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Posted by: redshift Dec 23 2003, 10:19 PM

...from the GD pedal cluster? PM me..

I lost the accel cable down the f'n tunnel.. next move is sawzall vs tunnel... I'm beyond caring if it's fixed right, I just need it to drive.

What is removed? I can't even see it all. What kind of idiot invented this rubick's cube POS?


M

Posted by: Gint Dec 23 2003, 10:53 PM

PM'd ya with a number. You're probably already on the phone with someone. Remove the cable from the fork at the trans (self-explanatory). Push the cable forward in the sleeve to give some slack. At the pedal arm, the cable end has a spring clip that wraps partially around the cable. It's connected to the pin that goes through the end of the cable fork. Pop that spring clip loose, and then you can pull the pin from the fork. You're done.

Posted by: redshift Dec 23 2003, 10:57 PM

Nope, but that is exactly wht I needed to hear, thanks!

This is going to be easy...




M

Posted by: Gint Dec 23 2003, 11:04 PM

It's a PITA to get your hands in there because of the clearance (or lack thereof), but it's do-able. A small screw driver can help you get the clip up off the cable.

Posted by: Rob Ways Dec 23 2003, 11:10 PM

Spray some brake fluid cleaner in the tunnel from the front before you re-feed it. If there's rust or gunk in there, you'll take care of it.

Posted by: campbellcj Dec 23 2003, 11:48 PM

Just think how much fun it is to do with a full cage in the car. You basically have to roll yourself up into a little ball and slide under the dash. Removing the passenger seat helps quite a bit.

Hey Miles -- if you thought popping the clevis off was a beotch...just wait till you get to put it back on.

Posted by: Bleyseng Dec 23 2003, 11:52 PM

Use a small mirror to look into the tunnel to see WTF is going on in there. Make sure its clean of shit like mouse nests etc....

Geoff

Posted by: SirAndy Dec 24 2003, 12:38 AM

i've got a phone number. i even just got someone elses phone number.
but i can't help'ya ...

Andy

Posted by: Gint Dec 24 2003, 12:40 AM

I fat finger'd the user fields when I was PMing my number to Miles. I sent it to Andy instead.

Time to hit the rack.

Posted by: redshift Dec 24 2003, 03:10 AM

I hate you!

Welp, success on removal, and the roll pin was WAY TOO BIG I just got back from a machine shop that a friend owns, uhh.. took near 5 tons to force it.. doods...

I have pedal cluster..

So, in the morni.. in a couple hours, when the sun com... when it stops raining.. I am going to install this freeking thing.

I am also considering writing a technical article on removal.. that includes all the good stuff.

Nah...

Thanks so much guys, this got the best of me..

Oh yeah, longs are nothing, you should look under your pedals.

Miles

Posted by: Gint Dec 24 2003, 08:12 AM

Wow, that took long enough.

BTDT, you are correct. If you suspect your 914 is rusty, this is one of THE places to look.

Posted by: ArtechnikA Dec 24 2003, 08:24 AM

if it took 5 T to remove, it sounds like it was just about right. that sucker must be TIGHT and then is rusts in place besides. mine (probably the factory '71 original) came out with a drift and blows from my 2,5-lb bronze hammer on a pretty darned solid backstop. it's triple-roll pin. it has to fit tight because if there is any play, the wear will mean you're right back there doing it again.

there have been persistent runours that the roll pins supplied with the bronze bushing kits are inadequate. my personal opinion is that there was, indeed, a batch of substandard stuff but that was a while ago and the suppliers are getting the good stuff now. )i used the supplied pin and we'll just see how well it holds up...)

mine was MUCH harder to get re-installed than pressed out, BTW. took all damned day AND my 20-T press ...

for completeness, the factory pin part number is 900.309.002.00 - in case you think they have different suppliers than the bushing kit makers ...

Posted by: rhodyguy Dec 24 2003, 08:36 AM

i had a hard time keeping the clip on. i used a small plastic tie to cinch it up. no worries after that.

kevin