. It would collapse on itself and actually turn the engine off ! So the kit is only made with mandrel bent 3" tubing, and hose only in short joint sections.
On the MSDS rear valence, our master jig is totally symmetric from L to R and R to L. The parts can only come out of the form this way. The master part was also originally cloned off of an original oe (narrow) rear valence, and formed by myself and a master panel beater. When I installed my rockers, the only supplier was A-I-R. I went thru a dozen sets of rockers and not one set was on the money. I picked the best set, but still needed to cut, fab, and match to my car.
The shop that did my GT fenders does restorations mostly on rare Porsche race cars, 906, 917, 935, 962 , IROCs and GTs. I never asked him where he centers up fenders, proll'y because of his experience and good craftsmanship on GT fender work. Although he did tell me to buy the rockers and fit them BEFORE he would paint them
Marty
Marty I dont know who was responsible for mounting my flares But I am sure your valance is right on, and my flares are off.
Marty what hose are you referring to.
I dont understand it either. My plumbing seems sound to me.
Marty might be thinking about my old setup with the BAE stuff.
Marty your going to push that monster till the damn thing can fly to the moon...
I am finishing up with the little things now, the windshield will go in tomorrow then I should be close to getting it on the road.
Are you two tempting me to try my hand at going turbo as well? I do have a tub that I'm working on, and a 3.3 930 motor sitting around.....
Vey nice I want to here its been started.....
Nice work!
Trying to get that windshield to lay flat, bottom corners want to come up a bit, I have lost feeling in my thumbs trying to compress the Butyl. The glass looks even all the way around, about a 1/4 inch gap.
I am using a heat gun to warm things up a bit, but I have had a really tough go of it, been at it for hours.
I have the Plinkington XXX OEM glass which is suppose to be the best out there.
how far below the clips should it sit. Mine is just below the clips top edge but the glass corners are floating just barely making contact with the Butyl.
i can swing by if you need more thumbs, i'm just about done for the day.
ring my phone if you want help!
paul
From what I've heard windshields are not easy. Maybe it would be worth having it done by a pro, hate to see you crack that windshield. I've got a new one sitting here and I've decided to have it installed by a pro.
Yep... Cracked mine putting it in. Pushed down on the corner and bam... I thought I was being super careful too.
The Pro's will only use Polyurathane. I am heating up the garage to Florida temps use the heat gun and continue on, I know I am close and my even have it good enough.
As we all know these 914's arent perfect I may have compress it a little to much on the top edge so if I can get things warm enough maybe it will rock down a little on the bottom.
Paul I am picking up Ollie from work now, swing by i will be back at around 3:30.
Chappy,
Are you going to have a local "Starting the Beast" party when it's time to fire that thing up? I know we're all anxious to see that thing come alive. Let me know if you need another set of hands as I could run over this evening.
Chuck
Paul came over and we worked it a little, but i am too burnt out to go on tonight.
I need to sleep on it then tomorrow hit it with the heat guns. If I can compress the Butyl another 1/16 of an inch along the bottom edge and half ways up the side pillars I think the windshield will sit down low enough in the corners that the trim will go on without a problem.
The gap all the way around the pillars is a pretty uniform 1/4inch and the windshield doesn't interfere with the clips, there is space between them and the windshield edges. in the lower corners the top edge of the windshield is flush with the top of the clip, this I would like down another 1/16th.
I would hate to remove the windshield and start over as the thing is really centered in there nice. If the Polyurethane allows you to fudge around and set it easier i would of preferred doing it that way to begin with. I felt the reason for using the Butyl in the first place was that was the way the windshield was originally designed to be installed, for reasons of it allowed some give.
Another thing we noticed was the dash to windshield seal may be keeping it from going back enough.
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Just my 2c:
It looks like something is holding up the drivers side lower corner. The butyl does not look like the glass has compressed it. It could be the rubber trim or seal piece between the dash top and the glass.
My memory is a little vague, but the seal between the dash and the glass does not look like the piece I installed . . . it does look like it is holding the glass away from the butyl at the lower edge. I do not remember my piece rolling "under" where it met the glass.
3M makes windshield butyl in different thicknesses. If you end up taking the glass out, see if you can get butyl that is smaller in diameter than the material you used.
the odd thing is the gaps look nice everywhere other than the corners; as if the curvature of the glass is doesn't meet the arc of the car.
i agree, the dash seal is a question, and we discussed it.
also, the heated butyl presses by hand so the corners look closer to correct, but would recoil.
could/should we pull the dash seal and hope to get it re-mounted after putting it all together?
paul
The seal is a Pelican parts aftermarket part it dosent have the steel gripers. I agree with Paul in that the windshield compresses down but recoils back up so the dash seal could be whats pushing it back. I could use a little hook type tool maybe a angled feeler gauge heated up and spread or pull out some of the Butyl to allow more compression.
I used 1/4 inch Butlyl which is what everyone else has been using.
The thing is really close, just a little more and I think ive got it.
Yes that corner is high and is barely contacting the Butyl the last thing I am going to do is try to push that corner down......Craaaack. We will get it tomorrow I will post the results.
How close to the windshield are the side trim pieces? I've never done one with all the trim in (usually have the sides and top out).
I don't think you will be able to bend the glass much (if at all) to fit the opening. You may have to work back to say the center of the windshield at the bottom and all the way down the side. Press gently, but firmly. You are almost there.
I assume that you are using the aluminum trim. You may not notice the differential in glass height with the trim in place.
Good luck.
P.S. The PPG glass that I have installed, fit ok. They may not be CW calibre, but they fit good enough for me.
The PPG glass would of been 200 bucks cheaper for me than the Plinkington, but had heard good things about Plinkington Classic triplex xxx glass as the best out there.
I would hate to try and take it out I will see if I can get it to fit with the Butyl, If I cant then I have no options than to do it over.
FWIW...I just had a PPG windshield installed. The quality is 100% terrible. Unfortunately the bubbles & imperfections weren't visible until AFTER the glass was put in and the tape on the edges was removed. To top it off, I had a car show the next day so I didn't have time to get a new one installed. I figure on Phoenix freeways it should be cracked and replaced in less than a year any who so I am not going to sweat it at this point.
In your car at this point, you are wise to pony up extra cash for better glass.
Oh yeah...ummmmm....your car is insane.
he didn't get ppg glass...
I took the windshield out this morning, do over.....
Ok i had the glass guys out here and we did a dry fit, the Plinkington glass did not fit the lower corners it sat up too high. I lost all the feeling in my thumbs for nothing.
They ordered another Window and a PPG, we will dry fit them all on Monday. What ever fits will get installed by them.
I got my passinger window from BIGKAT today crated up in wood "NICE JOB" I can finish up the passinger door now and putz with other stuff while I wait till Monday.
I will post some pictures later.
SWEET!
Dry fitting a windsheild is scary! good work. Let the glass guys crack em! That way it's their dime!
Windshield is in. wasn't picky i ended up with a PPG with a tint stripe across the top. Not as nice looking as the Plinkington full tint, but it fits!
The old installer was from Belarus, he took care in doing a good job. I think I could of done a few things better if I had done it myself but it's in, the trim fits ok there are a few spots where the windshield is a little low and the trims not flush with the glass where i can peek under it.
Spoke to the engine builder about firing it up and timing it, he says bring it in.
I should have it on the road by the end of the week.
Things i've done since i was waiting for the windshield:
Installed the interior trim back on.(except backpad waiting till after the engine is timed)
Lotus65's mirror, and sun visors.
Rewelded tail pipe to fit and welded wastegate dump pipe.
Safety wired CV's with the evil ones (using a shaky picture for depiction.)
Hooked up heat controls and ducts installed engine heat shroud forced air duct.(may just install one for the other-side and fore go mounting the electric blower.)
Fitted front trunk firewall and cleaned up battery wires
Will start on the rockers and valance tomorrow, then I am done, REALLY!
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mirror...
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I would luv to be there when you pull up to the coffee shop where the lil winky guys hang out! There gonna shit!
can i tag along can i can i can i pleeeeeaaaaasssseee, can i, huh? can i can i, huh?!
Very nice job, I hope that you have an on-board camera for the maiden run.
So I load up the car on the dolly and head out to Johnson Autosports to start the engine and time it. I get there and something is hanging up the dizzy from rotating looks to be my coils, Damn I will have to wait till Monday. I was so hoping to drive the car this weekend.
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That looks like the cockpit of an aircraft! Iffin' Paul hadn't already called shotgun for the first ride . . . .
Again, very, very nice!
Looks like your going to get to use that winter rubber afterall... Snow is a comin!
I moved the coils up to the alternator shroud so I am good to go, I will bring the car in this morning to start it up and time it.
The coils were mounted on my firewall, I never thought of moving them as they fit, well the problem is the twinplug dizzy cap is wider and the engine was spaced down about a 1/2 inch before to accommodate my other induction system, I found the dizzy cap was pinched against the coils bracket and actually cut the rubber boot on one of the plug wires, lucky it didn't crack the cap $$$$. The coils are now in mounted a better place and I may move the electronic ignition over to the drivers side now to make the passenger side less crowded.
I will let everyone know how it goes..
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So does that mean we get to hear results very soon
Well the engine guys think they may have done something wrong with the orientation of the twinplug dizzy and they didn't like the leak down on number 1 when they were trying to get it at tdc..
I left the car with them so they can figure it out.
I am still waiting.....
I am sure that is disheartening. Well, I hope they figure it out quickly.
shows how wise you where to have them fire it up.
good call, they'll get it right.
I'm pacing here... I can't even imagine how your feeling.
What kind of power is expected from this engine?
Im not worried, for one the engine has sat for over a year after it was put together, When priming the injectors the fuel must of washed any oil left in the cylinders from installing the pistons away. The cold start washed even more on cranking to start it today and the rings haven't been sealed yet. The plugs they pulled were wet.
The shop is going to pull the rest of the plugs and squirt some oil in, crank it over and pump up the oil pressure with the fuel pump disconnected, and check the leak down, I think they are wasting there time, i believe everything is ok, but am grateful their wish is to make sure it is.
I have waited this long might as well make sure everything is right.
My big worry is the weather, so far no snow but I am biding my time on that, I want to get some miles on the car before that shit happens....
I can se it now, Ollie and I sitting in the garage in the car drinking a beer listening to the stereo and pretending were driving, while there is 2ft of snow out the door and it's still falling.
Answer to power, around 420hp is expected in relation to other engines with similar builds..
Any news from the engine builder?
Anxiously awaiting
We need a pacing smiley...
I give up they said today but I am still waiting. They must be holding out for the snow.
Spent the day working on the rockers and valance the garage is a mess good thing the car isn't here.
Doing my best imitation of my 12 year old's whiney impatient voice:
Ohhhh come onnnnnnnnn!!!!!!
These guys are trying to figure out why 1 and 3 have bad leak down numbers, if i have to I will drop the motor and have them recheck there work.
I really cant understand nor can they, why the leak down numbers are bad as I am sure they checked them when they built the engine and the things not been started yet.
They started it today and said the engine sounded great. Tomorrow we will re-start again and time it. I did notice some oil leakage from the base of the cylinder and case on the bad leak down cylinder #1. I have to decide weather to break-in the engine and hope everything seals up. When I have to re-adjust the valves, re-check the leak downs and if bad tear it down and fix, or tear it down if the leak down numbers dont improve in #1 and #3 after tomorrow. I think (but I really dont know for sure) that the rings and cylinders really need to seal during break-in for good leak down numbers. The shop thinks everything should seal up but seemed a little worried about it yesterday.
Well, I hope everything goes well. Are you sure everything was torqued to spec? I have heard of people building engines and forgetting to toque the heads properly.
Run it for a day and see how things shake down then have them fix the oil leak at least. You would think if the leak down numbers are off the crank case pressure would increase and that oil leak will get worse.
All torqued correctly using Supertec Head studs. Over on the Bird board they think everything will seal up also.
Chappy, My engine should be back in this weekend. Too bad It's supposed to snow like hell here Saturday. I would be all over a road trip!
The 914 Gods are doing this to us, we must of been naughty, or the cars are scared to death.
no, the 914 gods are scared to death of your cars...
I have been saying it all month, I wont be able to drive my car till there is a foot of snow on the ground. It seems like it will be the case were expecting 8" tomorrow. I will spend the time waiting for the roads to clean up finishing up the final touches to the car, getting the interior backpad in and the 8" sub's, engine lid and latch, paint and install the rockers and valance. There's a few places i need to seam seal and paint on the outerlongs and coat the inner fiberglass flares with truckbed liner and rubberized undercoat to protect them from stone cracks showing through.
I am going to braze a 4AN fitting on this hose for safety reasons. I am running 100psi fuel pressure now, this is a weak link and would hate to fry my car because of it.
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Well I brought the car home and started it up in the driveway Wow the engine sounds great! after getting it off of the dolly I was considering a quick 20 minute drive but the pool of oil under the car told me otherwise. The shop said the oil was leaking from the hardline fitting attached at the case so I believe them. I get the car up on my lift and in order to get to the hard line fitting I must remove the heat exchanger. I remove the HE and spray the oil mess down with some brake cleaner. I am able to tighten the fitting about 1/8 turn more and rush to pick up the wife at work. We pick up take out on the way home and we have dinner and I consume a few Surley Bender beers Yummmmmmm Meeeeee. I decide to call it the night but decided to lower the thermostat in the garage as I walk around the car I notice a pond of green oil under the car. I poke around with the light and find the fitting wasn't leaking but the oil return tube next to #1 cylinder was, the lower green seal was mashed and split. I guess I will have to put one of those collapsable jobbers in now and when I drop the engine for the valve adjustment the shop will find out they owe me a new one.
Sooooo close...
Great to hear it fired up OK. It wouldn't be a 914 if it didn't leak a little oil on your driveway, right?
Sounds like "a big bad dog is mov'in in" and marking his territory!
Awesome build - I'm thinking once you're finally able to fully MASH the GO pedal through the gears it'll all be worthwhile!
Jeff
I just moved the Alien into the workshop as the snow was falling hard. So close...
I knew this was how it was going to play out months ago. I am annoyed that a fresh rebuild would have two boogered up seals in the oil return tubes, I could have the shop make it right but doesn't seem worth it to me to pull the head for that when the collapsable tubes will fix it. I will spend this week finishing up all the little things and first sign of clear weather and dry roads I will be out.
Now I can start working on the snowblower! Maybe I should turbocharge it........
why not? hehe
I replaced the oil return tube, I have the interior finally in, the stereo's all hooked up(nice). filled it with new Brad Penn break in oil and a filter. Got the rear trunk panel in and hooked up the latch and installed the engine lid.
Now I must wait for the roads to be clear and dry, temps falling into the below zero's tonight but looks like a warm up possible next week.
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she'll never be that clean again!
Andy
Oh hell man, you cant drive that car...its too darn purdy to get dirt on! I am dying to know how fast she'll scoot though.....
Your right about that, right now the only thing i have had to use on it is a California duster.
I have to hold out until the snow and road salts have worked of the road, were still in a snow front were expecting a few inches over the weekend. It's full on winter here right now.
What an inspiration to get to back to work on mine. You've done a beautiful job.
Hey Chappy,
Thanks for the pics! That is absolutely beautiful. How is the engine oil leak situation? I assume that it doesn't drip a drop now.
Bill
for an update... b'cause i need to know what's up, i will now...
Update is oil is leaking from the engine in many places. I fixed the oil return tube leak which was the big one, I ran it today till it was fully warmed up and monitored all of the leaks, it's leaking from the base of the cylinders to the case and also looks like from some of the through case bolts. I have been talking to the engine builder to see if they are going to stand behind their work. If they will fix it on their dime I will pull the engine out and strip it down to the longblock for them to repair, hopefully it wont take close to a year to get it back like it took the first time they built it. I feel bad if they have to rebuild half of the engine again. I talked to some of the west coast pros and they acknowledged that if a sealant is not used you run a big risk of things leaking, so they always use a non hardening type sealant like Cural T on the base cylinder gaskets to prevent this.
I have the car completely together and the stereo sounds awesome and everything works. I am still trying to figure out weather i am going to install the fan operated heater blower or just use the engines fan. it feels like the engine fan throws a good amount of heat out of the drivers side thats hooked up to it. I would have to make a duct for the passenger side that wouldn't interfere with the distributor if i go that route.
Oh by the way-The engine sounds great!
man..that just sucks!
I feel you pain man. Pull it and drop it off. With their reputation they should have no problem taking care of the mistake.
BTW: I was talking to Chappy on the phone when he started the car. Very cool sound! Nice growling sound through my phone!
don't leave us hanging man! post a vid!
-JON
geez.
i think they'll stand by their work.
i only hope like chappy says it won't take forever for them to do it.
let me know if you need anything, dave.
The resonator tail pipe surprisingly made a difference it really took the edge off of the noise.
I am going to make a Zork tube that I can swap out when I go to shake up the pinky boys at the coffee shop.
I will be bringing the engine to the shop, there going to fix all of the leaks, There wont be much action on this thread for awhile so I will resurrect it when there is, hopefully in a few months. With my not having to work on the car in my free time I will get back to the house remodeling and start painting again...
Rick we will probably get our cars on the road at the same time after all.
Chap
Further progress to this thread is being transferd here.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=52500&st=280)
I just finished off my trunks today, as much as i liked the trunks without carpet i felt the carpet would help protect them, and since this is a street car and i have everything else finished off luxuriously, this was the last thing to do.
I had four sets of carpets to pick from, this was the heaviest set and had the plastic backing on the rear instead of the foam. I ran them through the washing machine a few times and they cleaned up like new. I cut the rear in half to shape around the intercooler, battery and piping. I used velcro to seam them back together. In the front i repainted the bottom of the masonite board with truck bed liner before restapling the carpet back to it.
See you soon at the late night drinking thread......
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tease.
looks like your motor's back, who knew? is everything good?
i also thought you might call me about my new job... Lisa wants me to show you around and get you interested in the biz, maybe work some dealz.
what else is up?
No I haven't brought the engine it yet, they haven't been able to spare 20 minutes for me to bring it in for them to look at. I dont get it....
I used to do some work for Digigraphics years ago. Paul let me know if you ever need my help or have questions.
The car has been sitting for awhile, i was in Florida last week I got to spend a few days with Qarl, his poor car is frozen in time.
I will try to get the car in to them next week, then i will drop the engine off and wait and see if they get to it within the next couple of years.
CRAP! I spotted this tread popping up again and thought you were back in bizness!
Let us know if you need anything.... You know what I'm sayin...
Kidding
Hey Chap,
Your rear trunk is about as busy as mine!
Bill
Dave uses mostly 3m products, he has switched over to foam pads for the most part but still uses a wool or cotten for heavier compounds sometimes.
Any bodyshop supply store should have what your looking for. Try here
http://www.ketone.com/
Just to make everyone happy maybe i will take it for a spin in the slush and the salty slop. The oil leaks are minimal nothing a can of brake cleaner couldn't clean up...
Or I could wait till Spring!
If you decide to take it out let me know. I'll be right down!
Or not.... Springs not that far away. I think were down to something like 50 days!
The only reason i haven't taken it out is it's not broken in yet I would hate to have to rescuff the cylinders and re ring it if it has to come apart.
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Wow!!!!!!! Nice car!!!!!
Chappy, your car sure is beautiful.
Thanks Lou. This was taken in March 2006 about two years ago it has come a long way. Now back to more of this
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Weather warmed up a bit today but not to much to really mess up the roads, so i loaded up the car and brought it into the shop for them to pinpoint the oil leaks. I will pick it back up early next week drop the engine and haul it back to them to fix hopefully I will have it back by Spring.
Notice the nice salt spray on my Jeep.
Here are a few shots of the shop surrounded by the thoroughbreds.
See all of you that plan on joining me tonight on the late night drinking thread. Im off to pickup more Surley Benders.
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For those who want to know, I took it for a spin out of the driveway and back onto the dolly, it just felt nice to drive it a few hundred feet and the engine sounded soooo good.......
I hope when they see the car they will get how much work you put into making that animal. This should be a real priority for them. I'm glad to see you are moving in the right direction.
Rick, just think of where the car was when you came down and you helped jump start and motivate me in getting it done, i owe you alot, Rick, you are the great 914 friend man guy dude of all time. Please visit me again soon, your the best!
'Eh Chap...check your PM
you have mail !
Marty
i've never seen a 914 fit in so well with those other cars.
don't tell me it's NARP!
Woow! Melikes....
I decided to remove the engine this morning, i stripped it down to the short block, loaded it into the back of the Cherokee, and dropped it off at the shop.
They said they will get right on it.
It took me about 3 hours to remove and strip down the engine so all and all it really wasn't so bad. I am sure it will take a little longer going back in because i will have to freshen up and re-clean all of the parts again.
I cant wait, Spring is in the Wintery air.
I gave them some Benders to try when i brought the car in for them to look at last week. They really like them...it's their new favorite.
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I am stoked for you man! Your really close this time!
bitchin' car
its the final stretch
im sure we are all dying to see that thing tear up the streets
She's beautiful Chappy. Fine work...
Nice mini trail!
Nice 50 Mark.
I talked to the shop today, they are busy getting it back together. They found a small chunk of metal in the sump screen so thought it best to tear it all the way down and take a look. I dont know where this metal is coming from but i hope there is no more surprise chunks still hiding.
They said it shouldn't be to long before it's all done.
I replaced the braided SS fuel lines i had running through the tunnel with Chris's Solid SS lines, I always have a hard time with the hose connections from the lines to the tank. I am considering doing those connections over with the hoses attaching to a coupler instead of going from the lines to the tank. It seems this would make things much easier to get to.
What have you guys done.
Hey Chap,
If you remember I put AN fittings on the tank and ran short loops to the tunel lines. Come on over to look if you like.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=72023&hl=tank+AN
Paul
Maybe I should of used the blue push on fitting hose as it is more bendable than the SS stuff.
I have both, and at one time had the push on fitting blue stuff running down the tunnel.
The SS stuff is so damn stiff when the hose is that short.
I brazed 6AN fittings on my tanks tube fittings.
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I would love to see a full size of that pic!
....I am following and drooling!
Yeah, but you drool anyway Eric
Glad to see this thread is being kept up to date. I can't wait to hear about how this 914 drives!
Hey Chap,
Good to hear the progress report. I suppose it won't be long before you're ripping down Hwy 7 (possibly breaking the speed limit?).
Bill
Speed limit is broken always regardless what car I'm in, UNLESS there is a cop behind me, then i drive like a saint.
I just had a scare a little while ago, a trimmed sheet of Durock cement board slipped out of my hand and knife edged right into the side of my car tearing a hole in the car cover. i swore a lot then i lifted the cover to inspect the damaged -----I lucked out it hit the Euro side maker light just behind the front flare grazed off and left a slight dimple in the clear coat that can be sanded and buffed out. I am amazed that the clear coat is still that soft. I think the Euro marker can even be buffed back to like new, But i had a minor shit fit over it before i had a looksey. I am now drinking a Bender and am going to pick up a Pizza and can the bathroom project till morning.
I did the finishing work on my front valance today and dropped it off at the body shop to get painted.
Good news engine could be ready in a week or so, in the mean time i finished up a few things.
I decided that i would like to have the option of having a roof that i could stow in the trunk just in case i wished to drive around top less, and still be able to secure the car if i went somewhere and had to lock it up and for iffy weather conditions. I will still use the regular top most the time when it is needed, i just wanted a backup top that can come with me.
I had to notch the rear of the top to accommodate the fresh air scoop that feeds the intercooler.
I also finished up fabricating my rear GT valance that i got from Maltese with some grill work .
My bathroom tile project has made a huge mess in the garage keeping the dust off of the car and its parts has been tough.
Back to drinking beer now....
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Keep up the great work. I really like what you have done with the rear valance.
Wow! Just noticed this post now! I love these posts with photos of people and their cars and the hard work they put into them. Thanks for taking the time to do it. Your car is truly amazing!! I am going to be checking in every few days for some updates on it. I got some cool ideas too from you to do on my car as well...thanks and cheers!!
Racers trick, foaming the inside of the fiberglass flares to prevent star cracks from stones.
Also playing around with the idea of making a fire extinguisher mount that moves with the seat.
I think i am going to put in an onboard fire system but will keep the handheld also.
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I made this today for the fire extinguisher. Seat rail mount.
Before i had it mounted on the floor and it sort of got in the way of my manuel trunk release knob.
I will post pictures of it mounted soon.
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Very nice. That's a great idea!
I cant tell you how many jig saw blades i went through to cut it out of that chunk of aluminum, but it was many.
Did that start out as a piece of 3" angle?
3" U channel.
Why "U" channel? Angle not available?
It's scrap that i had laying around from this stair rail project. Which I should be working on instead of the car. I haven't finished my bathroom project either. I have been a bad boy. When the wife asks what i got done today you can bet i wont tell her..... and if i did.
For a long time.
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Nice design. But seriously, get that car finished. I'm hoping to see the final product while I'm still young.
Damn....too late.
Got the bracket done and mounted, and i like it.
Next up, on-board fire system, i ain't gonna let my car burn to death.
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Hi, Is it going to get in the way of your belt? (P-5)
That eye needs to be moved back, it was mounted in the wrong spot by the last owner.
They are suppose to be under the seat area. He raced with it that way but all of the info i have seen on proper mounts for the sub strap show under your butt.
I dont plan on using the 5 point belts unless i change my mind about tracking it.
I am using the CG lock on my stock belt right now.
www.cg-lock.com
lookin Great David!....one of these days i gotta spend some time on the cars....
this is inspiring!
I will have my onboard fire system delivered tomorrow, i plan on installing it on Monday.
This maybe overkill. But these threads convinced me otherwise.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=83444&hl=
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=403204
Stay tuned........
I decide that i will mount the SPA fire bottle in the front trunk I might improve on the mounting bracket i was surprised that it's not that heavy duty. I ran the discharge line down the center tunnel with the SS fuel lines. I will splice in one nozzle under the fuel tank and aim it at the fuel line fittings. I decided not to put any in the cabin i have the hand held Halon mounted on my seat, and if i had too, I would rather discharge that in the interior than the foam.
I will focus the other nozzles in the engine bay with some that will spray the bottom of the engine on both sides, one to spray the fuel pump and fittings the fuel filter and accumulator, and the other nozzles will focus on the fuel distributor, WUR and injectors. I have 6 nozzles to spread out to aim and fire in those locations.
I will mount one cable release in the cabin.
The other cable release is suppose to be mounted on the outside of the car for track workers, I will mount it but not hook it up to the bottle unless i plan on tracking the car( i would hate for some joker to pull it ). It will be in an inconspicuous spot that is easily reached i can mark it's location with a decal if ever needed.
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Chappy,
I think this is a good idea as all the time you have in your car how could it be bad. Have you made sure that your insurance is going to cover your car for a stated value just in case, god for bid something would happen to your car? I hate to bring this up but fire is not the only thing that could happen. Stated valve must be established and proper amounts of insurance should be paid. Both of my Porches are with America Hobbyist Insurance. They give you 2,500 miles a year
I looked up the unit on the Pelican link and it looks a little different than yours. I see that company has a smaller unit that would cover the Engine or one zone, a two zone and a three zone covering the fuel cell. Where are you at with the idea of the electronic master battery cutoff switch of the full pump as shown in the Pelican link?
We are all so excited for you to get your baby finished this summer. This is your year. We have learned a lot of tricks from your assembly thread.
Thank you so much,
Bob
I have an ignition cutoff switch on the dash but I plan on having a fuel pump switch also.
No plans for a master switch at this time. I am running out of space on my dash.
In regards to insurance i am going to shop around for it. Right now i have regular car
insurance, since the cars not on the road yet it will be hard for me to get it appraised,
I dont even know it's value or worth.
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All I had to do with my car was take a picture of it from each side and show them the engine and tell them how much I wanted to insure it for. My car had not run for 17 years. They did not care. The Automobile Club sent me to them. No money. I said $20,000 to start. This was 1.5 years ago. I will increase as work is going along. They agreed.
You could say $40,000. today and deal with a higher number after independent appraisal. If under writing goes with it, and from your pictures they may very well do it. It may cost you $450. A year. I am not saying you car is only worth $40,000. It is just a place to start and it may go in place easy. I am big on insurance. It has covered my ass more than a few times.
Best regards,
Bob
Well i have the system in, i ran out of cable clamps and i will have to wait till the engine is in to figure exactly where to aim the nozzles. I plan on making some light weight nozzle support brackets to finish it off.
I placed 3 nozzles on top and 2 on the bottom. I have one left that could go under the fuel tank at the fittings, but i may not use it.
I put some pressure on the shop to get the engine back together, i will now be a pest about it because i have seen this play out before, when the racing season starts the engine wont get done till October, they have already started racing the past two weekends. Once more he said it should be done in the next two weeks( he started telling me this in February).
My dash is full i am done with things to switch on and off. I have under the covered switches from left to right- LC-1 AF/R calibration button, tranny cooler pump, intercooler fans, boost retard, ignition kill, and fuel pump.
The pushon fittings and tubing worked smoothly and did make things very simple.
I hope i never have to use it, but glad it's there if i ever do.
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nozzle lower
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Stopped into the shop today, my engine is half assembled, cant be to long now...
I am going to keep the rockers and rear valance black but the front GT valance will be the body color.
I had a Orange 914 with stainless steel rockers that i also liked the look of.
The front valance finally got painted today, i cant wait to post pictures of it. i will roll the car out and takes some photo's of it tomorrow.
Could i really be this close to having the car done. Been over 3 years....
Really, Paul, What's taking you so long....Get busy.......I may need to visit....
Chapster... how much was that fire system?
3 Bills
Wow... way cheap.
(Note to self: Add to MUST HAVE list.)
Way to go Edison.....
Chappy, is that a CO2 system? That's pretty rad... At my old work we had a CO2 fire control system in the rooms with the expensive equipment... 0 damage to the electronics/machinery and it smothers the fire. Cool stuff!
I purchase mine from Pegasus, but i have seen them at other sites as well.
I have the SPA Multi-Flo 4L bottle AFFF foam system, I did end up purchasing a separate pull handle because the ones that came with it didn't have a safety pin on the handle.
I could just see someone pulling it saying what's this for.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2426
Ok, i mounted the Valance on the car and rolled it out for some photo's it started to drizzle immediately but i did get some pictures i will post soon.
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Pictures?
Here are some, have to go i got chicken on the grill...
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It's apparent this has been a labor of love, a fantastic commitment to the 914 model and an excellent showcase of your talent, vision, persistance and craftsmanship. Kudos!
Paul
Done eating now time for and the Twins Game...
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So while having my coffee this morning i started playing around with the idea of making some detachable Canards ( dive planes ).
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Someone," Please Save Me From This Insanity Or My Wife Is Gone To Kill Me "........
No, but she owns the house.......
I've never been too keen on Phone-dials, but for some reason, you've managed to make them look great (along with the rest of the car, of course)
the worlds fastest engine install is soon to commence.
I think i will only need to drill one hole in the valance for an aluminum tab and can put a hole plug in it's place when there detached. The other areas i can attach them are on the inside of the fender lip and the gap area between the valance and body.
I tacked the rockers on to see how it all looks together, i think the dive planes look kinda cool and hopefully functional.
I have to get back to the home remodeling this weekend so no more updates on the car till next week, then i should know if my engines ready.
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Spent some time cleaning the garage this weekend, had an opportunity to roll the car out and let it bake in the sun. Photo op....
I put the Fuchs wheels on the car this afternoon and even though they look great, I think I like the Phoners as well, they may even look a little meaner.
I will see about posting some shots of the Fuchs on the car soon.
I will check on my engines progress tomorrow.
On another note the DMV says my collector plates with the personalization - NINE14 are finally done but did say i could change it
for an additional 14 bucks if i was unhappy with it. At the time i settled for NINE14 because the other options i had in mind weren't allowed, but really wasn't to happy about it.
These options are still open if i choose.
TURBOGT
914TRBO
What do you think, Change or leave as is with NINE14.....
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lookin' good chap...
change the plate if you don't like what you picked.
TRBO6GT
YERSLOW
too bad we're not in arizona, you could just try 'till you find a perfect one...
https://servicearizona.com/webapp/vehicle/plates/start.do
I wrote to the MN DMV and they said:
"to allow public access would be a breach of MN state privacy laws."
Engine will be ready next week, now i sit and wait. The car is ready, got the summer shoes on and it even has it's license plate.
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Those Fuchs look sooooo hot Your car is amazing Chappy. If you like the Phone dials so much you could always sell the Fucks to me Looking very nice. Plate looks good to me. I'd keep it at that if it were me. I hope your engine is finished soon. It has been a long time in waiting, but your labor shows very well.
The plate doesn't bother me like i thought it would, and describes what it is.
The plates are a new DLP printing process no raised letters lays really flat.
They sent me two as i only ordered one, one had some black magic marker touch up on the letters.
I guess the prisoners decided to make me another, i must of got a butt brother that takes some pride in his work..
I have a little finishing up work left in the wheel wells as you can see ( i ran out of undercoating ) other than that it's ready to go.
I have another set of Phone Dials with new ES 100's 225/50/16 and 245/45/16's on 7's and 8's for sale, I decided i dont need three sets of tires. I was holding on to them so i could extend the life of the RA-1's that are on the Fuchs but with the set of Phoners i have in the pictures above with Conti's on them i am set.
If anyones interested PM me.
This is one of those cars that when someone checks it out they'll be droolin' at the outside, but when you open the engine bay lid you'll hear softly and respectfully.......holy shit!
I think this is my favorite 914. BTW, the license plate is perfect for all those people who will try to catch up just to read it. Too bad you couldn't get one that said: NOTCONTAGIOUS
translation: you can't catch me
Can't wait to hear the drive report.
Thanks Marc, Ollie and I getting tired of just sitting in it making varoom sounds, a driving report will be on it's way soon. I may break the engine in on the dyno and get it tuned right before it hits the road but then maybe not, i may not have enough self control......
Man that is awesome Chappy, your car is definetly one I must see in person one of these days!
I am happy - for you Chappy,
because you have - a real nice car ...
I hope you get your motor soon,
because without one - you ain't going far
Looks good! Keep up the good work!
I should have my engine back tomorrow. It will be a scramble but i am hoping to drive it to the Porsche show on Sunday the 29th.
ArtechnikA (Rich) will be in town for an art show so we plan on hooking up.
Waiting with bait breath... We're all anxious with you.
Chappy, Where's the show! Maybe I can come down!
Roseville, go to the nordstern site they have all the info
Central Park West, 2555 Dale Street North, Roseville.
6/29/2008
http://www.nordstern.org/EventID.asp?EventID=38
I just wheeled the engine into the garage, Yahoo!, I will assemble the top half of the engine and install the clutch, attach the transmission, and install the engine tonight. Too bad i dont have a live cam out in the shop you guys could help keep me company.
Tomorrow i will tow it back down to the shop to start it and retime. If all goes well i will be driving to break it in over the weekend....
Are you done yet?
Are you done yet?
Are you done yet?
Smack!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Are you done yet?
Flinch.
Seriously looking good and I'm both happy for you and quite jealous.
Just had dinner, and am getting started right now.
Weather is turning to crap for Friday. I'm with you in spirit buddy!
Im calling i quits for the night the engine is all ready to go in, i will get it done in the morn.
i was about to shut off the lights and i said screw it. THE ENGINE IS IN!
lol...you are addicted!....now if someone could just help me get motivated to put my 3.2l in. The engine bay is empty...the six is sitting on the floor.
Soooooooooooo..........does it run? I can't sit here all day hitting the refresh button you know. By now you should have worn out a set of rubber. We need details, pictures, arrest reports.
I talked to Chappy on the phone. He's taken his time. It will run soon.
Rich
Im dunkeling around on it still, I made some changes to the scavenge hard line that runs from the tank to the side of the case. I wanted to put an inline oil filter in there so i brazed some AN12 fittings to the sections that i cut out of the hard line and am running some SS hose to those fittings to put it back together.
I should have it started tomorrow and i am hoping for the best. I will shoot you some pictures of it after i have some Benders.
I hit a few snags, but i am real close, i should be able to start the car tomorrow.
i've been out of town doing this...
i don't have anything to toast you with, but...
i'll be lurking tomorrow. heads up~
NO START!, but it's pretty tough to do without help, i cant crank and look, and do stuff at the same time. She wont stay lit just stumbles along with the starter. I will tow it over to the shop this week and have them time it since that is what it appears to be, sounds just like it did before when they had the dizzy clocked 180º out.
Big disappointment no 914's at the car show today. But i did get to meet Rich and Joy (Artechnica)
Rich you and Joy have a safe journey home.
I stopped into the art show and checked it out, pretty cool keep up the good work.
Bill the owner of the White Sheridan car you saw just left from my house a while ago
LS6 chev v8 520hp.
I am pretty sure the dizzy is clocked 180º out again, because when it was showing me the distributor and how it was mark he explained that he lined the notch up with the #1 on the cap, and it struck me funny because that was the problem last time because it is a special made 12 plug distributor using the SC distributor. The #1a is opposite of the #1b by the notch.
Mark is on the crankshaft pulley on the 930 engine.
If you think it's 180 out and you don't feel like pulling the dizzy couldn't you just reinstall the plug wires accordingly?
I dont think so, at least thats what the guys in the shop had to do last time. all i know is the wires on the cap weren't touched and all the wires are clearly labeled and are where they should be.
If you and Joy ever make it back here again you have to check out my messy art studio and collection of vintage airbrushes, I may be able to show you a trick or two.
Here is a painting i did of that 959 i told you about the image was about 3 x 9.
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Heres another. This miniature measured about 3x4"
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Ok, Chap, the suspension is killing me. What's up with timing on the motor? If your shop guys are dragging their feet, might want to toss it out there to the pelican 930 board.
The car has sat there since last Monday, who knows, they sure have a lot of race
cars in the shop, hopefully this week. I've kinda given up......
I'm not askin.. I just have my fingers crossed for ya buddy.
The thing is i know i wouldn't have any trouble firing it up and timing it myself, but if something isn't right, and the engine goes tinkle, it's my word against theirs.
I have put many an engine in cars without problems, I just have never spent this kind of money on an engine, if somethings not right, i dont want to take the fall because the builder wasn't there to start it and check it out.
So i wait...........and wait........and wait...................................................................
Two men on on the same journey. I search of site and sound. The smell of unspent fuel and the feeling of raw power at the blip of the throttle. Always reaching for their goals and sparing no expense. Is this a vist to ground hogs day or a trip to the twilight zone....
I think i will finish my beer now and go to bed and dream about it....
If you clock radio is playing "I got you Babe" By Sonny and Cher in the morning your screwed!
No Groundhog day for Chappy
I feel you chap. I am going through the same thing getting the EFI sorted on my 930... you are at these guys mercy when i comes down to it. Hang in there, you'll be on the road before you know it. Hopefully will be there some day with my 914 as am working on the build using the expertise of an old porsche race mech in sweden getting 350+hp out of his 2.7(!) using 928 fuel head. The pix is his motor.
If he's not using it, you think i can borrow it for awhile.
LOL! I'll ask... shipping from Sweden cant be more than it is from coast to coast these days
chappy,
I just read this thread from start to finish - wow, man, great job!
I can't wait to read the it runs and I'm driving it post!
I went and picked the car up at the shop today. Their semi was stuffed full of race cars off to Road America, they wont be back till the middle of next week, so i decided not to wait for them any longer. In my haste to get my car going this afternoon when removing the distributor cap so i could re-situate the distributor correctly i got the flat blade screw driver between the screw and the cap and pop, i have a new cap on the way, these 12-plug caps are not cheap and i am so PO at myself for doing it. The back side screw in the distributor is a blind one so i know that it was an easy screw up i just wish i hadn't. I would be braking it in on the road right now. Looks like it will be next week after all.
Chap, it does sound like a dizzy problem. I've found that unlike a N/A engine that will backfire thru the intakes when 180 off>> a forced induction engine will have a more subdued sound. While someone cranks it, listen near the intercooler/ intake area for sounds similar to a puppy barking...that's what it will sound like when 180 off. It will also try to lite while cranking...but won't. Hopefully, your engine shop didn't cross any of the yellow (ign.)wires while the engine was out, CIS has a few extra cold start items activated during crank duties. Lastly, check TDC to #1 on the rotor for the possibility for being a tooth off. That might put your dizzy up against the engine case in a different place altogether.
Marty
Thats what i did was to try to move the dizzy one tooth to move the rotor just before the notch on the distributor. i found the rotor was aligned even or a hair past the notch but one tooth seems to of moved it about 1/2" or so advanced of the notch or number one on the cap do you think that sounds right? Or do you think i went two teeth, I have had it in and out many times and come up with the same results as to the final position.
I dont have the new cap yet so i guess i have to wait to see....
The guys from the shop were thinking they may of set the rotor thinking it spins clockwise where it really spins counter clockwise.
Ok here is the latest, I received my new distributor cap courtesy of Henry at Supertec ( Henry is the best, if i ever need an engine done again i will send it to him!)
No start.........? I still have worries of crap hiding in my oil system so i decided once and for all to eliminate some of the items in question like the on engine oil cooler, i have a Jerry Woods Smart Racing oil cooler stand block off with oil filter and a non bypass thermostat to replace the on engine oil cooler and stock thermostat, i also added a Canton remote oil filter on the hardline pressure side out of the engine. The front oil cooler will do all the work and i am adding fans with thermo switch to it to help while the car is not moving.
With 3 oil filters plumbed into the system at different sections of the oil circuit i am not going to worry about it anymore. i may put a 140 micron filter into the Canton remote so i dont restrict anything to much.
The guys at the shop promised me they will fire it up for me this week. So i will tow it back there tomorrow. No more dinking around this time i gotta get this on the road once and for all...........
Now back to that POS 924S i picked up the other day for my kid......
I drained the oil again and removed the on engine oilcooler to get ready for the block off adapter. I need to fabricate a air shield to seal up with the cowling now.
I have the car ready again , i mounted the Smart racing on engine oil filter in place of the oil cooler and its ready to go sometime this week i am heading to the shop with the car again.
In the mean time i have been working on the 924s i picked up for my son for 2000 bucks. The oil seals failed and put oil in the coolant system, after removing the oil cooler it was obvious why it failed, the last mechanic that installed new seals put the shims in on the wrong side of the oil cooler.
I went to the dealership and another shop and got all the service records on the car from the past two years, totals of the repairs 6,900! Some of the repairs were done as insurance measures right when the car was purchased, basically the PO told the service dept. at the dealership to take care of all the things to make the car nice for his son, and they did.... Unfortunately the oil cooler seals were the only thing not done.....
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that looks like a nice car!
PO had he main seals done so thats a good thing.
I was told run a cup of some liquid laundry soap with the first flush.
You wouldn't believe the list of things that has been done to this car recently.
There is 10,000 on the timing belt but i dont think it was ever re-tensioned.
The new recommendation now says 45,000 miles on replacing the timing belt, i dont think i will wait that long.
Glad to hear you have the problem handled. Nice car
Well after repeated tries last week to contact the shop and this morning, I went out hooked my timing light up to the engine re-orientated the dizzy till it found the crankshaft mark, found it was 1 tooth off, the opposite of what they thought .
looked her down and fired it right up, the good is the engine sounds great and is leak free, it took awhile to burn the oily residue shit out of the system from all of the previous oil leak messes, but once it did the exhaust blows clear. I ran it per spec at 2000 rpms for about 20 minutes and i will dump the oil, refill and after she has cooled down i get to go out and drive it.
Sweet
Ok, your 20 minutes are up. How did it go? Very nice I hope.
I had to run out and pick up another case of break in oil, then had to go to work. I want to wait till late evening to drive it so i can break it in right without traffic worries.
I'm so stoked to see this post! I'm coming down maybe next week to pick up a 928 block! I'll be over!
Car is very scary, even trying to drive it careful was very difficult for me. I am sure i will get used to in time, but feel i need a few more gears.
I had a hard time looking at the gauges and when i was i didn't like what i saw, I was boosting way higher than what i should of been since i set it lower for the break in.
I couldn't hear the BOV let go either. Everything is hooked up the way it always has been, and double checking it i find nothing in the wrong order. I will turn back my MBC further to see if that helps things.
I was at 14lbs in a snap. not sure of the A/R's but when i did look they were on the leaner side of my comfort zone.
The BAD news now, engine is leaking oil from the same areas as it was before, this sucks so bad, the shop has wasted so much time getting the engine built the first time and the second time now, i have waited over a year and a half for this engine to
get built right and it looks like i am back to square one. I could drive it sparingly for awhile and mop it up after every drive, or i pull the engine and ship it out to Henry at Supertec to fix right and hope i get it back to enjoy the Fall season.
Anyhow it was fun driving the car but am very disappointed with the shop guys right now.
I am going to drink a few Benders now......
At least you got to take it out. I feel your pain buddy. Is the oil coming from the area you mentioned shere the return fitting connects on the block?
No it appears to be leaking at the heads and cylinder base to case. Its wet but not really dripping that much. i would say that left overnight i might find a quarter sized
spot on the floor in a few places. In a short time it will probably get worse. For now i am going to drive it a little, turn the MBC back to zero and go from there.
The guys at the shop really have let me down in not being able to get the engine sealed up I will talk to them about it but i dont expect much. He told me if it doesn't seal up this time it's because of the parts and there wasn't much he could do about it.
The damn thing is way more powerful than it was before and i was having to baby it just to hold on. The rear end push is crazy and how the hell are you suppose to keep the RPM"S down around 4 and 5 thousand when the thing jumps there in milliseconds, I found myself having to push in the clutch and letting off the gas.
I definitely gave it the MotoMan break in drive technique.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Are you ready to try Yamabond? Worked for me... That car sounds scary fast!
I think i have the Boost issue resolved. I use to run a 4lb spring in my old wastegate and had my MBC set at 8lbs and my new one has a 10lb spring. i didn't reset the MBC so that accounted for that!
I set my pressure for the 7th injector down to 10lbs. i shouldn't really even need it
because my fuel distributor can handle the fueling without it. I had had it set up over 14lbs in case of accidental boost creep.
I also adjusted the boost retard down a bit to better control the power during break in.
I need to re-calibrate my LC A/R sensor before i trust the readings i was getting last night.
After i get a few miles on it i am going to drop the engine to adjust the valves and fix the leaks myself.....
My initial impressions of driving this car is be very careful and lots of respect, the RPM'S jump so fast
It felt like i was in 3rd when i was in 5th and i had to keep checking because i couldn't believe i ran out of 5th gear that fast even taking it easy.
Ollie doesn't know i drove the car last night and i plan on picking him up from work tomorrow in it. If you guys could only see his face when he sees me pull up.
I wish I could be a fly on the wall when you show up to pick up Ollie!
Where's it leaking? Was the engine slapped together without sealant, or what? I'd push for some dirko or yamabond/threebond. Never put an engine together without it.
I just got back from driving the car for about 45 minutes, the leaking appears to come from someplace higher than the cylinder base gaskets, before the base gaskets leaked all the time even when sitting. I dont think they are leaking from there like before, the engine wasn't terribly oily but was still wet but it didn't take much to clean up.
A/R's look good now, Boost wastegate was letting go as it should the BOV was letting go as it should. i did dial back the timing with the boost retard but the car was dragging so i put it back to 0 again. It is very hard to keep the RPM's down the below 5000 when the boost hits, i was able to keep things around 4000 most of the time going up and down the RPM scale pulled a few times over 5 and once it jumped to 6400, i couldn't stop it.
The car was running on the hot side most of the time, it sat around 240 and would come down to 210 but the boost was heating things up as i was accelerating and coasting on and off the whole time. I am waiting for my front oil-cooler fans and the temp today is around 90 so i dont think i am going to worry to much about it at this time.
I am having fun, but these first outings are always nerve wracking worrying about everything.
i didn't know, thanks for sharing....
Ollie was more than a little excited. As i Am.......
Rich look here for all the answers.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=284737
Three bond 1104
I really like driving the car again! This is FUN!!!!!
I plan on dropping the engine to do the valve adjustment when i get a few more miles on it then i will try to seal everything up better myself if i can do it without tearing it apart.
I will work on a video for you guys but i still haven't pulled the engine to red line yet...
Thanks for the info, the engine has not been running over 210 the last few times i have had it out, I have a 7th injector enriching the fuel on boost so my A/Rs are rich enough now to redline it. I will go out and start driving it like it is meant to be driven. I just wanted to be a little cautious.
I have to address getting clear stone guard film for the car. The few times i have had it out i have picked up some chips on the rear flares. The wide sticky RA1's on the front i am sure are the culprit.
I am getting an estimate from a shop near by to do the front edges of the flares the valance, headlight covers and hood.
I hope you are looking into Venture Shield. it is the best clear protector out there.
The shop i called in the neighborhood does the 3m product. i will check to see if there is anyone in the area that installs that also. thanks!
I just found an installer of the VENTURE SHIELD so close that i could push my car there.
My paint isn't nice enough to care but once it is I will be doing that too.
I'm a little late, but: Big time congrats on lighting the candle Chappy.
Now, fix your little problems and drive the hell out of it.
Well after getting to drive he car a bit now i think i have the oil leak locations pinned down to the thru case bolts and head stud fastener area, So i used a little spray seal on the through case bolts to see if will slow things down some, until i get it fixed properly.
My stage 2 pressure plate wont completely hold on blast off it slips a little but that may not be a bad thing because i am running a 901 box still, the slipping may help with the torque overload.
I am also putting the headers back on to see if it will help in the mid top range. i think
the stock HE's may be restricting it some. When it gets cold up here i will put the HE's back on at the sacrifice of a little performance for heat.
The car is a blast and everywhere i go it draws a crowd, even the Porsche snobs at the coffee shop and the dealership had to succumb to the coolness factor and were wowed.
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Man, you really did do a nice finishing job on that car I bet it does draw attention and is that nice pat-on-the-back after so much work
Be careful about the slipping clutch as a fail-safe... it is easy to "blue" a disk and then it won't grip for crap after that. Essentially you cook the outer surface of the organic disk nice and hard, so instead of having a soft, grippy interface it will not grab.
It is similar to the problems with kevlar disks - they are so hard they wear really well but slip much easier than an organic disk due to the harder surface (at least that is my understanding why they don't grip as well).
Hi Chappy,
Your car is beautiful You did the 914-world good, I can't wait to see in in the flesh.
I want to grow up to be just like you Chappy or Steve in FL.
Tom
Blizzy from what Qarl has told me about your car, yours is close to perfection...
The spray seal worked on the through case bolts on the bottom that i can get to.
Now just a little leaking from above, which i can assume are also the through case bolts under the shroud i cant get to now. When i drop the engine to do the valves i will see if i can get those sealed as well. So i consider this a small victory.
I removed the stock HE's and installed the headers and i was right, the HE's were restricting the engine from around 4200 up. The headers made a huge difference it pulls strong now no lag just hold on.
I received my oil temp fan switch for the front mounted oil cooler so i am about to install and wire that in, and i picked up some front slotted and drilled rotors for the bling effect. The solid rotors on the front are basically new and i know the slotted drilled are more for the bling than anything but i got such a great deal on them i couldn't pass them up.
More pictures will come soon.
If you ever dare drive that screamer in the rain, you will like the slotted rotors...
Your thru bolts should have an O ring (one use) under each nut & bolt head. I've never seen one leak. Easy enuff to check.......
I am sure the engine builder put the o-rings in there, but everything i have read says a little rtv should also be used on the washer that cups the o-ring. i was able to stop the leaking from the bottom ones with the Permatex spray stuff...
No sealer except silicone *grease* to lube the O ring.....it has to move.
Curious , Is it leaking on the Bolt Head side or the Nut side or both ?
Both...
Chappy, you might want to check out GHL headers with heat. I bought them direct (they are in arizona)...great guys to work with and a really excellent finished product. They have 1 3/4 and 1 5/8 diameter systems. Mine isn't installed yet (trying to get motivated to start the 3.2l install)....here is a pic:
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I will sacrifice some performance and use my stock HE's when things start chilling up here but getting a new large diameter tube set has crossed my mine.
To answer your question about the Yamabond/threebond... best way is either with a razor blade in the solvent tank (careful not to gouge those critical surfaces!) or by taking it to the machinist when they align-bore it and true the mating surfaces.
Of course, the idea of rebuilding and blueprinting an engine, then using the sealants mentioned, is that it should not have to come back apart any time soon.
At the shop i worked at, we had a real problem... We'd do an engine rebuild -- they ran so good and never leaked, we'd never see the owner nor car except for oil changes and regular maintenance.
Sunday, Paul aka (Lotus-65) was over and we attempted to shoot a video of my car running through the gears, I made up a camera hat so the camera was mounted on the bill of my cap, this was so i could look at the gauges to analyze the A/R's and boost on replay and Paul had a hand held video cam to catch the ride.
All i can say is we are both idiots, in my attempts to start my hat cam, i kept turning it off instead of on and Paul shot the entire time in the infrared mode. so we have nothing to show you....
I will try again......
I did it again, i am a complete idiot . i just went and made two full out heart stopping gear shifting runs and had the camera off while doing it and had it on the whole time the things sitting on the center cushion.....
....and , TAKE..........3.........
Here it is all i've got to show you.
http://homepage.mac.com/davidchapman1/iMovieTheater23.html
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All that comes to mind is: "ready when you are, C.B."
Side note- while my turbo 914 is not as perfect or brutal as yours, as an auto cross weapon its doing just fine. In yesterdays event I finished 3rd. Overall. Out of 106 drivers. The cars that beat me came and went in trailers, each had over 300 hp, and 2x the tire.
If you ever want to make a point of how fast a 914 really is, I'd be happy to drive yours at an auto cross...
All the anxiety i had to go through and the risk of going over 120 twice on the highway at 1PM is hurting my odds of getting away with it.
My last run i had a Carrera S come up on my rear and i slowed down to about 20 on the entrance ramp and waited for the traffic to pass to give us an open shot. When i glanced back he was a very tiny car in the rear view mirror. He exited when i did but turned the opposite way.
I'm glad Darla enjoyed it.
Darla, enjoys humping my leg, she is still a little unsure of turbo car rides...
Ok, here is the video Paul shot in the infared mode. I just replayed it and laughed so hard, i decided to let all of you poke some fun at us.
http://homepage.mac.com/davidchapman1/iMovieTheater24.html
Is that what's known as 'white noise'?
Car sounds as good as it looks......sweet.
The out of sync audio seems to add to the humor of it all.
the combination of the shame of my video ineptitude and the absolute thrill of rocketing cross the face of the earth at warp-fricken-speed is mind bending.
as bad as that vid is, chappy's car is beyond amazing.
I got out and did another video today with my dog Darla, this one is better, i figured out how to turn it on....
http://homepage.mac.com/davidchapman1/Twits/iMovieTheater25.html
The clutch did not hold well today, on one run that i didn't video it slipped 5th real bad and i pulled some higher RPM's than i was comfortable with and got kinda scared.
This is the first time i have been able to analyze the A/R's and the Boost (hat cam worked), the top pillar gauge is my A/R and the bottom one the Boost the shift light is set at 6000 and i usually shift it around 6400, Boost looked good came up to around 14lbs
at the highest threshold, the A/R/s are all over the place. On WOT the mixture goes way rich down to 10 and the engine lags abit, then moves up to around 12 where it should be but i can see it climbed up towards 13 which is getting a bit leaner than i want, a flat 12 on boost would be optimal.
I can see the gauges great on my video capture because it is full screen and uncompressed.
I wish we had captured that run with Paul the other day in the infrared Twit video because the clutch held pretty good but what you can see, is how fast i run out of gears, i see the end of 5th so fast that i am always digging for an extra gear. It's hard to just let off of the gas when your out of gear and at redline. The good thing is that it limits me to a reasonable but insane speed. I really dont want to go 180 in this thing.
Two things i need to do:
A- Send my WUR out to Brian Leask and have him pre adjust it and make adjustable to my engine mods to help even out the A/R's.
http://members.cox.net/930wur/
B - Or get the new digital WUR for a few more $ and tune it with the laptop.
http://www.unwiredtools.com/utcis.html#UTCIS
C- Need to step up to a Kennedy Stage 3 pressure plate.
http://www.kennedyeng.com/porsc_pp.htm
Very cool!
I can turn the boost back down to around 10lbs and the clutch should hold but thats no fun...
Do i need it to go more than 120? I dont plan on racing the thing, i imagine it goes close to 140, i haven't peeked at the speedo. i will have to set up the lap cam for that or teach Darla to film it, I am sure she could do as well as Paul and I.
As you can see i pick my spots, the one in the video is a free lane that runs right up to that exit. I dont want to get in the habit of doing this, but for the time being until i
get everything sorted out i may have to make a few short lived hammer down runs.
Even with the boost down to 10 the car is still plenty fast, just not as fast......
Not only am i worried about getting a ticket but i cant get Darla to wear her seatbelt.
Just read the whole thread. I am in awe.
I am going to try and embed this slide show of my gauges behavior. i imposed the gauge faces so you can get an idea of the numbered markings.
[http://de.youtube.com/watch?v=lVkoFgdHKcc
Your car sounds exactly like my brother's '76 911 with a 3.0SC in it with B&B headers that exhaust note when you start in 3rd is just flat out amazing! I love your car
-Chris
without going thru the thread (lazy) are you using the 901 box as you stated you intended to on the first page?!
Yep, the 901 is still turning the wheels...
The clutch really slips running the boost at 14lbs, I will need a heavier pressure plate
if i want to run the boost 12lbs or over.
I hope to get into a stronger box next Spring.
I wouldn't even bother with trying to get a better PP frankly... I will go back and see if you have upgraded to a clutch master and slave hyd setup, but I had a KEP hi-perf PP in my 901 a long time ago and I couldn't keep a clutch cable in one piece for any real length of time. I think I broke 3 in one year.
And the disk diam is so small it isn't going to hold 320 ft-lbs (a guess on 187 cubes at about 1 atm of boost) and 380 HP very well... it takes a lot of spring force in that PP to make that stick and it is better to just upgrade to a better trans and a larger clutch. I know V8 guys use those transaxles up to 350 ft-lbs (supposedly tho' I have see them broken by that level) and the big KEP PP but many of those cars blow off the radials easily and don't slip the KEP clutch because of that... but put some slicks or sticky tires and get it to hook up and the clutch will slip.
Just focus on getting a better transaxle for your setup and save the money on a beefy PP and turn the boost back over the next few months until you can upgrade, no reason to waste money on a PP you won't want in a few months IMO.
The stock geared 930 would work well with your 930-ish setup. The limit isn't whether you want to go 120, 140 or 180 but what rpm you want to be turning at 75mph on the interstate - the high gear may be good for 160 mph at your max rpm but irrelevant to fwy cruising. If you think of gearing for 120 or 140 even you will be turning big rpm at fwy speed.
edit - "Kennedy stage 2 clutch and pressure plate with starter ring" - you already have this one?! Not much more you can do to keep the clutch from slipping.
The beauty of the turbo is i can dial it back as i did today to 10.5lbs. the clutch will hold and i probably am still transmitting over 300 hp.
"am still transmitting over 300 hp."
I was wondering what that vibration was that I felt in ST Boni
Chappy that thing sounds meaner than hell. I am SOOOooo Jealous!. Awsome ride dude!
Josh
Temps are decreasing around here and it will be time soon to put the HE's back on.
This will be a good time to drop the engine adjust the valves, retorque the headstuds and see if i can shore up the area it has been leaking oil.
I will inspect the clutch for glazing from it's slipping, and may opt for the stage 3 pressure plate for the time being. I hope to still drive my car until it snows, the Dot R tires are off and the all season ContiExtremeContacts on.
I had a chance to shoot some pictures of the car rolled out on the lawn last month and posted them here.
http://homepage.mac.com/davidchapman1/PhotoAlbum26.html
I talked to Kennedy today about my pressure plate and clutch, I am going to send it back to them for testing, they think they can make some adjustments to the pressure plate and make the change to a different clutch to make it hold without going to a Stage 3 setup.
I just finished looking at the entire post. I LOVE your 914. Great job . Your workmanship is excellent WOW. Maybe one day mine will be like yours.
Thanks, I still have a few minor things to workout still with the clutch and oil leaks.
Just yesterday i noticed that i had my seats in wrong and had to swap my driver and passenger seat.
It has been great getting to the end of this project and enjoying the car the past few months, i will miss driving it when the snow flies, were expecting some this Sunday.
SNOW! I hate effin snow I was hoping to take one more run down to the metro and meet up with everyone before the big sleep Lets hope spring comes early.
There is still hope it wont stick. But remember Halloween 92 when we got the major storm. Instant winter.
Wow!
I'm glad you have it running now. I've only been on here infrequently as I'm still in the process of moving. (only about a month before we get our house).
I finally got the car back together since i tore it apart last Fall. The engine builder
would not stand behind his work and fix the oil leaks this time around unless i paid him again, fat chance that was going to happen. I was going to hold out and wait for more car fund money and ship the engine out to California for Henry Schmidt to fix. Henry was going to give me a screaming deal to rebuild it again from the ground up but at this time i just cant afford to to that.
So i decided to fix it myself...... I pulled everything off with out pulling it apart. Hosed it down good with brake cleaner and when i was ready to re-torque everything back together i sprayed the engine down with Acetone. The Acetone rinsed anything oily left hidden out, and is thin enough to get into the slightest clearances. It also re-goo-afied the Curil T that was used as a sealant when it was built. I torqued everything and adjusted the valves.
I drove it yesterday for about a half an hour and Ollie and i just got back from a nice long drive and i can say my car is leak free atleast for now.
The engine leaked all the time before even idling, so this is a huge victory for me.
I am going to drive the crap out of the car now and start to really really enjoy it.
Time to celebrate - cheers-
Oh ya, the car made me look like this on a freeway on ramp
You rock.
Paul I pulled the upper valve cover off this morning and retorqued the one Headstud that i told you about that i had a hard time getting a clean torque on when i had the engine apart. Well that seemed to do the trick.
Three cheers for the DIY approach.
Hey Chap, since you have gotten so good at fix'n things you want to come over and help me fix this little "Issue"
Damn head shop
Paul i drove by last weekend when i took the dogs to Waconia for a swim, i didnt see your Scion only a pickup in the drive, the house showed no life so i didnt knock.
Whats the deal with the valve all boogered up like that. Last time i was over the make shift engine start sounded fine running in the garage.
I have a funeral to go to in Rochester this afternoon, if he still needs help Sunday i can
swing by and offer up my help.
Rick figures he will be going well into late Sunday.
I will see what i can swing on Sunday.
I knew you could do it!
When i reassembled the engine i dressed up the flywheel and pressure plate with a roloc disc and cleaned the clutch good with solvent. I have been running at .8 bar (12lbs.) and the clutch has held great it hasn't slipped once, as much as i would like to see the boost up to 1bar (14lbs.) last time i did that the clutched slipped and smoked a little, the extra 30hp pushes it over the holding limit, so 12lbs. it is until i beef the clutch up some. I have driven the car about 600 miles since it's been back together, the oil seepage from the upper through case bolts is still there but greatly diminished. After driving it around for a few days there isn't that much to wipe up. I may see a hanging drip but thats about all , sometimes i doesn't even make the floor.
The car is still very scary to me, it gets my heart racing like it used to when i downhill ski raced.
I've seen redline in 5th a few times it all happens so fast. Very exhilarating.
I got my G tech figured out now so i plan on doing a few pulls if i can find the highway clear of all traffic and can get it going from an on ramp or some service roads that never see much use. Safety is key here i do not want a ticket and hope to do this as stealthy as i can in a glowing screaming practically Florescent orange car.
Stay tuned more to come later.............
great Job!
Here are a few shots of the car someone took from last weekends German carfest.
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Man I wish I could have made that event! Chappy, Explain how you cured the Valdes oil leak. Did you have to pull the cylinders or just slide them out a little? Did you use sealing rings at the heads?
Rick the leaking is from the through case bolts, Mat Johnson said he used the proper head gaskets, why some of the head stud nuts loosened up and needed retorqueing is still a mystery. After getting the thing all cleaned up, it is obvious now that the leaks are from the upper through case bolts, the oil runs down the side of the case in the same spot on both sides, the oil that leaks from the bolts sits over the head stud so it has a tendency to run down the head stud, pool around the head stud nut, and leak down from there which gave the appearance it was leaking from the head which i now know it's not. In a few weeks if i get caught up with work, i am going to drop the engine again and butter up those nut bolt areas and see if i cant stop it up a bit. The only real cure is pulling it apart but i think i can do a pretty good job on it externally until that time comes.
Hey chap, I may have one-up'd you from the car show I found this page looking for some other stuff. take look down through the pictures (2nd car). And I wasn't even in the show The RS wanabee
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/midwest/175183-german-carfest-saturday-shakopee.html
Paul i saw those too, I posted the link in the Shakopee thread, they must of been following us around because we are in some of the shots....
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Look I made some bigger dive planes for the front. I have been playing around with boost settings, i still need to keep it around 12.5 to keep the clutch from slipping in 4th and 5th, but did experience it at 14.5 the other day when i was making adjustments. man that extra 40 or so HP makes a difference, me needs new Kevlar clutch i like the wallop that extra 2lbs makes.
Amber is waiting for a nice easy ride.... I could rip with Darla , the last time i tried with Amber she was trying to climb up on me which made for a scary couple of seconds.
I hope i can break her into it like i did with Darla.
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More Amber and Darla....
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Amber the new passinger
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So how is Amber's navigator skill coming along?
I'm almost done with Mark Donahue's "The Unfair Advantage", so now appreciate Chappy's Mark Donahue signature steering wheel. Just when you think you couldn't possibly appreciate this car any more, something new jumps out!
Plus this thread can always use a !
Chap, I have always liked that front end, the bigger dive planes look good. You could put an orange pinstripe to make them stand out a little more, not that you need to make a bigger statement.
Amber, looks very comfortable with the car at a standstill. Surely you have a video of Darla taking a ride that you can train the rookie with. ( sorry we don't have a dog driving smilie....yet)
and Dan there is a new book about Donohue that you should get. It is written by Michael Argetsinger. His Dad, Cam, was the architect & driving force of Watkins Glen. Michael's brother, Pete and I worked together quite a bit with Skip Barber
T.C.
Dan Amber lets me rip, she has taken a few blast off's with me in the past weeks .
She lays down on the seat and trusts all will be well.....
I am running 14lbs with it holding on some days and slipping on others depending on
how hot the engine is, it seems to hold better when i've been driving around for an hour...
The Mark Donahue steering wheel was one of those purchases i dont regret. There used to be a Porsche fiberglass fabricator and speed shop up here back in the 70's called Karousel. They originally made the 914 RSR air dam front spoiler with the oil cooler with brake ducts, they worked and had ties to Ricthie Ginther racing. I was purchasing a new air dam in the store and the sales guy told me i should buy the steering wheel i think i paid 125 for it. He said after Mark had died they had to stop making the wheels or his endorsed stuff because of the problems with the family and the estate. The wheel is too small for practical purposes as it really interferes with my gauge's but i have had it in a 914 ever since i bought it that day....
TC i will try and film a new video featuring Amber ripping with me...
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I just ordered a Kevlar clutch today from Renegade, yesterday the clutch slipped really bad, I guess this is worth a try. Breakin is suppose to be slow and easy so i will turn down the boost and drive it like a Gramma......
I have a kevlar disc with a stage II Kennedy PP. Sometimes it sound like I'm squeeling the tires but it's the clutch slipping only lasts a second then it hooks up.
BTW: It just stopped raining at 3:00 See ya Monday.
Watch i will finally get the clutch to hook up, and then blow the box or an axle.
Well the snow is still piled high outside but it looks like we are in for a string of warmer weather this week - so - I decided now or never, i disconnected everything, and drained the oil. The engine is ready to come out for the Spring cleaning, the new clutch install, and i am going to try and externally seal up the through case bolt oil leaks.
Hopefully in about a month or so the snow will be gone and i will be able to test it out.
There are a few items i would like to get for the engine like billet injector blocks, and a Brian Lesik adjustable WUR, a new set of headers from Marty MSDS but those are things i haven't saved for, so maybe not..........
More updates on the way as i dig into it....
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Well i had a little time this afternoon and got busy, now that it's out i can dig into it and clean everything up again. I think it's time for one of these.....
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Got it on the stand and stripped it down this far. I was shocked to find mouse droppings and some packing peanuts under the shroud, how the hell could one of found a way into there. Looked around other spots on the car where they like to hide but found nothing.
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This will be ready for lunch on the 10th no?
working on it........
I have just about everything all cleaned up, adjusted and sealed. New Kevlar clutch, and with a little work cleaning up some wiring, the engine is ready to go back in the car. I hope to have it on the road this week......
I'm excited for ya! Just don't go and hurt the girl now. She'll get even with your wallet!
Hope that Kevlar clutch solves the slipping issue you had. Nice to here it is almost ready for the road.
Chap, You safe & sound after the Twisters this Weekend?
Twister missed us by a few miles, we had a huge golf ball sized hail storm last week that missed us by a few miles also, We have been lucky so far, with all the snow and rain we've had, the wetlands behind the house is as full as i have ever seen it .
I think i am going to put the engine back in the car today......time to get busy......
Engine is back in the car and everything on top plugged in and connected, wont be long now, may be a few hours at most and i can drive it again.........
I'll be back down working again next week. Gitterdunn!
I have had a few other side jobs that is slowing me down. Last week i replaced 4 struts on a buddies Audi Quatro Avant Wagon, and tomorrow i am doing a coil over from hydraulic conversion on a Mercedes. I've done the Mercedes job before a few years ago so i am kinda familiar with the job. After that i need to figure out a no start issue with my son Charlies Nissan Sentra. and somehow get my car together in between all of that and still work at my real job.......
Rick, i hope i can get it done for you to come and help me break in that clutch. I am having surgery on my left leg on June 1st, i may need you to drive.
I will drive my car tomorrow , I am almost done about an hour of fiddling about and i will fire it up. I am turning the boost down to around 8 bar and will try my best to stay out of it until i get the Kevlar clutch bedded in, in about 500 miles of easy stop and go driving.
I've drained the Brad Penn oil out and refilled it with Valvoline R1 racing oil 40wt, it was on sale for 2.99 a quart., so i picked up a few cases of 40wt, 50wt and 20/50.
The Brad Penn leaked so bad, i am hoping with my re-sealing everything and switching to a Dino oil, the oil will stay in the engine, i was tired of painting the floor green, gets expensive.....
I will give you an update....
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Damn oil leaks! Hope you got it this time around!
Yeah I was gonna say ... 8 bar is like 116 psi.
I have to laugh , i am turning it down from 1.5 bar to .8 to .7 bar. around 12lbs to 10 lbs. my wastegate spring is set to .7.
The car is ready to roll but it's raining!
Seems there is a little oil leaking from what i believe is the flywheel seal, no leaking from the other areas as before but the engines not been under load yet.
I hope the Flywheel seal will seal it self, sitting sometimes make things leak but can swell after driving it for awhile. if not, at least i wont have to remove the engine to replace it, only the tranny.
Hey Chappy
Sunny out this morning, hope you can get it out before it changes and starts raining again here. Not sure if I should work on the car or build an ark.
Hope your surgery goes well.
Irv
Just got back from driving the car around for 5 miles re-adjusted the clutch and the oil seems to be staying in the engine, the oil i was seeing may of been old stuff running when the engine heated up because all is dry now.... I'm going for another drive now, see ya!
I put 20 miles on it during my last drive, so far the engine is still dry, not a drip in sight....
I cant wait till i can put the hammer down to see if the clutch will hold..
If it's still dry in the morning I think you gotter.
No luck at all, big leak happened at the flywheel seal yesterday while out for a drive.
I ask myself WHY didn't i check it when the engine was out. I started to pull the tranny this morning and will do the repair with the engine in the car, I hope my new clutch didn't get soaked with oil, but i think it probably did, the bell housing is a mess, what a waste.
Sorry to hear man!
I've never been able to seal up my T4 engine as now matter what I do, I seem to find a puddle after it has been sitting for a long while.
My 993 engine is starting to leak as well. I guess now is the time to start the leak chasing parade...
Damn I was hoping you had got it, sorry you have to do this.
Irv
I just got done getting the car back together tonight, i dont think i can handle anymore setbacks. I have had 3 surgeries 2 in the past two weeks and i am still crawling around under the car pulling on the stitches and having to devise ways of lifting things and putting force on stuff without straining myself. I must be crazy but i just have to get this car on the road for the summer.
I've replaced the flywheel seal twice because of my rushing to slap it back together. I was able to take care of a few things that needed addressing besides the oil leak, i replace a helicoil on one of my exhaust studs with an ezlok, there sort of like a timecert but removable and very heavy duty, no way it will ever pull out. I added two small electric fans to my transmission cooler and re-fabricated the ducting to make it easier to get to. I also made a new oil breather out of a stainless steel subzero water bottle, my other one was way to big, this one looks cooler than the big money ones and it was only 2.99 at Walgreens.
I'm having a beer now then i am going cleanup, change my surgical dressings, go to bed, and will test the car tomorrow.
Do not push to hard Chappy, been through many surgery's myself and they make you pay if you push it to far. Glad to here ir is back together. Hope you got it this time.
My stuff is nothing like what you've been through but it has been scary none the less.
I had melanoma cancer removed from my leg 4 weeks ago and they went back again to take more last week, then last Friday i had Mohs surgery done on my face, they remove a good portion of my left cheek i will have an Edward Sissorhands look to me when you see me next.
The good thing is they caught it soon enough, my wife made me an appointment to see a dermatologist last month, all the doctors i have seen have reminded me that my wife saved my life. I am very grateful that she did this for me, i owe her my life, and will forever be her slave.
I know i would of never done anything about it until it was to late..
I am on the mend now and cant wait to check out the car you got from TC
Great news! car is on the road, zero oil leaks, underside of engine is dry as a bone.
Now just need to put some miles on the clutch to see if it can hold a blast off.
Driving around has been great! no more hosing the engine down with brake cleaner after a drive.
It's going to be hard driving it around easy for the next 500 or so miles to break in the Kevlar clutch, i only slightly touched boost last night and the clutch slipped immediately i got the peddle in as fast as i could and was off the gas. I will report more as i log some more miles....
Man i love driving my car, i have about 400 miles of stop and go driving on the kevlar clutch now, i WOT boost in 2nd through 3rd last night and the clutch held tight this was at 11 lbs of boost so i turned it up to 13 and it still held fine on my next run i am going to turn it up to 14.5 now and see how it goes. I will stay out of boost in 4th and 5th for a few more hundred miles just to be safe on the clutch, but things are looking promising so far.
That's great Chappy.
Pulling for it to hold .
Irv
Man, at our altitude and air density 14.5 lbs of boost is a ton! Good to here the clutch is holding.
Nothing quite like free water injection, car feels like a rocket sled...
Damn am i enjoying my car, just got back from an evening drive, perfect weather, top off, great tunes, and the car just totally rips, clutch grabbed all the gears i threw it through. If i didnt have a few frosty beverages after i got back home i would jump back in it and take it out for some more fun......
I cant wait till tomorrow.......
All is well with the clutch grabbing through 4th, i am reluctant to drop it into 5th until it looks wide open and safe on the highway entrance ramp, i also wish not to lose my license, all i need is about 1/4 mile and i should see top end and slow back down.
I turned the boost up today on the MBC but i have not yet seen where it it's at, bad weather was moving in, earlier today i was hitting 12.5 lbs with the clutch holding, i am shooting for around 14.5 to 15 lbs.
The car makes my short hairs stand up,very exciting......
I feel your joy! Nothing quite like the boost kicking in...
Have fun!!! You're having fun... have more fun! Like you need me to tell you that. Ridiculous.
Out of curiosity, what do you estimate your peak HP to be with 13 lbs. of boost?
Man I am JEALOUS, I admit it freely...
Should be close to around 400hp at 14.5
I feel like a kid who just got his license, i drive around come back to the house, sit in the driveway for a few minutes in the car, back out again and drive around some more.
Driving my car is more fun than girls!
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If you don't mind me asking, out of curiosity, what would you ballpark figure the cost of taking a stock 3.0 and converting it to the same turbo setup you have. This would include a total rebuild, new P&C, all fuel injection system upgrades, clutch, etc.?
Have I told you I am soooo jealous?
Mine sits on jack stands awaiting its stock 3.0....
I think it's time for a new video...
Also, I think we're ALL jealous, it's not just you moparrob!
Cant be done cheaply, you can save a lot by using used parts in good condition, and fabricating yourself. Difficult for me to estimate the cost to many variables.
The advantage of using 3.0 engine as i did, I had it and it had to come apart, it makes more power and hp than a 3.3, bigger valves and ports, SC cams and crank, and because of the longer stroke rods, spins quicker and freer than a 3.3 engine.
Downside is all of the things you have to add to it, and machine to make it work.
IMO You would be better off looking for a good used 3.3 engine.
This is what i had to do:
3.3 pistons and cylinders/rings from a 91 C2
machine to offset 3.0 rod bushing for stroke.
new bearings
new valves/guides
high performance springs and retainers
twin plug heads
930 oil pump
Supertec head studs
flywheel starter ring
Twinplug distributor
KEP stage 2 pressure plate and throwout bearing
Renegade Kevlar clutch disc
Bosh 044 fuel pump
MSD BTM ignition
7th injector
MSD RPM switch and pressure switch for 7th injector
Complete Intake fuel head and injectors for an 86 Euro 930 Turbo 3.3
fuel accumulator and filter
K27 Turbo
scavenge pump
Tial wastegate
Tial BOV, although the 930's BOV would work if intake is fabricated to do so
Intercooler
fabrication of exhaust and intake pipes with assorted silicone pipe connectors.
LSD transmission
And big brakes to stop the thing......
You can use your stock 3.0 by adding the 7th injector adding the MSD BTM electronic
ignition and running no more than 8 to 9 lbs of boost short duration, or 6.
Then all you would need are the Wastegate, Bov, intercooler, Turbo and fabrication
for it all to work, I originally started out on this endeavor using parts from and old BAE turbo kit. This can be done for under 4,000. All worked very well until the oil pump seized which had nothing to do with the engine being turbocharged.
I think if you add up the $'s yourself you can see why a 930 3.3 engine or turbocharging the stock 3.0 without adding all of the stuff i did would be the way to go. At 8to1 compression running 8lbs of boost the engine will make up to 350hp.
GOPRO HD camera not in the budget right now, i will try my hat cam trick again soon.
Three things:
1) You can't turbo a 914
2) it looked better in black and red two tone
Oh wait that's only two.
Three things:
1) You can't turbo a 914
2) it looked better in black and red two tone
Oh wait that's only two.
Qarl
If not who.............
Miles............
Chappy
That's great, glad the clutch solved the slipping issue. Can't wait till the turbo is in our car. Still waiting for parts. Seems to be recurring theme with my 914's, ttrach destruction and the new one make us wait, Given a choice of the two I will take the waiting.
Keep driving it and enjoying it, season end is approaching fast.
Heres, one for Get Off My Lawn....
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Have to be very careful and pick my spots.
Boost ran up just a hair past 15 today, adjusting it back now, hopefully a 1/2 lb, that's where i will leave it.
Yeppers, that's the one I member, red n black.
BAE's rule ;-)
My car kinda scares me....sure got my heart pumping tonight. I wanted to check the boost pressure but had my hands full and didn't dare take my eyes off the road. I am sure in time i will get used to it but right now i am uncomfortable, I sure would hate to crash into something accelerating like this.
I bet your right......
I can't wait to see this in person some time!
It's just a matter of time before something breaks. Axle, CV, or transmission. The other day the air was heavy and cool i had the engine heated up. I found a nice long highway entrance ramp clear so i rolled into boost in 2nd gear - when i threw it into 3rd, the front end lifted enough to get very light, i held on and shifted it into 4th and let up as i was shifting into 5th when i reached the end of the ramp onto the Highway.
I was surprised the tires didn't spin when i hit 3rd i was close to a wheelie, i've never had the car lunge up that high before, it always lunges but not like that, the ramp was pretty flat not uphill.
So i am worried i will be stranded somewhere, something will break i am surprised it hasn't, i know i will have beef up the axles, CV's and transmission.
The blowoff valve releasing the pressure in between gears and the turbo all spooled up hitting it hard when the throttle opens again is really something i wish all of you could experience.
Maybe a cutdown G50 is in your future? They are supposed to handle 330HP.
Supposedly, anyway.
I have my Carrera up to 262 at the flywheel, or at least that is what the charts and gauges said.
It handles my 3.2 fine. I want a 914 that lifts the front end in 3rd!
John
maybe you should lengthen the throttle cable and remove wot til you're comfortable or turn the boost down a bit more. sounds like it's a handful.
k
...turn the boost down?!!? wtf?
I will have to throw some $'s into it and and make it right. I knew going in that the transmission and drive train was going to need some upgrading but it has to wait until i am done doing the remodeling work on the house.
Was a beautiful day at the car and coffee at the Automotorplex on Saturday. Ollie and i had a great time. Huge turnout of cars and people the most i've ever seen there. The most often comment on my car was Bad ASS!
http://automotorplex.com/
chappy... that's because your car is Bad ASS!
Wow Von K
loved your creation that returned to its GT specs. History
Sorry to bring this thread up again but wanted to ask.
How is the car after some time and tuning?
What is the HP you have and do you find it overwhelms the chassis?
The car chassis handles it fine super tight even with the sticky Toyo RA1's, car does lunge and torque like a muscle car when it hits boost but stays solid.
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Are you able to get it out yet? Still too much slop here.
I could of last weekend but haven't yet, got to fire it up and get that gas out of it, some street sweepers have been out but there are so many huge potholes out there, when I do get it out im going to take it mellow, may drop engine clean everything up underneath and install the rsr oil seal o-rings on the rocker shafts to eliminate the leaks sometime this Summer.
Rick I've played golf the past 2 weekends, winter is officially over down here in the twin cities. Expecting the ice off the lakes by the weekend.
Irv we need to get together can't wait to see your turbo
Minnesota Spring Jamboree?
I should have added that the car in this thread certainly qualifies for the parachute. Way cool.
First drive of the year, need to run out the old gas and filler up with some fresh. Felt good to get it out on the road again...
Who else here would appreciate a new video of this beast? Knudge...
Subscribed way late. Now it is catch up time
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