Printable Version of Topic

Click here to view this topic in its original format

914World.com _ 914World Garage _ When clutch cable conduits go bad......

Posted by: 914rrr Sep 30 2007, 04:17 AM

Pics attached of the clutch cable tube / conduit that 'let go' in my 73 2.0.

Note that I have already pulled the tube back into it's proper position. Before that, the end of the tube had pulled through the firewall (aprox. 1") and only the very end of it was visible.

For reference, the first pic is of a 914 center tunnel as seen from underneath:

Attached Image

Posted by: 914rrr Sep 30 2007, 04:20 AM

First up, rear firewall. The torn firewall metal pulled in about 1/2".

Attached Image

When the tube broke free in the tunnel, the only thing that stopped the tube from going completely through the firewall was the shoulder on the clutch cable.


Posted by: 914rrr Sep 30 2007, 04:30 AM

Next up, the front mount as viewed from the shifter hole.

Attached Image

Posted by: 914rrr Sep 30 2007, 04:33 AM

Next, the front mount tear. I could only get a shot of the top side of the mount. It's torn underneath as well.

Note that I 'almost' drilled through the accelerator conduit / tube. Take care when cutting / drilling.

Attached Image

Posted by: 914rrr Sep 30 2007, 04:35 AM

Shown with ruler for reference.

Attached Image


Posted by: 914rrr Sep 30 2007, 04:40 AM

Lastly, the middle bracket tear. Man, that is one lame / flimsy bracket!

Attached Image


Posted by: 914rrr Sep 30 2007, 04:43 AM

Again, shown with ruler for reference:

Attached Image




Posted by: Inspector Sep 30 2007, 08:52 AM

I thinking that there could be a preventive bracket made to prevent that. A steel or ? plate with a tube that can be cold welded into place?

Posted by: 914rrr Sep 30 2007, 08:58 PM

QUOTE(Inspector @ Sep 30 2007, 10:52 AM) *

I thinking that there could be a preventive bracket made to prevent that. A steel or ? plate with a tube that can be cold welded into place?


Yep, I'm planning on fabricating metal to beef up all 3 areas. Nel bought me a new MIG biggrin.gif welder.gif and I'm going to get a chance to try it out (after some off-car practice, of course). I'm installing new SS fuel lines, shifter bushings, motor mounts, boots, seat track mounts, etc. etc. 'while I'm at it'.

BTW, here's what was left of the shifter bushings in the firewall and coupler...

Attached Image

Posted by: 914rrr Oct 18 2007, 08:16 PM

Pic of firewall after wire brushing. Note how the metal crack in the firewall spread to the fuel line opening and how rust holes opened up in the firewall.
Attached Image


Posted by: 914rrr Oct 18 2007, 08:21 PM

Front mount after welding. Top side shown.
Attached Image

Posted by: McMark Oct 18 2007, 08:21 PM

1. Thanks for the great pictures! thumb3d.gif
2. Cutting holes in the center tunnel is not necessary, but will work. Some carefully placed holes with a drill will let you reweld things quickly.
3. The tube is brazed into place from the factory. You can't weld over the brass, so research the washer-trick for repairing the firewall.
4. The 'flimsy' center braket is not meant/designed to take any stress. The front and rear mounts are supposed to keep things in place. But once they let go, the little middle one doesn't stand a chance.
5. You can post more than one picture per post now. wink.gif

Posted by: 914rrr Oct 18 2007, 08:23 PM

Access for front mount, bottom bracket for reference. This is prior to welding, as the welded picture didn't turn out.
Attached Image


Posted by: 914rrr Oct 18 2007, 08:28 PM

After welding and grinding, and welding and grinding and welding and grinding.... and priming and painting with rattle cans, this is how it turned out. I was pretty happy with it, especially since this is my first time using a MIG welder. I installed new SS fuel lines (thanks, Chris!) new fuel line grommets and a new clutch cable.
Attached Image

One thing I noticed is that the front tube mount, even after being welded on the top and bottom, still moves / flexes a little (about a .5 mm). There is probably a bunch of stress created by the cable moving inside / against the tube. No wonder they break inside the tunnel.

I found out that 3/8" flexible copper tubing fits almost perfectly into the clutch cable tube on either end. I cut off a piece of the 3/8" copper tubing about 4" long and inserted in each end to keep from burning through with the MIG wire. I'm really glad I did, as there were scorch marks on the copper tubing after I welded the firewall end of the tube.

Posted by: orange914 Oct 18 2007, 08:43 PM

good to see on the last picture you got the steel fuel lines in! i don't know how there are any plastic line teeners still around unburnt

Posted by: McMark Oct 18 2007, 10:06 PM

Good call on the copper tubing! beerchug.gif

Posted by: 914rrr Oct 18 2007, 10:12 PM

QUOTE(McMark @ Oct 18 2007, 10:21 PM) *

1. Thanks for the great pictures! thumb3d.gif
2. Cutting holes in the center tunnel is not necessary, but will work. Some carefully placed holes with a drill will let you reweld things quickly.


1. You're welcome!!
2. I probably could have fixed it without cutting holes, but I was curious as to what really happens when the tube lets loose. I also wanted to photograph the repair for others to reference and perhaps enable them to do the repair without cutting holes. I wanted to 'give back' to the forum it for all the help members have given me over the years.

One side benefit of the forward hole is it makes it super easy to install new clutch and accelerator cables and prevents crossing them up.



Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Oct 19 2007, 12:27 AM

QUOTE(orange914 @ Oct 18 2007, 07:43 PM) *

good to see on the last picture you got the steel fuel lines in! i don't know how there are any plastic line teeners still around unburnt


"How"? Because the Teclamit lines only break from abuse. The ONLY lines I've seen break in 34 years of working on 914s (and there's always one or 2 in my shop) were the 2 I burned through with an acetylene torch. true, they "can" fail outside the body where they go to the side, but that's just not a common problem, IME. The Cap'n

Posted by: jimkelly Jun 15 2008, 01:48 PM

well - when i push my clutch peddle - my shifter moves.

i also - always wondered why someone previously cut into my tunnel.

it all makes sense now : )

i need to reweld front clutch tube bracket.


Attached image(s)
Attached Image

Posted by: jimkelly Jun 15 2008, 03:39 PM

some people fix everything with a BFH

me - i use a drill : )




Attached image(s)
Attached Image

Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)