i need to get the center gear of the crack so i can replace the keyway and dual belt pulley. thanks jim
pic
http://www.pbase.com/jimkelly/image/85954997/original
i found this
http://www.forparts.com/ICsubarutimingbelt9.01.htm
do i remove the tensioner first??
or
do i remove the tension pully first ??
http://www.scribd.com/doc/6853/periodic-maintenance
ok
page 11 here says to remove bottom gear first ??
jim
ok belt is off - i removed tensioner - bingo bango - belt off.
now for the hard part - how to get crank gear off - very little room behind it and engine case : (( and it is wedged on by destroyed and malformed keyway - see last pic.
and it appears to me that the shop that did my timing belt replacement may have messed up my timing - see wthite dots on pass side match up but drivers side is at least one tooth off.
Attached image(s)
Hi
Yup those puppies get stuck all the time (not just Subys). Some manufactures are nice anough to have threded holes, in the front face of the pully so we can use a small puller, as I said some not all assholes...
Varnesh loctite forms after years of heatcycles, between the gear and crank/key. Try taking a propane torch and heat the gear, pry with a screwdriver in the rear ( ), a little bit at a time in different positions around the gear, it will "pop" when it wants too, you will want to replace that crank seal, and unfortunately, sometimes the gears rear ring breaks. Sometimes they are just a little stuck, sometime they are damb near welded. Patience.
Good luck with it
Later
EUWWWWWWWW!
i am pretty sure the key keeps the pulley and the gear orientated.
i would love to grind out the pulley part of the key and cut the new one in half and just use it to hold the pulley orientated - but how can i grind out the small piece of keyway i want removed ??
the old mangled key destroyed the pulley's inner diameter - like it did the first time - but this time the key was totally unuable.
jim
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i read to tap the holes that are already in the gear - maybe i will do that?
thanks
jim
i agree : )
i am trying to do this without removing the radiator/hoses and trans cooling hoses/etc.
jim
best of luck,
this part is ofter destroyed by being removed without the correct tool.
I haven't done it, but i've seen alot of posts on the subaru forum with people bummed by wrecking it.
maybe check out NASIOC forums?
nasioc forum advice
There are two holes in the face of the sprocket. Tap those holes for 8x1.25mm and then use a puller to pull the sprocket off. Works every time By the way, sometimes those holes are prethreaded from the factory and sometimes they're not.
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Ooopps
I missed the part of the mangled key. The only way I see to do it, tap the holes, use a small stering wheel puller or a puller that is small anough. You will have to use a hotter torch set up, and heat the key cherry red a slowly pull the gear, keeping the key red. Grinding the bent part of the key will speed things up.
I have had to cut the gear off a couple of times, this is a real shitty job.
Later
thanks guys !!
gotta get me a tap today and small puller.
jim
Hit up Autozone to loan both those tools (puller and threader) since you're only gonna use them once.
that sounds good : )
my god - 2 hrs of 5/8 wrench in pipe wrenching - and that bitch is finally off.
tapped sprocket for 7x1.00
jim
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Good show Jim! You know, working on the 914's probably brought or taught a new level of patience.......
For me , it's usually THE last bolt that gives me problems.....
Hi Jim
Glad it got it off
Now if I see it correctly...your crank is mangled....replacing the key and pulley, would be a 50/50 chance it would work for any length of time. Bet you this is why the timing marks didn't line up...
Been there, done that.
Are you taking the motor apart anyways?
+Karma
Later
the crank looks ok - the timing sprocket was cracked on backside and the mangled keyway bored out the alt pulley - i replaced keyway, alt pulley and crank sproket - and all seems fine - for now : ) thanks jim
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